Suspension..
I am Tosk
I am pretty sure I need to tone down the springs in the 03 KX125 I just
picked up. It is soooo stiff, unfortunately both The Mouse and I
strained lower back muscles getting hit in the ass with the seat, real
hard. I took four clicks out of the front shocks top and bottom, and
turned the rear valve in two clicks, thinking I was getting to the
softest setting, based on the way the KX100S are set up with 4 settings.
It helped some, but it's still real stiff. I didn't see a screw to
balance the ambient air pressure.
Anybody know how I judge what springs I have, and what I need in a KX?
Should I be looking for numbers on the rear spring? How do I determine
whats in front? Am I biting off more than I can chew, do I need to send
them out to have them set up for me? Is there something I can do to make
it softer without new springs, or should I just spend the money. Looks
like the sag is nearly as low as it can go, there is about 1/2 to 3/4 of
an inch left to open it up, but the spring still looks pretty thick.
Yesterday when we got to the track the bike (125) started, then bogged
out a couple of times, then wouldn't start at all. I went after the carb
today. It's cool the way the whole rear end comes off with three bolts
and out of the way. After cleaning the carb, which was a bit dirty, but
probably not the main problem, I went to check the plug. There I found
an issue, the wire was not clipped on and the plug was pretty well shot
so I changed it, kicked it once, and bwaaaaaaaaaa! It's alive!!!
It's not too heavy, it is real fast and the moderate ruts were cake with
it. Still can't dive into a corner rut, but I was doing pretty good on
the straight away ruts, not even looking at them. Well, hardly anyway. I
set up the bars the way I like them but I still have to work on the
shifter and brake pedals. I kept missing second gear all day and of
course it was always when I needed it. Tried working on holding throttle
off the lip of the jumps to keep my front end from diving, started to
get that pretty good although I have been working on it with the 100
lately too.
On a side note, the 250 might be with us tomorrow. Tony was waiting for
some lighter springs from Factory Connection and was in his driveway
this afternoon with the front forks off, so I assume he got them and set
them up. The Mouse can't wait, me either but I absolutly love the 125.
Rowdy Mouse Racing, Suzuki for fun, but the Kawi's get it done!!!
HardWorkingDog
I am Tosk <justwaitaf...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Anybody know how I judge what springs I have, and what I need in a KX?
> Should I be looking for numbers on the rear spring? How do I determine
> whats in front? Am I biting off more than I can chew, do I need to send
> them out to have them set up for me? Is there something I can do to make
> it softer without new springs, or should I just spend the money. Looks
> like the sag is nearly as low as it can go, there is about 1/2 to 3/4 of
> an inch left to open it up, but the spring still looks pretty thick.
Here's a couple things to start with. First set your "race" sag, the
amount of deflection with you on the bike:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
Then, check your "static" sag, the amount of deflection with just the
weight of the bike:
http://www.tootechracing.com/Static%20Sag%20Suspension%20Tip.htm
This will tell you if you need to change the rear spring. Your manual
should give you information on determining the spring rate on your
shock, probably a series of notches on the top of the spring (I think)
and what the next step up or down spring should be.
Front should work similarly, although it's not as simple to adjust the
preload.
--
Charles
'99 YZ250
SloCalSpode
I'll sit back an listen, as I am always ready to learn something
new about dirt bikes.
SloCalSpode
------------------------------------------------------------------
justwaitafrekinmin wrote:
>getting hit in the ass with the seat, real hard.
I am Tosk
7c2c69...@i12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, jjwa...@earthlink.net
says...
Well, today was much better. I let off on the sag another half inch or
so based on a post by someone yesterday, sorry I don't remember who, but
thanks anyway. The bike was wonderful today, got tapped out in fourth in
one straight and was haulin' fast enough that I considered the
concequences of crashing and didn't do that again. I can stand up nicely
on the bike and was actually doing some jumps and casing, no problem
though. I was also working on raising (with a panic rev) or lowering
(with front brakes) the front end while flying, did pretty good at that
too. I just felt sooo fast, but decided to not ride over my head. Man, I
love this bike...
Rowdy Mouse Racing, I'm a kid all over again...
I am Tosk
7c2c69...@i12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, jjwa...@earthlink.net
says...
>
And yes, from what I understand it does.. When Jessi was bouncing up and
over the bars, I stiffened the rebound two clicks based on the
reccomendation of the local suspension guy and it worked. I just didn't
know if my spring could be sagged enough, but today I think I got it
down. I still have a bunch of push in the front end I need to work on
but the rear end is coming in nicely.
Rowdy Mouse Racing, hold on, here it comes..
Wudsracer
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***************************************************************
Scotty,
The race sag needs to be set properly to allow the bike to have the
proper "attitude" (think "geometry", or the relationship between the
front and rear of the bike, and how it effects the handling) as it
traverses the obstacles on the track or trail.
Proper spring rate will allow one to achieve this "attitude", and
still have the proper spring rate needed for the suspension to work
effectively (and take care of you as it should. Read that as "no
surprises".)
The easiest on=line tool that I've found is the Race Tech Spring
rate calculator. (although I usually adjust their findings a bit
toward the softer side.)
To access the race tech spring rate calculator, go to their site at
http://www.racetech.com/ and under "Search" in the bar menu at the
top, you will see "Spring Rate Search". Click on this, and it will
take you to the calculator.
After installing the proper springs, I usually try to get the front
end tracking properly in a straight line, and handling obstacles to my
satisfaction. Then, I will set the rear compression damping to make
the front end settle in properly when diving into a sharp turn.
After that, I will adjust the rear suspension clickers to
accommodate how the bike is acting over sharp bumps (such as braking
bumps) and whoops.
If the back end is bouncing around and kicking me in the butt, I
will back off the compression a bit.
If the back end is "wallowing" under "g-outs" and larger impacts, I
will increase my rebound dampening.
Don't screw with the gas pressure in the shock. It's close to 190
psi of nitrogen in there.
I hope that this helps you.
Good Luck and Good Riding!
Jim
PS. Parts Unlimited offers (through their affiliated dealers) Ohlins
shock springs to fit your KX for a suggested retail of about $75.
It's the best spring deal on the market.
Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF