Painting plastic "wood" floors
tshr...@my-dejanews.com
This might be helpful to someone, so I thought I would mention it: If
you're trying to achieve a shiny wood floor appearance on the plastic
sheets with the simulated wood scribing, I had good results using
Floquil's Rust color thinned down to about half strength. I applied it
with a 1/2 inch brush.
The overall effect is that similar to either a gymnasium floor, or some
other wood floor that would have a lot of wax or polish applied to it.
Obviously this has limited uses, but I thought someone might find it
helpful.
Thanks.
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/ Now offering spam-free web-based newsreading
john a dalton
tshr...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
>This might be helpful to someone, so I thought I would mention it: If
>you're trying to achieve a shiny wood floor appearance on the plastic
>sheets with the simulated wood scribing, I had good results using
>Floquil's Rust color thinned down to about half strength. I applied it
>with a 1/2 inch brush.
>The overall effect is that similar to either a gymnasium floor, or some
>other wood floor that would have a lot of wax or polish applied to it.
>Obviously this has limited uses, but I thought someone might find it
>helpful.
>
>Thanks.
...what did you use to thin the paint with ?..
....thanks...big john... :))
John Sheridan
tshr...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
>
> This might be helpful to someone, so I thought I would mention it: If
> you're trying to achieve a shiny wood floor appearance on the plastic
> sheets with the simulated wood scribing, I had good results using
> Floquil's Rust color thinned down to about half strength. I applied it
> with a 1/2 inch brush.
> The overall effect is that similar to either a gymnasium floor, or some
> other wood floor that would have a lot of wax or polish applied to it.
> Obviously this has limited uses, but I thought someone might find it
> helpful.
>
I got a great method from the ship modeling guys. Here is the text used
to get a really good looking teak deck on a plastic/resin warship model:
**********************************************************************************************************
PAINTING WOODEN DECKS: Painting plastic decks to appear like wood has
long been a
challenge to modelers. I've tried a number of methods over the years
with vatying degrees of success. Here's
an easy technique I used on both of my 1/429 scale Revell Arizona kits
with satisfying results: First, the
paints you'll need are sold at model railroad shops. Three colors are
all that's necessary. All three are made
by Floquil, the same firm that produces the excellent series of Marine
Colors now in vogue among plastic
ship modelers.
One of the three colors is a paint, the other two are from Floquil's
range of model "stains". They are: 1.
"Mud" (a model railroad weathering paint), 2. "Driftwood" (a light gray
stain), and 3. "Walnut" (a
brown stain.) The entire process can be boiled down to four simple
steps:
1. Airbrush the deck with Mud.
2. Streak the deck with Driftwood.
3. Streak the deck with Walnut.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary.
This method is, fortunately, very simple and very forgiving. First one
must airbrush the deck with Mud and
allow it to dry at least 24 hours. In fact, this will be the very first
color painted on the entire model - the
grays, blacks, and other colors come after the deck has been prepared
first. Once the Mud paint has dried,
select your smallest tipped brush and open the bottle of Driftwood. You
then dip the brush into the stain
and then wipe the tip of the brush lightly over a paper towel until only
a small amount of wet stain remains in
the bristles. Now use the brush to streak the stain in narrow strips
lengthwise along the deck (or parallel to
the planking). Use random strokes until the deck is evenly streaked over
is entire surface. When finished (the
stain dries very quickly), open the Walnut stain and repeat this step.
If the deck appears too dark, repeat
the streaking process with the Driftwood until the deck starts to
lighten up. If you want the deck to return
more to the shade of the Mud paint, streak the deck with Mud in the same
manner as the stain. By
alternating back and forth between these three colors, you'll find you
have great control over the final
appearance of the model's wooden decks. And so long as you keep the
stains and paint nicely thinned, there
will be no visible buildup of pigment to obscure detail. And remember to
keep the brush strokes about the
width of a plank, or no more than two planks.
Some advantages of this technique: A. no great artisitic skill is
necessary, only the ability to apply random
paint streaks in parallel lines; B. a damaged area can easily be blended
into the rest of the deck by applying
more strokes in alternating colors as above; C. the process goes quickly
- one Arizona model had its deck
fully painted and streaked in about an hour (after the original Mud
application had dried, of course.) A tip:
purchase an inexpensive kit to use as your "guinea pig". Use this kit's
parts to test your technique and refine it
before you move onto your main project. You'll find, as I did, that the
final appearance of your model's
planked deck looks exceptionally convincing, both in photographs and to
the viewer seeing it on display.
**********************************************************************************************************
I have used this technique on several ship models and a couple of Red
Caboose flatcars. The method works extremely well and give excellent
results
--
John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals
http://www.microscale.com
If I'm talking Decals, then i'm talking for Microscale,
Otherwise I am speaking for myself.
What I do to Spammers: http://microscale.com/images/N2.jpg
I am not a Member of the Lumber Cartel (tinlc) and I am not Unit #631
Fight Spam! Join CAUCE! http://www.cauce.org