Insect killing soap spray
Freckles
other bugs.
Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of
water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?
Thanks
FarmI
> Follow the label directions on insecticidal soap which you buy at a
> garden center.
>
> OR, do as I do and wash them off making sure there are no ladybeetle
> larvae on the plants eating their fair share of aphids.
To those comments I would add that there may also be small birds in your
locality that will eat aphids. Every Spring I get aphids on my roses and
every year they are gone again within about 2 weeks as the Fairy wrens come
in and work over the 100+roses in my garden. If you don't have any tiny
birds in your garden try to encourage them to come with sympathetic
plantings because they really do work very hard and I'd rather they did that
than I had to do it.
brooklyn1
>
>I've read about using soapy water to spray on flowers to kill aphids and
>other bugs.
>
>Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of
>water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?
>
>
I use Murphy Oil Soap as a pre-emergent, 1 Tbls to a gallon of water in my
sprayer. Murphy's is a pure vegetable soap, not harmful to birds and other
wildlife but it will kill soft bodied sap sucking insects and repel others.
You really should spray before flowers/blossoms open or you will repel
pollenators.
http://www.colgate.com/app/MurphyOilSoap/US/EN/Products/OriginalFormula.cwsp
beecr...@yahoo.com
swish bar ivory until the water takes on a gray appearance
Billy
<833f8bee-e06e-47e0...@q9g2000yqc.googlegroups.com>,
beecr...@yahoo.com wrote:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Modern-Homesteading/2007-06-01/Country-Lor
e-Homemade-Insecticidal-Soap-Spray.aspx
Country Lore: Nontoxic, Homemade Insecticidal Soap Spray
By Ted Swensen
This insect spray is economical and environmentally safe for indoors or
in the garden. You can use it for soft bodied insects, such as aphids,
and for little sugar ants.
To make the insecticidal soap spray, shave one quarter of a bar of
Fels-Naptha laundry soap (about 1 inch) into 1 quart of heated water and
stir until dissolved. This will be your insecticidal soap concentrate.
Put the soap solution into a labeled jar.
To use the soap spray, put 1 teaspoon of concentrate per quart into a
sprayer. This insecticidal soap is a contact poison, so spray it
directly onto the insects you want to eliminate from your home, garden
or orchard. For additional killing power, add one-quarter cup of rubbing
alcohol per quart.
‹ Ted Swensen
President, Home Orchard Society
Portland, Oregon
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/homemade-insecticidal-soap.html#
Soap has been used for centuries as an all-purpose pesticide.
It disrupts insects¹ cell membranes, and kills pests by
dehydration. The key is not to use too much soap, or you¹ll
also kill the vegetation near the pests. If you follow the
proportions of soap to water in the Soap Spray recipe, below,
the vegetation should be fine.
Note: Buy a liquid soap and not a detergent. Health food
stores have liquid soaps, such as Dr. Bronner¹s Pure-Castile
Soaps.
Insecticidal Soap Spray
1 to 2 tablespoons liquid soap
1 quart water
Combine ingredients in a bucket, mix, then transfer to a spray
bottle as needed.
All-Purpose Pesticide Soap Spray
Strong smelling roots and spices such as garlic, onions,
horseradish, ginger, rhubarb leaves, cayenne and other hot
peppers, are all known to repel insects.
INGREDIENTS
A handful of roots and spices
Enough boiling water to cover
Soap Spray (recipe, above)
Add the roots and spices to the bottom of a mason jar. Cover
with the boiling water, screw on the top, and let set overnight.
Strain, and add to the Soap Spray. Note that this will rot,
so use it all up or freeze leftovers for another time.
Variation: Garlic Spray
Use 1 to 2 heads garlic. Deer and rabbits hate the smell
of garlic.
More on Natural Pest Control (30 articles available)
More from Annie B. Bond (3249 articles available)
--------
http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s1-2-9-9,00.html
Control Insects Without Pesticides
Simple organic solutions for pest problems.
Related Articles
>
Preventing Plant Disease
>
Beneficial Borders
>
Companion Planting
>
Meet The Beneficial Insects
>
Soldier Bug Nursery For The Garden
Products
>
Floating Row Covers
>
Sticky Traps
>
Insecticidal Spray
>
Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control
Discussions
>
New Gardeners
We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see
pests on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their
plants damaged. But we must remind you of the central principle of
organic gardening: growing plants in harmony with Nature. And insects,
even those that eat your plants, are a crucial part of that system. When
you see insects in your garden, take some time to really watch what
they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant or just nibbling
it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage. Also, in many cases,
insects attack stressed out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to
spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so
they can resist insect attack? The best defenses against insect attack
are preventative measures. Grow plants suited to the site and they'll be
less stressed out. Don't let them be too wet, too dry or too shaded.
Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular plant won't
decimate an entire section of the garden.
Most importantly, encourage the natural predators of pest insects to
hunt in your garden‹beneficial insects (such as the common ladybug),
birds, frogs and lizards control pests by eating them. You can make your
garden hospitable for your natural allies by keeping a water source
(just a dish-full, if that's all you've got) nearby for them and by not
wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide, sending the
beneficials elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small
blossoms like sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects
who feed on flowers' nectar between attacks on pests.
Barriers such as row covers, netting and plant collars very effectively
protect crops from pests. Sticky traps and pheromone lures are another
way to minimize your pest problems without harming other living things
in your garden. You'll find row covers (the best-known brand is Reemay)
and other barriers, along with traps and the like at your local garden
center and in mail-order catalogs.
Finally, if you need to react quickly to an acute pest invasion you can
choose from several natural products that affect specific insects, won't
harm humans, pets or wildlife, and that degrade quickly in the
environment. Among the best of those products is Bacillus thuringiensis,
a naturally occurring bacteria that you apply to your plants to disrupt
the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters. Be sure to identify
the pest positively before you buy this product because each strain of
Bt affects specific kinds of insects. Horticultural oils, insecticidal
soaps and garlic and/or hot pepper sprays also work well against many
pests.
---------
http://www.ehow.com/how_4904754_tobacco-listerine-dish-washing-soap.html
How to Make Bug Spray Using Tobacco, Listerine, Dish Washing Soap
By kristara, eHow Member
Rate: (5 Ratings)
This is a toxic bugs spray, not to be used on any edible plants or fruit
trees. It's cheap to make and works very well. I recommend it for roses
and other flowering and non-flowering bushes and plants.
Instructions
Difficulty: Easy
Things You¹ll Need:
€ Package of Chewing Tobacco
€ Listerine
€ Lemon Dish Washing Detergent
€ Spray Bottle
Step
1
Empty contents of package of chewing tobacco into 1 gallon of hot water.
The tobacco can be wrapped in cheese cloth for easy removal or strain
off later. Let the tobacco soak in the water over night. The water will
turn a dark brown color.
Step
2
Remove tobacco from the water either by straining or removal of the
tobacco wrapped in cheese cloth. Pour into a 2 quart spray bottle. The
nicotine is highly toxic. Keep away from children and animals. Do not
use on anything you will eat.
Step
3
Add 1 oz. Listerine. The Listerine is naturally an insect repellent.
Bugs do not like the scent and stay away from your plants.
Step
4
Add 1 teaspoon of dish washing detergent. The dish washing detergent
makes the mixture stick to your plants.
Step
5
Mix well. Spray on to the plants, bushes or trees being careful not to
inhale the mixture. This is toxic. Reapply after every rainfall or full
watering.
----------
http://www.netpamj.com/home-remedies.htm
Home remedies for
insect and disease control
The following information is provided by the University of Florida and
the Brevard County Extension Service...
Home-made soap and oil spray for insect control - you can use these
remedies either alone or together.
€ Mix 2 1/2 tbsp cooking oil and
2 1/2 tbsp baby shampoo
in 1 gallon of water. Mix well.
NOTE: Shake well before and during application.
Water the plant the day before you spray. Spray every 5 to 7 days as
needed.
This may injure plants with hairy leaves or with very thin waxy
coverings on the leaves like squash and other crucifers.
Reduce potential injury by rinsing the plant with fresh water a few
hours after the soap spray application.
Do not spray during the heat of the day in full sun!
Thorough coverage of the pest is necessary so spray both sides of the
foliage until it drips from the leaves. However, to be safe, test the
spray on a small area of the plant. Wait 2-3 days and then check for any
damage.
€ If a fungus is also present, than add to the above formula:
2 tbsp baking soda
NOTE: shake well before and during application. If the weather is humid
or the threat of disease is high, spray every 5 to 7 days. Spray both
sides of the leaves thoroughly at the first sign of disease. Always test
any spray on a small area of the plant.
Can be used against black spot and mildew on roses, powdery mildew on
summer squash, early blight on tomatoes and alternaria leaf blight on
melons, and who knows what else! Do not use oil on orchids.
The use of soap or oil for insect control will control the insects but
will do nothing to correct the condition that is making the plant
susceptible to the insects. Using foliar applications of fish emulsion
and seaweed may help ill plants do better.
€ Disease control for orchids
Single plants with fungus problems can often be treated with ground
cinnamon rather than a chemical fungicide. The orchid leaves must be
damp enough for the cinnamon to stick to the leaves. Just sprinkle the
cinnamon on the affected area. Allow the leaves to dry for approximately
one week and the area will dry out.
(Information provided by the American Orchid Society)
€ Another control for the fungus Powdery Mildew -- Spray a milk
solution (minimum of 10% concentration, which is 1 cup of milk in 9 cups
of water) twice a week.
(Research conducted in Brazil and published in the journal Crop
Protection [vol. 18, 1999,pp.489-92.] The milk has shown to be as
effective or better than conventional fungicides.)
€ Use aspirin to fight fungus, too. Dissolve 3/4 of an aspirin in a
gallon of water, and spray every 2 to 3 weeks. The aspirin will boost
the plants defence mechanism.
Testing done at the University of Rhode Island showed that tomato and
other plants tested also yielded more fruit than those treated with
commercial fertilizers.
€ For a root rot fungus in the soil -- (Pythium, Rhizoctonia,
Phytophthora and Fusarium). Add some corn meal (right off the grocery
store shelf) to the diseased soil and plant(s). The corn meal will
stimulate the good soil micro-organisms that keep the bad microbes under
control.
(This research was carried out by the Texas A&M research station in
Stephenville where they are growing peanuts organically.)
€ Corn earworm control -- Mix vegetable oil and some Btk (Bacillius
thuringiensis var. kurstaki) together. Using an eye dropper, apply 5
drops of the mixture per ear just as the corn silks begin to turn brown.
(This recommendation is backed by research conducted at the University
of Massachusetts and Hampshire College.)
€ Red pepper spray for repelling insects --
Mix 2 tbsp red pepper (example: McCormick Cayenne Pepper from spice
section of grocery store) and
6 drops of baby shampoo
in 1 gallon of water
Let this mixture sit overnight and then stir it thoroughly to dissolve
as much of the pepper as possible. (Before putting this solution in your
sprayer it is best to strain it so that it doesn't clog the sprayer
nozzle.) Spray this mixture weekly.
(Research done at Auburn University in Alabama showed that this solution
in addition to garlic juice sprays helped repel insect pests from
cabbage plants. Research has also shown that garlic juice not only
repels insects, but can even kill many insects.)
--
- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson
ka...@notme.com
I only ask as I think we're all capable of googling. For me, when I
post to a newsgroup, I'm looking for personal experience.
For me, I've used cayenne tea, garlic tea, dishwashing liquid and I
think I've tried tobacco tea all with moderate success.
When I mentioned original thought in a previous post, this was what I
was referring to, not the particular quote you used.
Usenet to me is sharing personal knowledge. JMO (but it is my
opinion.).
Kate
On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 17:50:18 -0700, Billy <wildbilly@without_a.net>
wrote:
>It disrupts insectsą cell membranes, and kills pests by
>dehydration. The key is not to use too much soap, or youąll
>also kill the vegetation near the pests. If you follow the
>proportions of soap to water in the Soap Spray recipe, below,
>the vegetation should be fine.
>Note: Buy a liquid soap and not a detergent. Health food
>stores have liquid soaps, such as Dr. Bronnerąs Pure-Castile
>Things Youąll Need:
brooklyn1
>
> Top posting on purpose - do you personally recommend anything, Billy?
>
> I only ask as I think we're all capable of googling. For me, when I
> post to a newsgroup, I'm looking for personal experience.
>
>
that billy has no personal experience at anything whatsoever other than
verbosity and failed masturbation.
Billy
> On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 17:50:18 -0700, Billy <wildbilly@without_a.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> >http://www.motherearthnews.com/Modern-Homesteading/2007-06-01/Country-Lor
> >e-Homemade-Insecticidal-Soap-Spray.aspx
> >
> >Country Lore: Nontoxic, Homemade Insecticidal Soap Spray
> >By Ted Swensen
> >This insect spray is economical and environmentally safe for indoors or
> >in the garden. You can use it for soft bodied insects, such as aphids,
> >and for little sugar ants.
> >To make the insecticidal soap spray, shave one quarter of a bar of
> >Fels-Naptha laundry soap (about 1 inch) into 1 quart of heated water and
> >stir until dissolved. This will be your insecticidal soap concentrate.
> >Put the soap solution into a labeled jar.
> >To use the soap spray, put 1 teaspoon of concentrate per quart into a
> >sprayer. This insecticidal soap is a contact poison, so spray it
> >directly onto the insects you want to eliminate from your home, garden
> >or orchard. For additional killing power, add one-quarter cup of rubbing
> >alcohol per quart.
>
>
> Yeah, well, I tried this one last year and it didn't do squat on
> apids, cabbage loopers or mater hornworms.
>
> Even at triple the rate of concentrate, it didn't work.
>
> Stinks too.
>
> My healthier-every-year-soil is making more difference than anything,
> I feel.
>
>
> Charlie
Which is why I included:
We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see
pests on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their
plants damaged. But we must remind you of the central principle of
organic gardening: growing plants in harmony with Nature. And insects,
even those that eat your plants, are a crucial part of that system. When
you see insects in your garden, take some time to really watch what
they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant or just nibbling
it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage. Also, in many cases,
insects attack stressed out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to
spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so
they can resist insect attack? The best defenses against insect attack
are preventative measures. Grow plants suited to the site and they'll be
less stressed out. Don't let them be too wet, too dry or too shaded.
Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular plant won't
decimate an entire section of the garden.
Most importantly, encourage the natural predators of pest insects to
hunt in your garden--beneficial insects (such as the common ladybug),
birds, frogs and lizards control pests by eating them. You can make your
garden hospitable for your natural allies by keeping a water source
(just a dish-full, if that's all you've got) nearby for them and by not
wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide, sending the
beneficials elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small
blossoms like sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects
who feed on flowers' nectar between attacks on pests.
-----
IMHO FarmI had the best answer to the question that should have been
asked. Don't be shy about jumping in.
Hey, the poster ASKED for a recipe.
"Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of
water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?"
The formula came from "Mother Earth News". I was bored, as you and Kate
seem to be bored. I gave her what she asked for, with a previso. The
first defense against insects, is healthy plants.
Since when do we second guess a poster or withhold information that is
benign and easy to give?
Why don't you go build a deer-proof fence, or remove a tree stump or
somethin'? Oh, and I don't think I'm going to be making Kate happy
anytime soon. Hopefully, she has a husband to improve.
I'd really love to hear an explanation from anyone, but Jangchub, on
what surface tension" has to do with the turgidity of the stomata cells,
that would cause them to open-up, causing a plant to dry-out, shrivel,
and die. And what kind of soap is Ivory soap, other than it is made from
fats and a base?
Oh, little mysteries of life.
So, how'd you get on with your Jersey Giants? I got half of my UC-157s
in and the trench dug for the second half. After they're in, I need to
prep a new bed for the leeks. I'm getting lettuce, celery, chives,
parsley, and oregano from the garden. The second year for the medicinal
herbs is looking good, even if the identifying tags did wash off the
potts. The milk thistle is feral but keeps showing up in the same area.
The mint is on the move but it is too early, and cool, to start pulling
it for ice water. Radishes and carrots are showing. Peas are just sort
of staring at me and not doing much. It's almost May and I haven't
killed off half of the seedlings, so it looks like it's going to be a
grand year. Still have the water rationing to get around though. I'll be
happy when I get past the digging and on to gardening.
Billy
> On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 22:51:05 -0700, Billy <wildbilly@without_a.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> >Hey, the poster ASKED for a recipe.
> >"Does anyone have a formula on how much liquid soap to use in a gallon of
> >water to make such a spray, or where I might find such a formula?"
> >The formula came from "Mother Earth News". I was bored, as you and Kate
> >seem to be bored.
>
> Why do I seem to be bored?
You were responding to a response instead of the OP.
>
> >I gave her what she asked for, with a previso. The
> >first defense against insects, is healthy plants.
> >
> >Since when do we second guess a poster or withhold information that is
> >benign and easy to give?
>
> Second guess? Are you playing with your crayola or being grouchy?
You'd be grouchy too, if you only had one crayola and apparently I'm not
doing well enough with keeping it between the lines. Maybe I should have
become a style editor and tell everyone how to get their responses
right, instead of just answering questions. I read that the main thing
is finding your voice.
> >
> >Why don't you go build a deer-proof fence, or remove a tree stump or
> >somethin'?
>
> What? I don't have a deer problem or stump problem.
Well, you should have. These are pressing problems of our times.
Responses to these problems fell like manna from the skies, without a
discouraging word from you or Kate.
>
> >Oh, and I don't think I'm going to be making Kate happy
> >anytime soon. Hopefully, she has a husband to improve.
>
> What the hell are you going on about now? And am I mis-construing
> your post or are you grouching at me?
It looks like I was grouching about Kate but I might be able to squeeze
you in next thursday for a quick course on wine tasting (last one
standing is the loser;O).
>
beecrofter: "swish bar ivory until the water takes on a gray appearance"
Chub: "Do that on the wrong plant and break the surface tension opening
the
foliage and stomata to drying, shriveling, dying. Ivory is not the
kind of soap wich works on the exoskeleton or softbodied insect. Use
Ivory if you want, but I wouldn't use it on plants with a high ticket
price."
> >I'd really love to hear an explanation from anyone, but Jangchub, on
> >what surface tension" has to do with the turgidity of the stomata cells,
> >that would cause them to open-up, causing a plant to dry-out, shrivel,
> >and die. And what kind of soap is Ivory soap, other than it is made from
> >fats and a base?
Since a response doesn't seem to be in Chub's own self interest, allow
me.
http://www.essortment.com/home/homemadeinsecti_sylg.htm
The best type of soap for killing insects is debatable; some recommend
pure castile soap or liquid hand soap (like Ivory), but others endorse
various name brand liquid dish liquids (most often Dawn and Ivory).
Ivory:2 Chub:0
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/pdf/mfs12.pdf
HOW IT WORKS: Insecticidal soap products work by smothering soft
bodied pests and disrupting their cuticle layer. In order to be
effective, it is
necessary to thoroughly coat the pest. After the soap dries on the plant
surface,
insects and mites will not pick up a lethal dose. Soaps have little
efficacy
against insect eggs (Lawson and Weires 1991, Liu et al. 1996). Some
insecticidal soaps are also labeled for powdery mildew suppression. It
is not
clear how soaps work to suppress plant diseases. Ammonium salts of fatty
acids are used as a mammal repellant. They slowly release an ammonia
smell that may deter deer and rabbits.
Soaps also function as wetting agents or surfactants, reducing the
surface
tension of water. Using them can allow spray materials to penetrate into
small crevices and cover plant surfaces better with less "beading up".
> >
> >Oh, little mysteries of life.
Here we have beecrofter responding to the OP and Chub barging in to
erroneously discredit his help. Don't know what it is with Chub and
Shelly, they don't seem to understand humility. They are very good at
somethings but then cross over the line, and claim expertise in areas
where they become ludicrous. I guess what I'm sayin' is, that they need
to find their voice, and not to take themselves so damn seriously
(unless, of course, they are dealing with one of those insane,
chemical-spewing planet-killers).
>
> Uh....yeah, I agree.
You do not, at least not with enthusiasm. I noticed that hesitation,
Junger.
>
> >
> >So, how'd you get on with your Jersey Giants? I got half of my UC-157s
> >in and the trench dug for the second half.
>
> We got all 75 in at son's, after bed prep and trenching and all that
> stuff......fair hard work for an overwintered lardass like myself.
>
> Rained really hard a couple hours ago, so glad the job is done.
>
> >After they're in, I need to prep a new bed for the leeks.
Think I'll wait on the leek bed. For no reason at all, my little finger
and ring finger feel like I closed a door on them this morning.
> I'm getting lettuce, celery, chives,
> >parsley, and oregano from the garden. The second year for the medicinal
> >herbs is looking good, even if the identifying tags did wash off the
> >potts. The milk thistle is feral but keeps showing up in the same area.
> >The mint is on the move but it is too early, and cool, to start pulling
> >it for ice water. Radishes and carrots are showing. Peas are just sort
> >of staring at me and not doing much. It's almost May and I haven't
> >killed off half of the seedlings, so it looks like it's going to be a
> >grand year. Still have the water rationing to get around though. I'll be
> >happy when I get past the digging and on to gardening.
>
> I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep.
>
> Charlie
Be careful of what you wish for ol' friend.
Now, where the hell are the rest of my crayolas?
Bill
<wildbilly-0317F...@c-61-68-245-199.per.connect.net.au>,
Billy <wildbilly@without_a.net> wrote:
> > I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep.
> >
> > Charlie
Should be I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep sound
for 6 hours.
>
> Be careful of what you wish for ol' friend.
Yup!
>
> Now, where the hell are the rest of my crayolas?
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9CAdCdU-Ng>
Bill and 88 F right now.
More on topic :))
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_exY9ptMbA>
--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
Not all who wander are lost.
- J.R.R. Tolkien (1892-1973)
Billy
Bill <b2fore...@snip.net> wrote:
> In article
> <wildbilly-0317F...@c-61-68-245-199.per.connect.net.au>,
> Billy <wildbilly@without_a.net> wrote:
>
>
> > > I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep.
> > >
> > > Charlie
>
> Should be I'll be happy when I can get to sleep and stay asleep sound
> for 6 hours.
> >
> > Be careful of what you wish for ol' friend.
>
> Yup!
>
> >
> > Now, where the hell are the rest of my crayolas?
>
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9CAdCdU-Ng>
>
> Bill and 88 F right now.
>
> More on topic :))
>
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_exY9ptMbA>
I'm still dizzy from 94F three days ago but the plants seem to like it.
I got the clear plastic covers over most of my seedlings outside now (up
about an inch at one end to keep from frying everything. 60F here in the
redwoods.
Etienned
See our recipe and application tips below . . .
BUT WAIT - Why do you feel the need to kill the pests? IPopulation explosion?
Or a few aphids on a few buds?
There's a difference...
Larger question - Why is there a pest infestation on the plants?
Likely Answer:
The plants' surrounding environment is not in equilibrium.
OR
The plant itself is unhealthy and likely stressed environmentally, thus
weakened and more prone to an infestation or disease.
So before doing anything ensure correct diagnosis-plant stress or
environmental stress.
Please don't assume or treat "just in case." It could cause more problems
that are more difficult to correct.
Each plant species needs certain light/soil/moisture/temperature conditions in
order to thrive. If not, and over time, it becomes stressed and weak thus
susceptible to pests and diseases.
The environment needs critters of all kinds in order for each to maintain a
constant population where no one population overpowers another.
Presence of earthworms, mantids, Ladybugs, wasps, spiders, lizards and toads
create an equilibrium amongst them all so no population explosion. Yet a few
of each will be present. This is not bad.
So diagnose thoroughly before applying any control mechanism.
*Chemical Use* Causes the most environmental disruption. Chemical use to
destroy multiple species and creates a vacuum allowing an invading population
to flourish above all others.
We spray/mist a Soap/Oil emulsion for control of a pest and fungus infestation.
RECIPE CONCENTRATION ALERT: concentration should alter between warm and cool
months for effectiveness and to protect plants' well-being in exterior
locations.
*Interior Locations* with climate control, use more concentrated emulsion
recipe.
FOR EXTERIOR LOCATIONS:
Warm Months-Temps above 78F: MORE DILUTE emulsion (too concentrated will
cause defoliation);
Cool Months-Temps below 78F: MORE CONCENTRATED emulsion (more effective).
RECIPE:
Temps above 78F.: 1/2 TBSP Insecticidal Soap + 1/2 TBSP Mineral Oil Stirred
into 1 Gal room-temp. Water.
Temps below 78F: 1 TBSP Insecticidal Soal + 1 TBSP Mineral Oil into 1 Gal
room-temp. Water.
APPLICATION:
Spray/Drench entire plant to the point of runoff, on upper and underside of
all foliage, stems and surrounding soil surface. If treating a potted plant,
treat all surfaces of plant container (including it's underside by tipping
onto its bottom edge thus exposing the bottom in order to apply spray/mist.
TIP: Rake soil surface clean. Remove all dead and decaying matter from soil
surface beneath plant and discard in trash bag directly into covered trash bin
before treating plant.
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