Custom Decals
Zack
Could somebody please post step by step instructions for printing custom
decals. I have an HP ink jet printer/scanner and plenty of art work, but I
can't get good decals. Some of my problems include:
-- faded black color after printing
-- all of the ink runs off the paper when placed in water
-- point or dotted effect when printing solid colors or fields
I have not had a successful print yet. When I ask at the local hobby shop I
get a different answer every time. I have two different brands of paper and
plenty of MicroScale liquid decal film and Microset and Microsol. I have
lots of old models I'm trying to rebuild/restore but I will need lots of new
decals to make them right.
Thanks guys
Zack
...of course I'm serious, and stop calling me Shirley.
Bluepen
Crystal Clear. They have a number of different papers for sale, some
for laser, some for inkjet.
The steps are: print to regular paper as a proof. Once you have what
you want, print to Injet Decal paper.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82859
This is the try-it pack with the spray included.
I print to a corner of the paper and cut it across so I do not waste a
whoe sheet, then let it dry at least an hour. Spray lightly with the
Krylon Crystal Clear and let that dry. Spray one more time, again,
lightly. With out this the ink will come off.
Once usually works, but two very thin coats seem to work well, too.
Cut, soak and apply like any decals.
As for fading of black, I have never had this problem with my HP at
all. What paper are you using.
I found the Testors paper to be crap... Micro Mark's is much better
and not expensive.
Hope this helps.
Lance
On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 11:55:19 -0400, "Zack" <zdil...@comcast.net>
wrote:
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Okay, here are answers to the specific questions, and then some
alternatives.
1. Does your printer have a seperate black cartridge, or make black
from a combination of colors/
2. The decals MUST be overcoated after printing. Some recommend a
special coating. I just use Testors clearcoats- gloss or matt clear
depending on the decal use.
3. This is MY big problem. I have yet to find a brand of inkjet
paper that works with my printer. I also get that reticulation.
What I have been doing is printing out the design on regular paper,
then taking the printout and a sheet of laser print paper to a copy
shop. Used to work great, but the shop has recently installed a
higher speed copy machine that uses a real hot platen- which wrinkles
and destroys the paper. I am looking around for another copy shop
with a slower copier.
I did buy my own black and white laser, and it works fine for black
decals. With the price of color lasers dropping below $250 bucks,
that looks attractive.
Some folks do get good inkjet printing. I have a Canon printer, and
have yet to find a decal paper that works with it. My wife has an
Epson- my next step is to try inkjet decal paper on HER printer- I'll
let folks know the result.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Okay, here are answers to the specific questions, and then some
Rob van Riel
> -- point or dotted effect when printing solid colors or fields
I think what you're seeing might be dithering, the trick used by printers
(both the devices and the people) to create different colours from a set
of base inks. The trick is to not so much mix inks, as to print pixels of
one colour intermixed with pixels of another to trick the eye into doing
the mixing itself. Take a good look with a magnifying glass at any piece
of glossy junkmail, and you'll what I mean.
Rob
Rob de Bie
says...
If you already have good artwork, I would advise you to have some Alps decals
printed, the see their excellent quality for yourself. I have a page on how to
prepare your artwork, and it has a list of custom printers:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/models/decals.htm
It's probably intimidating at first, but from experience I can tell it's worth
it!
Rob
My models: www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/models.htm
Me 163B site: www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/me163.htm
AQM-34 site: www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/aqm34.htm
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Some of us see something other than the dithering. You do not even
need a magnifying glass. You know how mud cracks when it dries? This
is that sort of pattern- like the ink was shrinking slightly as it
dries, and cracking. Remember the old "wrinkle" finish on military
avionics and electronics? It is sort of like that.
Bruce Apple
The thought just occurred to me that part of your problems with printing
decals might be the format in which the artwork is saved or created in the
first place. The artwork should be saved in a non-lossey format, such as
.TIF or Bitmat instead of .jpg or JPEG. JPEG uses a compression technique
that produces an image that can be sent over the internet without it being a
huge file; for example the same image might be saved as 1 meg in TIF, but
450 Kb in jpg format. The computer dithers in the compressed bits to
reconstitute the image...your eye can't tell and the resolution on your
monitor can't tell either, but when you go to print the image, your printer
can't make up the difference which is why the image may look grainy or
"pixelated" when enlarged. The same condition may be present if you try to
project the image in jpeg format when TIF or Bitmat wouled be appropriate.
The drawback is that you have an enormous file rather than a smaller
compressed file. Some photo editing programs will ask you about saving an
image in a lossey type format, or do you want to compress the imaage for
sending as an email attachment.
I sent this to you instead of sending to the group as it's a long answer.
So to cut to the chase, try printing in the highest resolution you
can....set the printer to hightest resolution and save your artwork as a TIF
image or Bitmap and or set your digital camera to create the highest
resolution the camera is capable of generating. What you want is the most
pixels or dots per inch you can cram into a given space.
I hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Bruce
"Rob de Bie" <robd...@xs4all.nl> wrote in message
news:4624b39d$0$79139$e4fe...@news.xs4all.nl...
Zack
and will go get the Krylon if it will make a difference. I have tried two
diff papers, one was probably a generic brand (unknown name), and I think
the other most recent attempt was with Bare Metal brand. (I could be wrong
about that) I have tried the paper by just printing with a not so great
image. I then tried to coat the paper and then print, but this caused the
"pixeling" effect. This is my third attempt at printing my own stuff and
still having a hard time with it. The first batch (generic paper) had two
or three sets of instructions and they all contradicted each other, so I
could have done it all wrong.
Thanks for the reply.
Zack
"Bluepen" <lme...@kpunet.net> wrote in message
news:g16523p3rrq65oasq...@4ax.com...
Zack
> alternatives.
>
> 1. Does your printer have a seperate black cartridge, or make black
> from a combination of colors/
I have a seperate black in well, and a color well.
> 2. The decals MUST be overcoated after printing. Some recommend a
> special coating. I just use Testors clearcoats- gloss or matt clear
> depending on the decal use.
I always apply the decals to a gloss surface. Does that determine the
overcoat choice?
> 3. This is MY big problem. I have yet to find a brand of inkjet
> paper that works with my printer. I also get that reticulation.
>
> What I have been doing is printing out the design on regular paper,
> then taking the printout and a sheet of laser print paper to a copy
> shop. Used to work great, but the shop has recently installed a
> higher speed copy machine that uses a real hot platen- which wrinkles
> and destroys the paper. I am looking around for another copy shop
> with a slower copier.
I understood that some print shops won't print on decal film because it will
"gunk up" their printers. Have you had this problem?
> I did buy my own black and white laser, and it works fine for black
> decals. With the price of color lasers dropping below $250 bucks,
> that looks attractive.
Most of the decals I need are black or gray. Some color would be nice for
nose art and sqaud logos. I'm that guy who hates to chase around looking,
ordering, (oops those are no longer available), more looking, and finaly
giving up. Especially when I have no trouble making the artwork and sizing
it corectly. I do most of the art work in AutoCad. It gives me very crisp
lines and it's easy to get the sizes exact.
> Some folks do get good inkjet printing. I have a Canon printer, and
> have yet to find a decal paper that works with it. My wife has an
> Epson- my next step is to try inkjet decal paper on HER printer- I'll
> let folks know the result.
I have always made sure I bought the inkjet paper not laser paper.
Thanks for the helpful reply
Zack
Zack
mixing the colors but most of what I've tried was solid black lettering and
Star and Bars.
Thanks
Zack
"Don Stauffer in Minnesota" <stau...@usfamily.net> wrote in message
news:1176815749....@b75g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Zack
is US AIR FORCE, star and bars, and general letters and numbers.
I will check out the page you listed.
Thanks
Zack
Rob de Bie
says...
>
>
>I have been using AutoCad to make the artwork. Most of what I'm doing now
>is US AIR FORCE, star and bars, and general letters and numbers.
>
>I will check out the page you listed.
You have your artwork as vector graphics, that is a very good starting point!
Most people have bitmap graphics artwork, which (in my opinion) is much less
suited for optimum quality.
Most custom printers use CorelDraw or Illustrator, I use the former. I just
checked, and CorelDraw seems to be able to import AutoCad files. I could
check it for you if you send me a sample file.
If you want to 'convert' to CorelDraw for your decals, look around to buy an
old version cheap, you don't need the latest version at all. I think you can
have versions 7, 8 or 9 or 10-20 dollars. Be sure to check compatibility with
your operating system.
Zack
use it efficiently. I think your correct, I've used Corel to change AutoCad
.dwg's for posting of artwork. I started working with AutoCad in Drafting I
my freshman year of high school and got really fast with it. Now, for me,
it's just easier to use.
Zack
"Rob de Bie" <robd...@xs4all.nl> wrote in message
news:4625be54$0$329$e4fe...@news.xs4all.nl...
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
> I have Corel Draw 8 and Photo Paint 8, but I don't have the experience to
> use it efficiently. I think your correct, I've used Corel to change AutoCad
> .dwg's for posting of artwork. I started working with AutoCad in Drafting I
> my freshman year of high school and got really fast with it. Now, for me,
> it's just easier to use.
>
> Zack
>
Pro).
CAD allows more accurate sizing, but not shading of colors. I use the
paint program when I need fancier artwork that has shading of colors.
Rob de Bie
says...
>
>
>I have Corel Draw 8 and Photo Paint 8, but I don't have the experience to
>use it efficiently. I think your correct, I've used Corel to change AutoCad
>.dwg's for posting of artwork. I started working with AutoCad in Drafting I
>my freshman year of high school and got really fast with it. Now, for me,
>it's just easier to use.
It sounds to me like you're ready to go! CorelDraw takes some getting used to,
but in your case you can do the design in AutoCad and prepare the printing in
CorelDraw.
I am confident you will be happy with decals printed on an Alps. The only
drawback is that you need to stick to 'spot color printing' for the best
result, and it that mode your color palette is limited. I would try to find a
custom printer that uses both CMYK and RGB cartridges, which gives you a
reasonable palette. With these cartridges you can for example find decent
matches for a full-color US stars & bars.
Peter W.
wrote:
Well, programs like Corel Draw, Adobe Illustrator and several others
give you best of both. Vector based (accurate and scalable) drawings
with full color shading capabilities. And you can also intermix
bitmaps with vectors if you so desire.
Peteski
veritas
wrote:
Do you(or anyone else) think it is possible to get a camouflage
pattern like this on a model ? If so how would you do it ?
see here :
http://www.hyperstealth.com/supersonic/F-16-KA2-Desert-60-95-76deg.jpg
The Old Man
> On Tue, 17 Apr 2007 13:47:14 +0200, Rob de Bie <robde...@xs4all.nl>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >In article <YVrUh.465119$BK1.152...@newsfe13.lga>, zdilli...@comcast.net
>
> - Show quoted text -
It ~seems~ to be digitized, so I'd say, yes it could be duplicated.
But as to how I'd do it? Not sure but definately very carefully.
I do know some guys that made German lozenge camo onto decal sheets.
Zack
a long time ago. As far as the digital effect you should look at a product
called "Duracoat". It's a finish used in the gun world to get custom camo
and colors. This system has the stencils and patterns for applying a
digital camo to guns to match the given theatre. I wouldn't use the
Duracoat to actually paint the model but I've seen the guns painted in the
digital pattern and it really looks factory.
http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/
--
...of course I'm serious, and stop calling me Shirley.
"veritas" <veritas@coming_soon.com> wrote in message
news:1819731qjme1jhd57...@4ax.com...
Stewart Schooley
> Do you(or anyone else) think it is possible to get a camouflage
> pattern like this on a model ? If so how would you do it ?
Here's what I'd try;
Hand paint it. Use acrylic paints and put the lightest color on first as
the base coat. Spray it on if you can. Hand paint the other colors
working toward the darkest.
For spraying, you could use an exacto knife to cut out templates for all
the colors.
It is important that you use cheaper artist's acrylic paints like the Jo
Sanjo brand. These are basically tempera colors with a little acrylic
emulsion added to provide better stickum. They thin easily and brush out
evenly.
Working with the better grade artist's acrylic paints in tubes is a
PITA. You have to stir, stir, stir, and stir some more to get a
brushable even coat.
An alternative to this would be to buy better grade tempera paint that
has finer ground pigments and add some Future to provide the stickum and
smooth flowing.
If you're near an art supply store, buy one tube and try it out.
Stewart
Stewart Schooley
First of all, the paint I mentioned is Jo Sonja, not Sanjo.
After my post I got to thinking and I decided to do some tests. Despite
all the experience I've had with all kinds of materials doing my own art
work and in my 33 years teaching art, my hobby modeling has been with
balsa. Maybe, I thought, I might be jumping the gun about plastic models.
I did the tests on at least a dozen kinds of plastic and found that for
best results using the cheaper acrylic, it should be sprayed on and it
is best to spray it over Future. Whether it provides a real economic
advantage or not is up to you to decide because I don't know what you're
paying for paints.
The good news is that when you play around testing materials, something
good always comes out of it. I found out that Future make a good base
coat for painting on hard smooth surfaces. This is an asset for me in my
radio hobby.
Take a look at this radio cabinet. It is a 1937 Philco that was covered
with the notorious "photofinish" which was a photo print that over the
years rots and takes the lacquer finish with it. I have filled in these
areas on one side prior to painting. I will cover these areas with
Future, start the painting with acrylic paints and do the final colors
and details with oil paint.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6h41xcn
I'm doing one side only and will get a scan of this and then a reverse
scan. I'll butt them together and my radio will have a new photo print
on it. Best of all, I'll make the image available free to all the radio
groups.
Here are before and after photos of my work in this area . It is all
hand painting and I am pretty good at this. That isn't bragging because
I am like every one of you. I can take a couple minutes telling you what
I'm good at and a couple hours telling you what I'm not good at.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4xonq6w
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6behbte
Stewart