Any way to color brass?
Pjtg0707
pick them up after shooting
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Nicole Hamilton
# I am wondering if there is anyway to color brass in some
# way so I can pick them up after shooting
Magic Marker.
Nicki
Mike Corey
range box and mark the brass before shooting. Look at the shooters
around you and mark it different then theirs. I mark mine a solid black
on the head. With two or three colors you can be assured of a different
marking then anybody else.
"I may not have been the best president, but I sure had the most fun."
---Bill Clinton
Charles Scampoli
Pjtg0707 wrote in message <9b89tg$igh$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu>...
#I am wondering if there is anyway to color brass in some way so I can
#pick them up after shooting
#
Best idea I've seen in a while is to use a couple of the cheap plastic drop
cloths they sell at hardware stores. Place them in the area your shells are
being ejected into. Easy to find. Easy to gather up. Sure beats picking
them up out of the tall grass.
Chuck Scampoli
NRA Life
GOAL Life
Ranger1002
#pick them up after shooting
#
I assume you mean so that you know which brass is yours. A few times I just
took a Sharpie marker and ran a line down the primer side of the casing. If
your ammo is in a box like a factory box it doesn't take much to run a marker
down each row.
JEB
I use a purple magic marker and run it across the base of the case. Just
put them nose down in the box and run it across them. That is enough to
easily pick out my brass and pick it up.
JEB
Pjtg0707 wrote:
> ...
hamrdog
it can be done. what a lot of people do just to identify their own brass,
is to use a permanent marker (like a Sharpie) and draw a green or purple or
whatever color stripe across the bottom of the casing (on a loaded round, so
it covers the primer as well). this has no affect on the cartridges, and
makes it easy to tell your brass from someone else's (well, unless they pick
the same color as you).
andy b.
"Pjtg0707" <Pjtg...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:9b89tg$igh$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
DGRTEK
guess it's called a Sharpie? It helped him pick them out.
Douglas
Peter
Peter
Pjtg0707 <Pjtg...@netscape.net> schreef in berichtnieuws
9b89tg$igh$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
Klutz347
#pick them up after shooting
#
How about a marker or stamp pad? I mark the base of my rounds with a purple
stamp pad. makes ID real easy and it is quick to apply.
P. Roza
# pick them up after shooting
You could use nail polish on the base, or on the primer.
Edward Forrester
primers with a thinned down red nail polish, never seen anybody else use
both colours... makes it eassy to tell my brass
Ed
Gandalf
> ...
I've been color coding the heads of all my semiauto brass for years. All
you need to do is put them nose dow in a styrofoam tray, and run a
permanent marker over the head. I use one color for 380 ACP, another for
9mm, etc. This way, I can pick up my brass, and sort it as I pick it up.
Any brass I(mistakenly!) pick up that has no color on it goes into it's
own small paper bag, for sorting at home. It's amazing, sometimes. how
much brass I can come home with no color on it! The permanent marker
comes off in my corn cob tumbler. Occasionally, depending on the brand
and color of the marker, I may need to add an ounce or so of 95% rubbing
alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) to the media to get all the marker off.
endofwork
Pjtg0707 <Pjtg...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:9b89tg$igh$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
Pjtg0707
wrote:
#Just had a thought. Might not work, but how about easter egg die?
#
----snipped-----
Tried it, ..didn't work. Brass donesn't have pores like egg for dies
to penetrate. It's back to magic markers..
Joe Portale
brass cases, dip them in some weak phosphoric acid. Vinger and salt will
also do it, but it will take much longer. The case will turn into the
ugliestshade of pink you ever did see.
Joking aside, have you tried craft supply stores. They sell products to
patina brass and copper. This stuff comes in all sorts of colors. Note that
the color will not be deep, like a paint job, but it will work.
Joe Portale
Tucson, AZ
Pjtg0707 wrote in message <9bioao$clj$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu>...
> ...
David Rackley
I've never tried any of this, but would be interested in hearing
how things come out.
See attached home chemistry projects. Also see "Bennett's
Chemical Formulary" for more at home projects.
You can also buy metal marking fluids. Example ITW Fluid Products
Group, Glenview, Il 60025. 800 443-9536. Product name is Dykem.
www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/product/maintainence/product_info/appArea26/
You can also do a search on "metal marking fluids" and such.
Luck,
Dave
# The Coloring of Brass
# by Royce W. Beal
# written on 17 March 1995 specifically for the readers
# of the rec.guns newsgroup.
# questions should be directed to me at SL...@CC.USU.EDU
#
# Read this entire essay before attempting any one
# treatment. If you choose to just "cut and paste" part
# of this, please make sure you get the safety instructions
# and warnings after the recipes. Under no circumstances
# do I consider myself liable for any accidents which occur
# while using any of these chemicals. Also, I do not consider
# myself an expert in this field and am still doing research
# for the FAQ. This will be a temporary article. Because I
# am still experimenting, I cannot vouch for all of these
# colors.
#
# Concentrations and conditions DO matter. (Concentration
# is more important than actual volume, so if you want to
# use less, make sure that you use proportionately less of
# each ingredient) If you want good results follow the
# recipes closely. Above all it is important that the brass
# surfaces be clean. This means an extra hour or so in the
# tumbler for the cases and then touch them only sparingly.
#
# I have tried to collate recipes which will require the
# acquisition of the more common chemicals. I have also tried
# to steer clear of the really hazardous arsenic and cyanide
# salts (which you probably can't get anyway) If you feel
# that you've been cheated by this, please refer to the
# references section of this report and find the books for
# yourself in any well stocked library.
#
# It is my understanding that these are all surface
# coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass.
# Obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed
# brass. DO NOT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel)
# Glass or Plastic containers are the preference. If you are
# really worried about what this is going to do to your brass,
# refer again to the reference section below.
#
# TIFFANY GREEN:
# Copper Sulfate.................8 ounces
# Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
# Sodium Chloride................4 ounces
# Zinc Chloride..................1 ounce
# Acetic Acid....................2 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
#
# VERDE:
# Copper Nitrate.................16 ounces
# Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
# Acetic Acid....................1 quart
# Water..........................1 gallon
#
# GREEN:
# Iron ( ferric) Nitrate.........2 ounces ( Fe(III)(NO3)3)
# Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
# (use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed
# or the solution may be "painted" on)
#
# HARDWARE GREEN:
# Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........1 ounce (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
# Sodium Thiosulfate.............6 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
# (use at 160F)
#
# RED:
# Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........6 ounces (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
# Sodium hyposulphite............6 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
# (use at 170F will speed up this reaction)
#
# BLUE:
# Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces
# Lead Acetate...................4 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
# (use at boiling temperature)
# or
# Lead Acetate...................2 to 4 ounces
# Sodium Thiosulfate.............8 ounces
# Acetic Acid....................4 ounces
# Water..........................1 gallon
# (use at 180F. This color will change if
# not lacquered [DO NOT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES]
# Take your chances with the color change.)
#
# BLUE BLACK:
# Copper Carbonate...............1 pound
# Ammonium Hydroxide.............1 quart
# Water..........................3 quarts
# (Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide
# have been mixed. There must be excess Copper
# Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed
# (made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%
# Sodium Hydroxide solution.)
#
# BLACK:
# Ammonium Hydrosulfide...........2.25 ounces
# Potassium sulfide...............1 ounce
# Water...........................1 gallon
# (use at room temperature or COOLER for best results)
#
# BROWN:
# Potassium Chlorate..............5.5 ounces
# Nickel Sulfate..................2.75 ounces
# Copper Sulfate..................24 ounces
# Water...........................1 gallon
# (use at boiling temperature)
#
# SAFETY:
# 1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals.
# 2. Keep very far out of the reach of children.
# 3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and
# should not be stored with anything flammable.
# 4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor.
# Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can
# be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that
# you have breathed enough of it to feel
# uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a
# carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not
# underestimate this chemical.
# 5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or
# clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective
# clothing including glasses of some sort.
# 6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts
# can actually exceed the boiling point of water.
# The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous.
# BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BOILING SOLUTIONS.
# 7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation
# purposes but do not change the ingredients in any
# one recipe.
# 8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals.
#
# CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS:
# Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing
# with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces.
# 1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains
# 1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL
# 1 gallon = 3.785 L
#
# REFERENCES:
#
# Meyer, Walter R. title: Plating and Finishing Guidebook
# ninth edition - 1940 pp.72-75 (cited)
#
# Metal Finishing Guidebook twenty-eighth edition - 1960
# article by Hall, Nathaniel title: Coloring of Metals pp. 477-479
# (cited)
#
# Krause, Hugo title: Metal Coloring and Finishing (not cited)
#
# Hiorns, A. H. title: Metal Coloring (not cited)
#
# Field, S and Bonney, S.R. title: Chemical Coloring of Meta
# ls (not cited)
# -Royce
#
flimflam
green.
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---------- George S. Patton
Michael Kawalek
has all sorts of chemical recipes for doing just about anything. There were
many recipes for coloring brass. For example, mix 150 grains potassium
chlorate and 150 grains copper sulfate in 1 quart of water. Dip brass for
varying periods of time to get orange to cinnimon brown color. It mentioned
getting blue, green, violet, red, and greys by varying the chemical mix. Too
many to list here. If you want a specific color, mention it, and I could get
back to you.
Michael
thumper
the structure of (weaken) the brass in some way? (that's what I would be
worried of!). Interesting thread though!
Michael Kawalek wrote:
#
# I found a book entitled "Fortunes in Formulas" 1957, published by Books Inc. It
# has all sorts of chemical recipes for doing just about anything. There were
# many recipes for coloring brass. For example, mix 150 grains potassium
# chlorate and 150 grains copper sulfate in 1 quart of water. Dip brass for
# varying periods of time to get orange to cinnimon brown color. It mentioned
# getting blue, green, violet, red, and greys by varying the chemical mix. Too
# many to list here. If you want a specific color, mention it, and I could get
# back to you.
# Michael
--
"And so castles made of sand fall into the sea...eventually."
douglas trabue
#
# I found a book entitled "Fortunes in Formulas" 1957, published by Books Inc. It
# has all sorts of chemical recipes for doing just about anything. There were
# many recipes for coloring brass. For example, mix 150 grains potassium
# chlorate and 150 grains copper sulfate in 1 quart of water. Dip brass for
# varying periods of time to get orange to cinnimon brown color. It mentioned
# getting blue, green, violet, red, and greys by varying the chemical mix. Too
# many to list here. If you want a specific color, mention it, and I could get
# back to you.
# Michael
What does this and all the other chemical treatments do to the brass?
You don't want to change the properties of the case to much.
Doug T
Pjtg0707
Kawalek) wrote:
#I found a book entitled "Fortunes in Formulas" 1957, published by Books Inc. It
#has all sorts of chemical recipes for doing just about anything. There were
#many recipes for coloring brass. For example, mix 150 grains potassium
#chlorate and 150 grains copper sulfate in 1 quart of water. Dip brass for
#varying periods of time to get orange to cinnimon brown color. It mentioned
#getting blue, green, violet, red, and greys by varying the chemical mix. Too
#many to list here. If you want a specific color, mention it, and I could get
#back to you.
#Michael
-----snipped----
I am thinking of several colors but don't have any preference or
specific colors in mind. I mainly want to color the brass for each
rifle I reload, so I only use them in their intended rifles once
they're fire-formed.
k8do
base/primer... I do only handguns and as a batch of 50 finished rounds is in
the plastic carrier I use the colored markers and just swipe a stripe along
the bases...
In my case for target loads, blue is run both directions, column and row,
forming a blue cross on the base... Other colors are used in various
combinations, with black/black, yellow/black, yellow/yellow, etc., being a
major power loads for PPC, IDPA, pins, etc... Yellow/red being a specific
magnum load, and red/red being a max pressure load, etc... I made up a look
up table so that I can quickly reference powder type and load level...
Bullet weight/type <or other info> could also be indicated by coloring the
base a solid color and then running various colored stripes acros the
base.... Have fun
Denny