Base for garden shed?
Ed
for my allotment.
But how to prepare base? I thinking of just whacking down a few runners?
Looked at loads of articles on google including :
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/storage-shed-foundation.html
But maybe , this is all overkill ?
What do people with real practical experience think is best way to go?
Ed
mark
"Ed" <ex@directory> wrote in message
news:fLCdnYlp2vRaulfU...@posted.plusnet...
I would use 6 concrete blocks, the sort used for building 100mm walls. About
£1 each.
Place these flat side, 3 along each side of the propsed shed position with
the end ones in a little from the corner so you don't see too much of them.
Cut them half into the ground, and all level to each other.
Then place 3, 3inch square posts across the blocks as bearers.
You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer. Erect
shed.
mark
Phisherman
Depends on what you want to spend. A poured concrete slab is ideal.
Next choice is crushed limestone in a frame. Around here, if a
groundhog, skunk, or chipmonk can get under it, he will.
Ed
I don't know these concrete blocks? where to get them? they better than
4 inch x 4 inch wooden bearers?
Ed
mark
>
>
> I would use 6 concrete blocks, the sort used for building 100mm walls.
> About £1 each.
> Place these flat side, 3 along each side of the propsed shed position with
> the end ones in a little from the corner so you don't see too much of
> them. Cut them half into the ground, and all level to each other.
> Then place 3, 3inch square posts across the blocks as bearers.
> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer. Erect
> shed.
>
>
> mark
>
I don't know these concrete blocks? where to get them? they better than
4 inch x 4 inch wooden bearers?
Ed
Blocks arn't instead of the wooden bearers, they support the bearers and
keep them off the ground.
94p each at Wickes:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Dense-Blocks/Medium-Density-Block/invt/154040
3" by 3" posts would be adequate for such a short span, which would be the
width of your shed, 3foot less block dimension.
mark
brooklyn1
I've no idea what's a "pent" shed. But regardless, you don't want your shed
directly on the ground or it will rot, and move off level, rack, and fall
apart. A shed needs a sturdy base that permits good drainage and air
circulation. But the most important consideration (especially with a
relatively small shed such as yours) is be certain a shed is solidly
fastened to the ground or first time there's a good wind it will blow away,
probably slam into someone elses property doing great damage, causing you
much grief. There exist various tie down systems for anchoring a shed to
the ground. When installing a shed it is wise to "overkill" (prepare for a
hurricane), the cheap turns out expensive.
The moderator
"mark" <Mark...@reepham2003.force9.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jbqdnWjQuMNLt1fU...@posted.plusnet...
I agree with the cinder blocks. That whole crushed gravel design is bad
idea.
Ed
Granby
insert anchors into it.
"The moderator" <no_spam@no_mail.com> wrote in message
news:49ca3d29$0$5462$bbae...@news.suddenlink.net...
CanopyCo
Does this shed come with a floor?
If it does, then just putting a concrete block at each corner will do.
If it does not have a floor, then I would put down a layer of crush
rock and put the shed on that.
The main thing is that you do not want wood touching dirt.
It can touch rock or concrete, but not dirt, or it will rot.
brooklyn1
"The moderator" <no_spam@no_mail.com> wrote in message
news:49ca3d29$0$5462$bbae...@news.suddenlink.net...
>
and lasts far longer, and a crushed stone base won't move or rot. The
crushed stone base is built up a few inches above grade for drainage and
compacted by machine, then the shed is set directly on the stone base which
acts as a shed floor, or for fancy schmancy paver blocks can be set on the
compacted crushed stone with the shed atop that... if a paver block patio
were built it would require a 6" crushed stone base, then 2" of sand, then
more sand brushed between the pavers. Crushed stone costs a lot less than
cement blocks, heavy lumber stringers, and heavy exterior ply flooring.
But I wouldn't go crazy over a base for a 5' X 3' shed, it's pretty small, I
don't really think such a small structure qualifys as a shed, it's more a
tool cabinet/closet.... screw a piece of 3/4" ext. plywood to the bottom and
set it atop a 6" X 6" X 10' treated post cut in half and set directly on the
ground... to keep the posts from moving drill a couple of half inch holes
through each and drive in a 2' length of 1/2" rebar into the ground...
refrain from closing off the space underneath, air circulation is important.
This is a simple three hour job, should cost like $40 including the rust
pruf screws. The treated posts should last 15-20 years, perhaps a lot
longer, and can easily be replaced. Just do not neglect to anchor it down
real well, do not scrimp on the anchoring hardware.
My garden shed is the size of an oversized one car garage, in fact it is a
garage, it sets on a compacted crushed stone base.... my huge barn the
same.... most barns are on a compacted crushed stone base. Won't heave when
the ground freezes either.
Ed
> Why not build a frame, use sacrete and make it a little wider so you can
> insert anchors into it.
wot u mean?
Ash
> Blocks arn't instead of the wooden bearers, they support the bearers and
> keep them off the ground.
>
> 94p each at Wickes:
> http://www.wickes.co.uk/Dense-Blocks/Medium-Density-Block/invt/154040
>
> 3" by 3" posts would be adequate for such a short span, which would be the
> width of your shed, 3foot less block dimension.
>
>
> mark
>
>
For my shed on the allotment I had a ring round and found 3 nice and cheap
concrete fence posts from a local garden centre and laid these on the ground
and then popped my shed on top. Quick, cheap and easy ... it's been ok for
the last 10 years and expect it'll be ok for the next 10 years.
You can either leave the gap under the shed for a nice bit of ventilation of
you can just put some wooden offcuts around the base or something similar to
stop anything wanting to make a home underneath ... I left mine open and
found a family of hedgehogs moved in not long after I put the shed up ...
nice little creatures which love to eat all your snails and slugs.
Ash.
Ed
out a rectangle and fill it with gravel and lay the blocks on this and
then put the bearers on top?
Ed
mark
"Ed" <ex@directory> wrote in message news:49CA5E8D.9000606@directory...
Ed
For my shed, 12 by 8, I just put my blocks direct on the ground, dug them in
a little so that they were 'firmed' in and level with each other. I didn't
dig out anything else. Vegetation underneath (in my case lawn) soon died
off.
mark
nm...@cam.ac.uk
mark <Mark...@reepham2003.force9.co.uk> wrote:
>
>Do I dig out a bed and lay the blocks direct on the ground or do I dig
>out a rectangle and fill it with gravel and lay the blocks on this and
>then put the bearers on top?
The former. Just level and compact the ground. And you can equally
well use el cheapo concrete slabs, surplus bricks or whatever instead
of blocks. It really doesn't matter.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Sacha
MM6dnWaYdaBPylfU...@posted.plusnet, "Ed" <ex@directory> wrote:
Ed, this is now cross posted to so many groups that you're getting confusing
advice! It might be better for you if you post to one group that covers
wherever you live, e.g. UK or USA. I've never heard of anyone using
'anchors' on a shed in UK but it's possible that the person who answered you
lives in tornado country! This does not apply to urg - as long as we're
lucky. ;-)
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon
Exotic plants, shrubs & perennials online
nm...@cam.ac.uk
Sacha <sa...@nowhere.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>Ed, this is now cross posted to so many groups that you're getting confusing
>advice! It might be better for you if you post to one group that covers
>wherever you live, e.g. UK or USA. I've never heard of anyone using
>'anchors' on a shed in UK but it's possible that the person who answered you
>lives in tornado country! This does not apply to urg - as long as we're
>lucky. ;-)
In an exposed position towards the west, you would need to.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Alang
Indeed
I had a 6x5 greenhouse turn into a kite one day. Fortunately no one
was hurt but I anchored the next one in poured concrete at each
corner.
It *was* an exceptional wind that day. Took the roof off a house
higher up the hill completely.
Special Agent Melvin Purvis
I secured my 8'x5' greenhouse to 25# concrete retaining wall blocks,
six of them, with steel bolts through the frame and into the
concrete. The blocks had been set on bedding gravel and carefully
squared and leveled.
The first storm of winter came along with 70mph gusts and blew the
greenhouse, still fastened to the blocks, right off the bedding
gravel. The greenhouse was shifted about two feet downwind.
With great effort I releveled and squared off the greenhouse again,
then hied me to Home Depot and bought three of those corkscrew dog
stakes, two feet of stainless steel corkscrew about three inches
across, with a hand-sized D handle on top. I ran plastic ties through
the frame and through the handles on the corkscrews. I now laugh at
the gales!
The Medway Handyman
> For my shed on the allotment I had a ring round and found 3 nice and
> cheap concrete fence posts from a local garden centre and laid these
> on the ground and then popped my shed on top. Quick, cheap and easy
> ... it's been ok for the last 10 years and expect it'll be ok for the
> next 10 years.
Yup. BTDTGTTS. Done exactly that for several sheds, works a treat as you
say.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Ed
Mark,
Thanks to you and everyone else for the advice given. Very much
appreciated.
Your suggestion of using 6 concrete blocks sounds like an excellent cost
effective idea for what is only a 5 ft x 3 ft tool shed.
But I am also minded to screw the wooden bearers to the blocks to
minimise any lateral movement and also to screw the wooden flooring
joists of the shed itself to the bearers with 4 (or 6) inch screws
from inside the shed as my allotment plot is indeed in an exposed windy
position. That should be OK eh? It's hardly likely that strong winds
could raise the shed attached to 6 concrete blocks?
Before I erect the shed, I think I will paint all the panels to protect
against rot, especially the underside of the flooring. From what I read
, it seems that a spirit-based formulation would be best as the shed is
smooth planed?
Ed
(Herts, SE England)
P.S. I never missed anyone's messages as I read all the groups I posted
to. For me, it was useful to get a wide view of opinions as everyone's
situation is different experiencing a range of weather and substrate
conditions.
Dioclese
news:fLCdnYlp2vRaulfU...@posted.plusnet...
You leave the reader wondering what the shsd base is made of, at the very
least. Further, you are simply expanding on that by asking a question that
may not have bearing if one had some limited knowledge of the shed and soil
and elevation it will set on itself. If you can't ask a specific queston
with specific information to base an answer on, butt out.
--
Dave
Confront and fight Obama zombieism
Bikini Whacks
<NONE> says...
negativity towards a stranger on usenet.
btw, what is your bed base made of?
Granby
small shed and how to best set it up. Not exactly rocket science the person
just wanted different ways of doing this. I hope this last person wasn't a
regular poster on here or I will go back to just lurking and picking out the
good stuff.
"Bikini Whacks" <geea...@tiscali.com> wrote in message
news:7356m2F...@mid.individual.net...
Billy
have unnerved him.
I would recommend a bolt set in concrete at the four corners of tour
shed. Drill holes. Add a couple of washers (including a lock washer),
screw down nut to set.
Sorry, but I haven't really been following this thread but obviously you
need something of heft to secure your structure.
In article <735bvkF...@mid.individual.net>,
"Granby" <sp...@joink.com> wrote:
--
- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being is
now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the moment of
conception until death." - Rachel Carson
SteveB
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
news:3O2dnSVb3sY-2VDU...@earthlink.com...
Who shit in your cornflakes?
SteveB
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
news:3O2dnSVb3sY-2VDU...@earthlink.com...
Yeah. What do you think this is, a discussion group or what?
Oh, it is?
Never mind.
I'd put it on railroad ties. Last a long time, easy to get, cheap. Is that
specific enough, Dave?
Steve
Bill R
>
> Who shit in your cornflakes?
>
>
It really doesn't matter what is asked or discussed here you will ALWAYS
find someone that dislikes what someone posts.
Overall, I find these groups almost useless with all the political (and
other) non-topic discussion and bashing that goes on. It would be nice
to get back to our "root" but, with the current crowd, I don't think
that will happen.
--
Bill R. (Ohio Valley, U.S.A)
"You are never to old to play in the dirt"
To see pictures from my garden visit http://members.iglou.com/brosen
Digital Camera - Pentax *ist DL
Remove NO_WEEDS_ in e-mail address to reply by e-mail
Granby
over my potting table.
Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
on playgrounds? I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
would be good for wintering. Live in Ill. zone 5
"Bill R" <no_weed...@iglou.com> wrote in message
news:49ce5b09$0$29749$d94e...@news.iglou.com...
Dioclese
news:3O2dnSVb3sY-2VDU...@earthlink.com...
Maybe I should have said: Due to lack of information on the shed, soil, and
elevation details where the shed will be, I must bow out in providing a
suitable solution for your question.
CanopyCo
> "You are never to old to play in the dirt" I love this and will post it
> over my potting table.
>
> Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
> on playgrounds? I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
> would be good for wintering. Live in Ill. zone 5
>
With mulch like that, how would you get it back up next spring so that
you can till the garden again?
If you plow it under, it will never rot and will just be trash in the
dirt.
Granby
in the ground. I also put down a circle of the landscaping cloth type stuff
to help hold in the moisture and not to have to worry about any weeds. I
would use this mulch in the long flower boxes in front of the house that are
in sun most of the day, that is why the question about too much heat.
"CanopyCo" <Junk...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:b491e84a-15ca-4938...@q16g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
CanopyCo
> Sorry, I guess I was clear as mud. I plant in pots these days not too much
> in the ground. I also put down a circle of the landscaping cloth type stuff
> to help hold in the moisture and not to have to worry about any weeds. I
> would use this mulch in the long flower boxes in front of the house that are
>
> news:b491e84a-15ca-4938...@q16g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 28, 2:45 pm, "Granby" <s...@joink.com> wrote:
>
> > "You are never to old to play in the dirt" I love this and will post it
> > over my potting table.
>
> > Has anyone used that mulch that is made out of rubber tires, like they use
> > on playgrounds? I wonder if it would get too hot in the summer, think it
> > would be good for wintering. Live in Ill. zone 5
>
> With mulch like that, how would you get it back up next spring so that
> you can till the garden again?
>
> If you plow it under, it will never rot and will just be trash in the
> dirt.
I got ya.
I have my head so far into my own garden that I completely forgot
about other methods.
:-/
Seen a deal called a salad table at
http://growit.umd.edu/
and may try that this year.
I’ve also been thinking about making a box for tomatoes.
Depends on if I can find enough wood around for that one.
At least this year I can start on the cedar limb cadge that would
eventually go on top of the box.
Frederick Williams
> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.
What's the purpose of that?
--
Which of the seven heavens / Was responsible her smile /
Wouldn't be sure but attested / That, whoever it was, a god /
Worth kneeling-to for a while / Had tabernacled and rested.
Pete C
Frederick Williams wrote:
> mark wrote:
>
>> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.
>
> What's the purpose of that?
Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is covered
in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof felt would
do the same? :)
--
Buy a poppy....help a serviceman
Pete C
London UK
mark
"Pete C" <pet...@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:7l0ughF...@mid.individual.net...
>
>
> Frederick Williams wrote:
>> mark wrote:
>>
>>> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.
>>
>> What's the purpose of that?
> Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is
> covered in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof
> felt would do the same? :)
> --
That was yonks ago! I would imagine the shed has long been built.
Yes, to stop rising damp getting to the wooden bearers.
mark
Frederick Williams
>
> "Pete C" <pet...@lineone.net> wrote in message
> news:7l0ughF...@mid.individual.net...
> >
> >
> > Frederick Williams wrote:
> >> mark wrote:
> >>
> >>> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and bearer.
> >>
> >> What's the purpose of that?
> > Don't know the original post, but the underside of my shed floor is
> > covered in very heavy duty polythene to prevent rising damp. I guess roof
> > felt would do the same? :)
> > --
>
> That was yonks ago!
I'm a slow reader.
Bill Grey
"Frederick Williams" <frederick...@tesco.net> wrote in message
news:4AEAD0C8...@tesco.net...
Not really necessary if the floor runners are tanalised timber, but have a
look at this aynway:-
http://www.homebase.co.uk/wcsstore/homebase/assets/ht_erect_shed.pdf
Quite a comprehensive set of instructions for you.
Bill
Frederick Williams
Thank you. I had to look up 'tanalised'.
HillaryBashore
http://www.gardenalley.com/edible/Base-for-garden-shed-13733-.htm
HillaryBashore wrote:
brooklyn1 wrote:
> "The moderator" <no_spam@no_mail.com> wrote in message
> news:49ca3d29$0$5462$bbae...@news.suddenlink.net...
>>
>> "mark" <Mark...@reepham2003.force9.co.uk> wrote
>> in message
>> news:jbqdnWjQuMNLt1fU...@posted.plusnet...
>>>
>>> "Ed" <ex@directory> wrote in message
>>> news:fLCdnYlp2vRaulfU...@posted.plusnet...
>>>>I have just ordered a 5ft x 3 ft pent shed with door on the
>>>> longer side,
>>>>for my allotment.
>>>>
>>>> But how to prepare base? I thinking of just whacking down
>>>> a few
>>>> runners?
>>>>
>>>> Looked at loads of articles on google including :
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/storage-shed-foundation.html
>>>>
>>>> But maybe , this is all overkill ?
>>>>
>>>> What do people with real practical experience think is
>>>> best way to go?
>>>>
>>>> Ed
>>>
>>>
>>> I would use 6 concrete blocks, the sort used for building
>>> 100mm walls.
>>> About £1 each.
>>> Place these flat side, 3 along each side of the propsed shed
>>> position
>>> with the end ones in a little from the corner so you don't see
>>> too much
>>> of them. Cut them half into the ground, and all level to each
>>> other.
>>> Then place 3, 3inch square posts across the blocks as bearers.
>>> You might like to put a piece of roof felt between block and
>>> bearer.
>>> Erect shed.
>>>
>>>
>>> mark
>>
>> I agree with the cinder blocks. That whole crushed gravel design
>> is bad
>> idea.
>>
>> Not a bad idea, just a bit more labor, but costs less than other
> materials
> and lasts far longer, and a crushed stone base won't move or rot. The
> crushed stone base is built up a few inches above grade for drainage
> and
> compacted by machine, then the shed is set directly on the stone base
> which
> acts as a shed floor, or for fancy schmancy paver blocks can be set on
> the
> compacted crushed stone with the shed atop that... if a paver block
> patio
> were built it would require a 6" crushed stone base, then 2"
> of sand, then
> more sand brushed between the pavers. Crushed stone costs a lot less
> than
> cement blocks, heavy lumber stringers, and heavy exterior ply flooring.
> But I wouldn't go crazy over a base for a 5' X 3' shed, it's pretty
> small, I
> don't really think such a small structure qualifys as a shed, it's more
> a
> tool cabinet/closet.... screw a piece of 3/4" ext. plywood to the
> bottom and
> set it atop a 6" X 6" X 10' treated post cut in half and set
> directly on the
> ground... to keep the posts from moving drill a couple of half inch
> holes
> through each and drive in a 2' length of 1/2" rebar into the
> ground...
> refrain from closing off the space underneath, air circulation is
> important.
> This is a simple three hour job, should cost like $40 including the
> rust
> pruf screws. The treated posts should last 15-20 years, perhaps a lot
> longer, and can easily be replaced. Just do not neglect to anchor it
> down
> real well, do not scrimp on the anchoring hardware.
> My garden shed is the size of an oversized one car garage, in fact it
> is a
> garage, it sets on a compacted crushed stone base.... my huge barn the
> same.... most barns are on a compacted crushed stone base. Won't heave
> when
> the ground freezes either.
-------------------------------------
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Great job plus excellent photo's. I personally would love to have the time
to
create such a lovely garden shed, but don't at the moment. Maybe in a few
years
i will. For now i took the easy way out and got my garden shed and a
carport
from isheds here in Australia.
If anyone is time short like me, check out isheds.com.au
Keep up the great work.
Cheers
HillaryBashore