Tracy
BTW, the Doc O'Brian's (sp?) weathering chalks that you can find in the
MicroMark catalog are pretty damn good. But try not to dump the rusty red
all over yourself. My hands now look like the Tin Man after a good
monsoon... and my Levis look pathetic!
A flat coat (Testors Acryl, Polly Scale, Testors Dullcote Lacquer) will
work, but they have the effect of making about 75% of your pastel dust
invisible. Therefore, some modelers don't use any clear varnish at all over
their work. On the other side, some modelers (I think FSM's Paul Boyer
mentioned this recently) over-weather the model, knowing that their work
will be reduced in visibility when the model gets its final overcoat. I
prefer the latter method, as the great temptation when weathering is to go
too far, and all of us could use some moderation.
As the old adage goes, airplanes get dirty, tanks get filthy. Don't make
your airplanes look like tanks. There are a few exceptions, like the
Corsairs at Henderson Field on Guadalcanal, or the paint peeling problems of
Japanese aircraft, but one has to remember that a typical combat aircraft
didn't last very long (a few months was the average) and didn't have time to
become as filthy as some modelers depict them as. As I said, there are a
few notable exceptions, though.
Lee Kolosna
Lee...@earthlink.net
Tracy,
I use pastel dust over a satin or flat coat. Don't find it works as
well over a glosscoat (as Hagueman mentions below) as it doesn't grip
so well. After that, a light dusting of flat coat and that should do
you.
Cheers,
Tim Campbell