Acrylic Paint for Car Models?
Jerry Gardner
I'm just getting started in car modeling after building planes for
years.
What is the general feeling about using water-based acrylic paints for
painting car bodies? All of the magazines I've read talk mainly about
enamals and lacquers.
Can acrylic paints be sanded and polished just like enamals and
lacquers, or should I switch to automotive lacquers?
--
Jerry Gardner | "Bill Clinton has all the steely resolve
w6...@hotmail.com | of a kamakaze pilot on his 37th mission."
Leon Tefft
Nothing compares to the gloss of automotive lacquer. Also, the typical
airbrush painting process is about as similar for lacquer as it is for a
hobby paint. The only difference is that lacquers are more flammable and
hazardous to breathe. If you want the best results then lacquer is the way
to go.
If you would like a copy of a lacquer painting checklist I compiled for a
club demonstration send me a private reply.
- Leon Tefft
http://cobradeuce.com
Jerry Gardner <w6...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:slrn8a8vh...@defiant.home.com...
Alexander Kung
>
> I'm just getting started in car modeling after building planes for
> years.
>
> What is the general feeling about using water-based acrylic paints for
> painting car bodies? All of the magazines I've read talk mainly about
> enamals and lacquers.
>
> Can acrylic paints be sanded and polished just like enamals and
> lacquers, or should I switch to automotive lacquers?
>
> --
> Jerry Gardner | "Bill Clinton has all the steely resolve
> w6...@hotmail.com | of a kamakaze pilot on his 37th mission."
I have used automotive lacquer and Tamiya acrylic paints for car bodies.
From my experience the acrylic paints are softer and take longer to dry
compared to lacquer paints. You want your paint hard for polishing out.
I am now trying the Testors new Acryl Paints to see how they are.
With lacquer paint you do have to take precautions with the fumes.
Alex
Kevin Rowe
happy with it...I'll use those paints again, but I still prefer the lacquer
for true realism and gloss.
Check out the Impala at my site: http://members.home.net/kevvy
> > What is the general feeling about using water-based acrylic paints for
> > painting car bodies? All of the magazines I've read talk mainly about
> > enamals and lacquers.
> >
>
Andy
I am happy to use acrylic for my cars, but then I have only built two
cars in my life. Both are junkers and look perfectly good in a dull and
dusty finish...
/Anders
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Leon Tefft
private replies for sending an attached file e-mail, but I'll cut and paste
the text here anyway although it will not have the same appearance. It's
meant to be used as a guide. There's plenty of room to do things differently
figuring in your own unique style of painting.
Acrylic Lacquer Application Checklist
Preparation
1) Make sure you have proper ventilation and/or a chemical cartridge face
mask.
2) Room temperature (65-75 degrees) is optimal for spraying acrylic lacquer.
Cooler is better than warmer. Applications below 60 and above 80 degrees are
not recommended.
3) Make sure your primer/paint is adequately thinned to suit your method of
application.
4) Have the mold lines been removed? Sink marks filled? Do any panel lines
need to be rescribed? Is the surface scuffed for primer adhesion? Has the
material been washed with a detergent soap and thoroughly dry? Is the
surface free of dust and other contaminants?
Primer Application
* Agitate the primer prior to any application
1) Apply 1 or 2 moderate coats, let dry, check for surface area flaws.
Repair if necessary and repeat.
2) Once satisfied with the surface area, apply a heavy coat, let dry,
lightly sand with 3600 grit cloth.
3) Apply a heavy coat, let dry, lightly sand with 4000 grit cloth.
* Remember, the primer is there to protect the surface area from the
lacquer's hot solvent base. No surface area should be exposed at this time.
If so, repeat step 3 until sufficiently covered.
* Remember to spray the underside of edges (body panels, wheel wells, etc.)
to help prevent chipping or flaking of paint during later stages of
polishing and assembly.
Colorcoat Application - Solids
* Agitate the paint prior to any application
1) Apply 2-3 light coats. Check for etching. If etching occurs, you do not
have a sufficient primer coat. Apply more primer before restarting the
colorcoat application. Etching cannot be masked with lacquer.
2) Apply 2-3 gradually heavier coats allowing at least 15-20 minutes drying
time between each.
3) Apply a heavy wet coat, let dry overnight, lightly sand with 3600 grit
cloth.
4) Apply 4-6 more heavy coats, two at a time if desired. Check for
contaminants and orange peel and sand away if necessary. Final coats should
be sanded smoother than earlier ones (3600, 4000, 6000 grits).
5) If satisfied with the appearance of the color, spray one final light to
moderate coat to balance the overall coverage. Let dry overnight.
* Remember to spray the underside of edges to help prevent chipping or
flaking of the paint during later stages of polishing and assembly.
Colorcoat Application - Metallics & Pearls
1) Apply metallics and pearls in the same manner as above with special
attention to the following :
* Metallic and pearl components settle quickly. Agitate the paint frequently
to achieve a uniform appearance.
* Vary your spraying pattern (front-back, back-front, etc.). Spray adjacent
surfaces whenever possible on separate parts (top of fenders-hood, body
panels-doors, body-convertible hardtops, etc.).
* Try to avoid runs during heavy coats. Metallic and pearl components will
settle within runs and distort the appearance. Let dry and sand if extreme,
otherwise cover with further coats.
* Orange peel is far more noticeable with metallics/pearls. While applying
heavy coats, let dry and sand as needed to smooth the surface.
* Once satisfied, apply light mist coats (as needed) to balance the overall
finish. At this time there should be no surface contaminants, orange peel,
or sanding marks. The finish should look even throughout.
Colorcoat Application - Candies
* Candies are translucent colors applied over basecoats. Use colorcoat
application methods to achieve a suitable base prior to the candy
application. Removing orange peel and surface contaminants from the basecoat
are critical prior to application of a candy finish.
1) Apply 2-3 light candy coats over the base color concentrating on the
uniform use of your airbrush. Try to maintain an even amount of spray, even
speed of coverage, and an even spraying distance from the surface area.
Spraying adjacent parts is critical to maintaining the overall balance to
the depth of the finish.
2) Apply heavier coats as necessary to achieve the color effect you want,
two at a time if desired. Let dry sufficiently between applications. Orange
peel is not of significant importance.
* Dust particles and contaminants must be removed as soon as they appear. If
not, they will attract the candy color pigments and form dark spots. These
cannot be masked with further candy coat applications.
* The more coats applied, the more easily evenness and depth of color are
achieved. The trade off is the darkness level of the color increases, but
the effect is gradual. Expect to apply 6-8 coats to achieve a good balance
of evenness and depth of tint. Lightly tinting a surface (fades,
highlighting, shadowing, etc.) requires good airbrush technique to achieve
uniformity of the finish.
Clearcoat Application
* The real appearance to what your finish will look like is already done.
Clearcoat seals and enhances the basecoat, provides gloss, and, to a certain
extent in most cases, increases the depth of the finish.
* Prior to clearcoat application, consider if you want to perform any detail
painting, shadowing of panel lines, application of foil trim or decals, etc.
If applying any type of paint or decal, let dry overnight before proceeding
with the clearcoat application.
* Patience is critical! Lacquer applied heavily too early could cause
etching, blotching of metallics/pearls, running or distortion of detail
paint, and bubbling of decals.
1) Apply 2-3 mist coats. Let dry for 20-30 minutes. Contaminants must be
sanded off at each coat application or they will forever be sealed in and
visible.
2) Gradually apply 2-3 more moderate coats. Let dry for one hour.
3) Begin applying heavy coats two at a time if desired. After each 1-2 coat
application, let dry for at least 2 hours.
4) Repeat step 3 for a total of 6-8 heavy coats, or more if desired.
5) Apply one final heavy coat. Identify areas that you anticipate will be
difficult to rub out and polish (extractor vents, engine bays, deep
recesses, etc.) and spray these areas last to help minimize texturing of the
surface with overspray. Allow a drying time of about 2 weeks.
* Again, remember to spray the underside of edges to prevent chipping and
flaking during later stages of polishing and assembly.
* Remove surface contaminants between applications by sanding only. Using a
hobby knife or other tool to pick these out of the surface will most likely
result in a permanent pockmark depression.
* Remember to apply enough clearcoat to sufficiently protect the colorcoat
from sanding if you will be using a polishing kit to rub out the finish. If
you sand completely through a clearcoat into a metallic or pearl base you
must repaint the colorcoat. Reapplying the clearcoat will not repair this
problem. Sanding into a candy coat could result in an uneven finish. Sanding
into a solid is generally not noticeable.
* My finishes are applied primarily with a Paasche VL airbrush, #3 needle,
#3 tip. Primer is DuPont Variprime thinned with 616S Converter. Clearcoat is
PPG Duracryl DCA 468 Hi-Performance Clear thinned with Duracryl DTL 105
thinner. Colorcoats are PPG formulas whenever possible.
I don't wet sand anything because it makes it more difficult to see the area
I'm working on. Each sanding cloth in a polishing kit will eliminate the
fine scratches from the cloth used before it if used properly. Swirl & haze
remover and polish will finish the job. Novus # 1 Plastic Clean & Shine is
outstanding for a final polish.
- Leon Tefft
http://cobradeuce.com
Warlok <nospam...@drizzle.com> wrote in message
news:qn1eas4v3pqpg23j8...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:05:44 GMT, "Leon Tefft"
> <kin...@cobradeuce.com> wrote:
>
> >If you would like a copy of a lacquer painting checklist I compiled for a
> >club demonstration send me a private reply.
>
> Any qualms about just posting it here, Leon? I'm sure there are a lot
> of car modellers lurking, afraid to venture into the ruggeds domains
> of "1/48th v. 1/72nd", "which airbrush should I use", and "Who the
> hell is the Mon-key?" to ask many questions.
>
> I know I'd love to see it....
>
> ----------------------------
> -- Jon Fincher
> -- Rama Lama Vroom Vroom
> -- Temple of the Flaming Pipes
> --
> -- nospam...@drizzle.com
> -- http://www.drizzle.com/~warlok
> -- (remove nospam_ to reply
> --
> -- IPMS Seattle
> -- http://www.ipms-seattle.org
> --
> ----------------------------
lck
>
> I'm just getting started in car modeling after building planes for
> years.
>
> painting car bodies? All of the magazines I've read talk mainly about
> enamals and lacquers.
>
> lacquers, or should I switch to automotive lacquers?
>
> --
> Jerry Gardner | "Bill Clinton has all the steely resolve
> w6...@hotmail.com | of a kamakaze pilot on his 37th mission."
I prefer more to use Tamiya acrylic than definitly automotive lacquers.
From my experience, acrylics are harder to get a very smooth spray than
enamals because it dries faster before hitting the model surface. Many
people say the acrylic paint is softer but I like it. Most of time I
lay a thick enough layer of paint for one wet sand using 1500 grid or
smooth paper. Than I use Tamiya polishing compound to polish the kit.
Do not rub the surface too hard. It actually work againt you.
With what I can see from models in contest, I don't see any difference
in the finish of the paint between acrylic and lacquer. You can still
acheive a high gloss finish with acrylic.
C K Leung
Ottawa, Canada
--
mailto:lck...@magma.ca
DSch167054
>painting car bodies? All of the magazines I've read talk mainly about
>enamals and lacquers
A couple years ago,Pat Covert did a series of articles in SAE covering
different kinds of paint for painting car bodies. He claimed you could polish
waterbased acrylics just like enamels and lacquers if you left them cure hard
first. Also claimed that the slower drying Japanese acrylics (Gunze and
Tamiya) dried to a higher gloss to start with.
I've found a polishing kit can do wonders with whatever sort of paint you use.
The biggest advantage of using automotive lacquers is that they go on a lot
thinner than enamels and acrylics so you don't cover over
trim/badges/scripts/panel-lines, plus you can get exact matches for automotive
colors - but I don't think its essential for a high gloss finish.
Don Schmitz