Car Painting Question
MAYSUN5961
to buff out the paint on a car I'm finishing. The Final Treatment provided a
nice smooth and high gloss appearance, but I rubbed it too far, because the
gray primer underneath the white paint is slightly visible.
I need to apply another coat of white to even out the paint. What's the best
approach to remove the final treatment wax so that the paint will adhere? Will
soap and water work or should I give the paint a light sanding?
Thanks in advance for any help/tips.
Jeff
The eagle has landed
Ray S. & Nayda Katzaman
Try using some steel wool (0000) that's the finest you'll find. Rub it just ever
so lightly over the painted surface to remove the wax, then wash with some soap
and water to remove the dust, let dry and paint again. Or you could get the micro
sand paper kit from your hobby shop and do the same.
Tip: when waxing or using modeling rubbing/polishing compounds, don't apply too
much pressure around the edges of doors, and other edges, or you'll get the same
results of going thru to the primer.
Good luck and happy modeling,
Ray
===
J.R.
I would definitely wash it first with soap and water, then wet sand
it lightly with maybe 600 grit.
My boss always told me that if you're touching up a spot, never to
sand directly over a surface that still has an oilly/waxy substance on
it, because it will work the substance into the paint rather than
removing it, which means that the substance will still be there to
inhibit the paint. I'm not really sure whether that's true or not, but
it makes sense. I work in prototype modelmaking and usually only have
a matter of days to complete a model so I've just always sided with
caution and taken his word for it ;^).
Good luck,
J.R.
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EmilA1944
Jeff,
You don't say what kind of white paint you used, but if The Treatment removed
that much of it (unless you rubbed for a long, long time!) so as to expose the
primer, am I right in guessing that it was enamel, perhaps Testors? The
Treatment, like many automotive waxes, uses (believe I'm right on this)
turpentine as a solvent. Turpentine is death on Testors enamels, unless it has
cured for a good while say a month or more.
You must remove all traces of the wax before trying to touch up the area. The
best stuff I know of for removing wax is common naptha, which is remarkably
cheap, and readily available in paint stores, and the paint departments of the
larger discount department stores. Of course, one can go to an auto supply
store and buy "Wax, Grease and Oil Remover" for autobody use, but this is
mostly naptha as well, at 2-3 times the price. Naptha will dissolve wax, and
keep it in suspension.
If you used enamel to paint the body, it will be very hard to get it to adhere
tightly enough to "feather-edge" when rubbing out, if you "spot" just the area
needed. If enamel, perhaps the best solution is to mask off the panel (door,
quarter panel, whatever) where the thin spots occurred, and repaint that entire
panel--no primer needed, simply go over the top of the white paint already
there.
If you used lacquer, then no need for the above advice, as the best
characteristic of all with lacquer is that each succeeding coat (layer) of
lacquer will penetrate the previous coat, making spot touchups a workable
solution. Simply degrease/dewax the entire body with naptha (pour some in a
vessel large enough to accommodate the entire body shell, dunk it in, swish it
around to flush the entire surface--then remove promptly, and allow to air-dry.
Then touch it up, allow to dry and rub out.
Hint: When rubbing out a model car body shell, start in the middle of a panel
or surface, and work to the outer edges. If there are raised character lines,
work toward them instead of starting on them and working away. This forces you
to take notice of them, and avoid rubbing too much paint away on high spots and
raised areas.
Art Anderson
Tom Hiett
> Tip: when waxing or using modeling rubbing/polishing compounds, don't
apply too
> much pressure around the edges of doors, and other edges, or you'll get
the same
> results of going thru to the primer.
A good tip I heard was polish up to edges, but never on the edges.
Tom