Bedding a barrel in Winchester Mod. 670
Andrew Falanga
I'm new to this. In fact, though I've always been around guns (grew up
on a small farm, everybody in my family hunted), I never thought about
how the barrel contacted the stock. To me, a firearm was just what I
saw when purchased and that was that. (I was taught to take care of
them, which was reinforced when I joined the Marines.)
Ok, now for the meat of what I want to ask. Many years ago, I
purchased a Win. Model 670 chambered in .30-06. The first question I
have for everyone is, is this gun supposed to have a fully floated
barrel? My guess is, no, because the blueing has been rubbed off from
a small section (~1") at the end of the forend of the stock.
Next question is, is it a good idea to fully float the barrel of this
type of gun? Is this one of the guns with a "light" barrel? I saw
some postings to this group from a few years ago where folks said that
light barrelled guns don't "like" to be fully floated.
Another question I have is, what does glass bedding mean? Is it a good
idea to glass bed this gun? How much of the barrel of this gun should
be contacting the stock? What is meant when one says they, "...usually
glass bed the barrel for 1" past the action?" I didn't think the
action actually contacted the stock. I thought that was the receiver?
#From this type of statement I take it to mean that they glass bed 1"
from the receiver forward. Am I mistaken?
Can someone also explain to me what the recoil lug is and which one of
the three "lugs" (I call them bolts) on my model 670 is the recoil lug?
I think this just about covers it. Let me know if I dind't explain
something fully.
Thanks,
Andy
PS. The e-mail address given in this header is accurrate. If you wish
to contact me apart from the NG, that address is active.
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R.M.R.
to the original poster,how does the gun shoot.I have a 670 in 30-06 I
bought many years ago at Woolworths.It shoots 1moa at 100yds in my mitts
so undoubtedly could do much better for others.The 670 was Winchester's
economical 70 so mine wasn't free floated and suspect none were.Over the
years I considered doing a do-it-yourself float job but it being such a
good shooter I couldn't see the logic in it...
Ray,
(Si vis pacem,
para bellum) U.S.A.
Bart B.
"Many years ago, I purchased a Win. Model 670 chambered in .30-06. The
first question I have for everyone is, is this gun supposed to have a
fully floated
barrel?"
No. The reason is the same for most factory bolt action rifles. As
the stock is inletted the same for all the parts that fit into it, they
tyically shoot more accurate when there's a few pounds of upward
pressure on the barrel at the fore end tip.
"Next question is, is it a good idea to fully float the barrel of this
type of gun?"
Yes, but only if the receiver is epoxy bedded. If the factory stock's
bedding will be unaltered, leave the barrel to stock pressure at the
forend as is.
"Is this one of the guns with a "light" barrel? I saw
some postings to this group from a few years ago where folks said that
light barrelled guns don't "like" to be fully floated."
Yes, it has a light barrel. But light barreled rifles (as do heavy
barreled ones) will shoot with best accuracy when they have the barrel
totally free floating and the receiver properly epoxy bedded.
"Another question I have is, what does glass bedding mean?"
Glass (or epoxy) bedding involves routing out the inletted section of
the stock where the action fits about 1/8th inch, then removing all the
parts from the receiver, coating it with a release agent (wax or oily
spray), then filling the inletted section of the stock with epoxy, and
putting the barreled action in it. When the epoxy (or fiberglas) cures
and is hard, the barreled receiver is popped out, the parts reinstalled
in the receiver then extra routing is made to clean up the job and
allow the trigger and bolt and magazine to work properly. What this
does is make the receiver a perfect fit into the stock so it stays
there in the exact place for each shot. Competition rifles are epoxy
(or glass) bedded with a plastic steel epoxy or other similar stuff.
"Is it a good idea to glass bed this gun?"
Yes if you want it to shoot as accurate as possible. But if it's used
as a hunting rifle glass bedding probably isn't needed.
"How much of the barrel of this gun should be contacting the stock?"
According to the best riflesmiths who build the most accurate center
fire match rifles that win the most matches and set the most records
with Winchester bolt actions, none of the barrel should touch any of
the stock. The reason is the forend moves around as the rifle is held
in different positions and that puts pressure on the barrel in varying
amounts wherever the stock touches the barrel. That variable pressure
hurts accuracy.
"What is meant when one says they, "...usually glass bed the barrel for
1" past the action?" I didn't think the action actually contacted the
stock. I thought that was the receiver?"
Part of the action is the receiver and that touches the stock. The
receiver is a single piece of metal with holes, slots and cut outs for
the different parts to fit into. When the completely assembled bolt,
trigger parts, magazine parts and trigger guard is attcached to the
receiver, that assembly is called the action. When the barrel is
screwed into the front of the receiver, that complete assembly is
called a barreled action. After the barrel action is fitted to a
stock, the whole thing is now a rifle.
Some folks think the barrel must be bedded with epoxy for an inch or so
in front of the receiver. That is, the bedding epoxy extends from the
receiver forward for about an inch, then the barrel is free floating in
front of that point. Their reasoning is usually based on a belief that
that epoxy supports the barrel better because without it the stress of
the barrel hanging on the front of the receiver is too much. Well, the
stress hasn't damaged any receivers; even with very heavy target
barrels. Proper tests have shown that the more bedding there is in
front of the epoxy bedded receiver on centerfire rifles under the
barrel the more vertical shot stringing there is.
"Can someone also explain to me what the recoil lug is and which one of
the three "lugs" (I call them bolts) on my model 670 is the recoil
lug?"
The recoil lug is the rectangular metal part of the receiver at the
front below where the barrel screws into the receiver. It's about as
wide as the barrel, about three-eighths inch down from the flat under
the front bottom of the receiver and about a quarter inch thick front
to back. It butts against the recoil shoulder in the stock when the
action is screwed into the stock.
The three bolts are called stock or guard screws that attach the action
to the stock.
BarryC
My 670 in 30-06 gave me a "wallet group" of 3 shots at 100yds that
measure just a little over .25" center-to-center.
It loves 180gr round nose bullets!
It's bone stock and I wouldn't change a thing.
Andrew Falanga
Thank you very much for you extensive answers (I sincerely mean that).
I'm the type that really likes to know as much as possible and this
takes a lot of the mystery out of it. Sounds like bedding the action
may be more trouble that it's worth at this point. I think I'll just
seal the exposed wood with polyurethane and put it together.
Andy
R.M.R.
polyurethane and put it together.
~~~~
Oh I forgot about the wood,the exterior that is.I took all Winchester's
670 economical oil finish off and re finished the stock with Tung oil,I
believe also known as China oil.I applied it by hand then rubbed it out
with 0000 steel wool,after several applications, maybe five and a very
sore palm later it came out quite nice and felt confident the pores were
sealed properly.
Ray,
(Si vis pacem,
para bellum) U.S.A.
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