Mobil one - What's the deal?!
TomLoser1
I've been running dino in my Harleys for over 10 years, changing it every
2000 miles. Usually Kendall 20-50 or HD 20-50.
I'm considering Mobil one synth, as it's reasonably priced, and I've
heard good things about it. Then...
I see this Mobile one V-Twin stuff for 8 bucks a quart. Mobil's website
says to not use the regular 15-50 for auto's in motorcycles. Their
reasons in the FAQ's are vague at best, siting additive differences, etc.
Then... I see their 15-50 is "New" and to definately not use it in your
bike, but to go with the unacceptable $8.00 a quart v-twin stuff.
I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
read them all.
Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
Ride safe
-Tom
Gyp
<nos...@spam.net> writes
>Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
Not wishing to perpetuate an oil thread, but...
The demands that a gearbox places on an oil are significantly different
to the demands placed on an oil by an engine. If you put a normal engine
oil in a gearbox the gearbox will rip the oil to shreds in a few miles.
Car engines are like big twin engines - separate engine & gearbox. If
you look at the majority (if not all) Japanese motorcycle engines they
are of unit construction (like the Sportster) - the engine and gearbox
share a common oil system.
Standard Mobil 1 is great in a car but would not work in a unit
construction motorcycle block.
So, if you run a big twin you should be OK with straight Mobil 1 in your
engine as you will be running a different lube in your gearbox.
If you are running a Sportster, or a Ducati, or Honda XLV or Suzi
V-strom or anything else with a unit construction then you need to run
the new oil that can cope with both engines and gearboxes.
Thanks for reminding me why I just bought HD 20-50 rather than synth for
my Sportster oil change :-)
--
Gyp BOTAFOT#99, BotToS#4, UKRMT5BB
'89 R80RT - The smooth one - for motorcycling
'97 883 Sportster - The Tinseltown Express - for Autoglym
'02 Ultraglide - the turbo one - for steaming along
Take out the chemical loo to reply
Roger Elmore
>I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
>it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
>I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
>read them all.
>
>Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
Do the Google search again for rec.motorcycles.harley only, with:
Using Car motor oil in a Harley????
as the title. You'll be down to only 190 articles. All in the same
thread.
--
Roger
Whatzit TOMKAT BS#150 SENS NEWT#1
Waiting on a new FLHT...
www.utm.edu/~relmore/Whatzit
Curly Larry and
>I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
>it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
>I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
>read them all.
I use Mobile 1 for cars and it works fine. Only been using it for
about 10k though, so there might be hidden gremlins down the road, but
I doubt it.
A related article from Donnie Peterson.
http://www.hdcycles.com/motvsaut.htm
--
Curly LaJolla BS#107
1993 FLHS Bark-O-Glide
Get your own r.m.h. jukebox CD at:
http://eddiekieger.com/cgi-bin/ek3auction.cgi?all
Lose Larry and Moe to email
Terry Coombs
"Gyp" <G...@ELSANgyponline.com> wrote in message
news:43L59rCr...@funduro.freeserve.co.uk...
> In message <Xns9230B8CF9EF...@65.32.1.7>, TomLoser1
> <nos...@spam.net> writes
>
> >Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
>
> Not wishing to perpetuate an oil thread, but...
>
> The demands that a gearbox places on an oil are significantly different
> to the demands placed on an oil by an engine. If you put a normal engine
> oil in a gearbox the gearbox will rip the oil to shreds in a few miles.
>
> Car engines are like big twin engines - separate engine & gearbox. If
> you look at the majority (if not all) Japanese motorcycle engines they
> are of unit construction (like the Sportster) - the engine and gearbox
> share a common oil system.
>
> Standard Mobil 1 is great in a car but would not work in a unit
> construction motorcycle block.
>
> So, if you run a big twin you should be OK with straight Mobil 1 in your
> engine as you will be running a different lube in your gearbox.
>
> If you are running a Sportster, or a Ducati, or Honda XLV or Suzi
> V-strom or anything else with a unit construction then you need to run
> the new oil that can cope with both engines and gearboxes.
>
> Thanks for reminding me why I just bought HD 20-50 rather than synth for
> my Sportster oil change :-)
> --
Better check again , dude . Last time I looked the trans/primary and
engine oil systems on my Sportster were separate . I am currently running
Superflo 20w50 full synth racing oil in my engine and H-D Sportrans in the
transmission .
And where in his post did Tomloser mention gearboxes ?
--
Snag_one , the motorcycle maniac
SENS BS132 DOF52
TOMKAT NEWT15
88 XL 1200 "Beast"
74 CB750 rat
39 WL project bike
RMH FAQ's www.bamph.com/rmh
Ken
Talk to a friend of a friend this weekend about Mobil 1. He said he
met a guy that helped develop synthetics at Mobil. Mobil 1 was a good
product back then but when Exxon bought them out, they "dummy down"
the formula and are making a much more inferior product now.
One of the tests they do on synthetics is called a 'four ball test',
where they stack ball bearings together under pressure with each
lubricant and check for wear after a period of time. Mobil 1 used to
be #2, but after Exxon watered down the formula, it fell to #6.
IMHO, I think Amsoil is the best. They have a 20W-50 V-Twin oil also
for $5 or $6 a quart.
Ken
'02 FLHRI - Born 12/14/01
May God Bless America and our Troops!
Willy
I'm using it in my bike but I kinda started to wonder after I bought
it and notiiced the Mobile one V-Twin stuff advertised in a bike
magazine. My wondering kind of got the best of me and I noticed
a disclamer in the add that said call "1-800-ASK-MOBIL" if you have
any questions. (I could be wrong on the exact phone number) But
anyways I call them and it goes like this:
THEM: Hello, Mobil One
ME: Whats the difference between your Mobil 1 15-50 and the
Mobile one V-Twin stuff?
THEM: Huh?
ME: I said whats the difference between your Mobil 1 15-50 and
the mobile one V-Twin stuff?
THEM: Uhh well its got some special ingredients that make it better
for hot running air cooled engines.
ME: And what special inggerients are those?
Them: Huh?
ME: What special ingredients does it have that the regular
Mobil One doesnt have?
THEM: Uh, Oh, Uh (probally reading from some paper)
it has phosporous and (some other shit dont remember what
else he said)
ME: So your telling me that the Regular Mobil One would be
no good top run in my HD engine?
THEM: Oh No, I didnt say that, The regular Mobil One will work fine,
I just said the Mobil One V Twin stuff is even better for it than the
regular stuff!
ME: (Dazed and confused by now) Ok, whatever, goodbye! CLICK
And the Moral of the Story is I'm still running regular Mobil One in
my bike and I see no reason why you need to run 4WD oil in you
4WD, Harley Oil in your Harley, Ford Oil in your Ford or Honda
Oil in your Honda or whatever..........................
Willy
TomLoser1
4ax.com:
Interesting post. I may call them and try that too. I agree that
more than likely, HD oil is no better than Kendall, which is no better
than "Genuine Toyota motor oil" for my Tacoma.
I figure it couldn't hurt to ask tho. Many, if not most people shudder
when I tell them I put Kendal 20-50 in my bikes. They think I'm really
stupid when I tell them I've been doing it over 10 years.
60K on the sloptail, and almost 40k on the RK.
I've never used syns, but if it'll offer more protection for my bikes,
I can handle paying a couple bucks more.
Now paying more for dino oil cuz it say's HD on it... That's not
gonna happen!
-Tom
StephG
and out came news:3d0e6e72...@news.dsl.net:
> On Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:08:50 GMT, TomLoser1 <nos...@spam.net> wrote:
>
>>I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>>15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
>>it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
>>I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
>>read them all.
>
> I use Mobile 1 for cars and it works fine. Only been using it for
> about 10k though, so there might be hidden gremlins down the road, but
> I doubt it.
>
> A related article from Donnie Peterson.
>
> http://www.hdcycles.com/motvsaut.htm
I'm starting to wonder about the "new" reformulated Mobil 1 15w-50. If it has
friction modifyers in it as some have said, is that really a bad thing in a
Harley where the primary and clutch are separate from the engine oil?
But what if they lowered the zinc and phosphorus content in the oil. They
used to have among the highest in their auto oil, the V-Twin oil being only
marginally different. Have they reduced the amount of acid neutralizing
compounds? Again, the 15w-50 used the be very high in those compounds. Kind
of important to those of us who ride a lot of short distances in a damp
climate.
It seems now we have to wait yet again for someone to put it to an analyzer
to find out whether anything important to Harley engines was lost in the
reformulation.
--
~---(_) Steph Greenberg AH108 BS30 YPF8
(>/ "I'm starting to like the cut of this man's gibberish"
)/
(_) www.casadiablos.com
Lee Petersen
>
> Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
> 15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there?
Yes.
> How often are you changing
> it out?
Every 2,500 miles or so.
> Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
Motorcycle Consumer News did a good lab study and report on
Mobil-1 and several other oils; if you subscribe you can get
back issues, or you may be able to read it on their web site:
Lee Petersen
C:\My Documents\Brazos Energy\sigfilenews.txt
Tom
TomLoser1 wrote:
> Mobil's website says to not use the regular 15-50 for auto's in
> motorcycles. Their reasons in the FAQ's are vague at best, siting additive
> differences, etc.
> Then... I see their 15-50 is "New" and to definately not use it in your
> bike, but to go with the unacceptable $8.00 a quart v-twin stuff.
What the hell do you think they're gonna say, they've got a shit load of
people running regular automotive 15-50 in bikes at $3.50/qt, and they're
trying to sell bike oil at twice that price(actually seen it at $6-something
at Walmart).
The bike stuff has been out for a couple years and not selling gang-busters
so now they tell us not to use the car stuff..............but to use the bike
stuff.
Hmmmm????
I will agree that it may not be a good idea to use in a common
crankcase/transmission motor, might cause clutch problems.
Tom
Carl
TomLoser1 <nos...@spam.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9230B8CF9EF...@65.32.1.7...
> Folks,
> I've been running dino in my Harleys for over 10 years, changing it every
> 2000 miles. Usually Kendall 20-50 or HD 20-50.
> I'm considering Mobil one synth, as it's reasonably priced, and I've
> heard good things about it. Then...
> I see this Mobile one V-Twin stuff for 8 bucks a quart. Mobil's website
> says to not use the regular 15-50 for auto's in motorcycles. Their
> reasons in the FAQ's are vague at best, siting additive differences, etc.
> Then... I see their 15-50 is "New" and to definately not use it in your
> bike, but to go with the unacceptable $8.00 a quart v-twin stuff.
snip
>
> Ride safe
> -Tom
Where did you read where it said to definitely not use it in your bike? All
I read on there web page was something like we know that people are using
Mobil 1 15-50 in there motorcycles and Tec's say run V-Twin. Ok not exact
but that was what it meant.
My opinion is it's saying not for bikes that share there engine oil with
there clutch lube system. I put the new oil in my bike around 300 miles ago.
I read the label and it doesn't say not to use in your bike. Until someone
can come up with a lab test that says not to use it in my engine looks like
I'll have to keep using it until she blows. I can't see the harm
myself,,,,JMHO
It says:
New Mobil 1 15 - 50 with SuperSyn Anti-Wear Technology - Race proven for
performance driving. With a unique combination of high - performance
fluids, plus the SuperSyn anti - wear system for protection under the most
extreme uses, Mobil 1 exceeds the toughest industry standards. Proven to
outperform all conventional oils, Mobil 1 - the worlds"s leading synthetic
motor oil - is used exclusively by Team Penske in all of their race cars.
Mobil 1 15W - 50 is excellent for supercharged and turbo charged engines,
muscle cars and amateur racers.
1- New formula with the SuperSyn anti-wear system helps extend engine life
by reducing wear and oil breakdown.
2- Race- proven components engineered specifically for high - performance
engines.
3- Outstanding protection for gasoline, diesel and turbocharged car engines.
4- Excellent cleanliness and wear protection in high-temperature/hot-running
engines, even at longer drain intervals.
5- Pours at -49 deg F ( - 45 deg C).
6- Protects at oil temperatures of 400 deg F (205 deg C).
7- Helps reduce oil consumption.
8- Compatible with conventional oils.
9- 15W - 50 is the highest viscosity Mobil 1 available.
Exceeds API Service SL,SJ/CF warranty requirements for gasoline and diesel
engines. Meets European ACEA A3/B3/B4-02 and Japanese valvetrain wear
requirements. Meets MB 229.1
Questions or comments? Call 1-800-ASK-MOBIL or visit us at www.MOBIL1.com
I left out handling cautions and don't pollute.
Comments,,,,,,,
--
Carl
99 FLSTF
Hawgman
THIS WAS TAKEN FROM THE SPORTSTER.ORG MESSAGE GROUP
Rad wrote:
"I use an oil analyzer at work. ($50,000) Thats how we know when to
change the lube in all our equipment gear boxes.(1 gear box might take
up to 30 gal. of syn. lube!) We stopped changing because of hours
used. We change it now only when the analizer tells us to. O.K. back
to motorcycles....I put in a sample of new clean 20-50w HD oil. The
analizer finds the baseline of the oil. Now I but in a sample of the
oil out of my bike. It then tells me how much the oil additives have
broken down and scans for foreign material. Carbon, metal, water, and
dirt. Runs this through the baseline data base and tells me if I have
a high,medium,or low, probabillty of bearing/machnical failure. Then
gives me a percentage of oil break down.
F.Y.I.
H-D 20w-50 after 3,100 miles showed a 30% reduction of baseline,
That's o.k. for dino oil) and nominal foreign material.
p.s - Then I switched to Mobil 1 V-Twin.
Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50 after 6,017 miles (I went cross country and
back) showed .011% or basicly no degregation at all, nominal foreign
material.(Changed the filter @ 3,000 miles then added a filter full
back in.) Ain't technology wonderful...at work we sample it, (the
syn.lube) suck it out, filter it, sample it again, then put it back
in. I can't do that with my bike but I still sample my drain oil, and
old trans. lube just because I can.
This is the first scientific evidence I have seen on this List showing
the superior properties of Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 synthetic oil over the
standard Harley 360 dino oil. The results are pretty impressive (30%
reduction at 3,100 miles for the Harley oil versus only 0.011% at
6,017 miles for the Mobil). In addition, these results were obtained
directly from a motorcycle using these oils and not in a laboratry.
It does appear that the Mobil oil is virtually indestructible. Add
to this the higher thermo properties, better flow rates at low temps,
the ability to remove heat better, and the reduced friction of Mobil
V-Twin oil and what oil would you want to put in your TC88 engine. I
think it is a no brainer.
Road Glidin' Don
>I'm considering Mobil one synth,
I've been using Mobil 1 15-50 (for cars) for 2 or 3 years in my bike
and it seems good. I don't use it primarily for the reduced engine
wear. What I mainly like it for is:
1. Easier starts in cold weather
2. Better high temperature stability
I think those 2 reasons (especially the second) are enough to make the
switch to synthetic a good idea.
--
Instead of weaving, I should have been reloading
(remove _NO_SPAM_ to reply)
98 FLTRI
83 Nighthawk
My eBay auctions: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=xidos_canada
Share yourself: http://xidos.ca/XManager/ReekyLogin.asp
Bike videos: http://xidos.ca/VideoView.asp
Home page: http://xidos.ca/scripts/Personal/
Alaska trip: http://xidos.ca/scripts/Personal/Alaska/
FLT Tech Info: http://xidos.ca/scripts/Personal/Bikes/tech.html
JPB
which does not include synthetic oils. Basically, some oils are too
slippery for the way an H-D is designed to operate. There are non-H-D-brand
oils which satisfy H-D requirements, but they are not synthetic. You can
screw up a Harley engine by using an oil which is not recommended.
"TomLoser1" <nos...@spam.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9230B8CF9EF...@65.32.1.7...
Gyp
Coombs <snag...@bellsouth.net> writes
> Better check again , dude . Last time I looked the trans/primary and
>engine oil systems on my Sportster were separate . I am currently running
>Superflo 20w50 full synth racing oil in my engine and H-D Sportrans in the
>transmission .
Thanks, I learn something new every day. I had always assumed that the
engine & gearbox shared lube and the primary was separate.
> And where in his post did Tomloser mention gearboxes ?
He doesn't, but I was pointing out that engine oil is no good in
gearboxes so should not be used in unit construction engines where the
engine and 'box share lube. The oil manufacturers produce motorcycle
engine oil so that it will work in this environment. Which is why you
have car engine oil and also the typically more expensive for no
apparent gain motorcycle oil.
So I could have used Mobil 1 in the Sportster quite happily. Ah well the
HD oil was about a third of the price.
tmgs
>Folks,
>I've been running dino in my Harleys for over 10 years, changing it every
>2000 miles. Usually Kendall 20-50 or HD 20-50.
>I'm considering Mobil one synth, as it's reasonably priced, and I've
>heard good things about it. Then...
>I see this Mobile one V-Twin stuff for 8 bucks a quart. Mobil's website
>says to not use the regular 15-50 for auto's in motorcycles. Their
>reasons in the FAQ's are vague at best, siting additive differences, etc.
well read your servie manual, for my 2001 FLHT it says if HD oil is not
available, to use a oil certified for diesel engines
here's the recomended viscosity
below 40 degrees - 10W40, above 40 degrees - 20W50, above 60 degrees
50w, above 80 degrees 60w
page 97 of the owners manual, it also says to change at the first 1000
miles and every 5000 after that., My bike has never seen oil/older older
than 3000 miles.
>Then... I see their 15-50 is "New" and to definately not use it in your
>bike, but to go with the unacceptable $8.00 a quart v-twin stuff.
>
>I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
>it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
>I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
>read them all.
>
>Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
>
>Ride safe
>-Tom
>
AH #103, SENS, BS#80, FLF <http://www.bikershut.com>
Find elected officials at <http://www.vote-smart.org>, N.R.A. <http://www.NRA.org>
t m g s <a t sym bo l> b e l l s o u t h <d o t> n e t
tmgs
>Folks,
>I've been running dino in my Harleys for over 10 years, changing it every
>2000 miles. Usually Kendall 20-50 or HD 20-50.
>I'm considering Mobil one synth, as it's reasonably priced, and I've
>heard good things about it. Then...
>I see this Mobile one V-Twin stuff for 8 bucks a quart. Mobil's website
>says to not use the regular 15-50 for auto's in motorcycles. Their
>reasons in the FAQ's are vague at best, siting additive differences, etc.
well read your servie manual, for my 2001 FLHT it says if HD oil is not
available, to use a oil certified for diesel engines
here's the recomended viscosity
below 40 degrees - 10W40, above 40 degrees - 20W50, above 60 degrees
50w, above 80 degrees 60w
page 97 of the owners manual, it also says to change at the first 1000
miles and every 5000 after that., My bike has never seen oil/older older
than 3000 miles.
>Then... I see their 15-50 is "New" and to definately not use it in your
>bike, but to go with the unacceptable $8.00 a quart v-twin stuff.
>
>I don't know what to think. Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
>it out? Are there any places to get hard facts about it?
>I did a dearch on Google and found about 1,000,000 hits, so I couldn't
>read them all.
>
>Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
>
>Ride safe
>-Tom
>
tmgs
>In message <Xns9230B8CF9EF...@65.32.1.7>, TomLoser1
><nos...@spam.net> writes
>
>>Sorry if I start an oil thread again, I can't help it ;-)
>
>Not wishing to perpetuate an oil thread, but...
>
>The demands that a gearbox places on an oil are significantly different
>to the demands placed on an oil by an engine. If you put a normal engine
>oil in a gearbox the gearbox will rip the oil to shreds in a few miles.
really?, hmmmmmmmm, I ran kendall in the tranny of my shovel for the
couple hundred thousand miles I owned it, I did rebuild it once.
>Car engines are like big twin engines - separate engine & gearbox. If
>you look at the majority (if not all) Japanese motorcycle engines they
>are of unit construction (like the Sportster) - the engine and gearbox
>share a common oil system.
>
>Standard Mobil 1 is great in a car but would not work in a unit
>construction motorcycle block.
>
>So, if you run a big twin you should be OK with straight Mobil 1 in your
>engine as you will be running a different lube in your gearbox.
>
>If you are running a Sportster, or a Ducati, or Honda XLV or Suzi
>V-strom or anything else with a unit construction then you need to run
>the new oil that can cope with both engines and gearboxes.
>
>Thanks for reminding me why I just bought HD 20-50 rather than synth for
>my Sportster oil change :-)
>--
>Gyp BOTAFOT#99, BotToS#4, UKRMT5BB
>'89 R80RT - The smooth one - for motorcycling
>'97 883 Sportster - The Tinseltown Express - for Autoglym
>'02 Ultraglide - the turbo one - for steaming along
>Take out the chemical loo to reply
Softailguy
> Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
> 15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there? How often are you changing
> it out?
I switched to Mobil One 15W-50 at 5,000 miles in August of '98. I
change oil & filter every 5,000 miles. I now have 56,000+ miles on it
and haven't had any problems...
Doug Hahn
'98 FXSTC
ratdoc
Run Mobile 1 for the thermal properties and if you're worried about
your lubricant being "too slippery" just throw in a pinch of sand.
ratdoc
'80 Superglide
'02 Ultra
Doug B.
oil rated for diesel engines
Most better car engine oils are specified for diesel engine use. There
are 2 certification IDs on these oils. The certification for gasoline
engines is 2 letters starting with "S". They increment up the alphabet
as oil standards change over time. SA was the first standard decades
ago. They are up to "SL" these days. Diesel engines have a different
approval code, 2 letters starting with a "C". Currently "CF" is the
latest diesel engine approval. These are the "API" certifications - API
is, I think, American Petroleum Institute. So on the better oils made
today you will likely see both the SL and CF API approvals.
Pretty much every synthetic oil has diesel engine approval. Some
exceptions may be racing oils where there is no attempt made to sell to
owners of diesel engines.
There is nothing magic about Mobil 1 - Valvoline "SynPower" full
synthetic oil is at least as good or better. However, Valvoline also
sells synthetic blends so know what you are buying. Over a year ago,
Castrol changed their synthetic offering from full synthetic to
synthetic/conventional blend without making the information public.
The power of synthetic oil is amazing. BMW cars (and a number of
others) come with "free maintenance" for 3 years. To keep their costs
down, they tested synthetic oils in their engines and mapped the effects
of high rpm, low rpm, temperature, etc. Their cars now monitor driving
conditions... mileage, rpm, internal temperature, hours of operation,
etc. and calculate the life of the engine oil. Your "free service"
isn't on a prescribed schedule, it comes when your car tells you it is
time to change the oil. My first change was at 16,200 miles and, man,
was I nervous about leaving the oil in that long. But the car used
essentially NO oil during that time, it was freaky. So I'll end up
getting 2 "free maintenance" intervals over the 3 years/36,000 miles
warranty period. They do everything for you, it's true, just not very
often! That means 8,000 miles in an air cooled mc engine ought to be
fine. My guess is that 25,000 to 30,000 miles in a car engine would
leave synthetic performing better than conventional oil at 3000 miles -
no, I'm not going to try it.
As for motors needing an oil that is less slippery than synthetic oil -
HOGwash. You have valves and lifters to lube... the slipperier the oil
the better it is for the valve and lifter. You have cam bearings and
cam-lifter surfaces to lube... there is no question here that slipperier
oil is better oil as long as the film is not compromised under
pressure... and that's the strength of synthetic... the film stays
intact longer than conventional oils under high pressure conditions.
You have piston pins and crank pins - no question there that slipperier
is better. And you have piston rings... slipperier is better also -
though I'd leave the conventional oil in during the breakin period just
to make sure the engine does break-in within a reasonable number of
miles otherwise you'll have to hold it under 55 for the first 10,000
miles (!!!).
GLA Inc.
> TomLoser1 wrote:
>> Is anyone out there using Mobil 1
>> 15-50 for auto's in their bikes out there?
>
> Motorcycle Consumer News did a good lab study and report on
> Mobil-1 and several other oils; if you subscribe you can get
> back issues, or you may be able to read it on their web site:
I seem to remember a rather detailed article in one of the major mags
(American Iron or American Rider, I think) about a year or so back by a
Mobil engineer who was involved in the development of the Vtwin oil. He
explained what their research showed and why the V Twin oil was different
and why it should be so. Of course, he worked for them, but reading the
story, I didn't get the feeling that he was *selling* Mobil 1 over all
others. Seemed pretty well-reasoned.
Cordially,
Tom
Carl
> which does not include synthetic oils. Basically, some oils are too
> slippery for the way an H-D is designed to operate. There are
non-H-D-brand
> oils which satisfy H-D requirements, but they are not synthetic. You can
> screw up a Harley engine by using an oil which is not recommended.
>
to sliiippeeerrryyyyy I'd have shit for bearings! Once again,,,,,bottom post
please!!!!
--
Carl
99 FLSTF
Ken
wrote:
>Harley's are designed for a specific lubricity,
>which does not include synthetic oils. Basically, some oils are too
>slippery for the way an H-D is designed to operate. There are non-H-D-brand
>oils which satisfy H-D requirements, but they are not synthetic. You can
>screw up a Harley engine by using an oil which is not recommended.
>
Have you seen an engine failure that had been running on synthetics??
I haven't.
DAVE
>Have you seen an engine failure that had been running on synthetics??
>I haven't.
Yep, Mine
15000 miles blown lifters,
40000 miles pinion bearing crankpin and rod bearings.
Oil was changed every 3000 miles.
OIl wont stop a failure if the motor wants to come apart
TomLoser1
@mb-ba.aol.com:
Ew that sucks. But... I do not think those failures were caused by
using synth. There could be many wariables that caused your probs.
I agree with you though... If yer motor has serious issues, it won't
matter what oil your putting in.
I'm changing to Mobil 1 15-50 today. I'll post a follow up in the future.
Thanks for all the replies, this round's on me.
-Tom
Mark R. Hansen
"GLA Inc." <GLA...@att.net> wrote in news:B934D73B.81F4%GLA...@att.net:
> Tom,
One of the primary differences between most automotive oils and
motorcycle engine oils is the abscence of friction modifiers. These can
cause problems with wet clutches. The other big factor is the antiwear
components of the additive package. Many of you will remember the big to
do in Cruising Rider a few years ago where HD asserted that SJ automotive
oils were no longer appropriate for HD's as there were now limits on Zinc
and Phosphorus additives that they did not feel comfortable with. However,
these new limits (ostensibly to mitigate supposed problems with catalytic
systems) never did apply to either the 10W-40 or 20W-50 viscosity grades
which most all motorcycles use. So, they just wanted to scare folks into
buying a HD branded product (which or course they do not make). There is a
brand of oil which has more zinc and phosphorus than the HD stuff and has
performed better in wear testing and golly gee...it's a full synthetic!
God Bless,
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =-----
StephG
keyboard and out came news:Xns924FD33798E...@209.25.157.130:
> One of the primary differences between most automotive oils and
> motorcycle engine oils is the abscence of friction modifiers.
For 100 points, what additive is the primary form of "friction modifier"?
D_Hawg
"StephG" <Frank...@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:Xns924FC4BF...@130.133.1.4...
> On 18 Jul 2002, "Mark R. Hansen" <best1s...@yahoo.com> smacked the
> keyboard and out came news:Xns924FD33798E...@209.25.157.130:
>
> > One of the primary differences between most automotive oils and
> > motorcycle engine oils is the abscence of friction modifiers.
>
> For 100 points, what additive is the primary form of "friction modifier"?
Zinc ?
StephG
out came news:rcLZ8.243$Pr1.70...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com:
Nope.
D_Hawg
> On 18 Jul 2002, "D_Hawg" <daleno...@prodigy.net> smacked the keyboard
and
> out came news:rcLZ8.243$Pr1.70...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com:
>
> >
> > "StephG" <Frank...@lycos.com> wrote in message
> > news:Xns924FC4BF...@130.133.1.4...
> >> On 18 Jul 2002, "Mark R. Hansen" <best1s...@yahoo.com> smacked the
> >> keyboard and out came news:Xns924FD33798E...@209.25.157.130:
> >>
> >> > One of the primary differences between most automotive oils
and
> >> > motorcycle engine oils is the abscence of friction
modifiers.
> >>
> >> For 100 points, what additive is the primary form of "friction
modifier"?
> >
> > Zinc ?
>
> Nope.
>
Ryder Rick
"D_Hawg" <daleno...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:WCOZ8.418$Wj3.77...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com...
Of course,
KY jelly........
RickB
Tuples
>> modifier"?
It is Slippery Shitium Mono-Oxy-Hydro Flemmium Chloride!
All I know is that if I can't find it on eBay, it aint worth nuttin.