You have enough guns that you are not going to pack them all around with yo
u to visit various gun shops and I suggest that having strangers into your
house to look at them is not the wisest idea. So I suggest you start by do
ing an inventory. =20
Most owners of many guns have one, so look around for a list of guns that y
our father may have made, because that list will contain the information yo
u are going to need to start establishing approximate current values. Each
inventory listing will probably contain (1) Manufacturer (if known or mark
ed), (2) Model (if known or marked), (3) Bore diameter or Cartridge size id
entification (usually marked on barrel) and (4) serial number (if present).
Firearms (usually old. black powder, muzzle loading) which are not marked
should be given a descriptive inventory listing such as, (SxS Shotgun, muz
zle loading, about 14 gauge, percussion, unknown maker, antique very good c
ondition). =20
Look for the list in hopes you might get lucky. Likely it is in some form
of ledger either with the guns or in a separate safe or safe deposit box or
possibly with his insurance agent or records. If your father's estate was
probated, it probably can be found in probate records. If an inventory ca
n be found, get a bunch of string-tie (not wire tie) tags and attach a tag,
writing inventory ID information for each firearm onto the tag and attachi
ng it to the trigger guard, matching each to an inventory item as you do so
. =20
You want string-tie tags because wire may scratch the metal finish. =20
Note that an inventory your father made probably includes at least some inf
ormation about each firearm that a newbie like you would have a hard time f
inding on the gun itself and it would be very likely that he included a val
ue at the time he did the inventory. If he included a value, it is probabl
y worth more today. As you tag each gun, all you have to do is discover en
ough information to be sure you have matched inventory data to the right fi
rearm. =20
If no inventory already exists, I would start with the tagging process, bui
lding the inventory as I went, and always as I go along updating the tag an
d inventory listing with new or corrected data as I got it from different s
ources. Since you will not necessarily know correct descriptive terms, I s
uggest your inventory list be a spiral notebook where you reserve a page fo
r each gun. Later, you can go back through and extract a much tidier inven
tory in a database like format.
Gun values are very dependent on condition, but a correct condition rating
requires a fair amount of knowledge and experience. So I suggest you comme
nt upon each weapon's condition with appropriate words like - "looks brand
new", "really nice", "cracked wood", "old, scratched, and badly dented", "o
bviously broken", "really pretty", etc. These may be enough for an expert
to approximate a condition rating range from the inventory alone.
You said you have had the guns for several years. Rust happens. As you do
the inventory, I suggest you find your father's gun cleaning rod(s), some
bore patches, gun-oil and a couple of clean, dry rags. As you handle each
gun, wipe, lock, stock, and barrel down with a (more or less) clean dry rag
, run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel a couple of times, and light
ly wipe all exterior metal with another rag that is just a touch oily. Thi
s will help keep the guns from rusting. DO NOT try to clean up any gun bey
ond a light wiping with a soft rag unless you have some truly expert guidan
ce on when and how to do so. This is really important to preserving the va
lue of antique guns where patina appropriate to age matters greatly to most
collectors. =20
Now, take at least several pictures of each gun with a digital camera, incl
uding a card with an inventory ID so that you know what the pictures are o
f. Now you can cart your pictures and inventory notebook to a gun store or
gun show or gun auctioneer. Assuming you are not an idiot and the pictures
are OK, anyone worth their salt ought to be able to ID each (except for ve
ry rare) gun, correcting your mistakes and/or standardizing references, do
a rough, but accurate, condition appraisal, and give you an approximate val
ue from one of several pricing guides. =20
"Everyday" factory guns absolutely clearly identified in say the Blue Book
pricing guide as worth a few hundred dollars probably is worth about what t
he guide says, give or take. For these I think Clark's advice is excellent
and a local dealer or pawnshop will price such items fairly with regard to
the local market.
Higher dollar guns, especially if there are pricing guide notes about rare
variations or recommendations to see an expert, and items you can not ident
ify that are finely made may be worth a lot. The really important thing to
know before you sell any is if any particular weapons are particularly val
uable, which usually means highly collectible. Local shops are far less li
kely to get good prices for these items. They just don't have the customer
s that will buy them for what they are worth.
My view of the gun business is a little cynical in that I think about 1 in
3 will cheat you if they can and about 1 in three is a really straight shoo
ter with most willing to take at least some advantage of anything they know
that you don't. So I suggest you start out seeking information only about
value, making it clear you are not selling anything to anyone until you ha
ve completed your value research. Get at least three supposed local experts
to go through your inventory/pictures, paying particular attention to anyt
hing that one or more of them might say or imply is of unusual value. Tryi
ng to buy one or more guns when you are seeking a value might be one clue.
Offering an attractive lump sum which is more than the average gun is wort
h for all is another. =20
When you know what you have, then special considerations in selling at leas
t some may be in order.