Slew of questions ... any pros out there?
Kevin
OK, I've been modeling for a few years, and I'm
just starting to get really serious now, now that
I've got the cash to actually buy the right tools.
But as I get more serious, I realize that I have
a lot of questions that aren't answered by the
magazines or books I've read.
So before I get into the actual questions, I would
really appreciate it if you guys could direct me
to an FAQ, or some web site URLs that might answer
my questions and more.
OK, so here are my questions. The more you can
answer, the better! :) I've read through the
Model Master "Modeler's Technical Guide," and
while it is incredibly useful, I've found there
are still several holes in some of its information.
I'll try and break my questions down into categories.
SCRIBING
- How do you do it? Do you have to use a scribing
tool, or can you just use an X-Acto knife?
- How do you scribe straight lines on a curved
surface, such as around the nose of an aircraft?
FILLING
- After you fill, sand, and paint, the paint looks
different (less glossy?) over the filler. The
book advises to "paint and sand several times."
What do they mean by this? Won't sanding just
reveal the filler again? Shouldn't you seal it
with something, THEN paint overtop of it all?
MASKING
- What's the best material to use to mask off a
small area like a canopy? How about a large
area?
- How long is it safe to leave a masking material
on the model for? What if you want to apply
several coats, do you have to remove the mask,
let dry, then apply a new mask before the next
coat of paint?
- I've experimented a bit, using Tamiya's masking
tape, and I've found that the edge of the paint
where the masking tape was is very slightly raised.
I guess this is due to paint accumulating at the
edge of the masking material. Is there a way to
avoid this? Should I just gently sand the edge
of the paint down and apply a glosscote to it all?
DECALING
- I've read you should apply a coat of GlossCote
before applying decals. How do you get rid of
the shine after the decals are applied? Logic
would dictate a coat of DullCote, but won't that
ruin cockpit canopies? What will it do to silver
painted surfaces, like landing gear and engines?
What does it do to BareMetal Foil? If I apply
the cotes with an airbrush, how do I clean the
airbrush afterwards?
- What's the difference between Decal Setting
Solution and Decal Solvent? When should you
use each? How many coats should you apply?
How long should you wait before applying another
coat?
- How do you get decals from the sheet onto the
model without tearing them? Tweezers? A knife?
Something else?
- What water temperature do you use? How long do
you leave the decals to soak?
WASHES
- I've experimented with this, and I haven't had
the same results as I've seen in the magazines.
Their shadows always look so smooth, and gently
transition to the light parts, but mine always
seem to have a rather crisp edge where the wash
ends. How do I get the soft, gradual colour
transition?
- What's the best brush to use?
- How much (if any) thinner do you mix with the
paint to make a wash? Do you use a different
mixing ratio depending on whether you're using
glossy or dull paints?
- I've read that you should always use gloss paints
for washes anyway. True? Why?
DRYBRUSHING
- Any tips on this would be appreciated, as I just
can't seem to get it right. :) I always end up
with a dark model with glaringly bright silver
blotches on the edges.
PAINTING
This is the big section. :) I've already
asked some paint questions above, but here
are some more.
- Storage: Where do you store your paints? Do
you have a sewing box, tool box, or fishing
tackle box or something? I've got a bit of
a space issue (I'm in an apartment), and I'm
presently just leaving the little bottles on
the dining room table. My fiancee is not
amused. :)
- I have an Aztek 270 airbrush which I've only
used a couple of times. I don't have an air
compressor, but I do have 2 cans of air that
I've used a bit. The trouble I've had with
it so far is that I don't have a spray booth,
so I just did it on the balcony, in a cardboard
box. I think the air pressure was way too
high, because it seemed like the brush was
either "on" or "off", and when it was "on,"
it was really ON! I've read about making
period-sized dots with your airbrush, and
the concept seems completely foreign to me.
I can't imagine having that kind of control.
So, what's my problem? The airbrush, the
air supply, or something else? I'm not
using any kind of regulator with the air
cans, I'm just hooking the hose up to the
can, putting some paint in the jar, and
going. I think this year I'll invest in
a real air compressor, but if you can give
me some tips to get some use out of these
cans without ruining my models, I'd appreciate
it.
- What's the "needle" of an airbrush?
- When applying multiple coats of paint, how long
do you wait? Do you apply a coat, then completely
clean your airbrush while it dries, then come back
a couple of days later for the next coat? Or do
you just wait a few minutes and spray again?
- What's the best kind of paint to use? I have
several of the little, square, glass containers
of Testor's paints that I've been mixing in the
glass jar that my airbrush uses. Should I instead
be using the round glass jars, that look more like
the jar that my air brush uses? Or those little
round metal tin paints? Or does it really matter?
- What do I use to thin paint with for my airbrush,
keeping in mind that I've got the little glass
square jars. Just regular enamal paint thinner?
- How do you mix paint with thinner? I mean, when
it says "2 parts paint to 5 parts thinner," how
do you measure that? I use an eye-dropper for
the thinner, but I don't feel right using the
eyedropper to pick up paint and count the drops.
Wouldn't that ruin the eyedropper? I've been using
a toothpick, and just counting the drops as they
run off the toothpick into the jar. Should I be
mixing in something besides the airbrush jar?
- What do I do with leftover thinned paint?
Does it keep?
- When you have a quick paint job (such as just
needing to paint a silver bolt on landing gear),
do you really dirty a real paint brush? For
that 2-minute job? Or can you cheat and just
use a toothpick or something?
- How do you dispose of used brush cleaner and
paint thinner? Surely you're not supposed to
just pour it down the drain?
- How do you paint the canopies of aircraft?
When do you attach the canopy? Before you
paint the model? If I mask it off and spray
paint it, how long can I leave the mask on?
Should I leave it on until I'm completely done
the model, like, even after I've applied a coat
of Future?
- How do you mask off landing gear bays? There
is a picture in the book advising just using
some masking tape, but what do you stick it
to? If you tape the edges of the bay, you'll
have a thin area around the bay that is the
colour of the plastic, right? How do I get
the paint right to the edge of the bay, but
not IN the bay at all?
- If I want to practice airbrushing, what kind
of paint should I use? Is there something
cheap, for this purpose? How long will these
2 cans of air last?
GENERAL
- I've also started using the instant glue
and accelerator. I like the results, but
it strikes me as very messy. I mean, when
I spray the accelerator, I get quite a wide
mist, when I really only need it on a small
area. Is there a neater way to apply the
accelerator?
- Future. I bought some, now how, when, and
why do I use it? :) How do I clean my
airbrush after applying it? Do I just apply
one coat? Do I have to "buff" it or anything?
Will it make things glossy that I don't want
to be glossy? Will it dull the things I *do*
want to be glossy?
- I've got a model of a battle tank from Star
Wars, The Phantom Menace. I would really like
to do a good job of it, so should I paint it
assembled or unassembled? How do you decide?
Whew! Well, I think that's it. I've been accumulating a
list so I could ask it all at once, rather than in a bunch
of posts as I thought of the questions. Hopefully, you
guys can help me out (and probably others reading this)
with some tips, pointers, and links to web sites or book
recommendations.
Thanks in advance, and I look forward to discussing this
stuff.
Kevin.
--
Java Programmer, Matrix fanatic
"There is no spoon."
- Neo
Charles Metz
> OK, I've been modeling for a few years, and I'm
> just starting to get really serious now, now that
> I've got the cash to actually buy the right tools.
> But as I get more serious, I realize that I have
> a lot of questions that aren't answered by the
> magazines or books I've read.
>
> So before I get into the actual questions, I would
> really appreciate it if you guys could direct me
> to an FAQ, or some web site URLs that might answer
> my questions and more.
>
> OK, so here are my questions.
Hello Kevin,
Welcome to the group! Our General Modeling FAQ can be found at
<http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html>. It
addresses most of the specific questions you asked, so I recommend that
you take a close look at the FAQ and then come back with any questions
that may remain.
Tony Matteliano's website at <http://www.buffnet.net/~tonym/models.htm>
lists 2660 modeling-related URLs that should keep you busy for a while
if the FAQ doesn't. ;-)
Charles Metz
Al Superczynski
>...before I get into the actual questions, I would
>really appreciate it if you guys could direct me
>to an FAQ...
99% of the questions you asked are answered in the RMS FAQ at
http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
Al Superczynski, MFE
IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968
Check out my want and disposal lists at "Al's Place":
http://www.up-link.net/~modeleral
"Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to,
and the critics will flame you every time."
OSTIAANTIC
Here is the address for the rms FAQ. I think you'll find a lot of
answers there.
http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
I'll take a crack at your decal questions, as this is one of my favorite
parts of modeling.
<<DECALING
- I've read you should apply a coat of GlossCote
before applying decals. How do you get rid of
the shine after the decals are applied? Logic
would dictate a coat of DullCote, but won't that
ruin cockpit canopies?>>
Yes, you use a flat coat, or whatever sheen you want the finish
to be. It will also seal the decals. Some people use gloss over the decals(to
give a uniform sheen) and then flat. The canopies should be installed and
masks left on until after the final overcoat, or leave the canopy off and paint
it separately.
<<What will it do to silver
painted surfaces, like landing gear and engines?>>
It will dull the metallic effect. Leave the landing gear off until
after you are done with the clear coats. Mask off the engine if you like
If you are talking about SnJ or other bare metal paints, you are probaby
better off with *no* overcoat.
<<What does it do to BareMetal Foil?>>
It will reduce the effect of being real metal. Don't overcoat this
either.
<<<If I apply
the cotes with an airbrush, how do I clean the
airbrush afterwards?>>>
I use lacquer thinner, but I use only oil based enamels and
lacquers. If you use acrylics you can use water. To me the worst part of the
hobby is cleaning the airbrush.
<<<- What's the difference between Decal Setting
Solution and Decal Solvent? When should you
use each? How many coats should you apply?
How long should you wait before applying another
coat?>>>
Microscale makes Microset, to use on the surface *before* you
slide the decal into place, as a wetting solution. After placing the decal,
put the Microsol on top, and don't touch the decal until it drys. It may
become wrinkled, but don't worry it will snuggle down as it dries. I find
that just using the Microsol alone is generally sufficient. There are other
similar products.
<<- How do you get decals from the sheet onto the
model without tearing them? Tweezers? A knife?
Something else?>>
<<<- What water temperature do you use? How long do
you leave the decals to soak?>>>
I generally use a wet paint brush, at times a toothpick or
hobby knife (very gently) to adjust the position, once in place. Cut out each
decal individually, soak it in warm water (not hot) for 2 minutes, roughly, or
until it slides easily off the paper. Place the paper with the decal still on
it close to where it will go on the model, and slide it off with the paint
brush. Make sure that you wet the area on the model where the decal will go,
with water or setting solution, before you slide it in place.
HTH
Have fun !
Ron
Kevin
Al Superczynski wrote:
>
> 99% of the questions you asked are answered in the RMS FAQ at
> http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
Ah, I *knew* there had to be an FAQ out there somewhere.
Thanks for the links, guys.
BTW, if you have any unique techniques that aren't covered
in the FAQ, I'm sure readers would appreciate you sharing.
:)
Mike
>
>
> So before I get into the actual questions, I would
> really appreciate it if you guys could direct me
> to an FAQ, or some web site URLs that might answer
> my questions and more.
Read the RMS FAQ, it should answer many of your questions.
http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
> SCRIBING
> - How do you do it? Do you have to use a scribing
> tool, or can you just use an X-Acto knife?
A scribing tool is best. There are a few and everybody has their
favourite.
> - How do you scribe straight lines on a curved
> surface, such as around the nose of an aircraft?
Thin strips of Dymo tape or special templates.
>
> FILLING
> - After you fill, sand, and paint, the paint looks
> different (less glossy?) over the filler. The
> book advises to "paint and sand several times."
> What do they mean by this?
I think they mean that if the filler shows through to sand down the
area again and repaint.
> Won't sanding just
> reveal the filler again?
Yes but it smooths it out.
> Shouldn't you seal it
> with something, THEN paint overtop of it all?
It's called priming, the same idea as painting a car or house. Apply a
primer coat before the paint.
>
> MASKING
> - What's the best material to use to mask off a
> small area like a canopy? How about a large
> area?
The old standby is masking tape, I prefer Tamiya's. There are precut
mask available from a few sources now for canopies.
> - How long is it safe to leave a masking material
> on the model for? What if you want to apply
> several coats, do you have to remove the mask,
> let dry, then apply a new mask before the next
> coat of paint?
I often leave it on for months without a problem.
> - I've experimented a bit, using Tamiya's masking
> tape, and I've found that the edge of the paint
> where the masking tape was is very slightly raised.
> I guess this is due to paint accumulating at the
> edge of the masking material. Is there a way to
> avoid this? Should I just gently sand the edge
> of the paint down and apply a glosscote to it all?
>
Try not to build up a overly thick coat of paint and sanding it down
with a very fine abrasive will remove the edge.
> DECALING
> - I've read you should apply a coat of GlossCote
> before applying decals. How do you get rid of
> the shine after the decals are applied?
Apply a flat coat.
> Logic would dictate a coat of DullCote, but won't that
> ruin cockpit canopies?
They have been masked off so that you can paint the model.
> What will it do to silver
> painted surfaces, like landing gear and engines?
> What does it do to BareMetal Foil?
It will make them dull.
> If I apply
> the cotes with an airbrush, how do I clean the
> airbrush afterwards?
You run the appropiate thinner through it.
> - What's the difference between Decal Setting
> Solution and Decal Solvent?
Setting solutions help the decal settle on the surface better and help
eliminate silvering. Solvents soften the decal and let it conform to the
surface.
> When should you
> use each?
Setting before and solvent after you apply the decal.
> How many coats should you apply?
> How long should you wait before applying another
> coat?
Let the decal set and dry then add more solvent if needed. Read the
instructions if any for specifics of the particular product.
> - How do you get decals from the sheet onto the
> model without tearing them? Tweezers? A knife?
> Something else?
All three and more. Make sure they have soaked long enough to come off
easily and they shouldn't tear unless they are defective.
> - What water temperature do you use?
Slightly warm but usually room. I use distilled water(to eliminate
water stains) and add some white glue.
> How long do
> you leave the decals to soak?
Depends on the decals.
>
> WASHES
> How do I get the soft, gradual colour
> transition?
Practice. I really can't write how I do it, I just do it.
> - What's the best brush to use?
Anything that will get the wash onto the model.
> - How much (if any) thinner do you mix with the
> paint to make a wash? Do you use a different
> mixing ratio depending on whether you're using
> glossy or dull paints?
Depends on the medium but usually it's almost like applying tinted
thinner. I use a water based wash so I just goop it on and wipe it off.
> - I've read that you should always use gloss paints
> for washes anyway. True? Why?
They don't dry as fast and flow better. Agian this depends on
preference and what you are trying to achieve.
>
> DRYBRUSHING
> - Any tips on this would be appreciated, as I just
> can't seem to get it right. :) I always end up
> with a dark model with glaringly bright silver
> blotches on the edges.
Use less paint. The brush should almost be dry, thus the term. Do not
overdo it, add a bit, stop, do something else for awhile, then come back
and look at it. If it needs more then add more but you usually find that
it looks OK.
>
> PAINTING
> - Storage: Where do you store your paints?
In a tool box under my desk. I don't let them get too cold or too hot
and I make sure they are kept relatively clean and the caps are on
tight.
> - I have an Aztek 270 airbrush which I've only
> used a couple of times. I don't have an air
> compressor, but I do have 2 cans of air that
> I've used a bit.
Get rid of the cans, they are almost useless. Get a decent air source
with a regulator and water trap.
> - What's the "needle" of an airbrush?
I don't think Aztecs have one that you can see. IIRC, they are built
into the tip.
> - When applying multiple coats of paint, how long
> do you wait?
Depends. Flat paint dries faster than gloss but I usually apply a
second coat as soon as the paint has cured enough to be tacky.
> - What's the best kind of paint to use?
Again it depends. Everyone has a preference but availability, cost and
colour range can be factors to which you use. Acrylics are less toxic
than enamels and have less odour, some think they clean up better but I
find the opposite.
> - What do I use to thin paint with for my airbrush,
> keeping in mind that I've got the little glass
> square jars. Just regular enamal paint thinner?
That will do but I find Testors paint airbrush thinner works best.
> - How do you mix paint with thinner? I mean, when
> it says "2 parts paint to 5 parts thinner," how
> do you measure that?
Don't worry about being completely accurate just mix it to the
consistancy of milk(2% not homo) as a general rule.
> - What do I do with leftover thinned paint?
Safely dispose of it. DO NOT put it back in the bottle witht he
unthinned paint.
> Does it keep?
Not for long.
> - When you have a quick paint job (such as just
> needing to paint a silver bolt on landing gear),
> do you really dirty a real paint brush? For
> that 2-minute job? Or can you cheat and just
> use a toothpick or something?
I dirty a brush but it's up to you.
> - How do you dispose of used brush cleaner and
> paint thinner? Surely you're not supposed to
> just pour it down the drain?
I save it for cleaning other things but when it has to be dumped I just
drink it. Or take it to a chemical recycling center. Ask a paint store
where you can find places for disposal.
> - How do you paint the canopies of aircraft?
Mask and paint.
> When do you attach the canopy?
Depends but usually I try to use it to cover the c/p so I can paint
everything at once..
> If I mask it off and spray
> paint it, how long can I leave the mask on?
> Should I leave it on until I'm completely done
> the model, like, even after I've applied a coat
> of Future?
Yes.
> - How do you mask off landing gear bays? There
> is a picture in the book advising just using
> some masking tape, but what do you stick it
> to? If you tape the edges of the bay, you'll
> have a thin area around the bay that is the
> colour of the plastic, right?
Not if you paint the bay first or mask it off later and then paint it.
> How do I get
> the paint right to the edge of the bay, but
> not IN the bay at all?
By masking to the very edge.
> - If I want to practice airbrushing, what kind
> of paint should I use? Is there something
> cheap, for this purpose?
I always just use the paint I normally paint with. I figure if that's
what I'm going to use then I might as well practice with it. You can
often get paint(usually some gross colour) in bargain bins at hobby
shops.
>
> GENERAL
> Is there a neater way to apply the
> accelerator?
Get a better spray head or use a brush. There is a product that looks
like a plastic toothpick with a fuzzy end that is useful for this.
> - Future. I bought some, now how, when, and
> why do I use it? :) How do I clean my
> airbrush after applying it? Do I just apply
> one coat? Do I have to "buff" it or anything?
> Will it make things glossy that I don't want
> to be glossy? Will it dull the things I *do*
> want to be glossy?
It's covered in the FAQ.
> - I've got a model of a battle tank from Star
> Wars, The Phantom Menace. I would really like
> to do a good job of it, so should I paint it
> assembled or unassembled? How do you decide?
Again it depends either on how it's constructed or personal preference
but genrally you paint small parts or subassemblies first but do the
overall external areas all at once.
Everything I've said is IMO, everybody has their own way of doing
things, some may be similar or completely different. Some techniques
work well for some and not at all for others. There is only one way to
get good at this hobby...practice. Build models and learn as you go.
Nobody can build a perfect model the first time just because they know
everything but have not put the theory to use.
The FAQ should give you more in depth info but if you have any more
questions don't be hesitant to ask....I guess that's not a worry.:)
--
Mike Dougherty
Toronto, Ont.
Canada
GO LEAFS!!!
Frank Henriquez
<gre...@lunaticfringe.org> wrote:
>> - What do I do with leftover thinned paint?
>
>
> Safely dispose of it. DO NOT put it back in the bottle witht he
>unthinned paint.
>
>
>> Does it keep?
>
>
> Not for long.
I'll agree, with some exceptions. SOME _acrylics_ will safely keep in a
thinned form for a long time (months or years) while others will separate
into pigment and goo - even in new, unopened bottles. I've "extended" some
acrylic paints by mixing them with Future. I have a jar of a lightened RLM
66 that is at least a year old, and it's still "fresh" - I used some about
a month ago.
Frank
--
Frank Henriquez Programmer/Analyst Jules Stein Eye Institute, UCLA
fr...@ucla.edu http://www.ben2.ucla.edu/~frank/index.htm
Ralph Nardone
> to an FAQ, or some web site URLs that might answer
> my questions and more.
The Ninfinger site and Tony M. 's list are two--I think you have
those.......
> SCRIBING
> - How do you do it? Do you have to use a scribing
> tool, or can you just use an X-Acto knife?
I use a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise, but Bare Metal makes a great
scribing tool. You can get away with the tip of a #11 (the pointy one)
blade.....
> - How do you scribe straight lines on a curved
> surface, such as around the nose of an aircraft?
Well, I use Dymo label tape, available in office supply stores. As it
comes, it is about 1/4" wide, but you can cut it into narrow strips. You
can also use masking tape, but it isn't as durable as the label tape.
> FILLING
> - After you fill, sand, and paint, the paint looks
> different (less glossy?) over the filler. The
> book advises to "paint and sand several times."
> What do they mean by this? Won't sanding just
> reveal the filler again? Shouldn't you seal it
> with something, THEN paint overtop of it all?
If you are using regular flat hobby paints, as long as the filler has been
smoothed out, it shouldn't be a problem. If you can still see the seam or
excess filler, re-sand and re-paint. If you want to, apply a coat of flat
white of flat gray paint as a primer.....
> MASKING
> - What's the best material to use to mask off a
> small area like a canopy? How about a large
> area?
I use Parafilm M, but there are pre-cut masks available. They are
kit-specific, and not available for every kit. The Parafilm works great for
me on canopies, but you can also use the frosty tape like Scotch Tape. For
large areas, I tend to use drafting tape. It isn't as tacky as masking
tape. You can also use Post-It notes.......
> - How long is it safe to leave a masking material
> on the model for? What if you want to apply
> several coats, do you have to remove the mask,
> let dry, then apply a new mask before the next
> coat of paint?
I leave the masks on throughout the painting / decalling / weathering /
finishing process. Parafilm hasn't given me any grief, but I understand
that the pre-cut canopy masks can leave a residue if left on for longer than
a week or two.
> - I've experimented a bit, using Tamiya's masking
> tape, and I've found that the edge of the paint
> where the masking tape was is very slightly raised.
> I guess this is due to paint accumulating at the
> edge of the masking material. Is there a way to
> avoid this? Should I just gently sand the edge
> of the paint down and apply a glosscote to it all?
Use less paint. Removing the tape soon after spraying helps. If it is dry,
try sanding with 1000 grit wet-or-dry paper....
> DECALING
> - I've read you should apply a coat of GlossCote
> before applying decals. How do you get rid of
> the shine after the decals are applied? Logic
> would dictate a coat of DullCote, but won't that
> ruin cockpit canopies? What will it do to silver
> painted surfaces, like landing gear and engines?
> What does it do to BareMetal Foil? If I apply
> the cotes with an airbrush, how do I clean the
> airbrush afterwards?
Leave the clear parts masked. Apply a flat clear--I use
Aeromaster/PollyScale or Gunze acrylic instead of Dulcote. On bare metal
finishes, you probably don't need to gloss, the surface should be smooth
enough. As for the small parts--landing gear, etc.--I usually don't worry
about them. It adds a degree or weathering. One exception--on landing gear
struts, the oleo (the shock-absorber part)should be shiny, almost
chrome-like.
Clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner for solvent based paint and alcohol
or Windex for acrylics.
> - What's the difference between Decal Setting
> Solution and Decal Solvent? When should you
> use each? How many coats should you apply?
> How long should you wait before applying another
> coat?
The Set goes under and the Sol goes over the decal. I use Solvaset, which
is quite powerful, so I usually dilute it a bit--the brush I use to apply it
first gets dipped in water. Anyway, apply a small amount of Set to the
model, position the decal, and wick off excess solution with the corner of a
paper towel. Let the decal sit a minute or two, make sure it is positioned
correctly, and dab (almost float) on a small amount of Sol. The decal will
start to wrinkle, but don't fret. Leave it alone overnight. Look at it
after it is dry, and attend to bubbles by poking them with a pin, and check
to see if the decal has snuggled into the panel detail. If not, apply more
Sol. It helps if the decals dry face up, so gravity can assist the process.
What that means for aircraft is spreading the decalling over four nights.
Also, test the decals first--some kit decals don't like setting solutions or
solvents.......
> - How do you get decals from the sheet onto the
> model without tearing them? Tweezers? A knife?
> Something else?
I use a brush. Use the paper backing sheet to move the decal to the model,
and apply a bit of the Set or water to the surface of the model. Place the
decal, backing and all, on the model, and slide the decal off the paper with
a soft brush.
> - What water temperature do you use? How long do
> you leave the decals to soak?
Warm, but not hot. I soak the decal for about 20 seconds, then let it sit
on a blotter made of a few paper towels folded up into a pad. Check it in
about 10 seconds. If it slides freely, it is ready. If not, soak it again
for a few seconds......
> WASHES
> - I've experimented with this, and I haven't had
> the same results as I've seen in the magazines.
> Their shadows always look so smooth, and gently
> transition to the light parts, but mine always
> seem to have a rather crisp edge where the wash
> ends. How do I get the soft, gradual colour
> transition?
My aircraft weathering techniques start with the paint job--I will first use
paint out of the bottle, and spray the model. Then, lighten the paint a
bit, and spray just the center of the panels on the airplane. This gets
tedious, so be patient! I also will mist some of the lighter color over the
entire surface to homogenize the colors. If you are doing a multi color
scheme, you need to do this with every color.....
Don't be afraid to experiment and practice!
> - What's the best brush to use?
I use an old brush that is past its prime as a detail brush.....
> - How much (if any) thinner do you mix with the
> paint to make a wash? Do you use a different
> mixing ratio depending on whether you're using
> glossy or dull paints?
I use Artist's oil paints straight from the tube. I first start by painting
the model, and applying a coat of Future floor finish (this is a great clear
gloss!). I apply decals, and when dry I wash off any residue from the
adhesive, setting solutions, etc. I apply two more coats of Future, and let
that dry overnight. Then I'll take the oil and slop it into the panel
lines. Let this set for a minute, then wipe it off with a paper towel ot
toilet tissue. If you have a stained area, use the slighteset (and I mean
slightest!) amount of odorless turps to clean it up.....
When the oils have dried (usually overnight, but check) I apply a coat or
two of acrylic flat clear.
> - I've read that you should always use gloss paints
> for washes anyway. True? Why?
I have heard that they flow better. I've not done this.....
> DRYBRUSHING
> - Any tips on this would be appreciated, as I just
> can't seem to get it right. :) I always end up
> with a dark model with glaringly bright silver
> blotches on the edges.
For paint chips, try this--paint the model first in an aluminum color, then
apply the color coats. When the color coats are dry, yuo can actually chip
the paint! Cool, no?
In fact, the aluminum color is a perfect primer--metal finishes tend to
highlight flaws......
>
> PAINTING
> This is the big section. :) I've already
> asked some paint questions above, but here
> are some more.
> - Storage: Where do you store your paints? Do
> you have a sewing box, tool box, or fishing
> tackle box or something? I've got a bit of
> a space issue (I'm in an apartment), and I'm
> presently just leaving the little bottles on
> the dining room table. My fiancee is not
> amused. :)
I have a large tackle box with a drawer large enough to hold all the paint
that I have accumulated. Shoe boxes work well, too.
And introduce your fiancee to the wonderful world of model building, and she
won't mind so much! :)
> So, what's my problem? The airbrush, the
> air supply, or something else? I'm not
> using any kind of regulator with the air
> cans, I'm just hooking the hose up to the
> can, putting some paint in the jar, and
> going. I think this year I'll invest in
> a real air compressor, but if you can give
> me some tips to get some use out of these
> cans without ruining my models, I'd appreciate
> it.
Well, air cans are like that. You'll also notice that as they run out, the
pressure drops off just as dramatically. Practice with them until you get
the compressor. Then you will have to practice some more.....
> - What's the "needle" of an airbrush?
Well, it is the thing that looks like a needle. Not trying to be a smart
ass......
Is the 270 the one that uses the same tips as the 470? If so, the needle is
inside the tip.......
> - When applying multiple coats of paint, how long
> do you wait? Do you apply a coat, then completely
> clean your airbrush while it dries, then come back
> a couple of days later for the next coat? Or do
> you just wait a few minutes and spray again?
Usually, if the paint is the right consistency, you can cover the moel, wait
a few minutes, and re-spray. Look and see if the paint still looks wet. If
it is, wait a bit more......
> - What's the best kind of paint to use? I have
> several of the little, square, glass containers
> of Testor's paints that I've been mixing in the
> glass jar that my airbrush uses. Should I instead
> be using the round glass jars, that look more like
> the jar that my air brush uses? Or those little
> round metal tin paints? Or does it really matter?
I love acrylics like Aeromaster/PollyScale, Tamiya, and Gunze......
If you like enamels, Flo-Quil and Aeromaster make some kick-ass paints.
Testor's Model Master line is good, too.
> - What do I use to thin paint with for my airbrush,
> keeping in mind that I've got the little glass
> square jars. Just regular enamal paint thinner?
In a word, yes. You can also use lacquer thinner. but it sometimes reacts
with the paint and turns it into goo.......
To be safe, use the brand's own thinner--if you use Testor's Model Master,
use the Testor's airbrush thinner. If you use acrylics, use the PollyScale
thinner or distilled water--Aeromaster and PollyScale thin and spray
beautifully when thinned with distilled water.
> - How do you mix paint with thinner
You can use a separate jar--I don't. I usually eyeball the mix, too--"the
consistency of milk" is an oft-quoted starting point. If you want to go the
eyedropper route, get a glass eyedropper and use it only for paint. Once
again, practise is the word to remember.
> - What do I do with leftover thinned paint?
> Does it keep?
I usually dispose of it, but if you keep it in its own jar, it shouldn't be
a problem. I have had paint go bad when I returned thinned paint to the
original jar, so don't return it to the original container.......
> - When you have a quick paint job (such as just
> needing to paint a silver bolt on landing gear),
> do you really dirty a real paint brush? For
> that 2-minute job? Or can you cheat and just
> use a toothpick or something?
Hey, if it works........but I'll use the brush.
> - How do you dispose of used brush cleaner and
> paint thinner? Surely you're not supposed to
> just pour it down the drain?
No. When I was using enamels, I kept a "dirty" thinner can and dumped the
stuff in that can. You should be able to find a suitable disposal center in
your neck of the woods.......look in the phone book for chemical disposal
centers.....
> - How do you paint the canopies of aircraft?
> When do you attach the canopy? Before you
> paint the model? If I mask it off and spray
> paint it, how long can I leave the mask on?
> Should I leave it on until I'm completely done
> the model, like, even after I've applied a coat
> of Future?
I attach mine before I paint. Leave the mask on until everything is done.
I usually remove the canopy masks last. Be aware, though, that some of the
pre-cut masks react with Future.......
Oh, and I use Formula 560 Canopy glue to attach canopies, landing gear and
small parts. It is a sort of white glue, but it is stronger than Elmer's
Glue-All.....
> - How do you mask off landing gear bays
I usually mask around the wells and paint them after the paint job is
done.......
> - If I want to practice airbrushing, what kind
> of paint should I use? Is there something
> cheap, for this purpose? How long will these
> 2 cans of air last?
Use the same paint as you would use on the model. And use old models as
test subjects--paper absorbs excess paint, while plastic does not. This
way, you can see if the paint is too thin and will run.......
> GENERAL
> - I've also started using the instant glue
> and accelerator. I like the results, but
> it strikes me as very messy. I mean, when
> I spray the accelerator, I get quite a wide
> mist, when I really only need it on a small
> area. Is there a neater way to apply the
> accelerator?
Microbrushes. I rarely use ACC and accelerator, though.
> - Future. I bought some, now how, when, and
> why do I use it? :) How do I clean my
> airbrush after applying it? Do I just apply
> one coat? Do I have to "buff" it or anything?
> Will it make things glossy that I don't want
> to be glossy? Will it dull the things I *do*
> want to be glossy?
I thin it with isopropyl alcohol when I airbrush it. Clean the airbrush
with Windex. I don't apply to to bare metal finishes, but it is supposed to
work well for that. You can also apply Future with a Q-Tip, too......
> - I've got a model of a battle tank from Star
> Wars, The Phantom Menace. I would really like
> to do a good job of it, so should I paint it
> assembled or unassembled? How do you decide?
Are there a lot of visible seams? If so, I'd assemble it first, fill and
sand, maybe prime, and then paint.........
>
> Whew! Well, I think that's it.
Whew, indeed!
Kevin, I suppose that you have by now read the FAQ, so most of this should
look familiar to you.
One other suggestion that I'd like to make is that you search out a club
near you, whether it be IPMS, AMPS, or just a group of people that build
models. You will be surprised what you will learn at a club meeting........
These methods are what works for me, and (as Mike said earlier), you need to
build models and try different techniques until you find what works for you.
If you have any other questions, just ask. We're here to help! (Oops,
sorry, that's the FAA! Too much work this week.......) :)
Cheers, and happy building........
--
Ralph Nardone
Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
IPMS (USA) Flight 19 Chapter
Richard Marmo
You've gotten a slew of answers from some excellent modelers. By now
you're probably suffering from information overload. And you've also
discovered that not only does what works for one doesn't work for the
next, but everyone has a favorite method that violates every rule in the
book. In other words, just because conventional wisdom says it can't be
done that way, don't think that it's written in stone. I hate to think
of how many times I've solved a modeling problem by using a technique
that was supposed to be impossible. I didn't know it was impossible, so
I did it anyway. Keep in mind the story of the bumblebee. According to
all laws of aerodynamics, it's physically impossible for the bumblebee
to fly. The bumblebee, not knowing this, flies anyway.
Just remember that no matter how much you read or how many modelers
describe methods or techniques to you, in the end it comes down to three
things. Mistakes, practice and experience.
There's no substitute for just getting in there and doing it. Mistakes
are a necessary part of the process. If you don't make mistakes, you'll
never learn. Practice is never ending. Every time you try something you
haven't tried before, you're practicing. And, ultimately, all that
accumulated experience...which is the sum total of every model you've
ever built...will enable you to attain a level of skill and quality that
you thought you'd never reach.
Keep asking questions. We're all glad to help.
Richard Marmo, IPMS/USA #2
JOHN BOYER
Kevin wrote:
>
> - What's the best material to use to mask off a
> small area like a canopy? How about a large
> area?
I use Microscale MicroMask (i think that's right) it's a latex thing you
paint on to the canopies. Go to your hobby shop and ask if they have
any of "the masking stuff that is like paint on latex" and they should
have something for you. Make sure you wash the canopy part(s) in warm
water and dish soap before applying.
after it dries you can use an xacto to cut out the parts that you want
to be unmasked.
> - How long is it safe to leave a masking material
> on the model for? What if you want to apply
> several coats, do you have to remove the mask,
> let dry, then apply a new mask before the next
> coat of paint?
after you have started painting, you will need to reapply this type of
masking about every three coats, otherwise the paint will be thick
enough that it will peel off with the masking stuff which you don't want
to happen.