Dropped in my Cougar 8045 (sans grips) and let it sit while I ate dinner.
This gun needed some serious cleaning after the last tin can war. I pulled
it out, brushed it a little, and sat down to give it a "real" cleaning.
Suffice to say, the gun was already cleaner than it had ever been before.
Even old crud in the barrel (that I didn't know was there 'cause it never
came out on patches) came loose. I especially like that crud and dirty oils
in tiny spaces I normally could hardly reach came out in the soaking -- zero
effort.
I am a complete convert. Soaking beats the heck out of hours of scrubbing.
One question: would it help, hurt or make no difference to substitute
lacquer thinner for the acetone?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can learn about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns
Congrats on your success. I may give it a shot myself someday, but I'm
sticking with the mineral spirits for right now. You've got to soak a
few hours longer, but it still does the job.
I have a question for the Ed's Red users out there -- why the other
stuff in addition to the acetone? I'm no chemistry major, but acetone
is one aggressive solvent, far more aggressive than any of the other
ingrediants. I suspect it's doing most of the cleaning. I used to use
the stuff myself to soak parts I didn't want to scrub (like 10/22 bolts,
so filthy I didn't want to touch them) and it worked great. The only
reasons I gave it up were the toxicity and smell. I'm thinking the ATF
and kerosene are there for corrosion protection, but I AM curious.
I personally would drop the acetone, mainly because it is so volatile.
I'm sure the acetone really helps the cleaning process. If you leave
out the acetone, you could mix the stuff in standard containers.
Acetone disolves all but specialty plastics and stinks up my garage.
I use Ed's Red to clean my 1911's just the same way you did. The ATF
leaves a nice film that lubricates and prevents rust in places hard to
get to.
Thank you
Don Abernathey
I don't know the specific answer to your question but I do know
that some chemicals don't like getting mixed together and the
results can be surprising. Having a sorted history of mixing
various chemical substances together in a demented effort to get
a stable explosive (only for blowing out stumps of course) taught
me caution in this regard.
As far as Ed's goes, it works well, why bother?
Strider
Ron Seiden wrote:
> ...
--
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Goop and similar products contain lanolin. Maybe do some experimenting and
put in a bit of Goop.
Big Daddy Rishar wrote:
# stuff in addition to the acetone? I'm no chemistry major, but acetone
# is one aggressive solvent, far more aggressive than any of the other
# ingrediants. I suspect it's doing most of the cleaning.
Bascially, each solvent used has a certain level of polarity. Acetone, is
somewhat polar, and can dissolve polar "junk" on your gun parts better than
kerosene, which is virtually non-polar, can. At the same time, kerosene,
comprising of mostly n-dodecane and several benzene and naphthalene derivatives
(at least from my analysis on a GC/MS), is considered a non-polar solvent, and
can dissolve the "greasier," non-polar contaminants better than acetone can.
Those contaminants on your gun parts are going to be a mixture of polar and
non-polar compounds, and the use of both acetone and kerosene helps wash off
more than either alone.
# so filthy I didn't want to touch them) and it worked great. The only
# reasons I gave it up were the toxicity and smell.
Actually, the hazard of kerosene is greater than that for acetone. In fact,
your body generates a small amount of acetone when breaking down amino acids.
At least acetone quickly evaporates, and that if it gets on your skin, not too
much gets through compared to kerosene, on the other hand, being much less
volatile (although the fumes *can* give you dizziness and nausea, followed by a
possible coma in LARGE amounts), and stays on your skin, defattening it by
literally ripping out the lipids that help keep your skin together, opening up
your previously intact skin to all sorts of infections by airborne things.
Now, before anyone panics, or calls me crazy and paranoid, I am talking about
very large amounts here, and that the amounts you normally come in contact with
when cleaning your guns, isn't going to do all of this overnight! Of course,
you should be wearing rubber gloves when cleaning your firearms.
Indeed, the power of soaking is very powerful. All bore cleaners, gun oils,
copper solvents, CLPs, ect. need some degree of time for soaking. My favorite
stuff I like to soak guns in is G 96 Complete Gun Treatment.
http://www.g96.com Steve H -- http://www.bigfoot.com/~S_C_Horn
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Before you buy.
# >One part each of ATF, acetone What is ATF?
#
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
--
"Of what service would militia be to you, when most probably you will not have a single musket in the State; for as arms are to be provided by Congress, they may or may not furnish them?"
-Patrick Henry, 5 June 1788
Ron,
Regarding your question about substituting lacquer thinner for the
acetone, I'm pretty sure that's okay. In fact, IIRC, in the recipe you
should already have one part mineral spirits (same thing, right?) in
addition to all the other ingredients you've used. You can leave the
acetone and lanolin out, so says the FAQ.
Did you drop in the whole trigger mechanism, slide and all? I was
thinking of trying that, too, but there are parts in my slide that are
nearly impossible to clean out afterwards without extensive
disassembly. I'm also concerned about the polymer frames. What do you
guys think?
Andy
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Automatic Transmission Fluid. I believe the recipe called for Dextron
II, but I'm not certain.
-=<MIDNIGHT WRITER>=-
--
"I have the simplest of tastes. I am always satisfied with the best."
-- Oscar Wilde
emd...@hockey.net Mpls./St. Paul, MN, USA
If not I think I can send them to you copied from Ed himself off the old
fido net bbs.
# I have a question for the Ed's Red users out there -- why the other
# stuff in addition to the acetone? I'm no chemistry major, but acetone
# is one aggressive solvent, far more aggressive than any of the other
# ingrediants. I suspect it's doing most of the cleaning. I used to use
# the stuff myself to soak parts I didn't want to scrub (like 10/22 bolts,
# so filthy I didn't want to touch them) and it worked great. The only
# reasons I gave it up were the toxicity and smell. I'm thinking the ATF
# and kerosene are there for corrosion protection, but I AM curious.
#
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II or IIe ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, or Stoddard Solvent,
Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9 (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, aka
Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal or
chemical-resistant PET pr PVC plastic container. Do NOT use
HDPE, as it is breathable abnd the acetone will evaporate. Also
ER will eat HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate
the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double
boiler, taking precautions against fire and pour it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner
mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.
I recommend diverting a small quantity, about 4 ozs. of the 50-50
ATF/kerosene for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be
done without impairing the effectiveness of the resulting mix.
Mag7stw wrote:
#
# >One part each of ATF, acetone What is ATF?
#
#
Kerosene is a good dirt solvent, as well as providing lubrication. It used
to be used for engine flush and still seems to be a major component of
powder solvents. Seems it would help get out carbon and dirty oils. As for
ATF, it is formulated with metal cleaners, conditioners and lubricants (it's
all that goes into your auto tranny, so it has to do multiple things well).
Strider
Mag7stw wrote:
> ...
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Strider
Big Daddy Rishar wrote:
> ...
--
"Did you exchange a walk on part in a war for a lead role in a
cage?" - Pink Floyd
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# >One part each of ATF, acetone What is ATF?
Alcohol tobacco and firearms. I use Early Times, Camel Straights, and
a ground up Lorcin, (1/3 part of each)
#Bascially, each solvent used has a certain level of polarity. Acetone, is
#somewhat polar, and can dissolve polar "junk" on your gun parts better than
#kerosene, which is virtually non-polar, can.
As an addendum to this very informative post on polar and non-polar
solvents.
The ATF (that's Automatic Transmission Fluid to those of you that find the
area under your automobile hood as "terra incognita") serves an important
function, given the strong mix of polar and non-polar solvents being used.
One of the MAJOR weaknesses of using a strong polar solvent on a firearm
like trichloroethylene or heptane (automotive brake cleaner) is that is
strips virtually every bit of lubricant out of the metal surface. Without
careful reapplication of this lubricant/protectant, wear and corrosion are
the inevitable result.
The typical "Ed's Red" formula adds the ATF, which is a high-shear, high
film-strength hydraulic oil, with fair lubricity to replace the oils that
the solvents are stripping. In this way, Ed's Red provides the strong
solvent action as well as protecting the surface of the part. The ATF then
can act as a sub-strate to pull other lubricants into the surface pores of
the metal (Parkerizing and blueing provide NO corrosion resistence on their
own...they DO, however, provide a micro-structure that traps and hold oils
that DO protect the metal surface).
John
#
Andrew T Still
I agree with you 1OOO%. I wouldn't use Ed's Red for anything. These people
should try G-96 Complete Gun Treatment ( http://www.g96.com ). I think these
people would be very pleased with the results of G 96. Al H --
hal...@osuokc.edu
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
# Regarding your question about substituting lacquer thinner for the
# acetone, I'm pretty sure that's okay. In fact, IIRC, in the recipe you
# should already have one part mineral spirits (same thing, right?) in
Uh, no.
I'm not sure of the chemical differences, but as a former painter, I can
tell you
that lacquer thinner will dissolve stuff that laughs at mineral spirits.
It'll also
do nasty things to your skin of you give it time.
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
<snip>
#One question: would it help, hurt or make no difference to substitute
#lacquer thinner for the acetone?
Lacquer thinner is more volatile than gasoline! Don't use it unless
you have paid-up fire insurance and a death wish.
--
Please support the National Quaylitis Foundation.
http://www.dnaco.net/~tinc/quaylitis.htm
"A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Lose."
Thanks,
Andy
#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
Ron Seiden wrote:
#
# Okay, I understand what Kerosene, ATF and Acetone are -- What's the common
# (as in, go into Home Depot and ask for it) name of "Aliphatic Mineral
# Spirits, or Stoddard Solvent, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9 (aka
# "Varsol")"?
"R.M.R." wrote:
#
# Seems I came in on the end of this.
# Could someone tell Mr. Know it All ( me ) just what is dead Red...or Mr.
# ed..,..No wait a minute
# Ed's Red.Sounds like some guy stayed in the sun to long..you know ED.
# No really what is Ed's Red,Seeing I'm like most,love shooting but can't
# get the wife to clean all my guns perfect (sure in my dreams) them so if
# easier is better I want in.So what's it all about.Two parts this and one
# part what?Like the other guy asked ( What is ATF )
# Do ya mix a little Reno in there too. (-;{] Thanks
#
Actually, real oxide blueing DOES provide protection against corrosion.
It's basically like anodizing, in that it's an oxide that isn't porous,
and it won't 'hold oil'. It doesn't have the hardness of anodizing, but
if it's done properly, all of the exposed metal is already 'rusted' and
it won't rust any more.
Blueing small parts is done by rusting them (red rust), and then boiling
them to convert the red rust to blueing (black rust). Once you've done
it several times, the chemicals used to rust the metal (which are VERY
good at produces red rust) no longer work. No oil involved.
Doug White
#One question: would it help, hurt or make no difference to substitute
#lacquer thinner for the acetone?
Laquer thinner would be much less aggressive than the acetone, at
least that is true for other uses to which the two might be put and
probably would also hold true in this use. Try it. Acetone is
generally the most expensive component of those you list, so little
will be lost. I suspect it was tried when the formula was worked up.
Please do add a famous Reno to the mix if the opportunity arises,
however, you will need to dump the whole bitch, er, batch at the
landfill.
Strider
"R.M.R." wrote:
> ...
--
"Did you exchange a walk on part in a war for a lead role in a
cage?" - Pink Floyd
Visit my home page at:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
# >One part each of ATF, acetone What is ATF?
Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Must drive a standard transmission vehicle.
Andrew T Still
I'd head to the nearest fire ant mound and burn there little guts
out.little bastards.
Ray
(Si vis pacem,
para bellum)
On 12 Sep 2000 21:01:42 -0400, pc...@webtv.net (Putnam City North High
School) wrote:
> ...
"Ralph Mowery" <rmo...@dialpoint.net> wrote in message
news:8pkt4s$1ks$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
Actually, Ed himself doesn't take much credit for it - he says that it's
just a modern version of an armory gun cleaner that was published a very
long time ago.
# He probably saw or tried more comercial stuff on more guns than most.
Anyone who knows Ed's background would agree with you 110%!
--
-=[ grant ]=-
--
REPLY-TO: gra...@bigfoot.com
"Where there are no men, strive to be a man" -- R. Hillel
"He that is of the opinion money is everything may well be suspected of
doing everything for money." -- B. Franklin
"R.M.R." wrote:
# I'd head to the nearest fire ant mound and burn there little guts
# out.little bastards.
Don't bother lighting it. The kerosene and acetone in the solution will
literally dissolve off the chitin exoskeletons of the ants, turning them
into mini-pools of dissolved chitin and formic acid.
Your local dump may very well have a facility for disposing of such a
mixture, probably by incineration in smaller quantities.
Somebody who actually knows some chemistry can give an authoritative answer,
but using acetone on Ruger frames strikes me, intuitively, as wrong.
Acetone is powerful stuff.
I went looking for a metal gas can, but they're all plastic these days.
"Ralph Mowery" <rmo...@dialpoint.net> wrote in message
news:8pp8hd$emi$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
# Look in the paint section under the paint thinner and brush cleaners.
# Varsol is a common name they should know. Mineral Spirits are a form of
# brush cleaner/paint thinner. Not sure but think the CAS #64741-49-9 is a
# number that is assigned to the product by or for the government for
# chemicals that can be harmful to you or the enviroment.
#What I'd like to know is, what do you do with this mixture after use?
If you are "dunking", reuse it until it really gets filthy - then the
fire ant mound treatment routine sounds like a great idea!
#In article <8pkurc$1ug$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu>,
# Par...@webtv.net (R.M.R.) wrote:
# > ...
#
#I agree with you 1OOO%. I wouldn't use Ed's Red for anything. These people
#should try G-96 Complete Gun Treatment ( http://www.g96.com ). I think these
#people would be very pleased with the results of G 96. Al H --
#hal...@osuokc.edu
And pray tell us, kind sir, how much it would cost to come up with
enough G-96 to be able to submerge an entire revolver (less grips) for
"dunk" cleaning?
I went to the grocery store bought a one gallon glass jug of table
wine, "disposed" of the wine, and used the jug for the Ed's Red. It
actually looks very nice in that jug being it has a nice red color,
fruity bouquet (not!), and strong tannins. :)
Andy
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 14 Sep 2000 18:44:45 -0400, "Billy Chambless"
<bi...@erc.msstate.edu> wrote:
#The problem I'm having is finding a gallon can to put it in!
#
#I went looking for a metal gas can, but they're all plastic these days.
I wouldn't do that, it can't possibly be good for it.
#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
#The problem I'm having is finding a gallon can to put it in!
#
#I went looking for a metal gas can, but they're all plastic these days.
#
Try your local paint store.
--
"Of what service would militia be to you, when most probably you will not have a single musket in the State; for as arms are to be provided by Congress, they may or may not furnish them?"
-Patrick Henry, 5 June 1788
A bore cleaner that would porbably be much safer for your Ruger would be M
Pro 7. You can find it at http://www.mp7.com They should be able to help
you.
It's the acetone and mineral sperits that worry me about Ed's Red. Steve H
--
http://www.bigfoot.com/~S_C_Horn
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Andrew T Still
# I went to the grocery store bought a one gallon glass jug of table
# wine, "disposed" of the wine, and used the jug for the Ed's Red. It
# actually looks very nice in that jug being it has a nice red color,
# fruity bouquet (not!), and strong tannins. :)
I'm about due to paint the kitchen - a metal paint can seems an ideal
jug for it - easy dipping and all.
Cleaning out latex paint cans is pretty easy - it's messier when they're
fresh, but when left to dry, the residue peels out like a bad sunburn.
-=<MIDNIGHT WRITER>=-
--
"I have the simplest of tastes. I am always satisfied with the best."
-- Oscar Wilde
emd...@hockey.net Mpls./St. Paul, MN, USA
Strider
atstill wrote:
> ...
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cage?" - Pink Floyd
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've been using Ed's on my P95 for a long time without damage but
I've never SOAKED the alloy frame. I've noticed no effect on
synthetic rifle stocks a la Remington, Savage, and Choat.
I DO however, remove the Packmeyer grips before giving my 1911 a
bath although, during cleaning, I do not. Ed's has run onto the
grip many times with no noted effect.
I've had no experience with polymer frames but, again, I would
call the manufacturer. You likely wouldn't be the first to ask
that question.
Strider
atstill wrote:
> ...
--
"Did you exchange a walk on part in a war for a lead role in a
cage?" - Pink Floyd
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#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
I think that you will be pleasently surprised about how affordable G 96
Complete Gun Treatment is. Not only is it inexpensive, but it's effective
too.
Al H
--
hal...@osuokc.edu
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Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > ...
#The cost of G-96 is cheaper than one would think. :) Steve H
$4.95 plus shipping for 6 oz. according to their web-site. That's $105.60
per gallon, and does NOT fit my definition of "cheaper" by any stretch of
the imagination!
John
Andrew T Still
#In article <8prkt9$k1a$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu>,
# John Garand <Garand_...@hotmail.com> wrote:
# > ...
#The cost of G-96 is cheaper than one would think. :) Steve H
OK, I'll list the cost of making up 4 gallons of Ed's Red:
1 gallon Dexron compatible ATF @ about $3.00 to $4.00 * $4.00
1 gallon Acetone @ $8.00 (what I paid for my last gallon) $8.00
1 gallon Mineral Spirits $2.00
1 gallon Kerosene Don't know what the de-scented stuff $2.00
costs, but regular is still under $2.00 per gallon
While sales tax might push that up a tad, Acetone sells for varying
prices, and I leave out the lanolin - that is what I paid $16.00 for 4
gallons of the stuff.
* I bought a case of 12 at Sam's for about $11.00 (10.95 IIRC).
So how much will 4 gallons of G-96 cost?
Or, how much G-96 will $16.00 buy.
Answer it whichever way you are able.
#BC > Billy Chambless <bi...@erc.msstate.edu> commented:
# >
# > The problem I'm having is finding a gallon can to put it in!
# >
# > I went looking for a metal gas can, but they're all plastic these
# > days.
#
#I'm about due to paint the kitchen - a metal paint can seems an ideal
#jug for it - easy dipping and all.
But be careful. I just purchased 6 gallons of paint and the sides are
metal but the bottoms are plastic. It prevents the old problem of
having the bottom of the can rust out while sitting in the barn, but
whether that plastic will stand up to the acetone content of Ed's Red
is unknown.
#In article <8prkt9$k1a$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu>,
# John Garand <Garand_...@hotmail.com> wrote:
# > ...
#Mr. Gerand
#
#I think that you will be pleasently surprised about how affordable G 96
#Complete Gun Treatment is. Not only is it inexpensive, but it's effective
#too.
#
#Al H
You wouldn't "whoof" another Okie, would you? I'd be pleasantly
surprised if I didn't have to open lots of smaller bottles/cans in
order to get a couple of gallons of G-96 in one container
As a Cameron Aggie alum I can state that I will eat your "Cowboy" hat
if it comes in at around $4.00 per gallon!
I wouldn't eat mine, it cost me too danged much! :-))
Michael L. Kuchera
David Lee Brashier
#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
#I challenge you or anyone to try and tell me that the sub standard Ed's
#Red is cheaper than RB-17 Bore Cleaner http://www.rb-17.com
#
That's unfair. I had already posted my cost per gallon. Now I can't
sucker you into a wager, can I?
#Isn't Mil-C-372C Military Surplus bore cleaner cheaper than Ed's Red?
Is that standard bore cleaner, or is it CLP?
I've bought the old GI bore cleaner (Korean War surplus) for as little
as $0.50 for a 3 or 4 oz can within the last few years. I've bought
CLP surplus pint bottles for under $10.00. I don't think any of it,
unless you can find 55 gallon drums on the market, will undercut the
$4.00 per gallon which Ed's Red costs me (without the lanolin).
David Lee Brashier
David Lee Brashier wrote:
#
# I challenge you or anyone to try and tell me that the sub standard Ed's
# Red is cheaper than RB-17 Bore Cleaner http://www.rb-17.com
#
# David Lee Brashier
#
Sub standard? That would imply that there is a standard. What
standard are you referring to?
BTW. Is there a price list on the web site you posted? It's
pretty hard to compare prices without one. I'm claiming $5.00 per
gallon for Ed's. I'll bet your product is considerably more
expensive and only marginally, if at all, better. It looks as if
it's being marketed by a bunch of eco-nazi tree huggers.
Just because something comes in a pretty bottle and has a good
marketing campaign behind it does not make it a better product.
BTW, David, you don't happen to work for the company that makes
RB-17 do you?
Strider
--
"Did you exchange a walk on part in a war for a lead role in a
cage?" - Pink Floyd
Visit my home page at:
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And it will continue to do so until you drop it, drop a heavy part into it
(and through its bottom), or accidentally bang something into it (e.g., a
rifle barrel) while moving around it.
Speaking as someone who has an 18" diameter oil circle on my driveway as
a result of a glass "natural style" peanut butter jar tearing through a
supermarket plastic bag as I took it out of the car, I recommend AGAINST
using glass jars for icky chemicals unless necessary due to corrosive
effects (e.g., acids or blueing salts).
-- Michael.
--
Michael A. Justice | "Ignore the propaganda. Focus on what you see."
lib...@eskimo.com | Example: http://www.loganact.com/images/smiley2.JPG
#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
Really? Why don't you "put up" and post your testing methodology and
results for us to make up our own minds?
--
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--
REPLY-TO: gra...@bigfoot.com
"Where there are no men, strive to be a man" -- R. Hillel
"He that is of the opinion money is everything may well be suspected of
doing everything for money." -- B. Franklin
If he doesn't put up the price of RB-17 I will. I think that Sinclair
International is charging about $ 17.OO a pint making it, probably, one of
the more pricy of the bore cleaners. Al H -- hal...@osuokc.edu
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
I expected it would cost $43,198.50 per gallon.
Surprisingly, it didn't cost that much.
--
--henry schaffer
h...@ncsu.edu
Richard
Alex Clayton <Alex...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:8q5i3h$dig$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
#No it can't cost that much. Break Free CLP which cost more that G 96
#only cost $76.99 a gallon, Hoppe's # 9 $73.67, Kleen Bore # 1O Solvent
#$53.OO, and Kleen Bore Formula 3 gun coditioner $49.6O a gallon which is
#a bargin. The question isn't which is cheaper (price shouldn't be a
#factor) but which is effective and Ed's Red looses BIG TIME on this
#account.
And your authoritative and factual basis for making this claim is???
And please spare us "testing" accomplished by a company producing a
cleaning product.
#Personally, I think that RB-17 is better than the whole mix, and that
#includes both G 96 and Ed's Red.
#
#David Lee Brashier
And you are certainly entitled to that opinion. If this post answers
my other post asking for "your authoritative and factual basis for
making this claim" regarding the effectiveness of Ed's Red, you do not
have to respond to that post.
David Lee Brashier wrote:
> ...
And your proof is where?.................
Strider
0uters puts turpentine in their nitro solvent (although there are other
reasons I wouldn't use 0uters Nito Solvent). BTW, if anybody wants to know,
a gallon of 0uters Nitro Solvent will set you back $49.95. Steve H --
http://www.bigfoot.com/~S_C_Horn
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Regarding dip soaking, I don't think that RB-17 could be used in this manner
very well. Although I'm not a chemist, RB-17 is a green slimy gel, and I
don't think a gel cleaner would work in dip soaking as well as any liquid
cleaner. Again, I could be wrong. I will say that RB-17 is a good bore
cleaner, and I use it for other gun cleaning purposes (I also use other
brands of bore cleaners), but I don't think it would work as well as the
liquid bore cleaners for dip soaking. So since RB-17 is a gel, I would say
the "which is cheaper Ed's Red vs. RB-17" question would be a moot point,
because I think Ed's Red is a liquid, and I don't think that RB-17 would work
as well as a liquid in dip soaking. Steve H --
http://www.bigfoot.com/~S_C_Horn
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
#Get a shot off fast. This upsets him long enough
#to let you make your second shot perfect.
#Lazarus Long
Ron Seiden wrote:
> ...
I don't know what all the fuss over plastic is, I store my Ed's in a regular
plastic gallon jug. I need to make more red about every year or so. As I said
above, I use a standard hardware store squirt bottle to hose off my guns
without meltdown problems. I use the standard recipe, minus the lanolin.
I've used most of the more expensive cleaners, and yes, some work better, but
you just cannot beat a healthy squirt of red for the greatest bang for the
buck!
Brian
Alex Clayton wrote:
# In the "Ed's Red" thread I asked if anyone had ever tried it on the
# Polymer frame Ruger's like my 22/45
The polymer used in Ruger's frames are a polyurethane base, and are not
susceptible to the solvents in Ed's Red.
Some solvents, such as chloroform, may have a deleterious effect on
polyurethane, but I strongly doubt that any cleaning agent uses them.
arn_werks wrote:
# proofing of Ed's Red. The term "Anhydrous
# Lanolin" refers to lanolin that has had all the
# water possible removed. A better grease chemist
Actually, lanolin is more of a wax, instead of a grease, given that it is a
mixture of various esters and polyesters of long chain alcohols and fatty
acids.
# than I can tell how much water that it will soak
# up in normal atmospheric conditions. Thus I am
# not sure that it will add to rust proofing
# qualities.
I would think that such a compound would behave just like any other wax
compound, in terms of rustproofing ability. I've had a katana with a high
quality, high-carbon steel blade (not stainless!) coated in a mixture of
carnauba wax and lanolin for 10 years now, and it does not show a speck of
rust, even though it has been taken out on a regular basis, into the steamy
hot air of South Carolina.
The disadvantage to this mixture, is that it isn't as easy to apply, as say,
a good Teflon spray, and that it can get messy if you are not careful.
Richard
Alex Clayton <Alex...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:8q8sms$n1f$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
arn_werks wrote:
> ...
The optional lanolin in Ed's is for people who's hands are
sensitive to the other ingredients. It does not contribute to
it's intended function. I don't add it in mine.
Strider
--
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cage?" - Pink Floyd
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Brian10X wrote:
> ...
I like Ed's but I did find a plastic that it damaged. I tried
using a Lee powder funnel to pour some into a small bottle. It
glazed the surface of the plastic funnel, but not beyond use. I'm
more careful with plastics but still use Ed's at least weekly on
one gun or another.
#
# arn_werks wrote:
#
# # proofing of Ed's Red. The term "Anhydrous
# # Lanolin" refers to lanolin that has had all the
# # water possible removed. A better grease chemist
#I like Ed's but I did find a plastic that it damaged. I tried
#using a Lee powder funnel to pour some into a small bottle. It
#glazed the surface of the plastic funnel, but not beyond use. I'm
#more careful with plastics but still use Ed's at least weekly on
#one gun or another.
A cheap kitchen funnel would probably be HDPE, which I have not found
sensitive to ER, despite what the instructions say. Just don't use it
in the kitchen afterwards.
Jeff/addesign
NRA Certified RSO
ISRA,Tuesday Night Irregular Rifles, High Power League
Billy Chambless wrote:
> ...
# acetone has a chemical reaction with plastic....DO NOT USE IT!
You, of course, mean acetone has a reaction with SOME plastics...USE
CAUTION.