Different things wanted and hobby shops that ship.
Daniel Dudkin
I was just thinking if any of you have tools you want to sell like (ex:drill
sets) give me a holler. Also if your hobby shop ships across the US give me
a holler.
Pop quiz:
How many bottled paints do you have (as in bottles you bought not ones you
mixed, although when I mix i mix small amounts and don't keep it)?
And I'm no one has answered me: What is the point of thinning (except to
reduce tone e.g: Make a lighter blue)?
Hobbymasters
Arlene
Daniel Dudkin wrote:
--
For further information or to place an order, contact us in any of the
following ways:
HOURS (EST):
HOBBYMASTERS Sunday 12pm - 5pm
62 White Street Monday-Thursday 10am - 6pm
Red Bank NJ, 07701 Friday 10am - 8pm
Phone: 732-842-6020 Saturday 10am - 5pm
Fax: 732-747-3752
See our website at http://www.hobbymasters.com
* NOTE: Credit card information can be either faxed, phoned or emailed.
We do accept US Money Orders.
CODs will be accepted from within the USA, but an additional amount of
$5.00 will be added.
Shipping/Handling will be based on weight and location.
mailto: hobbym...@hobbymasters.com
Danger Atom
Pop quiz:
>How many bottled paints do you have (as in bottles you bought not ones you
>mixed, although when I mix i mix small amounts and don't keep it)?
This may sound like a lot to some and too little to others, but I keep the
entire Model Master 1 enamel line with even a few of the auto colors. The
entire Aeromaster Enamel line (but switching to the acrylics with each
bottle I use up). About half the Xtra Color line and half the Humbrol line
(the old one). About 1/4 of the Gunze acrylic line. But I don't use them
much because I haven't quite figured out how I should have them thinned for
the way I spray. And I keep about 10 different colors from the Tamiya line.
They work fine for all the applications I've used them for. But when I
started modeling, they were a bit too expensive, and I had already got
hooked on the Aeromaster and Polly Scale acrylics by the time the prices had
come down. And the bottles always dry out before I can use them all. That's
not saying anything bad about their paint. I just mix in very small batches,
and age and air takes it's toll before I finish them. The only thing I keep
mixed at all times is a large bottle of Aeromaster or Floquil primer and
lacquer thinner. I prime everything before I shoot color. So it never has
time to dry up. And even when it does sit for a while and the pigment and
carrier/thinner separate, a quick mixing with a Badger paint mixer has it
good as new in no time. I also keep extra bottles or tins of certain colors
on hand that I use a lot. Like Humbrol #78. I prefer that color over the
other Brit. Int. Green colors on the market, and I use it a lot. Just
personal preference.
: What is the point of thinning (except to reduce tone e.g: Make a lighter
blue)?
The point of thinning is used mostly to make paint thin enough to air brush
better. Many manufacturers state that their paints are pre-thinned for air
brushing, but most modelers will thin them even more to suit their personal
preference. There's no real set rules for thinning, but I think all would
agree that you should start with the manufacturers recommendations and then
play with the mix until you get it to spray the way you want it.
Another way that thinning comes in handy is when you do some fine detail
painting with a brush. Sometimes the paint in the bottle is a little too
thick and when you dip your brush into it, you have a big blob on the very
tip that makes detailing hard to do. Take a few drops of paint from the
bottle and place them on a small sheet of glass, or hard, smooth surfaced
ceramic tile, or my favorite, a small square of foil wrapped over the open
end of an unused paint bottle lid. (This will make a small paint cup, and
when you are done, unwrap the foil back off the lid, surrounding the paint,
ball it up and trash it. Then you can use another square of foil with the
same lid to mix up your next color. Very cheap, very disposable, very easy.)
Once you have the drops of paint in your cup, add a drop of thinner and mix
it up with a toothpick (cheap and disposable as well). Be careful not to
puncture the foil though, or the paint and thinner will pour through into
the lid and leave a bit of a mess. Now that you have the paint thinned, you
can dip the tip of your brush into it and the paint will flow into the
bristles and flow back out much better when you apply it to the details. But
don't thin it too much or it will flow all over the details making it a wash
instead of just a better flowing paint. I think you'll find that thinning
your paint just a little is much better than having a big ball of black
paint in the middle of an instrument dial. But what ever you do, never add
the thinned paint back into it's original bottle or thin the paint IN the
bottle. The extra thinner in the mix will throw the balance of
carrier-to-pigment off and the pigment will settle to the bottom of the
bottle and become a thick mess within a few days. Sometimes it's impossible
to fix and you'll have to throw the whole bottle away. That gets expensive.
As for thinner being used to make paint lighter, that's not how it works. To
make a shade lighter, you would need to add a lighter color to the base
color to change it's hue. Something like white or a light gray does the
trick. Always add the lighter color a drop at a time and compare it to the
base color as you mix it. Just one drop of white added to a dark or medium
blue can change the hue drastically. A lot more than you would think, until
you've added too much, and find out too late. Also adding a drop or two of
thinner to your mixture will help the pigments of the two colors mix a lot
better and smoother.
I hope this will help you out. If you have any more questions, post them.
There's a lot of people out here in R.M.S. land who will be happy to answer
your questions and give you tips. Like they say "The only stupid question is
the one that's unasked."
--
D.A.
Rima Luma Chug-a-Lug
Tumple of the Bottumless Beer Bottel
Keepur of tha teMpul keg tap.
Sayer of the sakred wurds.
"Tank yu sur! Can i hafe anothr?!"
Daniel Dudkin
Danger Atom wrote in message
<#3nDsoxN#GA....@upnetnews02.moswest.msn.net>...
Wow! How long did it take you to gather all them up??????????
And do you use oil paints to airbrush? How do you clean up? My airbrush if
all f****d up with white oil paint from testors because I couldn't get it
off (so is the bottle and so is the little tube that goes from the bottle up
to the airbrush (it's bottom feed).
Danger Atom
Wow! How long did it take you to gather all them up??????????
Well, it didn't take all that long really. I bought most of the Model Master
paints in a binge buying session the day after payday. As for the rest of
the paints, they've mostly been bought "as needed". (or wanted) The first
time I tried the Xtra Color line, I loved the fact that it ended up with a
gloss surface and could go straight into decaling once dry without putting
down a gloss coat. I use it almost exclusively for exterior painting and
I'll use the other paints for interiors since they rarely get any decals and
usually require a flat finish. Although many modern aircraft has a gloss or
semi-gloss cockpit. This is because harder gloss paints in cockpits (of real
aircraft) stand up better and take more abuse without chipping than the flat
paints in the cockpits of WW II aircraft ever did.
Be careful when buying paints though. It seems like everytime a new brand
comes out, you have to try a bottle or two (or more). Then when you find out
it's the next best thing to sliced bread, you have to have them all. And all
the old stuff is left to dry in the bottles.
>And do you use oil paints to airbrush?
Sure do. Acrylics as well. I'll explain more in your question that's farther
down the line. (Cleaning up oils)