Brick colored paint
DanK
plastic models of buildings. None of the Model Master colors that I've
seen seem right. Too red or too glossy. Has anyone found a good
brick-like color to use????
Thanks.
DanK
Frank A. Rosenbaum
--
Frank Rosenbaum
Please support the following train meets if you can
Gratiot Valley ( www.gvrr.org ) in Macomb Michigan in March and November
and the Kalamazoo Model Railroad Historical Society ( www.kmrhs.org ) at the
Kalamazoo Fairgrounds in Kalamazoo MI in October.
Also check out the Westchester Model Railroad Club's train meet in Greenwich
CT in November and March.
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Frank Rosenbaum
"DanK" <djk...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157075556....@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
David Starr
good red with a hint of brown, very flat, will cover anything. After
the paint dries you can rub some powdered white chalk into the mortar
lines. You can powder plain old school blackboard chalk be rubbing it
on a kitchen strainer. Be aware that Dullcote marries into powdered
chalk and makes it disappear. Buildings don't get handled much so they
don't really need the Dullcote to fix the chalk in place.
I feel that raw unpainted plastic has too much glossy sheen to look
right. If I don't paint it, I give it some Dullcote to kill the gloss.
The color of prototype brick varied quite a bit from time to time and
place to place. I have seen pure soft red without a hint of brown, dark
brown, and every shade inbetween. The pure soft red brick is 1800's in
the Northeast. Montreal is dark brown brick everywhere. Also yellow
brick, popular in the 1930's to 1950's but not seen much in new
construction.
David Starr
Peter W.
Dan,
in "real" world, bricks come in a wide range of colors. From gray,
cream, tan to various shades of the common "red clay" bricks.
I assume that you want that avarage brownish/orangish/red color.
Polly-S used to have a color called "Venetian Red" IIRC, it was in
their Fantasy Colors line. It dried flat and had very pleasing "red
brick" hue. But I think it is now discontinued.
If your colors are to glossy, there are several dull clear coats
available....
As far as airbrushing goes, any paint can be shot through an airbrush.
Even spary can paint can be decanted and sprayed through the airbrush.
Peteski
David Nebenzahl
Here's a thought: forget model paints altogether. I've had better luck
with the little bottles of acrylic craft paint you can get everywhere
(in the U.S., at least), e.g., Delta Ceramcoat. They come in about a
thousand colors, including some very nice brick red/terra-cotta colors,
plus they're flat, not unrealistically glossy. Very easy to work with,
too. And cheap.
--
In order to embark on a new course, the only one that will
solve the problem: negotiations and peace with the Palestinians,
the Lebanese, the Syrians. And: with Hamas and Hizbullah.
Because it's only with enemies that one makes peace.
- Uri Avnery, Israeli writer and peace activist with Gush Shalom.
(http://counterpunch.org/avnery08032006.html)
Sir Ray
work better than spray painting in terms of a finish - perhaps even a
combination of spray red primer, and then thin coats of brownish read
or oxide red.
Of course, if the building owner has painted over the brick (common in
restorations, graffitti removal, smallish 'franchise' buildings like
banks or 99c stores or .. Taco Bell :p), you need not model the mortar
color at all (e.g. Starting in the Koch era, NYC painted many of its
brick abutment walls along highways a bright red, with white for the
concrete trim - this was mainly to hide graffitti, and also
mold/stains/soot etc - they seem to be keeping this up, so the
abutments are still red with no morter lines). I guess for anything but
a model of a very recent restoration/construction, a thin wash of black
would add realism, but that applies to almost any structure - even the
toniest storefronts on the 'MIracle Mile' tend to have a thin layer of
dust and soot...
Wolf Kirchmeir
Well, first off, there no such thing as "brick colour." Just go look at
actual brick buildings, and you'll see what I mean. If I were you, I'd
take a bunch of photos for reference. (Bonus: if you use a digital
camera, you can print some of them on cardstock , cut them out, and glue
them to backdrops.) Then go look at acrylic craft paints available in
craft and hobby stores, etc. Pick reddish browns, the earth colours
(sienna, ochre, etc) -- whatever looks close to what you've seen.
This is how I paint brick buildings. I let the paint dry thoroughly
between steps. A "wash" is a very thin solution of paint, watery in
consistency, and with little covering ability - almost transparent, in fact.
1) wash the plastic parts or completed model in dish detergent, and let
them air dry
2) prime with a automotive red primer. A light coat is sufficient, just
enough to kill the plastic shine and provide some tooth for the acrylic
paint. If the plastic itself was "brick" coloured, this is often enough,
got to 4.
3) add washes of suitable brick colours over the primer. Don't worry
about getting an even coat, the overall impression is what counts.
4) add an overall wash of medium to light grey and let it settle into
the mortar lines. Avoid white - mortar is grey! (Some owners have
"improved" their buildings by painting the mortar white - if you're
modelling one of those, use a heavier white wash, and gently dab the
surface to pick up the white from the bricks and leave it in the mortar
lines.)
5) paint details such as window frames, etc, if present. If you need to
mask, use blue or green masking tape, not the beige stuff. Step 9 may be
done at this time, too.
6) add washes of black and/or dark greys to simulate the effect of
decades of exposure to smoke etc. Apply unevenly. Repeat as needed to
create the tone you want, letting the wash touch dry between
applications 9about 5-15 minutes).
The following steps are more or less optional, depending on desired effects.
7) add streaks of rust, dirt, etc from edges of window sills, etc, so
simulate the effect of rain washed dirt. Use a fine brushes, and
slightly heavier washes.
8) add light grey or white washes here and there to simulate efflorescence.
9) pick out areas of brick in a slightly brighter colour to show where
signs have been removed, or brick has been replaced or cleaned, etc.
(Study your pictures for ideas.)
10) repeat some or all of steps 7 to 10 as needed.
Similar techniques work for roofs, wooden walls, etc - just use
appropriate colours. Basic rule: always prime the parts/structure first.
If it's a lighter coloured one, use light grey primer instead of red.
HTH
Bob May
what colors to mix with what, ask a friend that is an artist painter.
Next is that brick really isn't one color. Aside from the different bricks
in different areas being different actual colors, weathering also changes
the color of a brick. Finally, the individual bricks in a building are
usually a range of colors near the basic color and this is something that
you may not have noticed.
After you do the basic color, you'll have to go through and temper each
brick with some wash to bring out it's own color on the wall. After that,
you can add in the mortar lines and weathering of the whole wall.
--
Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits
everybody else. How dumb!
David Starr
> DanK spake thus:
>
>> I'm looking for a brick colored paint to paint (using an airbrush)
>> plastic models of buildings. None of the Model Master colors that I've
>> seen seem right. Too red or too glossy. Has anyone found a good
>> brick-like color to use????
>
> Here's a thought: forget model paints altogether. I've had better luck
> with the little bottles of acrylic craft paint you can get everywhere
> (in the U.S., at least), e.g., Delta Ceramcoat. They come in about a
> thousand colors, including some very nice brick red/terra-cotta colors,
> plus they're flat, not unrealistically glossy. Very easy to work with,
> too. And cheap.
>
>
David Starr
David Nebenzahl
That's right, I forgot. My man!
Greg.P.
make them plus a little on the means of firing. From there, brick buildings
tend to last a long time so the weathering can vary from almost none through
to no original colour visible. In addition, the colour of the mortar has an
effect on the overall appearance, varying from pristine white through to
completely weathered. This weathering lets down the initial white much
quicker than it does the brick.
I tend to spray with red-oxide automotive spray (I spray almost everything
with red oxide =8^) then wash with a mix of white and burnt sienna acrylic
for the mortar, then wipe it partially off and finally lock it on with an
artist's matt varnish spray.
Regards,
Greg.P.
DanK
bricks. Lots of good ideas and techniques!
DanK
Wolf Kirchmeir
[...] the mortar has an
> effect on the overall appearance, varying from pristine white through to
I have never, ever, seen a white mortar. I'd like to have photographic
evidence a brand-new brick building with white (not light grey) mortar.)
Greg.P.
"Wolf Kirchmeir" <G...@JungleBook.com> wrote in message
news:44f990c7$0$24168$9a6e...@news.newshosting.com...
You're not trying to do a Mark Newton on me, are you?
Some places here in New Zealand we have pure white/opaic sand and the mortar
made with it turns out as near white as damit. The length of time that it
would remain "white" would be from about the third day of drying until the
first Diesel truck drove past.
I agree, pure white and pure black don't exist in nature.
Regards,
Greg.P.
Beowulf
DanK <djk...@hotmail.com> skrev i
diskussionsgruppsmeddelandet:1157198057.2...@m79g2000cwm.googlegrou
ps.com...
> A big thanks to everyone who responded to my question about painting
> bricks. Lots of good ideas and techniques!
> DanK
>
Just as a matter of interest industrial bricks can and often are Blue, and
if you happen to be around an RAF Aerodrome you will find that just about
every brick building (pre45) is built with camoflage coloured bricks ie
brown and green... just to add to the Brickie information 8). I dont know
if ww2 military buildings in the USA were camoflaged this way they may not
have felt the needs to considering that the only bombs dropped on the USA
were from high altitude balloons , the zepplins which plagued the UK werent
so high altitude and didnt need helium(2 threads!) though when I lived in
York a 100kilo bomb was found at the end of the street when a house owner
was demolishing an old shed in his yard... apparently the builder of the
shed circa 1917 hammered a hole through one of the fins because he couldnt
smack it out of the wall it had landed in and used it as a support for his
tool shed........some mothers do have them...and they live....sorry about
that folks bit OT posssibly unless you are modelling one of the US/RAF bases
in England or Scotland that had its own railway such as RAF Halton, there
were others, I believe that Halton had an Me 109 delivered by rail in 39,
(My old boy trained on it...) interesting load!, anyone know of any US bases
(In the UK) with internal lines?
Ok there are blue and green bricks tooo.....
vale Beowulf
Klaus D. Mikkelsen
>
> Just as a matter of interest industrial bricks can and often are Blue, and
> Ok there are blue and green bricks tooo.....
Interesting history - very interesting :-)
Thanks
Klaus
--
Modelbane Europas hjemmeside: http://www.modelbaneeuropa.hadsten.dk
Modeltog, internet, gratis spambekćmpelse, elektronik og andet:
http://home6.inet.tele.dk/moppe
Beowulf
Klaus D. Mikkelsen <Er.du.s...@du.kan.finde.den> skrev i
diskussionsgruppsmeddelandet:44FA0865...@du.kan.finde.den...
> Beowulf skriver:
> >
> > Just as a matter of interest industrial bricks can and often are Blue,
and
> - cut -
> > Ok there are blue and green bricks tooo.....
>
> Interesting history - very interesting :-)
>
>
> Thanks
> Klaus
I started typing and couldnt stop...honest! :D
åh en dansk! :)
Valé Beowulf
Robert Small
White mortar was very common for brickwork on the "old days"
Generally it was a lime mortar, and sometimes only used for "pointing"
the exterior joints.
--
Bob Small
Wolf K
OK. Just goes to show that NZ is weird in more than one way... :-)
Greg.P.
"Wolf K" <El_Lob...@Ruddy.Moss.com> wrote in message
news:44fb1139$0$24214$9a6e...@news.newshosting.com...
Dan Merkel
thinner to thin them with. A paint store owner friend of mine told me that
water will affect the adhesion of the paint, so that isn't the best to use.
I can't remember what I use right now but I 'THINK" it is a Gumbacher(?)
product. It cost about $10 for a larger bottle but lasts for quite a while.
dlm
"David Starr" <dstarr...@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:AcSdneysEoNZJ2XZ...@adelphia.com...
David Nebenzahl
> I've used them quite a bit. Just be sure to get a good acrylic paint
> thinner to thin them with. A paint store owner friend of mine told me that
> water will affect the adhesion of the paint, so that isn't the best to use.
> I can't remember what I use right now but I 'THINK" it is a Gumbacher(?)
> product. It cost about $10 for a larger bottle but lasts for quite a while.
That's Grumbacher, but it's also nonsense from my experience: water
works just fine. After all, that's the solvent used in acrylic paints.
They adhere just fine in a thin wash as well as in a full coat.
--
Napoleon won the battle of Waterloo. The German Wehrmacht won World War
II. The United States won in Vietnam, and the Soviets in Afghanistan.
The Zealots won against the Romans, and Ehud Olmert won the Second
Lebanon War.
- Uri Avnery, Israeli peace activist
(http://counterpunch.org/avnery09022006.html)
Ken Day
wrote:
Lots of buildings with white mortar. Check out some of the new
buildings built with white brick. There are many old buildings with
white mortar and...Oh , almost forgot , some of the buildings on my
layout have white mortar.
Ken
Greg.P.
Regards,
Greg.P.
"Ken Day" <kd1...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:ams1g2p8hvlrr2964...@4ax.com...
Wolf K
Like I said, I've never seen a white mortar - light grey, yes, but most
mortar is medium grey and even darker. In fact, many mortars are
coloured to harmonise with the brick, a practice that goes back many
years AFAICT. That would account for the white mortar - white brick
combination (or is it a very light grey?). But so far, I've not seen a
bight (not even light grey) mortar combined with dark bricks. The
lightest Ive seen is medium grey with blue bricks (actually, blue/dark
brown variegated.)
I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.) Looked
ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building.
Greg says in NZ they use a bright white sand to make mortar. I have no
reason to disbelieve him. I wouldn't be surprised if some people used it
with dark bricks, too. There's no accounting for taste.
Oh, I still haven't been given photographic evidence. :-)
Ken Day
wrote:
>Greg.P. wrote:
Careful what you wish for. Never know when an architect or masonry
contractor may be lurking around.
http://www.generalshale.com/home.php
This structure is very new and it has white mortar.
Keith
Very creamy white that one, but nos 20 and 23 in the gallery are much
closer to white.
Keith
Wolf K
Which structure? The three pix show brown and beige mortars. Just where
should I click to find the building you're talking about?
Not that I doubt that some architect has specified brilliant white
mortar for some building somewhere... :-)
mark_newton
> I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.) Looked
> ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building.
A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing". Very popular on
California bungalow-style houses built just after WW1. It worked well on
them but not on many other styles of dwelling I've seen it applied to.
> Greg says in NZ they use a bright white sand to make mortar. I have
> no reason to disbelieve him. I wouldn't be surprised if some people
> used it with dark bricks, too. There's no accounting for taste.
>
> Oh, I still haven't been given photographic evidence. :-)
I wouldn't hold my breath while waiting for it, either.
Wolf K
OK, I found it (I had javascript turned off). Do you mean the "rose
tudor" brick house? The mortar isn't white - it's light beige or cream.
OK, who's next? I still want to see nice, bright white mortar. Or even
very, very light grey mortar. :-)
Maybe I should offer a prize?
Or maybe we should form a club of mortar hunters. We'll go out every
weekend and photograph brick wall, carefully lit (we'll bring along
portable lights) to bring out the full splendor of the colours of the
bricks and mortar. We could even a form a new newsgroup:
alt.rec.insane.brick.and.mortar.kooks, anybody?
Hah!
fl@liner
Go to the "Face Brick" page on the same site. Plenty of
close up examples there.
fl@liner
This tagline has been certified
to contain no political rants.
Wolf K
> On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 10:09:32 -0400, Wolf K
> <El_Lob...@Ruddy.Moss.com> wrote:
>
>> Ken Day wrote:
>>> http://www.generalshale.com/home.php
[..]
> fl@liner
>
> This tagline has been certified
> to contain no political rants.
OK, did that. The closest to pure white is Alpine White Antique, pale
grey brick and matching mortar. Probably looks white in the right light,
at least compared to nearby buildings.
Still not white.
Greg, do you have a photo of a NZ building with pure white mortar? If
so, please post url, or post to alt.binaries.pictures.rail, as an OT
post. Thanks.
fl@liner
<El_Lob...@Ruddy.Moss.com> wrote:
At what temperature Kelvin do you want the lighting?
However you want to pick the nit, the mortar is (some shade
of) white. Live with it...
Ken Day
<El_Lob...@Ruddy.Moss.com> wrote:
>fl@liner wrote:
>> On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 10:09:32 -0400, Wolf K
>> <El_Lob...@Ruddy.Moss.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Ken Day wrote:
>[...]
>>>> http://www.generalshale.com/home.php
>[..]
>> fl@liner
>>
>> This tagline has been certified
>> to contain no political rants.
>
>OK, did that. The closest to pure white is Alpine White Antique, pale
>grey brick and matching mortar. Probably looks white in the right light,
>at least compared to nearby buildings.
>
>Still not white.
Here's a picture with a little text from the people who built the
house in the picture. Is the light good enough ?
I've drawn many plans for people who have used white brick and mortar,
especially in the south.
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0111354114120.html?4
Incidentally, most suppliers carry white mortar. Also made with white
sand here in the states just as it is anywhere else. Can't make white
mortar with brown sand.
Ken
Wolf K
[...]
> Here's a picture with a little text from the people who built the
> house in the picture. Is the light good enough ?
> I've drawn many plans for people who have used white brick and mortar,
> especially in the south.
>
> http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg0111354114120.html?4
>
> Incidentally, most suppliers carry white mortar. Also made with white
> sand here in the states just as it is anywhere else. Can't make white
> mortar with brown sand.
>
> Ken
>
OK, that's white enough. :-)
Now, anyone have a pic of white mortar with red or other dark brick?
Ken Day
Very seldom see that combination . Sometimes inside but I don't recall
ever seeing any white mortar joints with dark brick on an exterior
wall. It would stain terribly with dark brick.
Ken
Jay Cunnington
For bricks I'll generally use red oxide (box car red) lightened with
white to varying degrees.
Milwaukee has been known as "Cream City" since the early 20th century
due to the cream-colored bricks common to the city. This is due to the
chemical make-up of the local clay that was used to make the bricks.
Being a rather industrial area in times past, these bricks can be found
in an almost pristine cream color to stained almost black from exhaust
and pollution.
Mortar around here tends to be a light gray and from a distance on the
lighter cream buildings is almost unnoticeable.
Greg.P.
It's a little difficult to provide photographic evidence as there is very
little genuine new brick structure building going on in NZ these days, in
fact in my last ten days travelling 2,500km I didn't see any at all. I did
work in the building industry in my student days (late '60s) and never ever
saw any attempts to colour mortar, it was always white. From such a
viewpoint I never considered that elsewhere builders would go to the trouble
of colouring their mortar, but now you've brought it up I realise it's
something I'd never bothered to consider or question!
Of course white mortar weathers to off-white fairly quickly, but even
weathered it's reasonably obvious that it started white or almost white.
Steam train era brick buildings here didn't show white mortar, but I have no
reason to think they started life as any other colour.
Greg.P.
"mark_newton" <mark_...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:4502C536...@optusnet.com.au...
Martin, you very informatively told us that in Australia there was a
practice known as "tuckpointing", but you omitted to give ANY indication as
to what that practice was or is.
Was that simple ommission or basic stupidity?
Regards,
Greg.P.
Greg.P.
The colour of mortar is not something I'd ever questioned, here in NZ it's
always been white, so I've not built up a collection of photos to illustrate
differences. Of course it weathers from (pure/near) white, and as far as I
know there have been very few brick buildings built in the last 20 or so
years.
A quick check of the yellow pages shows the bricklaying craft to be
approaching zero here so I'm unlikely to find any new examples. One can get
bricklike facings, but I wouldn't stoop to photographing those as evidence.
8^)
Greg.P.
Why would the mortar stain with dark bricks??? Do you also stain your clay
to produce different coloured brick?
Regards,
Greg.P.
David G. Nagel
Older mortar was made with lime as a bonding agent. It wasn't until
fairly recently (past 50 years or so) that mortar was gray. The gray
comes from an additive derived from residue generated during aluminum
production Other colors can be added during the mixing process and can
be any color.
David G. Nagel
the joints between bricks, cement blocks, rocks, tiles, etc. Fresh
mortar is then pressed into the resulting void restoring the surface of
the masonry to a fresh lain appearance. This is a standard practice in
the building industry. Watch "This Old House" in one of it's varied
appearances for further information.
David G. Nagel
using coloring.
Wolf K
Yes, but even so, the colour of the mortar wasn't white. It's actual
colour depends on the colour of the aggregate (sand) used, as well as
the bonding agent. None of the houses I saw when i was growing up in
England had white mortar - it was all various shades of grey.
Wolf K
[...]
> Yes, most clay used in bricks is red but other colors can be created
> using coloring.
>
Er, the colour of the brick depends on the chemistry of the clay, and
its firing temperature. Different clays fire to different colours. Most
people like shades of red and brown, so most bricks are made with clays
that produce these colours. Some clays fire to yellows and ochres, some
even to bluish tones. Etc. One can affect te fired colour by adding iron
oxide (for example), but that's not the same ad "colouring" the brick,
since the same additive will produce different colours with different clays.
Ceramics is one of the most complex technologies we use.
Greg.P.
"David G. Nagel" <nagel...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:12h0vmu...@corp.supernews.com...
Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every possible
error I make, that he is not infallible.
I know the process, called "repointing" here, but never heard of
tuckpointing. We don't get "This Old House" here.
(so far, but I guess they'll get to it eventually )^8
Regards,
Greg.P.
Greg.P.
The advantage I find in getting involved in these discussions is that once
in a while I learn something - AFAIK we (NZ) don't, or didn't 50 years ago,
have such practices here. Sure, there's the occassional brick house with
coloured mortar in recent years, but the norm here has always been
variations on red-oxide bricks and (initially near) white mortar. I assumed,
without putting any great thought into the subject, that the same would hold
true elsewhere. I hope the reasonable individuals here won't think too badly
of me for never having put in-depth thought into foreign brickwork!
BTW, I have a small stack of yellow fire bricks, gathered up from an old
lime furnace demolished nearby.
Regards,
Greg.P.
NZ
Greg.P.
Of course!
The red comes about during the firing process as a part of the chemical
reaction. Different reds through browns towards black can be created with
different temperatures and firing times, in fact it's difficult to get the
same precise result twice.
David Nebenzahl
> Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every possible
> error I make, that he is not infallible.
> I know the process, called "repointing" here, but never heard of
> tuckpointing. We don't get "This Old House" here.
> (so far, but I guess they'll get to it eventually )^8
You know, you really are a *fucking idiot*. Your attitude is "if I
haven't heard of it, that probably means it doesn't exist, or the person
saying it is wrong."
Are all Aussies so dunderheaded?
--
Napoleon won the battle of Waterloo. The German Wehrmacht won World War
II. The United States won in Vietnam, and the Soviets in Afghanistan.
The Zealots won against the Romans, and Ehud Olmert won the Second
Lebanon War.
- Uri Avnery, Israeli peace activist
(http://counterpunch.org/avnery09022006.html)
Greg.P.
> David G. Nagel wrote:
> [...]
>> Yes, most clay used in bricks is red but other colors can be created
>> using coloring.
>>
>
> Er, the colour of the brick depends on the chemistry of the clay, and its
> firing temperature. Different clays fire to different colours. Most people
> like shades of red and brown, so most bricks are made with clays that
> produce these colours. Some clays fire to yellows and ochres, some even to
> bluish tones. Etc.
All those colour effects are relatively stable and will not stain the
mortar.
> One can affect the fired colour by adding iron oxide (for example), but
> that's not the same ad "colouring" the brick, since the same additive will
> produce different colours with different clays.
Iron oxide will certainly stain mortar if water can penetrate the brick.
mark_newton
>> Tuckpointing is a process where disintegrating mortar is removed
>> from the joints between bricks, cement blocks, rocks, tiles, etc.
>> Fresh mortar is then pressed into the resulting void restoring the
>> surface of the masonry to a fresh lain appearance. This is a
>> standard practice in the building industry. Watch "This Old House"
>> in one of it's varied appearances for further information.
>
> Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every
> possible error I make, that he is not infallible.
And neither are you, fuckwit. Far from it.
But I *DO* manage to get your name right, and more importantly, I
acknowledge those times when I'm shown to be incorrect by those with
more knowledge than I have. You should try it some time...
mark_newton
> Greg.P. spake thus:
>
>> Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every
>> possible error I make, that he is not infallible. I know the
>> process, called "repointing" here, but never heard of tuckpointing.
>> We don't get "This Old House" here. (so far, but I guess they'll
>> get to it eventually )^8
>
> You know, you really are a *fucking idiot*. Your attitude is "if I
> haven't heard of it, that probably means it doesn't exist, or the
> person saying it is wrong."
>
> Are all Aussies so dunderheaded?
Hold hard, David. Procter *IS* a fucking idiot, but he's *NOT* an
Australian. He's just another dimwit from New Zealand - the poor white
trash of the South Pacific.
But I quite agree with your summary of him. How he avoids getting
regularly thumped for being an ignorant fucking smartarse is beyond me.
Presumably he has little contact with polite society, and thereby
reduces the risk.
Cheers,
Mark.
mark_newton
> *"mark_newton" <mark_...@optusnet.com.au>* wrote in message
> news:4502C536...@optusnet.com.au...
>
>> Wolf K wrote:
>>
>>> I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.)
>>> Looked ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building.
>>
>> A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing". Very popular
>> on California bungalow-style houses built just after WW1. It worked
>> well on them but not on many other styles of dwelling I've seen it
>> applied to.
>
> Martin, you very informatively told us that in Australia there was a
> practice known as "tuckpointing", but you omitted to give ANY
> indication as to what that practice was or is. Was that simple
> ommission or basic stupidity?
Who's "Martin"? I know you're nearly blind, but can't you read message
headers? Can you, in fact, read for comprehension at all?
Context, dickhead, and the Usenet convention of interleaved replies,
should answer your question. Or it would, if you weren't basically stupid.
Wolf K wrote:
"I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.) Looked
ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building."
and I replied, in the conventional manner;
"A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing"."
Do you understand *NOW*?
mark_newton
>> Greg says in NZ they use a bright white sand to make mortar. I have
>> no reason to disbelieve him. I wouldn't be surprised if some people
>> used it with dark bricks, too. There's no accounting for taste.
>>
>> Oh, I still haven't been given photographic evidence. :-)
>
> It's a little difficult to provide photographic evidence as there is
> very little genuine new brick structure building going on in NZ these
> days...
Translation: I'm a pathological liar who's been caught out YET AGAIN.
Paul Newhouse
mark_newton <mark_...@optusnet.com.au> writes:
>
> But I quite agree with your summary of him. How he avoids getting
> regularly thumped for being an ignorant fucking smartarse is beyond me.
Mark,
His arrogance is only manifest from behind his keyboard.
In person he is, no doubt, the meek mouse that draws no attention
what so ever. No opinions, avoids eye contact, ... you have probably
overlooked him everyday for years (he only claims to be from NZ and
you don't believe anything else he says, so why believe he is from NZ?).
Paul
adm.nelson
walls. However, I mostly use acrylic brush on paints from Michaels or
other hobby shops. They are FolkArt or Americana brands, there are
plenty, that have great colors. Also, I use several of these paints,
black, brown, reds etc, to individually color bricks at random. They
turn out very realistic. I have seen real brick buildings downtown, and
that is exactly how they look. A building with only one brick color is
not realistic, maybe for the front face of some expensive building, but
generally, they are always mixed colors. Hope this helps.
Tony Burgess
David Starr wrote:
> DanK wrote:
> > I'm looking for a brick colored paint to paint (using an airbrush)
> > plastic models of buildings. None of the Model Master colors that I've
> > seen seem right. Too red or too glossy. Has anyone found a good
> > brick-like color to use????
> > Thanks.
> > DanK
> >
> I use spray cans of red auto primer, from the auto parts store. It is a
> good red with a hint of brown, very flat, will cover anything. After
> the paint dries you can rub some powdered white chalk into the mortar
> lines. You can powder plain old school blackboard chalk be rubbing it
> on a kitchen strainer. Be aware that Dullcote marries into powdered
> chalk and makes it disappear. Buildings don't get handled much so they
> don't really need the Dullcote to fix the chalk in place.
> I feel that raw unpainted plastic has too much glossy sheen to look
> right. If I don't paint it, I give it some Dullcote to kill the gloss.
> The color of prototype brick varied quite a bit from time to time and
> place to place. I have seen pure soft red without a hint of brown, dark
> brown, and every shade inbetween. The pure soft red brick is 1800's in
> the Northeast. Montreal is dark brown brick everywhere. Also yellow
> brick, popular in the 1930's to 1950's but not seen much in new
> construction.
>
> David Starr
adm.nelson
or Sennelier to add "mortar". I just rub some in the brick, lick my
finger and lightly rub off the surface, what you leave is a light grey
or whatever color you use, in the mortar lines.
Tony Burgess
Greg.P.
"David Nebenzahl" <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4510cf21$0$19907$8226...@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> Greg.P. spake thus:
>
>> Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every
>> possible error I make, that he is not infallible.
>> I know the process, called "repointing" here, but never heard of
>> tuckpointing. We don't get "This Old House" here.
>> (so far, but I guess they'll get to it eventually )^8
>
> You know, you really are a *fucking idiot*. Your attitude is "if I haven't
> heard of it, that probably means it doesn't exist, or the person saying it
> is wrong."
>
> Are all Aussies so dunderheaded?
Yes, certainly!
OTOH I'd never heard of "tuckpointing" and didn't know what was meant by the
term, hence my asking what it was. It's not particularly self evident.
Greg.P.
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> > Greg.P. spake thus:
> >
> >> Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every
> >> possible error I make, that he is not infallible. I know the
> >> process, called "repointing" here, but never heard of tuckpointing.
> >> We don't get "This Old House" here. (so far, but I guess they'll
> >> get to it eventually )^8
> >
> > You know, you really are a *fucking idiot*. Your attitude is "if I
> > haven't heard of it, that probably means it doesn't exist, or the
> > person saying it is wrong."
> >
> > Are all Aussies so dunderheaded?
>
> Hold hard, David. Procter *IS* a fucking idiot, but he's *NOT* an
> Australian. He's just another dimwit from New Zealand - the poor white
> trash of the South Pacific.
Nahh, that's our Western Island, where we send all the thickoos.
Greg.P.
"Paul Newhouse" <rockhe...@pimin.rockhead.com> wrote in message
news:12h32lf...@corp.supernews.com...
LOL.
Greg.P.
> Greg.P. wrote:
>
> >> Tuckpointing is a process where disintegrating mortar is removed
> >> from the joints between bricks, cement blocks, rocks, tiles, etc.
> >> Fresh mortar is then pressed into the resulting void restoring the
> >> surface of the masonry to a fresh lain appearance. This is a
> >> standard practice in the building industry. Watch "This Old House"
> >> in one of it's varied appearances for further information.
> >
> > Thanks; I was pointing out to Martin, who delights in picking every
> > possible error I make, that he is not infallible.
>
> And neither are you, fuckwit. Far from it.
I never thought I was - well there was a moment back in 1967.
>
> But I *DO* manage to get your name right, and more importantly, I
> acknowledge those times when I'm shown to be incorrect by those with
> more knowledge than I have. You should try it some time...
I'm incorrect about bricks???
I only commented on New Zealand bricks, so how wrong could I be?
Greg.P.
> Greg.P. wrote:
>
> > *"mark_newton" <mark_...@optusnet.com.au>* wrote in message
> > news:4502C536...@optusnet.com.au...
> >
> >> Wolf K wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.)
> >>> Looked ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building.
> >>
> >> A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing". Very popular
> >> on California bungalow-style houses built just after WW1. It worked
> >> well on them but not on many other styles of dwelling I've seen it
> >> applied to.
> >
> > Martin, you very informatively told us that in Australia there was a
> > practice known as "tuckpointing", but you omitted to give ANY
> > indication as to what that practice was or is. Was that simple
> > ommission or basic stupidity?
>
> Who's "Martin"? I know you're nearly blind, but can't you read message
> headers? Can you, in fact, read for comprehension at all?
>
> Context, dickhead, and the Usenet convention of interleaved replies,
> should answer your question. Or it would, if you weren't basically stupid.
Context? " >> A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing". "
>
> Wolf K wrote:
>
> "I have seen mortar that's been _painted_ white. (I checked.) Looked
> ghastly, but hey, it wasn't my building."
>
> and I replied, in the conventional manner;
>
> "A practice known here in Australia as "tuckpointing"."
>
> Do you understand *NOW*?
>
So you're telling me Australians are stupid enough to waste their time
painting the mortar between bricks. Is it any surprise I missed the context.
Even I didn't think Aussies were that stupid!
Greg.P.
Mark, old thickwit, if I supplied photos of white mortar between bricks, how
would you know that they were genuine bricks and mortar and not those of
some Aussie who couldn't find the airport and spent his days with a bottle
of white-out beautifying his NZ house?
David Starr
> I agree with David on the auto primer. That is what I use for large
> walls. However, I mostly use acrylic brush on paints from Michaels or
> other hobby shops. They are FolkArt or Americana brands, there are
> plenty, that have great colors. Also, I use several of these paints,
> black, brown, reds etc, to individually color bricks at random. They
> turn out very realistic. I have seen real brick buildings downtown, and
> that is exactly how they look. A building with only one brick color is
> not realistic, maybe for the front face of some expensive building, but
> generally, they are always mixed colors. Hope this helps.
> Tony Burgess
Big John Dalton used to swear by the Ceramcoat brand of acrylics from
craft shops like Michaels.
David Starr
David Starr
> Ah, reminded me of one other thing. I use soft pastel chalks Rembrandt
> or Sennelier to add "mortar". I just rub some in the brick, lick my
> finger and lightly rub off the surface, what you leave is a light grey
> or whatever color you use, in the mortar lines.
> Tony Burgess
I've had good luck with that technique too. In fact plain old white
school black board chalk, powdered by rubbing it on a kitchen strainer
gives a very nice effect. Just remember that Dullcote marries into
powdered chalk and makes it disappear. Since structures don't get the
handling that rolling stock does, I just omit the Dullcote.
David Starr
mark_newton
One or two quirks in the way he uses English suggest that is a kiwi -
plus the enormous chip on his shoulder.
Cheers,
Mark.
Sir Ray
Greg.P. wrote:
> The colour of mortar is not something I'd ever questioned, here in NZ it's
> always been white, so I've not built up a collection of photos to illustrate
> differences. Of course it weathers from (pure/near) white, and as far as I
> know there have been very few brick buildings built in the last 20 or so
> years.
Really? I didn't realize that. I was in the South Island about 6
years ago, Blenheim, Greymouth, Hokkadiko, and so on (didn't get to
ChristChurch), and now come to think of it most of the buildings I saw
were either wood or concrete material (I may be incorrect, and would
accept correction if so). There was a large open shed at the Hokkadiko
freight yard which was steel and concrete block.
Hmm, maybe that's the difference - where I live on long Island, the
overwhelming majority of homes are either wood framed (often covered in
Vinyl siding) or brick (or some combination thereof).
Now in New Zealand, the private homes I saw often seemed to be of
smooth-ish masonary exterior construction (like poured concrete, or
plaster, or adobe[!] or what-not - I didn't give much thought to it) -
I don't remember seeing a single private home in brick, where-as there
are thousands right in my own neighborhood. What are most home
constructed of down-under (and a bit to the right)?
Greg.P.
"Sir Ray" <waterb...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1158951122.3...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> Greg.P. wrote:
>> The colour of mortar is not something I'd ever questioned, here in NZ
>> it's
>> always been white, so I've not built up a collection of photos to
>> illustrate
>> differences. Of course it weathers from (pure/near) white, and as far as
>> I
>> know there have been very few brick buildings built in the last 20 or so
>> years.
>
> Really? I didn't realize that. I was in the South Island about 6
> years ago, Blenheim, Greymouth, Hokkadiko, and so on (didn't get to
> ChristChurch), and now come to think of it most of the buildings I saw
> were either wood or concrete material (I may be incorrect, and would
> accept correction if so). There was a large open shed at the Hokkadiko
> freight yard which was steel and concrete block.
(Hokitika - Hokkaido is in Japan 8^)
You were on the west coast of the South Island. Those areas (I'm there right
now) are a long way and a number of mountain passes from more dense
population so heavier building materials such as tiles, bricks and blocks
are more expensive than locally produced timber and cement. Typically homes
here are timber framed and clad, with corrigated iron rooves. Brick
buildings are uncommon.
> Hmm, maybe that's the difference - where I live on long Island, the
> overwhelming majority of homes are either wood framed (often covered in
> Vinyl siding) or brick (or some combination thereof).
> Now in New Zealand, the private homes I saw often seemed to be of
> smooth-ish masonary exterior construction (like poured concrete, or
> plaster, or adobe[!]
Most likely that is "stucco", a concrete plaster applied to a timber clad
building to reduce painting requirements.
My own home is poured concrete, 6" thick. An unusual method of construction.
> or what-not - I didn't give much thought to it) -
> I don't remember seeing a single private home in brick, where-as there
> are thousands right in my own neighborhood. What are most home
> constructed of down-under (and a bit to the right)?
Brick houses aren't uncommon in city areas or near rural brickworks, but
concrete blocks arrived in the 1950s and steadily replaced brick in new
construction. I can't recall seeing a new brick house in 20 years. However,
bricks are readily available at hardware outlets so I guess there must be
some somewhere.
Off the top of my head, I'd guess at 1 in 25 houses are brick in
Christchurch. (that's one word BTW, no second emphasis on the first ch of
church)
Regards,
Greg.P.
trek fan
differant in the color only the texture fine sand is the best because
when you strike the wall it gives the best weather sill .
White color is a pain in the ass to lay you have to try not to get any
mortor on the face of the brick or it has to be acid wash and it will
fad any color mortor your laying
downto...@montana.com
My advise? Don't overdo it. In fact, I rarely even add mortar. Look at
it this way. If you're looking at a model building on on your layout
that is 3' away from you, you're eyes are what, hundreds of "scale"
feet from your model, right? You'd be hard pressed to see the mortar on
a building 300' away from you.
I liken it to trying to paint the whites in the eyes of a scale figure.
Usually it's best to not even try, because it usually ends up looking
worse than if you never did it to begin with.
I did this model with Ceramicoat "Georgia Clay". No mortar. Check it
out.