Well, distilled water will thin it, I thought, and poured some paint to a
cup for thinning. Thinning seemed to work and I proceeded to airbrushing.
I sprayed the droptank and proceeded to the plane proper, but after just
starting my trusty Badger started to clog. I opened the color jar and to my
horror the blobs had returned and the inside of the jar consisted of thin
upper layer and blobby paste bottom. It wasn't a minute ago when I had
throughly mixed it !!!
Eventually, after much cursing I was able to spray the color...after the the
jar contained about 80% distilled water, 10-15% acrylics solvent and only
rumor of paint. But everyone who has sprayed plain water on plastic knows
the problem...suffice to say I was one mad customer at this point!
Why I post this here? Well, I would have simply abandoned Warbird Acrylics
and never bothered RMS crew had I not had previous good experiences with the
same range's Finnish Green / L.Blue.
So, does Floquil (the actual manufacturer) have a piss-poor quality control,
am I victim of a cosmic fluke or do ALL acrylics have problem with lightgray
shades? I recall that Testors ModelMaster Acryl range is uneven, for
example.
I KNOW there must be Warbird Acrylics users, even if former ones due to
similar problems, here in RMS roster.
So, does Warbirds really (insert the "S" word here)???
************************************************************************
JaktAttackSpaning
that's funny; I had the exact same problem last night with some of
their RLM 76.
Al Lembo
replace junk with com to reply
No, I'd say you've got a faulty tin of paint there, perhaps from a duff
batch. Sounds like the ratio of pigment, binder and solvent is up the
spout. I've had similair experiences when experimenting with incompaitble
thinning agents.
Distilled water workes fine but I feel it weakens the integiry of the
paint. I prefer using windhsield washer fliud (the blue stuff) it works
fine with most brands of acrylics.
AMD's Warbird acrylics are a damn fine range of paints - don't let one bad
tin put you off.
--
Jonathan Mock
³Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand
Ignorance and prejudice, and fear, walk hand in hand...²
Is it possible that the paint has been on the shelf for a long time and has
separated? Some acrylics will seperate over long periods of time unless they
are homogonized such as the Createx brand of textile paints I use.
Mike V
Is'nt it funny how opinions differ? I tried Aeromaster acrylics extensively
when they first became available. . and the conclusion that I reached is that
they are almost unadulterated shite! I run a Badger 200 with variable
compressor/moisture trap etc and they just don't suit my airbrushing style-
they clog in seconds and to get them to spray consistently I have to open the
nozzle to a point that any idea of freehand airbrushing is a joke.
To be fair it is a problem I have had with most acrylics, but Aeromaster
are the worst by several orders of magnitude. Still can't beat good old
enamels in my opinion (tho' I'm losing faith in Extracolor) for control and
predictability. I do like the Aeromaster acrylic varnishes tho'.
Just my opinion of course. . . maybe it's a style thing?
regards
Drewe
Rama Lama Yip Diddley Aye
Temple of the Green Grass
"Better the pride that resides
In a citizen of the world
Than the pride that divides
When a colourful rag is unfurled"
find me at:-http://members.aol.com/dmanton300/index.html
-Dave
Japanese Aircraft & Ship Modeling Homepage
www.j-aircraft.com
dpl...@j-aircraft.com
Matthew Burchette (Mat...@aol.com)
IPMS 35681
Intelligent, loving, and polite. Adopt a Greyhound...ask me how.
It is because you are using the paint to spray 1/72 aircraft. They are
formulated for 1/48!
Cheers,
---- Scott Van Aken IPMS Canada 5729 ----
---- Modeling Madness Webzine ----
----"http://www.geocities.com/~scottvanaken" ----
I swear by Gunze Sangyo / Tamita acrilic colours - the only enamel I
still use is S'n'J (which is absolutely irreplaceable for bare metal
finishes).
Before you ask - yes I have quite a stash going back to those golden days
;)
Cheers, Eduardo Mitchell (Göteborg, SWEDEN)
In article <19990720133841...@ng-fe1.aol.com>,
airbr...@aol.com says...
> I took the Russian Airsuperiority Gray from Warbird Acrylic range, shaked it
> and unscrewed the lid. Inserting mixing tool I started to mix when I noticed
> that there were some suspicious blobs in the paint. After a vigorous
> whipping the paint was even but almost to a paste consistency.
>
> Well, distilled water will thin it, I thought, and poured some paint to a
> cup for thinning. Thinning seemed to work and I proceeded to airbrushing.
>
> I sprayed the droptank and proceeded to the plane proper, but after just
> starting my trusty Badger started to clog. I opened the color jar and to my
> horror the blobs had returned and the inside of the jar consisted of thin
> upper layer and blobby paste bottom. It wasn't a minute ago when I had
> throughly mixed it !!!
>
> Eventually, after much cursing I was able to spray the color...after the the
> jar contained about 80% distilled water, 10-15% acrylics solvent and only
> rumor of paint. But everyone who has sprayed plain water on plastic knows
> the problem...suffice to say I was one mad customer at this point!
>
> Why I post this here? Well, I would have simply abandoned Warbird Acrylics
> and never bothered RMS crew had I not had previous good experiences with the
> same range's Finnish Green / L.Blue.
>
> So, does Floquil (the actual manufacturer) have a piss-poor quality control,
> am I victim of a cosmic fluke or do ALL acrylics have problem with lightgray
> shades? I recall that Testors ModelMaster Acryl range is uneven, for
> example.
>
> I KNOW there must be Warbird Acrylics users, even if former ones due to
> similar problems, here in RMS roster.
>
> So, does Warbirds really (insert the "S" word here)???
>
> ************************************************************************
> JaktAttackSpaning
I just finished two 1/48 A/C for the Nats using the Aeromaster (actually
Floquil Polly S, I believe) acrylics, 8 colors in all, and found them to
be excellent, including the Gloss and Flat overcoats. I think your bottle
may have been frozen or otherwise mistreated before you bought it.
--
Regards,
Gary Zuercher
http://www.chromaconcepts.com
Marc.
JAS <ja.si...@kolumbus.fi> wrote in message
news:7n1mci$jp9$1...@news.kolumbus.fi...
Jonathan Mock <jonathan.m...@ukonline.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jonathan.mockSPAMOFF-ya0...@news.ukonline.co.uk...
> From: "JAS" <ja.si...@kolumbus.fi>
> No, I'd say you've got a faulty tin of paint there, perhaps from a duff
> batch. Sounds like the ratio of pigment, binder and solvent is up the
> spout. I've had similair experiences when experimenting with incompaitble
> thinning agents.
>
> Distilled water workes fine but I feel it weakens the integiry of the
> paint. I prefer using windhsield washer fliud (the blue stuff) it works
> fine with most brands of acrylics.
>
> AMD's Warbird acrylics are a damn fine range of paints - don't let one bad
> tin put you off.
>
DManton300 wrote:
> >AMD's Warbird acrylics are a damn fine range of paints - don't let one bad
> >tin put you off.
>
> Is'nt it funny how opinions differ? I tried Aeromaster acrylics extensively
> when they first became available. . and the conclusion that I reached is that
> they are almost unadulterated shite! I run a Badger 200 with variable
> compressor/moisture trap etc and they just don't suit my airbrushing style-
> they clog in seconds and to get them to spray consistently I have to open the
> nozzle to a point that any idea of freehand airbrushing is a joke.
> To be fair it is a problem I have had with most acrylics, but Aeromaster
> are the worst by several orders of magnitude. Still can't beat good old
> enamels in my opinion (tho' I'm losing faith in Extracolor) for control and
> predictability. I do like the Aeromaster acrylic varnishes tho'.
> Just my opinion of course. . . maybe it's a style thing?
> regards
> Drewe
>I do like the Aeromaster acrylic varnishes tho'.
One all. I hate them. Can't get the stuff *ever* to dry properly - or at
least the surface stays tacky forever and is unbelievable fragile.
Shite was a fair description
Shane
>Interesting how you in the UK still put "e" 's on the ends of words we in the
>US
>have long abandoned. JO'C
Well. .. we usually do drop the "e". . but for some strange reason in
situations that people would be offended by "shit" you can still get away with
"shite". . . well, sometimes anyway!
Also regarding "My Word" do you chaps on the eastern side of the pond enjoy the
radio show, or is it just us colonials? JO'C
Sounds like a thinning problem Drewe and/or air pressure. I've experienced
the same things, but I increase the thinner and rop the pressure a little.
They are great paints - once you get used to using them.
>Interesting....so if someone is offended by the word "potato" all I have to do is
>spell it "potatoe."
>My word, I think he's got it!
>
>Also regarding "My Word" do you chaps on the eastern side of the pond enjoy the
>radio show, or is it just us colonials? JO'C
>
>DManton300 wrote:
>
>> In article <379543D2...@erols.com>, Jonathan O'Connor <sha...@erols.com>
>> writes:
>>
>> >Interesting how you in the UK still put "e" 's on the ends of words we in the
>> >US
>> >have long abandoned. JO'C
>>
>> Well. .. we usually do drop the "e". . but for some strange reason in
>> situations that people would be offended by "shit" you can still get away with
>> "shite". . . well, sometimes anyway!
I like George Carlin's line along this off-topic....
In the old days, comedians in king's court were called Fooles. So
whenever I fill out a form, in space marked "Occupation", I put
"Foole". I spell it with the final "e" just to piss 'em off.
-------------------------------
-- Jon Fincher
-- Rama Lama Vroom Vroom
-- Temple of the Flaming Pipes
--
-- nospam...@drizzle.com
-- http://www.drizzle.com/~warlok
-- (remove nospam_ to reply
--
-- IPMS Seattle
-- http://www.blarg.net/~ipmssea
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