Yugo M48 Mauser: How clean is clean enough?
Queff Himalaya
gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
I used up the whole 50-count box of cleaning patches cleaning the
bore. First, bore brush with solvent, then patches till they came out
mostly clean (about 3). Solvent-soaked brush again, then more patches.
Like I said, I went through the whole box of patches that way. At the
end, they were coming out pretty clean, but not spotlessly immaculate.
So the question: how clean is clean enough? Do they in fact nees to be
spotless after having been run through the barrel? Is that what I'm
looking for? Or is almost good enough? Or should I in the future skip
the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
As a side note, the dealer at the show said the kerosene is the best
way to take all the cosmolene off. Second opinions?
Thanks,
QH
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TomB
(Queff Himalaya) wrote:
#Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
#gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
#didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
#
#Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
#cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
#should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
#the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
#
#I used up the whole 50-count box of cleaning patches cleaning the
#bore. First, bore brush with solvent, then patches till they came out
#mostly clean (about 3). Solvent-soaked brush again, then more patches.
#Like I said, I went through the whole box of patches that way. At the
#end, they were coming out pretty clean, but not spotlessly immaculate.
#So the question: how clean is clean enough? Do they in fact nees to be
#spotless after having been run through the barrel? Is that what I'm
#looking for? Or is almost good enough? Or should I in the future skip
#the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
#
#As a side note, the dealer at the show said the kerosene is the best
#way to take all the cosmolene off. Second opinions?
#
#Thanks,
#QH
I'm pretty new at this as well and am still figuring out this milsurp
"cleaning" business. I'm wondering if you were involved for so long
because the bore was a mess when you bought it. I lost track of the
patches I went through trying to clean a newly acquired Mosin and
still wasn't happy with the result even though the patches were coming
through almost 100% clean. Sooooo, I went down to the local gun shop
and talked to the guys there. I left the shop with a can of
something called "Gun Scrubber". Made by Birchwood Casey. The guy
called it an "aggressive cleaner" and told me to spray it down the
bore from the receiver end while holding the barrel over a container
to hold the waste.
The result was nothing less than amazing. This stuff reminded me of
all the banned cleaners, from carbon tetracholoride to whatever was in
that amazing brake cleaner that got banned. This stuff came out very
dirty brown for the first few squirts, then just a little brown, and
finally clear. And this was after maybe 30 patches. After that
experience I used it on the receiver, bolt, everywhere.
I think that it's not something I'd want to use routinely as it really
is "aggressive" (and it ain't cheap!!!) but on a gun covered with
cosmoline it's downright amazing. I have two more milsurp rifles on
the way (M44 and 303 Enfield) and they will get the "Gun Scrubber"
treatment. I'll just add $16 to the price of the rifle and figure
that it's part of the acquisition cost.
It left the metal so clean that it was clear that there was absolutely
no rust protection left so I "over oiled" everything and am letting it
sit that way for now. I'll wipe it down after the oil has penetrated
everywhere.
As always, YMMV.
TomB
Jim Dauven
and cleaning.
Some maintain that the corrosive material is water soluble and
not soluble by mineral spirits (Cleaning solvent). It is the
opinion of this crowd that you should use hot water to clean the
rifle, and then finish off with solvent and light oiled patch.
Others maintain that cleaning solvent will get the corrosive
priming.
I've tried it both ways. With the M98 what you might want to do
is put a pot of water on the stove heat ot a rolling boil.
Place some detergent on a patch, place the muzzle of the rifle
in the hot water and run the cleaning patch from the chamber
end. The patch coming back up the barrel will bring the
hot water with it. Do this a half dozen times, change patches
to one that doesn't have detergent on it and run it up and
down the barrel a half dozen times.
Check the patch for foreign material on it. If it is discolored
do it again. Don't let the water cool down as you need the heat
to help dry the bore.
Once you have used the water use copper solvent on patches to
remove any copper spauling. When the patches comes out clean use
nitro powder solvent on patches to finish the cleaning. Always
finish out with a patch that has a light machine oil on it.
Also remember to clean your rifle for the next three days after
firing. The nito powder residue will sweat out of the pores of
the metal of the barrel. I don' think you should use hot water
again, just a patch or two with nitro powder solvent and finished
with a light machine oil patch.
The Independent
patch and do it again for a half do
Queff Himalaya wrote:
> ...
root
# Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
# gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
# didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
#
# Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
# cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
# should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
# the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
#
# I used up the whole 50-count box of cleaning patches cleaning the
# bore. First, bore brush with solvent, then patches till they came out
# mostly clean (about 3). Solvent-soaked brush again, then more patches.
# Like I said, I went through the whole box of patches that way. At the
# end, they were coming out pretty clean, but not spotlessly immaculate.
# So the question: how clean is clean enough? Do they in fact nees to be
# spotless after having been run through the barrel? Is that what I'm
# looking for? Or is almost good enough? Or should I in the future skip
# the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
While its possible the weapon was that dirty, I'd druther suspect that
you were using a brass/bronze bore brush rather than a nylon or
stainless one.
Admittedly the brass/bronze brush will cut more stuff faster than a
nylon one, but it will, under the influence of the cleaning solutions,
leave its own traces of blue on the patches when the bore itself is
essentially clean. Even the nylon brushes wound with brass wire have
been known to be a source of stained patches here.
For really agressive cleaning, the cutting power of a stainless steel
brush cannot be beat, but because of that cutting power, I'd certainly
use it spareingly. One trip thru wet (unscrew it from the far end of
the rod, don't pull it back through), 2 dry patches, repeat till the
1st patch has no blue stain. Be sure and start at at the chamber end.
# As a side note, the dealer at the show said the kerosene is the best
# way to take all the cosmolene off. Second opinions?
Works for me.
--
Cheers, Gene
A mostly retired old coot
Dennis Jenkins
patches wet with water down the bore before further cleaning
commences.
Dennis Jenkins
#Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
#gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
#didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
#
#Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
#cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
#should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
#the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
#
#I used up the whole 50-count box of cleaning patches cleaning the
#bore. First, bore brush with solvent, then patches till they came out
#mostly clean (about 3). Solvent-soaked brush again, then more patches.
#Like I said, I went through the whole box of patches that way. At the
#end, they were coming out pretty clean, but not spotlessly immaculate.
#So the question: how clean is clean enough? Do they in fact nees to be
#spotless after having been run through the barrel? Is that what I'm
#looking for? Or is almost good enough? Or should I in the future skip
#the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
#
#As a side note, the dealer at the show said the kerosene is the best
#way to take all the cosmolene off. Second opinions?
#
#Thanks,
#QH
Jim DeClercq
recent posting on what to do after firing corrosive primer ammunition.
The tool to use is a spray bottle of Windex, or equivalent, to wet your
cleaning patches with.
According to the paper reviewed by Hatcher, you will be OK if you keep
your gun in a very dry place. If the relative humidity ever gets over 50
percent, it will start, or resume, corroding.
It is not too late to use either water or Windex to clean that barrel.
Jim
Queff Himalaya <queffh...@hotmail.com> writes:
: Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
: gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
: didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
: Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
: cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
: should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
: the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
--
--
/"\ Jim DeClerc...@panix.com--Sylvania, Ohio, USA
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | I'm a .signature virus! |
X against HTML mail | Copy me into your ~/.signature|
/ \ and postings | to help me spread! |
.
Ronald Bloom
totally clean, with corrosive ammo, the question is not if the bore is
clean, it is if the salts from the priming compound are gone. Use a
funnel and plenty of hot, soapy water, pour it down the bore from the
breech, swap with dry patches, the bore will dry quickly with the hot
water gone through it, when it cools down put some hoppes in it, let it
sit overnight, then dry patches, then one oil soaked one, and you are
done. You can use less than a dozen patches for the whole operation.
.
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http://www.direct-action.org
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Mitch Barrie
#I left the shop with a can of
#something called "Gun Scrubber". Made by Birchwood Casey.
I think another term for that stuff is "brake cleaner."
Mitch
Jason Wagner
# cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
All of my milsurps, having fired corrosive ammo, get patches run through
with 50% Windex and 50% ammonia. Half a dozen soaked patches of that stuff,
let sit for a minute, followed by a "normal" Hoppes (or whatever) + patches
cleaning works well.
John Oliver
# If you shoot corrosive ammo then you need to at least run a cou;ple of
# patches wet with water down the bore before further cleaning
# commences.
I heard tell Windex is what you wanna use, that ammonia deactivates the
corrosive stuff.
--
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Trenton G. Twining
#
# Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
# gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
# didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
#
# Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
# cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
# should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
# the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.
#
# I used up the whole 50-count box of cleaning patches cleaning the
# bore. First, bore brush with solvent, then patches till they came out
# mostly clean (about 3). Solvent-soaked brush again, then more patches.
# Like I said, I went through the whole box of patches that way. At the
# end, they were coming out pretty clean, but not spotlessly immaculate.
# So the question: how clean is clean enough? Do they in fact nees to be
# spotless after having been run through the barrel? Is that what I'm
# looking for? Or is almost good enough? Or should I in the future skip
# the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
#
The longer the solvent is in the barrel, the better it works. I mop the
bore thoroughly ASAP after firing, maybe brush & mop a couple times, mop
really wet and let the rifle set muzzle-down on something absorbent over
night. Repeat the wet mop next day. On the third day I start real
cleaning by alternating wet patch, brush, dry patch. This has reduced
the number of patches by >80%. All the ammo I use for a couple of
rifles has been loaded w/corrosive primers. And this approach has kept
the bore as bright as when I bought them (one appears to have been
unissued).
--
"It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly one
begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit
facts."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, physician and writer (1859-1930)
Trenton G. Twining
max
#the patches and bore solvent and use boiling water?
There's a good short article on this at www.empirearms.com in the FAQ
section, to go with the good advice others are giving.
#As a side note, the dealer at the show said the kerosene is the best
#way to take all the cosmolene off. Second opinions?
I've used both kerosene and mineral spirits with good luck. I like to
follow them up with brake cleaner, which leaves the metal bone dry.
If you do this, you need to oil right away after to avoid rust.
max
J. Del Col
# Just bought a used (clearly NOT unissued) Yugoslavian M48 Mauser at a
# gun show. For an even $100, I'm told it was a steal, even though it
# didn't come with the bayonet and other accessories. It's my first gun.
#
# Took it out and fired about 35 rounds through it that afternoon, then
# cleaned it the next morning. Firing corrosive milsurp ammo... I know I
# should have cleaned it the same day, but hadn't had the chance to buy
# the cleaning kit. I'll be more prompt from here on out.....
Why people fire corrosive ammo anymore is a mystery to me. Seems like
a case of being pennywise and pound foolish.
Water is the -only- thing that will remove the potassium salts which
cause the corrosion. The hottest water you can stand is the best.
Some people claim that ammonia removes corrosive residue--it doesn't.
It removes copper fouling.
Non-corrosive boxer primed ammo in 8mm is easy to build, if you
reload.
J. Del Col
Bill Viverette
"J. Del Col" <delc...@mail.ab.edu> wrote "Why people fire corrosive ammo
anymore is a mystery to me. Seems like
a case of being pennywise and pound foolish"
Not really, J. Getting ammo at $0.07-$0.11/rnd shipped, and doing a simple
cleanup, makes a lot of sense to a lot of people. I suspect most of those,
like I, have considered reloading and don't see any real benefits.
TomB
<red...@goathill.net> wrote:
#On Mon, 1 Dec 2003 00:05:58 +0000 (UTC), TomB <tom...@pacbell.net> wrote:
#
##I left the shop with a can of
##something called "Gun Scrubber". Made by Birchwood Casey.
#
#I think another term for that stuff is "brake cleaner."
#
#
#Mitch
It works like the brake cleaner that I used to buy 10 years ago. They
pulled that stuff off the market. I don't know what was in it that
they decided was a no-no. But, yea, it works like that stuff. Some
kind of cloronated hydrocarbon.
TomB
Lynn K. Circle
six years. I'm no expert and my "collection" consists of seven
rifles. Moreover all of this was taught to me by the real experts on
the C&R mailing list:
1) Whenever you get a C&R military rifle, totally disassemble it
(including the bolt.) Degrease the metal with brake cleaner
(including the bore). Then lubricate it normally (light coat of
grease (lithium, Tetra, etc.) on interior bolt parts is good.)
2) If the stock shows heavy oil absorption (not usually case with
Yugo M48's due to the dense teakwood stock), be aware that shooting
may cause the stock to crack. At the least it will cause grease to
drip onto your hands and clothes once the stock gets heated from
firing. The best method I know of for cleaning such a stock is to
soak it in a hot-water solution of trisodium phosphate, then refinish
with a mix of 50-50 turpentine/linseed oil. A faster alternative is
to spray it with Oven-Off, let it stand for about 15 minute, and wash
off with a hose -- repeat as needed. If you use a sodium hydroxide
cleaner like Oven-Off, wash the stock down with vinegar before
refinishing. And alwasy let it dry at least a week before refinishing.
3) HAVE THE HEADSPACE CHECKED, UNLESS YOU BUY FROM A REPUTABLE
DEALER WHO ASSURES YOU IN WRITING THE HEADSPACE WAS CHECKED BY HIM.
You never know how much wear the barrel throat has, nor if it was
replaced by an indifferent craftsman. Too much headspace can make you
a very unhappy shooter.
4) Regarding corrosive ammo (Sov Block or the old Turk 8mm, for
example). After you are done shooting, remove the bolt and run patches
soaked in Windex through the hot bore until they come out clean. (I
used ammonia-based; some swear by the vinegar-based, so I assume it
doesn't make much of a difference). Wipe down the bolt face with a
Windex-soaked patch, too. Then run a dry patch through the bore, and
dry the bolt face. Finally, run an oil-soaked patch through the bore
and oil the bolt face. It takes about as long to do as it did for me
to type this -- at most another five to ten minutes. When you get
home, clean normally within a couple of hours of getting home.
I've been following this procedure for the past six years using
the cheapest most corrosive mil-surp ammo, and I have yet to have
found any corrosion or rust in my bores or on my rifles.
GOOD SHOOTING, ALL!
Lynn Circle
"Queff Himalaya" <queffh...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bqd2ck$ono$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
Jim Dauven
Bill Viverette wrote:
#
# "J. Del Col" <delc...@mail.ab.edu> wrote "Why people fire corrosive ammo
# anymore is a mystery to me. Seems like
# a case of being pennywise and pound foolish"
I don't think so. The low cost of the ammo is a good plus but
the being forced to take care of the rifle, and proper cleaning
will be a benifit even when you no longer shoot non-corrosive
ammo.
When I was an Army enlisted man I was taught by my tough
old Drill Sergeant (SFC Malava) still remember is name and can
remember his face and voice after 40 years, to clean my M-14
by taking it into the shower and using the hot water to remove
the dirt, mud and powder residue. After the shower we would
use the cleaning solvent with chamber brushes and bore brush
then finish out with a light coating of light machine oil.
The rub the stock with linseed oil.
The Independent
Queff Himalaya
Thanks for all the good advice. Kerosene did in fact do wonders on the
wood. Not even a little bit greasy anymore. Next question: relative
merits of lightly sanding the wood by hand, then maybe some Pledge or
similar product?
QH
Neil Maxwell
#Thanks for all the good advice. Kerosene did in fact do wonders on the
#wood. Not even a little bit greasy anymore. Next question: relative
#merits of lightly sanding the wood by hand, then maybe some Pledge or
#similar product?
The milsurp hardcore like to avoid sanding whenever possible to avoid
removing cartouches and character. There are a number of threads on
milsurp stock cleaning and finishing here:
http://pub113.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm34
Boiled linseed oil and tung oil are two of the more popular wood
finishes for these. I prefer BLO myself, but you may want to try
several products on some scrap wood to see which finish you like best.
Neil Maxwell - I don't speak for my employer
J. Del Col
# I
#
# #
# # "J. Del Col" <delc...@mail.ab.edu> wrote "Why people fire corrosive ammo
# # a case of being pennywise and pound foolish"
#
# I don't think so. The low cost of the ammo is a good plus but
# the being forced to take care of the rifle, and proper cleaning
# will be a benifit even when you no longer shoot non-corrosive
# ammo.
I take care of my rifles to the extent that I don't use potentially
harmful ammo in them. And I clean them thoroughly after each session.
The U.S. Army doesn't use corrosive ammo anymore, for damned good
reasons.
J. Del Col
J. Del Col
# queffh...@hotmail.com (Queff Himalaya) wrote in message news:<bqd2ck$ono$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
#
#
# Thanks for all the good advice. Kerosene did in fact do wonders on the
# wood. Not even a little bit greasy anymore. Next question: relative
# merits of lightly sanding the wood by hand, then maybe some Pledge or
# similar product?
Don't sand it unless you plan to refinish it with linseed oil. A very
light going over with ultra fine (#0000) steel wool is okay.
Forget Pledge. Use a good paste wax like Johnson's or Simoniz.
TomB
#Jim Dauven <jam...@web-ster.com> wrote:<bqifl4$7lu$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
##
## Bill Viverette wrote:
## #
## # "J. Del Col" <delc...@mail.ab.edu> wrote "Why people fire corrosive ammo
## # anymore is a mystery to me. Seems like
## # a case of being pennywise and pound foolish"
##
## I don't think so. The low cost of the ammo is a good plus but
## the being forced to take care of the rifle, and proper cleaning
## will be a benifit even when you no longer shoot non-corrosive
## ammo.
#
#I take care of my rifles to the extent that I don't use potentially
#harmful ammo in them. And I clean them thoroughly after each session.
#
#The U.S. Army doesn't use corrosive ammo anymore, for damned good
#reasons.
Seems to me that there are merits to both positions. I've bought four
rifles in the past couple of months, all with the intent of getting
back into shooting. They are all old milsurp and their condition is
suspect at best. So I'm going to fire milsurp ammo through them,
clean the barrels immediately with ammonia, then a good "normal"
cleaning when I get them home. Even if I don't manage to clean them
perfectly they will make nice wall hangers.
The most expensive rifle was about $115, and the average price was
about $65 - $70. Based on the value of the rifles it seems
appropriate to use equivalent ammo, keeping in mind that the idea is
to shoot a LOT of rounds through them working on my shooting stance,
trigger pull, smoothness, etc, not to put five rounds in a tight
pattern.
When I buy my first new, accurate rifle I'll move to non-corrosive
ammo, or perhaps learn to load my own. (Problem being that I'm in an
apartment so there isn't a lot of room and it's impossible to mount
anything permanent. I'll be retiring in a few years and moving to
Kauai where I'll have a house again and things will change.)
TomB
TomB
Col) wrote:
#queffh...@hotmail.com (Queff Himalaya) wrote in message news:<bqnpmd$i9f$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
## queffh...@hotmail.com (Queff Himalaya) wrote in message news:<bqd2ck$ono$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
##
##
## Thanks for all the good advice. Kerosene did in fact do wonders on the
## wood. Not even a little bit greasy anymore. Next question: relative
## merits of lightly sanding the wood by hand, then maybe some Pledge or
## similar product?
#
#Don't sand it unless you plan to refinish it with linseed oil. A very
#light going over with ultra fine (#0000) steel wool is okay.
#
#Forget Pledge. Use a good paste wax like Johnson's or Simoniz.
#
#
#J. Del Col
THANKS! That's what I've been thinking I'd try on the old MilSurp
rifles I've been buying. The metal on them is really pretty nice
(except the wire wrap on the Enfield) but the wood has been too long
sitting in oil and cosmoline.
TomB
Croatalus
that it was designed to clean weapons that fired ammo with corrosive
primers. The military doesn't issue RBC anymore, but there seems to be a
lot of it available. I have quite a bit myself. Any thoughts?
Bill VH
<carto...@mindspring.com> writes:
#
#How does GI Rifle Bore Cleaner (RBC) do on corrosive ammo? I had heard
#that it was designed to clean weapons that fired ammo with corrosive
#primers. The military doesn't issue RBC anymore, but there seems to be a
#lot of it available. I have quite a bit myself. Any thoughts?
#
#"
It works best when mixed with a LOT of elbow grease and used for three
consecutive days after firing. Truth is, it was used to swab bores in even
the largest artillery pieces. So corrosive primers probably weren't the major
reason for using it. How does it work in BP rifles?
Bill Van Houten (USA Ret)
Thermopylae had it's messenger of defeat, COME AND GET THEM !
The Alamo had none.
Stan Schaefer
# How does GI Rifle Bore Cleaner (RBC) do on corrosive ammo? I had heard
# that it was designed to clean weapons that fired ammo with corrosive
# primers. The military doesn't issue RBC anymore, but there seems to be a
# lot of it available. I have quite a bit myself. Any thoughts?
#
G.I. bore cleaner of the WW II and Korean war era, when corrosive
primers were king, will do the job. It contains water, which is
really all you need to get rid of primer salts. Not sure what else is
in it, probably some form of soluble oil. You were supposed to use the
bore cleaner, wipe dry and follow up with oil or grease(for long
storage).
I've used GI bore cleaner for corrosive primed ammo cleanup, it works.
Hot water is cheaper and lots less smelly.
Stan
Croatalus
of the Turkish 8mm that's being sold now. I've been hesitant to shoot it since I
found very affordable Igman and Sellier & Bellot 8mm available. At some point
I'd like to burn it up and get rid of it so I wanted to know what I could do to
prevent damage to my rifle(s).
Thanks,
Max
Bill VH wrote:
> ...
Croatalus
I'll keep that in mind. It appears that there are several very economical methods for cleaning
firearms after firing corrosive ammo. I think that I'll try a combination of them for optimal results.
Thanks,
Max
Stan Schaefer wrote:
> ...
Jim Gaynor
fomulation the RBC still is? I've used it myself but that would have to be
some kind of mircacle of shelf life. The govt didn't surplus it for no
reason.
"Stan Schaefer" <Sta...@americanisp.net> wrote in message
news:brtgg1$r3t$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
news:<brpi9m$gtc$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
> ...
a