It is labeled as a Skeet B version (12g). Nice wood and clean.
The barrel has been threaded to receive scew in chokes, but I can not
find chokes to fit it. The only choke is an Imp. So I think it would
work like a skeet choke without any choke.
My main use will be dove.
I purchased a new Ruger Red Label 26" 12 g. with 5 chokes. A store was
going out of business,and I always wanted an o/u. This was the only
model available when I went. I got it for less than 1/2 of retail.
So what should I do with my 1100. To buy other chokes would cost $65
each for custom made brileys. By the time I buy 4, I could buy a new
barrel with chokes.
If I buy a new barrel, should I buy a 26" or a 28" to be different
from Red Label.
The stock was cut on the 1100 also to install a new pachmyar pad. If
it was original, except for the barrel, that has been threded, I would
look for an original barrrel to make it like an original for value.
I am still a beginner and heard that a longer barrel might help with
swing and acuracy.
Check these out
http://www.choketube.com/remington.html
Looks like you could get 4 for about $65.
That's not a good idea.
>
> Check these out
>
> http://www.choketube.com/remington.html
>
> Looks like you could get 4 for about $65.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I have tried chokes made for Remington, they don't fit. This is not a
factory barrel made for chokes. I believe it is a fixed skeet barrel
that was threaded by a gunsmith to receive screw in chokes. I went to
a gun store and none of the chokes they offered were a small enough
diameter to even try to screw in the barrel. So I was told that Briley
could measure the choke to make more. They would have to measure
diameter and thred count to match.
Although I have never tried it, I would think that you would screw up
the treads pretty quick by going without any screw in choke.
Don
>I have a used remington 1100, that I received as a gift, and do not
>want to part with.
>
>It is labeled as a Skeet B version (12g). Nice wood and clean.
>The barrel has been threaded to receive scew in chokes, but I can not
>find chokes to fit it. The only choke is an Imp. So I think it would
>work like a skeet choke without any choke.
No, it won't. First and foremost, don't fire it without any choke tube. That
said, while anything is possible, I doubt anyone would have truly "custom"
chokes made, and esp. not for a 1100. I suspect that it was threaded to receive
a "standard" pattern of threads for a "standard" screw-in choke system, such as
Briley, Hastings, etc. What are the marking(s) on the tube you have?
>
>My main use will be dove.
Have you patterned the gun with the tube you have? Improved is a reasonable
choice for dove, assuming it patterns right - some would say modified is better,
but realistically, the practical difference for most hunters is not much as far
as dove are concerned - only a few yards in practical effectiveness, generally
plus-or-minus a couple of yards on about 40 yards.
>
>I purchased a new Ruger Red Label 26" 12 g. with 5 chokes. A store was
>going out of business,and I always wanted an o/u. This was the only
>model available when I went. I got it for less than 1/2 of retail.
>
>So what should I do with my 1100. To buy other chokes would cost $65
>each for custom made brileys. By the time I buy 4, I could buy a new
>barrel with chokes.
IMO, about the only other choke you could even justify for _most_ dove shooting
in an 1100 is a full for 45-50 yards, assuming you need it and can consistently
hit and drop birds at those ranges. I'd not spend the money for a mod, skeet,
etc. to use the gun on dove if I had an IC.
>
>If I buy a new barrel, should I buy a 26" or a 28" to be different
>from Red Label.
Whichever you want - like the choke, it's probably not going to make a huge
difference with most dove hunting, but you have no preference, I'd go with the
28" for the longer sight plane, a slight increase in effective range (not much,
but...), and a little more swing weight in the front (it'll help you with
swing-through a bit). OTOH, if you _must_ have another barrel and it was a
choice between a 26" barrel and chokes for $50.00 and a 28" for $175, I'd go
with the 26".
>
>The stock was cut on the 1100 also to install a new pachmyar pad. If
>it was original, except for the barrel, that has been threded, I would
>look for an original barrrel to make it like an original for value.
Given what has been done, I'd say the value is a lot higher to you than to the
market. To be sure, it has value as shooter, but all putting replacement wood
and a replacement barrel will do, value-wise, is cost you money unless you
_really_, _really_ luck out on price (like under $100.00 or so for all - good
luck on that one). It's probably about a $350.00 gun now, and "restored" it'll
be about a $450.00 gun, both plus-or-minus about $50.00 - IOW, you most likely
will lose on the deal from a purely monetary standpoint.
>
>I am still a beginner and heard that a longer barrel might help with
>swing and acuracy.
See above - a little bit, but 26" vs. 28" isn't going to make a huge amount of
difference in this case.
Long story short, I'd take what you have, pattern it with a few different loads,
see what it does, and if shoots anything close to right with one or more of
them, use it as-is to go shoot a limit. If you do that (the patterning) and the
results are discouraging, post as such and we can go from there.
HTH,
Joe