Craftsman Kit weathering
Ian Smith
wondering if anyone knows of a web site that might offer me so ideas on how
to weather the timber to look typical of an old logging sawmill.Thanks for
your help in advance
Ian
Steve
wrote:
Can't help with a site, but can post some things to consider.
Firstly, what does an "old saw mill" look like? It could be in heavy
daily use, or just about dead. It could be in any one of a number of
climate zones, let alone different countries, all of which will
weather the structure differently. Get a distinct sense of place for
your mill, then start looking through the appropriate resources for
mill photo's that are in reasonable colour.
Now lookat the mill with the eye of an artist, for want of a better
term. Is the timber it is constructed of "grey", or "grey with streaks
of light fopundation/buff colour contrasted by the darkness of splits
in the timber or where rust from old iron fixtures has stained it".
Use this approach for all the parts of the building - roof, walls,
surrounding ground, etc. From my viewpoint, I have seen lots of
really well built models that have been devalued by having the "paint
by numbers" approach used. If you spend as much time staining/painting
as you did building that beautiful model, you won't be far wrong.
Steve
(who has just "discovered" craftsman - for want of a better term -
kits, and who adheres to an old English loco builders maxim: a coat of
paint hides a multitude of tins)
Ian Smith
, i plan to do the boards slightly different colours and then a type of
blacky color to represent old weather wood particuary at the bottom of the
boards to represent rain splashing mudd onto the building and in non traffic
areas where the floor would be not worn down by workers.
Do you have any suggestions on how to do this , should i airbrush it on on
smudge some black chaulk maybe?
Thanks
Ian
Steve <sjm...@yahoo.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:3d8fe3cd...@news.optusnet.com.au...
Steve
wrote:
>Thanks for the info , i have found some ideas of what i want it to look like
>, i plan to do the boards slightly different colours and then a type of
>blacky color to represent old weather wood particuary at the bottom of the
>boards to represent rain splashing mudd onto the building and in non traffic
>areas where the floor would be not worn down by workers.
>
>Do you have any suggestions on how to do this , should i airbrush it on on
>smudge some black chaulk maybe?
>
>Thanks
>
>Ian
>
>
Either would be fine, I would use both on a test piece, then probably
use 'em both on the model. :-) BTW, I wouldn't overlook dry brushing,
either - VERY dry brushing, using different colours for different
effects.
On a recent lean-to structure (Kapler lumber, I think, with self
adhesive corrugated iron roof) I started by knowing that it, indeed
the whole layout, was located in a temperate climate area, so the
sun-baked grey wood look wasn't appropriate. I stained it with an
unshaken Floquil driftwood stain - help, I've nearly run out and they
don't make it any more! - then dipped the brush back into the bottle,
sometimes picking up the goop at the bottom, sometimes just a bit more
coloured thinner, and smeared that around in various spots, trying to
avoid the painted look. If it was too coloured, I immediately washed
it with the thinning agent from the top of the bottle.
Then I used some heavily thinned Walnut stain (local hardware shop,
small tin that was poured unshaken into a small jar to about 1/4 the
way up, then topped up to the 3/4 mark with general purpose thinner.
Don't shake it) Leave it stand for a while, then you have several
levels you can dip your brush to for different coverage. Start with
the thinned stuff at the top of the bottle, stain the timbers with
this as well. Every so often, dip the brush down to the bottom and
pick up some extra colour and spread this on. When it looks like old
but in use wood, then let it dry. I then VERY dry brushed Foundation
or SP Lettering Grey on parts to highlight the top of the grain. See
below about VERY dry brushing.
Now, where ever iron things are rested against or driven into it
outside - chains, nails, Grandt line NBW castings, etc, you will need
to put rust streaks. For a good effect, mix some Floquil Roof Brown
with Old Silver (half and half, not sure of what ratio I used). Then
using your 000 brush, add the rust streaks. Very lightly, I might add.
Just a little.
For the corrugated iron roof I left the air brush in the garage. On an
offcut of 4 x 1 timber, I poured half a capfull - note CAPfull, not
CUPfull) of Floquil Reefer Grey onto the timber. Next to it I poured
the same measure of Old Silver, so the puddles overlapped. Using a
1/4" brush, I muddied the two colours a bit where they joined, then
painted the iron. Occasionally, I'd take more silver, sometimes more
grey to break up the uniformity of colour.
When this was dry, I used the same pouring trick on a different bit of
the timber but this time using some other Floquil - Reefer Orange and
Roof Brown. The bit where they join is mixed a little to vary the
colour. With an old flanellette pillow case over my shoulder I dipped
the tip of the rush in the mix, then wiped it on the rag until no
paint came off. This was when I started brushing it on the roof where
rust was more likely to form - joints, low sections etc. Now, in
truth, this will only brush the top of the corrugations and not the
valleys, which is the opposite of what the real world does. But it
suprisingly isn't noticeable unless you a) know it, and b) go looking
for it. Again, vary the mix a little for different ages of rust. Dry
brush until you're happy, but don't overdo it.
Then you're on your way! Have fun!
Steve
PS - all the floquil is from an earlier incarnation when I modelled a
prototype. Now I just love On30! :)
Jim Marlin
if dry.
Steve Caple
> Now, in truth, this will only brush the top of the
> corrugations and not the valleys, which is the opposite
> of what the real world does.
What do you think of letting it dry well and putting on a thin wash of
water-based rust color, letting it settle in the valleys and then pouring it
off toward the down side as will be installed, so it's heavier near the
bottom edge?
--
Steve
Big Fork & Diehl RR
* Simulate Prototypicality! *
Steve
Sounds worth a try. I did something similar on a walthers Canning Co
awning but in the reverse order. Painted it with Floquil Old Silver
(airbrush), dry brushed Tamiya Red Brown onto it - no Pollyscale then
- then used an old thinners wash to smudge it and concentrate the
colours towards the bottom edge. It worked OK, but the surface tension
of the thinner (and it would be worse with water-diluted acrylic,
IMHO) meant that the tops of the corrugation were still coloured,
admittedly less than the valleys.
I might give your suggestion a go on an outdoor dunny I'm building,
Steve. Iffen it don't work, well a dip of the brush into the paint
will solve that! :)
Steve
Steve
wrote:
(snip my stuff)
>On untraveled areas of floor, wipe off paint when wet, or lightly sand area
>if dry.
>
>
Good trick. Also, if it's an area where machinery, loco's, cars are
surfaced, you can also drybrush Oily Black - scrub it in to the
timber, fade it towards the edges.
Steve
Steve Caple
> the surface tension of the thinner (and it would be worse
> with water-diluted acrylic
Might be worth trying a bit of alcohol or PhotoFlo to minimize that. As you
said, it can always be repainted - we gotta be thankful for that!
Doug
if you like them at http://www.rrhq.com Look in the Belle Isle Creek
album.
If you like the appearance, I will answer your questions.
Doug
Ian Smith
those Kits.
Thanks for sharing.
One question , how did you make that log pond look so great? , a green muddy
colour
Ian
Doug <do...@rrhq.com> wrote in message
news:70f65ddf.02092...@posting.google.com...
Doug
I used Floquil earth and depot olive to get the murky pea soup color
that looks so much like a near stagnant log pond when the bottom gets
stirred up.
I used Envirotex and my first pour had weathered black in it to hide
the plywood bottom.
My last pour was clear and I sprinkled it with real bark ground up in
a blender.
Doug
Ian Smith
the middle pours?
How many pours did you use altogeather?
thanks for the info
Ian
Doug <do...@rrhq.com> wrote in message
news:70f65ddf.0209...@posting.google.com...
Doug
I did four pours.
1) black to cover base
2) Earth color (looked too much like coffee)
3) Depot Olive Green to knock down the earty color and look like alge
was forming in the water.
4) clear coat for the wet look
Doug
"Ian Smith" <cam...@tnet.com.au> wrote in message news:<7Osl9.342198$w17....@post-02.news.easynews.com>...
Paul Newhouse
EXCELLENT!! Even looking at the pictures on a computer screen, I
expected to see the loggers adjust their pikes or fall in.
Paul
--
Working on the Rockie Road
Steve Caple
> If you like the appearance, I will answer your questions.
The trackwork, the weeds and litter, the ponds, the rust stains on the
skidway out of the pond - all great stuff. I'd love to read an article on
your lineside weeds and litter methods. What do you use for track and
turnouts?
But I would like to know who made those [very few] trees with the blue-gray
plastic trunks so I can avoid buying any of them <g>.
Thanks for an interesting link,
Richard Sullivan
Although I dislike posters who include the complete text and add a
weak "Me, Too!", in this case it is warranted. I had missed the
original post with the link and Paul's inclusion of it directed my
attention to the pages.
Thank you for posting (and thank you Paul for re-posting) the link and
sharing some magnificent modeling. Quite an inspiration for this week
(weak?) end modeler.
Bookmarked and forwarded.
Richard
Albuquerque
Paul Newhouse
Richard Sullivan <richsu...@comcast.net> writes:
> Although I dislike posters who include the complete text
It was a really small "complete text". I didn't figure it
would hurt much!? Especially given the very impressive
layout depicted in the pics.
Last Friday I was having one of those "tryin' to climb a big
mountain" down days. Looking at all the crud on the weekend
todo list. Seems like these layouts are a damn lot of work
and the progress is really slow. I forwarded the link to my
wife and we both got a full head of steam up for the "crud"
on the list (which is odd since I'm into diesel but, ...).
We are just hoping our layouts will look 1/10 as good someday.
Thanks Doug (and Roger T., Geren and a host of others. My
apologies for not having more of the inspiring names right here
in my finger tips). (Oh yeah, and to the posters like Fred D.
for sharing the good info.)
Hmmm, rereading that it got a little syrupier than I intended.
Richard,
I'll try to remember to trim next time ;))) Not too much though.
Paul Newhouse
rockhe...@pimin.rockhead.com (Paul Newhouse) writes:
> of the inspiring names
Let's make that somehting more like, "the names of those who have
shared their inspiring layouts".
Kennedy
Ugh! I ain't falling into that sh*t....
:D
Kennedy
--
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Doug
> Doug wrote:
> > If you like the appearance, I will answer your questions.
>
> The trackwork, the weeds and litter, the ponds, the rust stains on the
> skidway out of the pond - all great stuff. I'd love to read an article on
> your lineside weeds and litter methods. What do you use for track and
> turnouts?
>
> But I would like to know who made those [very few] trees with the blue-gray
> plastic trunks so I can avoid buying any of them <g>.
>
> Thanks for an interesting link,
Steve,
The track is Shinohara code 70 flex and switches sprayed Floquil Earth
and (10 days later) the ties are stained with diluted Floquil colors.
The rails are painted rail brown and then everything gets a black wash
and dry brushing with a light gray.
The weeds are a variety of Woodland Scenics materials and some of my
blendered up real fall leaves and bark.
Actualy, the trees you refer to do look much better than they appear.
They are not very photogenic.
The clutter is mostly Fine Scale Miniatures and other detail castings.
Doug
Steve Caple
> then everything gets a black wash
> and dry brushing with a light gray
Those ties looked really well aged - not a whiff of creosote left!
Paul Newhouse
Kennedy (no longer not on The Haggis!) <howl...@YOUKNOWHAT.tir.com> writes:
> rockhe...@pimin.rockhead.com (Paul Newhouse) wrote:
>
>> In article <70f65ddf.02092...@posting.google.com>,
>> do...@rrhq.com (Doug) writes:
>> > http://www.rrhq.com Look in the Belle Isle Creek
>>
>
>
>:D
My thought exactly!! ;)