armor question
Stephen Tontoni
Barnes and Noble or something.
There are pictures of tanks in there for which I've never seen a 1/35
kit; A9 and A13 cruiser tanks, and Italian Tankettes (not M13/40 or
Semoventes).
Question to treadheads out there; what's availability on those?
One other thing that I thought was cool; there are some really clear
pictures of weathering of tanks in the desert. They were light from
blowing dust in areas that I normally see weathering dark. For example
around rivets; there's a light ring around each rivet rather than dark
grunge in there. The effect is interesting and I'm surprised I don't
see that in models more often.
--
Tontoni
Kurt Laughlin
"Stephen Tontoni" <ton...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> There are pictures of tanks in there for which I've never seen a 1/35
> kit; A9 and A13 cruiser tanks, and Italian Tankettes (not M13/40 or
> Semoventes).
>
> Question to treadheads out there; what's availability on those?
Resin only. The British stuff is from Accurate Armour or Cromwell (or both)
and the Italian. . . maybe Cri.el?
KL
Lafimprov
tanks are quite recent releases from Cromwell, and should still be available
now. The Cri-El Italian tankette was about ten years ago IIRC, and I don't know
if it is still around. The tracks were kinda chunky on the review version I
saw.
As for the correct weathering of desert tanks (or any tank operating in
light-clored soil), you're right, it is rare. In magazine articles, only Vasko
Barbic makes a real attempt to depict it. Everyone else is content to show a
filthy dark dirt on the tank, while plonking it onto a desert terrain base
which is nearly white. One of my pet peeves.
Gerald Owens
Tomislav Martan
year) which is available from Squadron for some 20 and so US$.
Italian M13/40 was also packed in Italeri box, ad was made by Zvezda. I'm
not sure if it is currently in production.
--
9A4Tc
Treadhead
> <snip>
> As for the correct weathering of desert tanks (or any tank operating in
> light-clored soil), you're right, it is rare. In magazine articles, only Vasko
> Barbic makes a real attempt to depict it. Everyone else is content to show a
> filthy dark dirt on the tank, while plonking it onto a desert terrain base
> which is nearly white. One of my pet peeves.
> Gerald Owens
You are right Gerald. I've tried dark preshading and washes of satin black around
the engine vents and then over spray with the ground material to build up the local
dirt, but never got it spot on.
As an IPMS judge I've lost count of the indignant cries raised by kit assemblers
who can't see why a weathered model in a diorama is better than their pristine
example.
Keep spreading the word about weathering..!
Hob Danderfluff (howard....@bt.com)
Never let a computer know you're in a hurry.
This post represents the views of the author and does
not necessarily accurately represent the views of BT.
Steve B
trying to accomplish? A representation of something the modeler is
interested in or modeling a point in time and space that the subject
could have occupied.
If I wanted a model of my M901 and did it "PRISTINE" it would be
correct. I could also do it filthy and that would also be correct.
I think you are showing a prejudice that a judge should have during a
competition.
SB
On Mon, 14 Jan 2002 08:53:26 +0000, Treadhead <trea...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
Treadhead
> I'd have to disagree with you on weathering. What is the modeler
> trying to accomplish? A representation of something the modeler is
> interested in or modeling a point in time and space that the subject
> could have occupied.
>
> If I wanted a model of my M901 and did it "PRISTINE" it would be
> correct. I could also do it filthy and that would also be correct.
>
> I think you are showing a prejudice that a judge should have during a
> competition.
>
> <snip>
I take your point Steve, but in a diorama showing dusty conditions or Russian mud, a
pristine model looks wrong. Your M109 would be pristine on a parade ground setting, and
I'd judge it as such. I'd expect the vehicle to show some evidence of its surroundings
if it was in the field. Now, a single model on a polished wooden base is a different
beastie. I'd be looking for technical excellence in modelling the look of the vehicle,
but I must admit that I DO lean to a slightly used look.
The only solution is to look at loads of the real thing. I was lucky enough to see the
BDRMs etc. that were brought back to Bovington Tank Museum from Kuwait after the Gulf
war - which was in a desert. I was surprised to see how water washed the whole thing
was, and the amount of river gravel still in the tyres, and on the running boards. And
the thick black cheese made of diesel and general burning that was coming out of the
engine vents after the motor blew. I'd never have modelled this but it is correct...
Treadhead
"Do not quench your inspiration and your imagination. Do not become the slave of your
model" - Vincent Van Gogh
Howard Freeman IPMS(UK) 9169
trea...@hotmail.com
Ron Smith
of water color and pastel.
Stephen Tontoni
that company here, but then I'm fairly new to armor. Resin in armor, by
the way, more or less means lots and lots of money, doesn't it? Hmmmm
I'll also do a google search on Vasko Barbic too to see what kind of
stuff he has out there.
Thanks for the information!
In article <3C436372...@dalhraidia.org>, Ron Smith
<ron-half...@dalhraidia.org> wrote:
--
Tontoni
Lafimprov
that company here, but then I'm fairly new to armor.
Resin in armor, by
the way, more or less means lots and lots of money, doesn't it? Hmmmm >>
Cromwell and Accurate Armour are the two biggest resin producers in Britain,
and their work is generally top notch. Kits made in the US are usually
reasonable, but the imported kits tend to be pricey--Accurate Armour and
Cromwell are usually in the $100-$200 range. Ouch! But if you want them, you
could try VLS or Squadron. Or you can check their ads in Military Modelling and
order direct from them in the UK.
Gerald Owens