[HO] Canvas tarp
Mark Mathu
materials and methods to use to make the tarp?
My gut feeling is to use a few bits of wood or styrene underneath to give the
load some shape, cover it with a piece of tissue paper, and then somehow
dribble diluted white glue onto the tissue paper to make it hold its shape.
But before I attempt anything I thought I'd check with rec.models.railroad to
see if there is a an already-established method for doing this.
--
Mark
TDC Loki
modeling piggyback trailers. One of these is a canvas-covered trailer.
They used heavy-duty aluminum foil for the canvas. No need to put anything
underneath. If you need pictures let me know.
Karl
"Mark Mathu" <ma...@mathu.com> wrote in message
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Greg Halpin
model paint right out of the bottle, which both colors the tarp and stiffens the
paper when it dries. Just touch the brush against the paper and allow it to soak
in and then move to the next spot, etc.
Fred Dabney
Close. I'd assemble some odds and ends, cover them with
as you suggest, tissue but I'd use flat clear paint such as
Dullcote or the like. If you build it up enough you can
peel it off the base and reuse it for another load. The shell
can be painted light tan with a flat finish, or shiny bright
blue to represent some of the newer plasticized tarps.
I've also used plastic garbage bags wrapped around
wood blocks to make bundled wood load for bulkhead
flats. I used vinyl striping tape for the bands.
I have seen one commercial "tarp covered" load that
obviously used a "Scotch Tape" dispenser for the
base...
Fred D.
Steve Lynch
create the tarp look on a army truck. Get it the shape you want and paint
desert tan for example as I did:
http://www.nyandw.com/images/halfton.jpg
A couple square feet for a $1-2 last a lifetime.
--
Steve Lynch
www.NYandW.com
"Fred Dabney" <fda...@zianet.com> wrote in message
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Mark Mathu
> The 8/2001 issue of Model Railroader has an article on page 60 about
> modeling piggyback trailers. One of these is a canvas-covered trailer.
> They used heavy-duty aluminum foil for the canvas. No need to put anything
> underneath. If you need pictures let me know.
Thanks, I've got the issue. I'll look it up.
Roe Thomas
water, move about it you get the desired shape or sag. To dry just put on a top
shelf over night, then paint the nextt day. Have done it both ways, both work
nicely. Roe
Dirty Angel
tissue and it will shrink and be tight as a drum. Dope is a stinky lacquer
used for model and real airplanes. You buy it at the same time as the paer.
Happy railroading from the U&I rr in Central NY
PS....I'm having fun!!
"Steve Lynch" <sly...@i-2000.com> wrote in message
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Joe Ellis
<ma...@mathu.com> wrote:
Your gut feeling is good, but stay away from the white glue - it gets
brittle and yellows.
I've gotten great results in N scale by using various Plastruct and/or
Evergreen beams for the basic form of the load, then using ACC to attach
craft beads and other shapes to "detail" the shape.
Then I glue on some bits of dimensional lumber colored with a Pantone art
marker to form skids/cushioning/spacer beams. Fine fly-tying thread is
then worked over and around the beams and load to simulate tie-downs. (Fly
tying thread can be purchased from most fly fishing shops, and is NOT
"fuzzy" like sewing thread.)
The tarp covering is done with a single layer of facial tissue, and
attached with acrylic matte medium. The facial tissue (eg. Kleenex) has
_texture_, which foil and model airplane silkspan tissue lack. I start at
a high point, brushing the matte medium onto the tissue and letting is
soak through, and work my way along the top of the load, then down the
ends and sides, folding and draping the tarp with the brush as I go.
Once the load is completely covered and dry (which usually takes less than
15 minutes - gotta love acrylics!), I do any trimming necessary on the
tarp, and give it a base coat of "tarp color", usually dark gray, dark
green, or dark brown. Then I mix some of the base color in with a glop of
white and dry-brush the tarp, bringing out the texture. Next is a wash of
grimy black, adding even more depth. Finally, a last _very_ dry brushing
with a pure ivory color over just the folds and top surfaces to make them
"pop".
The order of the painting _is_ important. The wash after the first
drybrushing tones it down and makes it more subtle, and the final
drybrushing emphasizes the dimensional nature of the tarp and load without
overdoing the texture.
A photo of a turbine load I made for a 32 wheel depressed center flat is at:
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/nscalekitbashing?ge&.alabel=alb3&.pindex=18
This shows the load before the tarp was added. The turbine is made from a
craft store miniature wooden flower pot and a wooden miniature Christmas
tree light bulb.
This photo:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pfmsig/files/Bethlehem-Ares%20Railroad/MegaFlat_03.jpg
shows the load on the finished flat car with the tarp in place.
The model airplane tissue (silkspan) probably _would_ be good to simulate
plastic shrink-wrap... but then you could always use _real_ shrink-wrap,
too, and paint it as appropriate.
--
Joe Ellis
Joe Onorato
seen are blue, in deference to today's common blue plastic tarps, but a little
paint would fix that.
If you want to make them yourself, I suggest using a small square of silk used to
cover model airplanes. It would give about the right texture for the cloth.
JMO