basic question
RichD
I know this is supposed to be done with oil.
But... what kind of oil? The 'advice' never specifies.
How to apply? Should the oil film be as thin as
possible, does it matter?
If I oil a folder, can I store it folded?
other tips?
Thanks,
--
Rich
Polymer Man
Most any oil will do, WD40 works. I use the little bit of mineral oil
left from sharpening on the oil stones, rubbed off with a towel, the
residue is enough.
Slick, dripping, wet with oil is not the right idea. Because it will
quickly become a dusty, lint covered oily sticky mess.
There is a product called Renaissance Wax that is good from both wood
and steel. It dries hard instantly and leaves a nice water proof sheen
that resists finger prints. I've started using it.
Now, for long term storage, I don't know.
Good Soldier Schweik
<ncaro...@tecrep.com> wrote:
>On Jun 8, 11:11�pm, RichD <r_delaney2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> I'd like to protect some of my knives from rust.
>> I know this is supposed to be done with oil.
>>
>> But... what kind of oil? �The 'advice' never specifies.
>>
>> How to apply? �Should the oil film be as thin as
>> possible, does it matter?
>>
>> If I oil a folder, can I store it folded?
>>
>> other tips?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --
>> Rich
>
>Most any oil will do, WD40 works. I use the little bit of mineral oil
>left from sharpening on the oil stones, rubbed off with a towel, the
>residue is enough.
I used to believe the hype that WD-40 is a good rust protection. Until
I coated some router bits with WD-40 and left them in a closed plastic
container. About a year later I opened the container and the WD-40 had
dried and the bits had a surface coating of rust.
WD-40 does work well for freeing dirty or corroded items and may well
protect from rust in the short term but it is not the thing for long
term storage.
>
>Slick, dripping, wet with oil is not the right idea. Because it will
>quickly become a dusty, lint covered oily sticky mess.
>
>There is a product called Renaissance Wax that is good from both wood
>and steel. It dries hard instantly and leaves a nice water proof sheen
>that resists finger prints. I've started using it.
>
>Now, for long term storage, I don't know.
cheers,
Schweik
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)
Michael Koblic
which, as far as I can tell, is a cloth soaked in mineral spirits (Varsol)
and overpriced by a factor of ten or so. Which brings us back to WD40 or any
of the currently accepted (gun) protectants: G96, Boeshield etc.
There have been some interesting trials out there comparing various products
in a semi-scientific manner (Google is your friend). There have been
extensive discussions on the subjects on various fora (Warriorforum comes to
mind).
I did an interesting experiment myself out of curiosity as I make metal
items which I want protected against elements. I also discovered by accident
a way to speed up corrosion - I made a corrosion chamber by squirting some
diluted HCl into an empty box of Ferrero Rocher. If you leave any iron in
there for 24 hours it is guaranteed to rust.
I found that all the waxes and gunoil preps that I tried did not impede rust
much. The most effective were Penetrol (but one coat was not enough) and
strangely Future (Pledge) Premium Floor Finish - two coats did pretty well.
The last two, however, would not be suitable for knife conservation and
storage which, hopefully, would present conditions far removed from my
corrosive chamber.
My collection of 70+ knives is generally protected by whatever oil I have to
hand, applied when I happen to remember. I have had only two cases of mild
rust: One on a bead blasted SOG blade and one on the handle and scabbard of
the Cold Steel 1796 cavalry sabre, the latter in places where I handled it.
All the other blades, even those permanently in sheaths have been fine.
BTW Campbell River is probably the wettest place in Canada but the house is
kept reasonably dry :-)
--
Michael Koblic
Campbell River, BC
"Polymer Man" <ncaro...@tecrep.com> wrote in message
news:ea8c4f7b-0eeb-4e46...@w40g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
Greg Wormald
go for rust prevention--but it's not an oil.
Store your folders folded, and your fixed blades away from any leather.
For lube on the pivots I am now using some high pressure, high
temperature, water resistant, food grade grease that was recommended for
the moving parts inside my espresso machine. It is much 'smoother' than
any oil or dry lube, but not as 'loose' feeling.
Greg
Rick Corey
prevention. I have heard the claim that it actually attracts water from the
air.
I swear by "RIG" (a silicone-rich rust-inhibiting grease) but it is no
longer made.
I wonder if "Cosmoline" is commerically available?
Wood workers speak well of Johnson's Paste Wax , but avoid the sort for
floors, which contains grit.
I would guess that "any oil" and "any non-acid wax" would work almost
equally well. Consider 3-in-1 household oil, motor oil or mineral oil. Just
avoid fingerprints (acid).
Rick Corey
"Good Soldier Schweik" <decypher....@sig.line> wrote in message
news:i0vt25lct050u206q...@4ax.com...
Good Soldier Schweik
wrote:
>I have heard mnay people (especially gun people) bad-mouth WD-40 for rust
>prevention. I have heard the claim that it actually attracts water from the
>air.
WD-40 is basically a deodorized kerosene like hydro-carbon and it is
doubtful that it attracts moisture, at least I've never seen evidence
that to made thing rust faster and at least one shop I worked at used
it to spray guns with. Not for long time storage but to make sure that
we didn't get sweaty finger prints on a guy's $1,000 shotgun.
>I swear by "RIG" (a silicone-rich rust-inhibiting grease) but it is no
>longer made.
>I wonder if "Cosmoline" is commerically available?
The trouble is that anything that really is going to work, long term,
is messy and hard to clean off. One shop used some sort of plastic
stuff. Heat it up in a pot and dip the part. It left a rubbery sort of
coating that leaked an oily substance onto the part. Apparently good
for years and you could peel it off and reuse it.
But who wants a stinking hot pot on the kitchen table to dip knives in
:-(
>Wood workers speak well of Johnson's Paste Wax , but avoid the sort for
>floors, which contains grit.
>
>I would guess that "any oil" and "any non-acid wax" would work almost
>equally well. Consider 3-in-1 household oil, motor oil or mineral oil. Just
>avoid fingerprints (acid).
I used to use an "oily rag", probably 3-1 oil, to wipe down guns with.
It worked but I suspect that the secret was it got all the finger
prints off.
cheers,
Schweik
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)
deowll
"Rick Corey" <rick...@verizon.not> wrote in message
news:8BiYl.2005$u86....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>I have heard mnay people (especially gun people) bad-mouth WD-40 for rust
>prevention. I have heard the claim that it actually attracts water from
>the air.
>
> I swear by "RIG" (a silicone-rich rust-inhibiting grease) but it is no
> longer made.
> I wonder if "Cosmoline" is commerically available?
>
> Wood workers speak well of Johnson's Paste Wax , but avoid the sort for
> floors, which contains grit.
>
> I would guess that "any oil" and "any non-acid wax" would work almost
> equally well. Consider 3-in-1 household oil, motor oil or mineral oil.
> Just avoid fingerprints (acid).
>
> Rick Corey
>
>
Some people sware by hog lard. Actually animal fat works. Cosmoline is
patrolium jelly under another name.
RichD
> According to what I've read of the tests on the internet,
> EEZOX is the go for rust prevention--but it's not an oil.
>
> Store your folders folded, and your fixed blades away
> from any leather.
Why? Isn't leather the traditional sheath?
--
Rich
Good Soldier Schweik
>
>"Rick Corey" <rick...@verizon.not> wrote in message
>news:8BiYl.2005$u86....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
>>I have heard mnay people (especially gun people) bad-mouth WD-40 for rust
>>prevention. I have heard the claim that it actually attracts water from
>>the air.
>>
>> I swear by "RIG" (a silicone-rich rust-inhibiting grease) but it is no
>> longer made.
>> I wonder if "Cosmoline" is commerically available?
>>
>> Wood workers speak well of Johnson's Paste Wax , but avoid the sort for
>> floors, which contains grit.
>>
>> I would guess that "any oil" and "any non-acid wax" would work almost
>> equally well. Consider 3-in-1 household oil, motor oil or mineral oil.
>> Just avoid fingerprints (acid).
>>
>> Rick Corey
>>
>>
>
>Some people sware by hog lard. Actually animal fat works. Cosmoline is
>patrolium jelly under another name.
While "cosmoline" is certainly hydro-carbon based they must have
changes the composition if it now looks anything like petroleum jelly
as it used to be a sticky brown substance that once applied required
the aid of steam cleaning or a solvent to remove.
Not the soft, easily applied clear stuff one thinks of as "petroleum
jelly", e.g. Vaseline.
cheers,
Schweik
(goodsoldierschweikatgmaildotcom)
Michael Koblic
It is supposed to hold moisture and sometimes the chemicals used in
treatment of leather are said to contribute to corrosion. Certainly the
accepted wisdom is not to store knives in leather sheaths long term.
However, through lack of space, many of mine are kept in leather without any
discernible rust.
Greg Wormald
<9e945dc6-8ca4-42d1...@v23g2000pro.googlegroups.com>,
RichD <r_dela...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Leather makes a close to ideal 'carry' for many things, knives included.
For long term storage it is not a good idea as it is slightly
'hygroscopic' and will absorb and store water from the atmosphere. This
water will be kept close to your precious metal and even worse, can
combine with the tanning acids in the leather. It can also release the
water--right onto the blade, if the temperature drops.
Greg
Chas
>> Why? Isn't leather the traditional sheath?
Wood- they were often covered in leather or rawhide tho.
A leather 'scabbard' for a knife is targeted at daily use. The common
attention to your tools would prevent any rust- although you do want to
cultivate a patina on your carbon tool steel knife.
Acid based tannages like; 'chap' leather (chrome aniline tannage), 'apron'
leather (wax-packed oil tannage), some others; do not allow the leather to
do it's natural thing which is to carry away water by capillary action- to
'sweat'.
Everything becomes moot if you actually carry the knife to use.
>> For long term storage it is not a good idea as it is slightly
> 'hygroscopic' and will absorb and store water from the atmosphere. This
> water will be kept close to your precious metal and even worse, can
> combine with the tanning acids in the leather. It can also release the
> water--right onto the blade, if the temperature drops.
Nope.
The tendency of leather is to wick off moisture into the air.
Anything that feeds the leather is used to keep the leather cells doing
their job- sweating.
Remember that your goal is 'keeping the knife cosmetically'- fighting off
the natural inclination to patina. That is against the laws of Nature, so
it's really hard to do predictably.
The answer, of course, is Fondling.
Fondling your knives and sheathes and pistols and long guns and fancy
leather gear for Safari in Bhutan, keeps them from getting 'rusty'.
Or specify 440C for yer 'knives'.
--
Chas
http://www.jacksandsaps.com/