Bus Wire

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

Hi Everyone,

I was at the store today pricing out wire for my HO scale power bus
and my forth coming NCE DCC system.

Is there a consensus on the guage for the bus wire and its track
feeders?

I have often read 14-guage for the bus wire and 18-guage for the
feeder wire(s).

Is 12-giage too heavy for the bus?

As always, thank you in advance for your help!!!
Matt

[Matt]

I use 12-guage for my NCE system, one for each rail (that is, one for
all of the "north" rails, a different one for all of the "south" rails).
I connect between terminal strips (one set for each, "north" or
"south"), drop 20-guage feeder wires to the terminal strips from the
track. I found a two-color 500' roll of speaker wire at Home Depot for
the feeder wires; red always goes to my "north" rail, white always to
the "south". Feeder wires every 3 feet - you can do with less, but
trust me, the difference is noticeable.

Another Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

Thanks Matt!

A few follow-ups.

[1] Regarding the 20-guage speaker wire. Do you maintain a strict max
length for each feeder wire?
[2] Did you terminate your bus wires?

*** I was just reading the lengthy piece on terminating your bus. It
seemed to indicate that anything under 30' in length from the
booster / power source kept things simple and did not require
termination.

[3] Did you twist your bus wires together?
[4] Do you have an NCE booster as well as the power supply on your
layout?
[5] Do you run your LED lighting and switches off of your bus or do
you have a separate power supply for them?

*** There was also information about twisting your bus to reduce
inductance issues. It didn't specify if 30' was the boundary length
for this concern as well.

Here's the link: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#problem_blown_solution

Thanks again!!!

[Matt]

1. Length of feeder wires. No strict max, but then I put in a lot of
terminal strips, such that no section of track is too far away from one.
Longest feeder wires are probably no more than 3 feet or so. Note
that the feeder wire is solid wire, not stranded.

2. I run my bus wire between terminal strips. As it happens, my
"control center" is about in the middle of the layout, so I have bus
wires heading out in two directions from there, and they terminate when
they get to the last terminal strip, a distance of less than 30 feet in
either direction (layout is 12 x 18 around the walls with duckunder.
Duckunder is fed from both sides, but is electrically separated
approximately in the middle - single track only at that point. Each
half is in a different power district).

3. No. The bus wires are physically separated by about 15 inches or so.
The layout is basically a shelf layout, 27" deep, and the "north" bus
wire runs along the back of the shelf, the "south" wire runs a few
inches back from the from of the shelf.

4. I have the NCE SB3a Smart Booster (5 amp setup). The layout is also
divided into 4 power districts (basically, one on each wall). I also
have a wye, with it's own circuit board (think reversing loop).

5. All lighting and switch machines are run off separate power packs -
you can pick up used ones at swap meets for pennies on the dollar.
Friend of mine does the same thing. If you're going to use stationary
decoders for your switch machines, they will have to be tied into the
DCC system - afraid I don't have any experience with that, though.

HTH

Another Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 6, 11:52 am, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:

> Another Matt- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Very Much appreciated!!!

You have given me a wealth of information that has cleared up these
lingering questions that I have had. I plan to follow your approach: a
12-guage bus, solid feeder wires, separate power for LED's and track
switches, and isolated power districts.

Thank you!!!
Matt

[PV]

mc_br...@yahoo.com writes:
>
>[1] Regarding the 20-guage speaker wire. Do you maintain a strict max
>length for each feeder wire?
>[2] Did you terminate your bus wires?

1) I can remember reading, a long time ago, a table for maximum feeder
length based on the gauge (the higher the gauge, the shorter the
feeder can be). And yup, it's on the same site I pointed you at
earlier - http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm. Note the link about
"track and wire resistance" on the same page, for more theory than
you probably need to know. As a rule of thumb - keep feeders at
3 feet or shorter, but you'd be surprised what you can get away with.

2) Never even thought about it. I don't think it's something to consider
unless you have very long runs (like 50 feet from the booster). Not
likely in all but the largest layouts. Frankly, I never even HEARD of
terminating a DCC track bus until I read your link.

>[3] Did you twist your bus wires together?

Nope. I run them under the track side-by-side, and cut off a little patch
of insulation as needed when I need to stick in a feeder. Twist the feeder
around the bus, test, and if everything works OK, solder.

>[4] Do you have an NCE booster as well as the power supply on your
>layout?

The power supply feeds the booster. The booster is the device that
modulates your DCC commands onto the track wires. You're always going to
have at least one of both.

>[5] Do you run your LED lighting and switches off of your bus or do
>you have a separate power supply for them?

These days, my switches are all driven from the rather wonderful team
digital SMD82 machines, which hang on the track wire. Don't know if they
work on NCE though, I'm a digitrax guy.

Lighting is on a seperate power supply in most cases, simply so that it can
be turned on and off seperate from the layout.

>*** There was also information about twisting your bus to reduce
>inductance issues. It didn't specify if 30' was the boundary length
>for this concern as well.

I wouldn't bother unless you have a long run to a spot in your layout, and
by long, I mean multiple tens of feet. Twisted bus wire is a pain to deal
with if you're going to be attaching feeders to it in the twisted section. *
--
* PV Something like badgers, something like lizards, and something
like corkscrews.

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 6, 3:08 pm, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:

> mc_bren...@yahoo.com writes:
>
> >[1] Regarding the 20-guage speaker wire. Do you maintain a strict max
> >length for each feeder wire?
> >[2] Did you terminate your bus wires?
>
> 1) I can remember reading, a long time ago, a table for maximum feeder
>    length based on the gauge (the higher the gauge, the shorter the
>    feeder can be). And yup, it's on the same site I pointed you at

>    earlier -http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm. Note the link about

Thank you!!!

I am pleased to read about your approach to attaching feeders to the
bus wire. I had seen that imaged and described in an article, and it
seemed like the ideal method. Your success using this approach has
confirmed my choice to go this same route. Ditto on running the bus
wires parallel but apart from one another like Matt stated earlier on
in describing his approach. I was hoping that the "twisting" method
was unnecessary - and it will be for me.

Space and budget will require me to build a small module extracted
from a larger layout drawing that I am presently working on. I am
going to complete every aspect of this module (no more than 36" x 8'),
get it to run perfectly, it will be a walk-around module design, and
see what happens from there. If space and budget allows for the next
module to be built and attached to the first one, I'll tackle all of
those connection issues when the time comes. I guess I will end the
bus wires with screw caps and leave a foot for each bus wire coiled
and hidden underneath the module. That will allow me to consider all
of my options going forward ... if going forward happens. The start-up
cost to dive into NCE is a bit pricey for me. However, there are two
local guys who operate their layouts on a weekly basis with a small
group of enthusiastic modelers, both use NCE, and, therefore, I
decided to buy into the same DCC system so I can operate at their
weekly sessions with confidence.

My sincere thanks to all of you for your replies and assistance!!!

I am a true hands-on learner which makes this early stage of
discussion (Q&A) a bit more challenging. But, I have taken down many
notes from these threads, I have a new DCC book on order, and I feel
confident that all of this will come together once I can make the NCE
purchase and get some hands-on experience. Plus, these local fellows
are very nice so I anticipate that they will be very helpful as well.

[Matt]

On 1/6/2012 6:00 PM, mc_br...@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Jan 6, 3:08 pm, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:
>> mc_bren...@yahoo.com writes:
>>

>snip

>
> Thank you!!!
>
> I am pleased to read about your approach to attaching feeders to the
> bus wire. I had seen that imaged and described in an article, and it
> seemed like the ideal method. Your success using this approach has
> confirmed my choice to go this same route. Ditto on running the bus
> wires parallel but apart from one another like Matt stated earlier on
> in describing his approach. I was hoping that the "twisting" method
> was unnecessary - and it will be for me.
>

Don't really mean to play Devil's Advocate here, but I'd think 2-3 times
about the whole process before attaching feeders to the bus wire. A lot
of people do it, but to me it makes a lot more sense to put a spade
terminal on the end of a wire and attach it to a terminal strip with a
screw than to mess around soldering wires directly to your bus line... a
lot neater, and a lot easier to make changes as required. DAMHIKT.

The other Matt

[Wolf K]

H'm. Good advice, works well for small layouts, but for a room-sized or
larger layout you'll need several terminal strips. How do you attach one
of these to the bus? By soldering feeds to the bus. Each with a spade
terminal at the end.... ;-)

HTH
Wolf K.

[Matt]

Actually, I daisy-chain the terminal strips via the bus wire (in effect,
making them part of the bus line). I've got a 12 x 18 layout, and yes,
I have a lot of terminal strips - one 6-8 post terminal strip for each
bus approximately every 3 feet. Gives me a lot of flexibility for
connecting feeder wires.

The other Matt

[Wolf K]

On 07/01/2012 9:33 AM, Matt wrote:
[...]

>> H'm. Good advice, works well for small layouts, but for a room-sized or
>> larger layout you'll need several terminal strips. How do you attach one
>> of these to the bus? By soldering feeds to the bus. Each with a spade
>> terminal at the end.... ;-)
>>
>> HTH
>> Wolf K.
> Actually, I daisy-chain the terminal strips via the bus wire (in effect,
> making them part of the bus line). I've got a 12 x 18 layout, and yes,
> I have a lot of terminal strips - one 6-8 post terminal strip for each
> bus approximately every 3 feet. Gives me a lot of flexibility for
> connecting feeder wires.
>
> The other Matt

Oops, I'd forgotten about that. Thanks for the reminder. ;-)

Wolf K.

[Matt]

And I should have commented that I found your suggestion of only
connecting the terminal strips to the bus via soldering a feed and using
spade terminals to be preferable to the idea of directly connecting
every feeder wire straight to the bus. On my last layout, which was
larger than the current one, I connected most everything directly to the
bus, and it did get messy after a while. Too, it seemed like every time
I dropped a feeder wire from the rail and started looking for a good
place to connect to the bus, there were already half a dozen or more
connections nearby that I had to work around. On this layout, I tried
to bring a bit more order to things, mainly because the layout framework
is built on top of home built storage shelves, so I can't crawl
underneath it to do any wiring. The one mistake I did make: I put the
terminal strips on cross braces perpendicular to the front edge of the
layout rather than on braces parallel to the front edge. Thus, my
"north" bus line is harder to get to whenever I add new feeder wires.
Fortunately, I shouldn't have to add too many more feeder wires now,
though there are a couple of tracks that would probably benefit from
doing so.

The other Matt

[Calvin Henry-Cotnam]

mc_br...@yahoo.com (mc_br...@yahoo.com) said...

>
>Is there a consensus on the guage for the bus wire and its track
>feeders?

You will probably get slightly different answers from everyone, but here
is what I do...

The main buses on my system are 14 ga. The room is divided into two halves,
each being powered by a separate power booster, so a bus on each side has
a maximum length of 30-40 feet.

I use occupancy detector cards with up to four detectors on a card. From
the 14 ga. bus, I will use an 18 ga. feeder to the card.

Track feeders are 22 ga, but I limit their length to about a foot. If the
occupancy card is within that foot, the 22 ga. feeder connects the card
to the track on its own. If longer (though cards are almost always within
four feet of the track they power), I will use an 18 ga. wire to connect
the card to the 22 ga. feeder.

I prefer to have a feeder for each section of flex track, even though
the track has soldered joints. When a detection output feeds more than
one section of flex track, which is usually the case, I will use an
18 ga. wire ("sub-bus", if you will) from the card that runs to each
22 ga. feeder for the track.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Unusual or extreme reactions to events caused by negligence
are imaginable, but not reasonably foreseeable"
- Chief Justice Beverley McLachlin, May 2008
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid"

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 7, 9:59 am, Wolf K <weki...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Actually, I daisy-chain the terminal strips via the bus wire (in effect,

> > making them part of the bus line) ... one 6-8 post terminal strip for each

> > bus approximately every 3 feet.  Gives me a lot of flexibility for
> > connecting feeder wires.

To eliminate the "which Matt" confusion, I'll be MC ;-)

I do like the sound of this terminal strip approach a lot.

Let me be sure I have this correct. You cut the black bus. That, of
course, creates two separate ends to the black bus. You crimp a spade
onto these two newly created ends. You attach each of these spades to
each end of the terminal strip. You repeat the same process for the
red bus using its own terminal strip. And, you do this every 3 feet.

Diagram:
______black bus______[---------terminal strip---------]____black
bus_______[----------terminal strip------------]________end

_______red bus_______[---------terminal strip---------]____red
bus_______[----------terminal strip------------]________end

Do you lose some measurable voltage across each terminal strip???

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 7, 12:42 pm, Calvin Henry-Cotnam

<cal...@remove.daxack.ca.invalid> wrote:
> You will probably get slightly different answers from everyone, but here
> is what I do...

Thank you!!!

All of these suggestions and "proven approaches" have given me
extraordinary clarity as well as wonderful options to follow once I
begin.

I would like to end each bus wire with a crimped spade so the next
module (assuming one can be added) is an easy attachment: spade to
spade with a simple nut and bolt assembly, perhaps.

How is the bus attached to the booster??? a spade? a bare wire insert?

Many Thanks!
MC

[Matt]

The booster has a 4-hole plug. The two holes on the left are for power
in, the two holes on the right are for track power/dcc packets out. All
are bare wire inserted into the holes. Since I take off in two
directions from my center location, I take the two output track wires to
a terminal strip with spades. I use the two terminal posts on one end
for my "red" wire (the back rail in all cases), and the two terminal
posts on the other end for my "white" wire (front rail in all cases).
Note that these two posts on each end must be jumped together, since I
have the one input from the booster and two outputs to the bus (in each
case). The terminal posts in between *cannot* be jumped together (I
hope this is making sense!).

No need to try to get fancy when connecting modules. If your bus ends
in a terminal strip on each module, simply connect the terminal strips
between modules with a wire that has a spade on each end. On our
portable club layout this is basically what we do; we just make the
connecting wires permanent, with a male/female connector to snap
together when setting the layout up.

Matt

[Matt]

I've not noticed any appreciable voltage drop, but then I've never
measured it either. And yes, you have it correct.

Note that the terminal strips I'm familiar with
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/755/Terminal-Strips/1.html

have two rows of "posts" - connect all of the posts on the top row
together with wire, connect the bus line segments to each end of this
top row. The bottom row, then, is where you connect the track feeders.
Such terminal strips are available at Radio Shack, or most any
electronic supply store. If you have an electronic surplus store in
your area, you'll certainly find them there cheap.

HTH

Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 2:15 pm, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:
> have two rows of "posts" - connect all of the posts on the top row
> together with wire, connect the bus line segments to each end of this
> top row.  The bottom row, then, is where you connect the track feeders.

Perfect. The link/image helped a lot. I get it.

I thought these terminal strips ran horizontally. Now, with the image,
I see why you connect all of the top screws with wire to create a
horizontal strip. I like it. This is a winner for me. As you pointed
out, this will make the underneath quite clean and manageable. And,
with little to no voltage drop off from these periodic interruptions
in the bus wire, there seems to be no downside. Very nice!

Thanks So Much for sharing!!!
MC

And, thank you for describing the hook-up process to a booster. I was
interested because I have sketched three separate modules that I would
like to consider for assembly (one at a time). I'm thinking an 8'
maximum length for each (with a 30" depth). The three modules together
would create the letter "L" (that is the only way this small house
could ever accomodate 24' of mainline track). The first one (which
would be the middle module) would place the power at one end and the
bus ends at the other end. The second module built (if it is actually
built) would be attached at the appropriate end depending on which
module was built second. That would either place the power between the
two modules or at the far end of the two module design. It would be
one or the other, of course. I think I would prefer to have it between
the two modules. Therefore, I like your approach of running a short
wire from the power to a spade to a terminal strip. That makes it
simple to relocate the power after each module is completed.

This is all very interesting. As much as I enjoy the trains and
scratch building bridges and structures from found materials and etc.,
I must admit that the wiring and the LED lighting are equally
fascinating for me - there's something fun about figuring out a
creative wiring scheme, having it look very clean (even though it is
hidden from sight), and then having it work properly.

All of this feedback is helping me a lot and giving me many ideas to
explore.

Most Appreciated!!!
MC

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 2:07 pm, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:
> Since I take off in two directions from my center location, I take the two output track wires to
> a terminal strip with spades.

I believe I get it. You start with a single pair of wires (a red and a
white - you bus pair). However, since you are centered on the layout,
you require two pairs to run in opposite directions. So, you split
your red and your white with the use of a terminal strip which then
allows you to send a red and a white pair in opposite directions to
power the rails, etc.

I am guessing this simple terminal strip would do the trick. The top
and bottom middle screws would NOT be used. The end pairs would create
two reds and two whites to travel in opposite directions for your bus
wires.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/TS-202/2-POSITION-DUAL-ROW-BARRIER-STRIP-20-AMP/1.html


---------------------RED----O--------------right----->
I
<----- left------------------- O

O
I middle pair not used
O

------------------WHITE----O--------------right----->
I
<----- left------------------- O

[Matt]

You're quite welcome. I'm far from being a wiring expert, but thanks to
a good friend of mine, I can at least understand this process, and
troubleshoot (to a degree) if something goes wrong. Too, with the
terminal strips (and I had a bunch of them left over from a previous
layout), it does make it easy and simple to add track feeder wires as
needed. Just last week I dropped additional feeder wires on three
adjoining sections of track; underneath it only took a few minutes to
connect all of them to the appropriate terminal strips, and I was
confident that all would work correctly.

Incidentally, note that you can combine two feeder wires into one spade
terminal (I always solder and crimp on spade terminals, just as a matter
of course) before attaching to a terminal strip. This allows you to use
shorter terminal strips, and if you happen to have a lot of drops in one
area, you don't have to join two or more strips just to accommodate all
of the feeder wires.

HTH

Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 3:35 pm, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:
> Incidentally, note that you can combine two feeder wires into one spade
> terminal (I always solder and crimp on spade terminals, just as a matter
> of course) before attaching to a terminal strip.

Good to know. BTW, what level quality is your crimping tool? I have
seen a price range that was surprisingly significant from quite low to
exceedingly high. Given the importance of solid connections, I am
willing to spend the needed amount. That said, I'd rather not over
spend since the money is tight, and it can certainly go to other
needs.

Crimping tool:
Brand name?
Approx price?

Thanks!!!
MC

[Matt]

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Crimp-Tool-Wire-Stripper/dp/B0002I1Z8G/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1326062872&sr=1-9

(Watch the wrap).

Wire stripper and crimping tool all in one.

Mine has yellow handles, different brand name, but is identical to this.
You can find them at Home Depot, Lowes, places like that. Usually
less than $10. Sometimes you can find them packaged with 50-100 spade
terminals in different sizes.

Matt

[PV]

mc_br...@yahoo.com writes:
>I am pleased to read about your approach to attaching feeders to the
>bus wire. I had seen that imaged and described in an article, and it
>seemed like the ideal method. Your success using this approach has
>confirmed my choice to go this same route. Ditto on running the bus
>wires parallel but apart from one another like Matt stated earlier on
>in describing his approach. I was hoping that the "twisting" method
>was unnecessary - and it will be for me.

Good deal. I envy you the opportunity to start from scratch - an
established layout can accumulate a lot of wiring weirdness!

One thing that just popped into my head for you to think about is block
isolation. With the exception of reverses, you don't really NEED it on a
DCC layout, but one of the things you might want to do later is switch
automation, and if you do that, having isolated sections of track near
turnouts is very useful (so you can hang a current-sensing block detector
on them). Think about isolating the two trailing ends of all your turnouts,
and a section of track about 3 feet before the turnout. Read well the
section of wiringfordcc that talks about dcc-friendly turnouts. I use peco
insulfrog turnouts, and find them very reliable.

The simplest kind of automation is simply to flip a turnout so that if a
train is approaching a turnout from the 'choice' side, the frog gets set to
the right track all by itself. This borders on the advanced (you need a
computer, a locobuffer or the nce equivalent, and block detectors). Since
you're just starting, I wouldn't try to tackle any of that yet, but
eventually you're going to ask yourself, "self, it's kind of a pain to have
to watch the trains like a hawk and flip switches all the time. Can I have
the layout do the routine stuff itself?" The answer is yes, and it opens up
some really amazing stuff to do, including signaling systems and route
controls. *

[PV]

Matt <matt...@cox.net> writes:
>Don't really mean to play Devil's Advocate here, but I'd think 2-3 times
>about the whole process before attaching feeders to the bus wire. A lot
>of people do it, but to me it makes a lot more sense to put a spade
>terminal on the end of a wire and attach it to a terminal strip with a
>screw than to mess around soldering wires directly to your bus line... a
>lot neater, and a lot easier to make changes as required. DAMHIKT.

There's nothing wrong with that! Some people use suitcase connectors too,
which is an expensive but very attractive alternative. While you're setting
up, you don't really need to solder at all - you can just strip a couple
inches off the end of the feeder and wrap it tightly around the exposed bus
wire. It will work fine until you've finalized everything, and it's really
easy to remove if you've gotten into trouble, like finding you have an
unexpected reversing section. *

[PV]

mc_br...@yahoo.com writes:
>Crimping tool:
>Brand name?

One word to know, KLEIN. Lineman's pliers will do the job beautifully for
you. They have a blue handle and a funny squiggly shaped jaw on the
business end to accomodate the two most common types of crimp connectors,
and a wire cutter that you can do minor amputations with.

>Approx price?

Maybe 20 bucks? *

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 5:52 pm, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:
> http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Crimp-Tool-Wire-Stripper/dp/B0002I1Z8G/r...

Thank you for this link. Anything under $20 is a welcomed cost. I saw
some versions that were quite expensive, and I was hopeful that model
railroading would not require such an investment.

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 6:21 pm, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:

> mc_bren...@yahoo.com writes:
> >Crimping tool:
> >Brand name?
>
> One word to know, KLEIN.

Excellent. I will most certainly add them to my search list. They fall
right at the price ceiling which makes them a perfect possibility.

Thank you!!!
MC

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 8, 6:15 pm, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:
> ... but one of the things you might want to do later is switch automation

That does have a lot of appeal. This is one of the reasons I am trying
to be as careful as possible with the type of the wiring that I do. In
that way, future ideas, interests, and/or new module connections will
not require me to undo previous work. Using terminal strips, wire
spades, and some clear plastic track insulators on my switches should
produce a hassle free, future-proof wiring system. I hope.

I am the kind of person who does not like to return to a project once
a new project has been started. Recognizing this character trait, I
decided that I would build one module at a time, and complete it. It
will be an extraction from a much larger layout drawn on paper, but it
will be self contained, operational, and finished to the eyes and
electrically. Any additional module will merely extend the main line,
bring additional switching opportunties, and create more possibilities
to explore and experiment with different facets of modeling.

I am looking forward to this. I have to get past the first big
investment: the NCE DCC system. But, I do own a lot of Walthers Code
83 track, a dozen Walthers Code 83 switches (the older version), and a
decent collection of HO scale rolling stock. And, I have a handful of
DC engines that will need a decoder. Slowly, I am making forward
progress.

MC

[John Haskey]

In article <4f09eb61$0$21392$c3e8da3$96d6...@news.astraweb.com>,

Matt <matt...@cox.net> wrote:
>On 1/8/2012 11:03 AM, mc_br...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> On Jan 7, 9:59 am, Wolf K<weki...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>Note that the terminal strips I'm familiar with
>http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/755/Terminal-Strips/1.html
>
>have two rows of "posts" - connect all of the posts on the top row
>together with wire, connect the bus line segments to each end of this
>top row.

There are special jumpers that you can purchase to eliminate the need
to wire from post to post to post. Here is Radio Shacks version:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227

Makes things a little neater.

---john.

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 9, 3:33 pm, jo...@panix.com (John Haskey) wrote:
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227
>
> Makes things a little neater.

I am having trouble understanding that image. I'll visit a local Radio
Shack, and that will clear this up with ease.

Thank you!!!

I was imagining making tiny little jumper cables using a two inch wire
and two crimped spades.

I am surprised that they don't offer a horizontal terminal strip. Or
do they? One that simply connects all the top row screw heads and
likewise connects all the bottom row screw heads. That would remove
the need for jumpers. It would also make the continuation of a bus
wire very convenient. You attach the same bus wire to both ends of the
horizointal and continue on: ditto application for top and bottom.

[Matt]

On 1/9/2012 7:58 PM, mc_br...@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Jan 9, 3:33 pm, jo...@panix.com (John Haskey) wrote:
>> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227
>>
>> Makes things a little neater.
>
> I am having trouble understanding that image. I'll visit a local Radio
> Shack, and that will clear this up with ease.
>
> Thank you!!!
>
> I was imagining making tiny little jumper cables using a two inch wire
> and two crimped spades.
>

I strip the insulation off a section of wire (20 gauge is fine), screw
one end under the first terminal post, then wrap the wire to the next,
under the second screw, then wrap to the next, etc. until I get to the
other end. (Nobody ever told me about the jumpers, and it never
occurred to me to ask! The first one I saw was done with wire, so I've
always done it that way...live and learn).

Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 9, 11:05 pm, Matt <mattfu...@cox.net> wrote:
> I strip the insulation off a section of wire (20 gauge is fine), screw
> one end under the first terminal post, then wrap the wire to the next,
> under the second screw, then wrap to the next, etc.

That's a nice solution. Mini jumpers with crimped spades is another
possibility. One thing is for sure, I am convinced that terminal
strips are the best approach. I like that they offer an easy approach
to future additions and/or changes without having to undo soldering,
etc.

:MC

[PV]

Matt <matt...@cox.net> writes:
>> I was imagining making tiny little jumper cables using a two inch wire
>> and two crimped spades.
>>
>I strip the insulation off a section of wire (20 gauge is fine), screw
>one end under the first terminal post, then wrap the wire to the next,
>under the second screw, then wrap to the next, etc. until I get to the
>other end. (Nobody ever told me about the jumpers, and it never

One trick I came up with some years ago was this:
- remove one whole line of screws from the terminal strip
- cut a notch into each ridge of the that side with a dremel, even with
the screw holes
- lay in a line of stripped wire into the notch
- put all the screws back

It's a lot less messy than zigzagging the wires around, a lot less
likely to be accidentally shorted (since the wire is hidden under the
screws and stuck behind the ridges), and way cheaper than those jumper
things, which are really overpriced for what they are. If you have a long
power strip, you can leave one of the ridges uncut, and run two wires
instead of one, giving you half for one track wire, and half for the other.
This is also really nice for lighting, since you tend to run a lot of
little wires. *

[Matt]

Creative - I like it!!

Matt

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 10, 11:04 am, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:
> One trick I came up with some years ago was this: ...

This comment struck me as one of the many enjoyable aspects of model
RR'ing. It allows for this type of fun, creative thinking. I have
marveled for years at the many creative ideas that modelers have
discovered and implemented in their layout design. You see them in
magazine articles, you see them on various layouts as a visitor, and
you read about them in forums such as this.

It truly is a hobby with many levels, and this is why I so enjoy it.
You define your interests and your interest level, and you model
accordingly. You can buy most everything; or, you can build most
everything; or, you can fall somewhere comfortably in-between those
two extremes. And, now, with Youtube, the sharing aspect has improved
exponentially. There are some videos that I find fascinating to watch.
I'll return to them frequently for inspiration and/or ideas.

:MC

[John Haskey]

In article <0a357c84-9ad6-44b1...@k29g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,

<mc_br...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Jan 9, 3:33 pm, jo...@panix.com (John Haskey) wrote:
>> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103227
>>
>> Makes things a little neater.
>
>I am having trouble understanding that image. I'll visit a local Radio
>Shack, and that will clear this up with ease.

Here's a shot of a similar product to that which Radio Shack sells:

http://haskey.com/johnh/barrier_strip_with_bus.jpg

In this case I cut the jumper bar to give me two, two position contacts.

---john.

[PV]

mc_br...@yahoo.com writes:
>On Jan 10, 11:04 am, pv+use...@pobox.com (PV) wrote:
>> One trick I came up with some years ago was this: ...
>

>It truly is a hobby with many levels, and this is why I so enjoy it.
>You define your interests and your interest level, and you model
>accordingly. You can buy most everything; or, you can build most

True. Mostly I don't care much about the actual trains, but making the
layout work electronically for my dad and cousin turned into a very fun
hobby all by itself. *

[PV]

jo...@panix.com (John Haskey) writes:
>Here's a shot of a similar product to that which Radio Shack sells:
>
>http://haskey.com/johnh/barrier_strip_with_bus.jpg
>
>In this case I cut the jumper bar to give me two, two position contacts.

Yeah, I really dislike those jumper things. Besides selling for too much,
they make a nice insulated barrier strip into a short circuit waiting to
happen. *

[Nick Fotis]

Hello there,

our modular railroad group uses for bus wire generic soundspeaker cable
(black/red) for easier coding and connection of modules
('if I plug the black in right on the module entrance, then the black is
expected to be in right on the module exit').

We do not demand a continuous "red=left, black=right" code for example,
since modules can be mounted in the reverse direction.

We usually follow the mantra 'the thicker, the better'
(at least, what can fit into the banana plugs that we use).

At each module (normally 3-4 feet in length), we solder at least one
pair of wires to the tracks and screw these on terminals where the bus
wire connects.

Our modules currently are in an elongated 'S' arrangement (with an
appendix on the center triangle module), and the power is provided by a
Roco starter kit DCC system (multimaus) connected at one edge of the
'S', without additional boosters (the starter kit provides 50 VA or 3.2
Amperes).

There are typically around 7 trains on the layout (most of these waiting
on a yard, some with lighted wagons), and we didn't see any
voltage-related operating problem at the far edge (25 meters, total
route length 31+ meters, or nearly 100 feet).

We have watched power-supply limits, though, when there are multiple
steam locomotives with sound and steam generators running while the
other trains are parked, so we'll add another 'multimaus' booster to the
mainline part for additional amperage. This *may* solve the problem we
watched, we'll see.

Cheers,
N.F.

[Nick Fotis]

By the way, here is a photo of our banana plugs (4mm variant, if I
remember correctly):

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4517/img0807smallip8.jpg

These are the 'hermaphrodite' type (both female and male roles can be
played) :-)

If you are sure that the set-up of the modules will be on a particular
sequence, you can use male/female plugs in sequence, which are more
protected to short-circuits compared to the male connectors plugging
into each other.

And typical plastic wire terminals that our group uses are like this:
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2950/img0808smallys0.jpg

We just screw the large bus wires together with the feeder wires,
without any problems. If the feeder (solid core) wires are too thin, you
may have to twist these carefully together with the stranded bus wire
for a better contact

Recently, I found a very nice pair of twisted cable with a solid core
used by phone companies inside exchanges, that is excellent for feeder
wire and it is colour-coded: orange and grey.
So I connect orange to red and grey to black, keeping a consistent wiring.

Cheers,
N.F.

[Calvin Henry-Cotnam]

Nick Fotis (nick....@gmail.com) said...

>
>If you are sure that the set-up of the modules will be on a particular
>sequence, you can use male/female plugs in sequence, which are more
>protected to short-circuits compared to the male connectors plugging
>into each other.

I don't know how secure your connections are once in place, but if there
is even the slighest chance that the exposed male ends might short, you
might consider making protective sleeves from short pieces of styrene
tubing.

Use a diameter of tubing that gives a friction fit that is not too
tight and just slide them over the exposed plugs.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Unusual or extreme reactions to events caused by negligence
are imaginable, but not reasonably foreseeable"
- Chief Justice Beverley McLachlin, May 2008
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid"

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 11, 1:25 pm, Nick Fotis <nick.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> By the way, here is a photo of our banana plugs

N.F.,

Thanks for these neat ideas and the images. It is always great to see
an image.

[Nick Fotis]

On 12/01/2012 16:31, mc_br...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for these neat ideas and the images. It is always great to see
> an image.

My pleasure.

Here is a photo of the current set-up:

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/6200/dsc0269gv.jpg

And some spots from the modules:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6681699709_6c4bf90428_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7155/6681703787_0b8086e013_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7141/6681707093_303c54e8fc_b.jpg

Enjoy,
N.F.

[mc_br...@yahoo.com]

On Jan 12, 12:08 pm, Nick Fotis <nick.fo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Here is a photo of the current set-up:

Great pics!!! Thanks for sharing!

Did someone use a static grass unit? The grass looked very nice.

:MC

[Nick Fotis]

Nope, this is ready-made grass mat from Noch.

There are varius variants ready, we glue these with diluted white glue.

You can make foot/car-paths easily, if you wet the area with water -
then you can scratch the mat where you want it being naked.

Some photos from the use of this ready-made grass mat while we did a
seminar on module construction and landscaping:

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/6264/img0765smallge4.jpg

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/2319/img0766smallns0.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1484/img0780smallgj7.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7034/img0795smallzl9.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6263/img0950smallqy9.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/4382/img1141smallvw5.jpg

Cheers,
N.F.