Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

Atari power cords

3 views
Skip to first unread message

Nafster

unread,
Mar 31, 2008, 8:32:35 PM3/31/08
to
Where's the best place to order Atari power cords?
Email'd The Real Bob Roberts.Just waiting for response and conf # and
price.
Wondering if there is another place to get?
Thanks!
ALso my ROTJ resets and loses credits once in game playing? Any
sugestions?

Tim Iskander

unread,
Mar 31, 2008, 8:58:08 PM3/31/08
to
I always get them from Bob. they are like $4... can't go wrong :)
cheers
/Tim

Nafster

unread,
Mar 31, 2008, 9:56:42 PM3/31/08
to

Ya that was a quick response from Bob!
First time ordering from him and he is now my contact for my needs
with parts.
Couldnt find these cords anywhere?
Thanks Bob!

mystery_base

unread,
Apr 1, 2008, 12:01:47 AM4/1/08
to
On Mar 31, 8:32 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Bob's a great resource, but you can find these same cords at Lowe's or
Home Depot in the aisles that feature extension cords. There are
usually 8 or 9 feet in length and are rated for 125V and up,
supporting 300 watts. Check your game literature to verify the cord
you get will support the loads required. You will also have to
install the molex pins and connector. Bob took the liberty of
installing the connector before he shipped my last cord.

For the record, Bob's are cheaper. But if you can't wait and have the
tools, they can be had locally.

Jeff

Jeff

SchifWare

unread,
Apr 1, 2008, 1:33:13 PM4/1/08
to
If you're making an order, you might want to include an A/R II repair
kit, Big Blue and Bridge Rectifier. I was getting similar resets and
it wound up being my A/R II.
http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari

-If nothing else, check to make sure you're getting a solid ~5.1v DC
to the boardset. If not, the parts above might help to get you there.

Best of luck and let us know if it works!
-Chuck

On Mar 31, 8:32 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Nafster

unread,
Apr 1, 2008, 6:46:37 PM4/1/08
to
On Apr 1, 1:33 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you're making an order, you might want to include an A/R II repair
> kit, Big Blue and Bridge Rectifier.  I was getting similar resets and
> it wound up being my A/R II.http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari

>
> -If nothing else, check to make sure you're getting a solid ~5.1v DC
> to the boardset.  If not, the parts above might help to get you there.
>
> Best of luck and let us know if it works!
>   -Chuck
>
> On Mar 31, 8:32 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Where's the best place to order Atari power cords?
> > Email'd The Real Bob Roberts.Just waiting for response and conf # and
> > price.
> > Wondering if there is another place to get?
> > Thanks!
> > ALso my ROTJ resets and loses credits once in game playing? Any
> > sugestions?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Is that the A/R II -02 to -06 or the A/R II -01 repair kit?
Venturing in this and i am somewhat new to repairs..
Guy i bought the ROTJ from was playing it with the power cord broken
for some time.
Seams like everytime i mess with the volume the reset happens and
there is alot of static noise once i change volume.
Thanks!

SchifWare

unread,
Apr 2, 2008, 2:30:35 PM4/2/08
to
> Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -


Hello again!
I'm assuming you have an -02 in there. Take a look at this picture
and compare it to yours (the pic is an -02 version):
http://therealbobroberts.net/ar2.jpg
-Just as it says, if both sides of the heat-synch have parts, you'll
need the -02 version. If you only have 1 side populated with parts,
you'll just need the -01 version since it doesn't include the caps on
the unpopulated side.

From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
problem - so I'd make sure that your power cord has the 3rd grounding
prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.
I'd also check the service panel to make sure there aren't any shorts
on the credit button, service switch, etc.

As for the static when you change the volume, that will happen if the
volume control is dirty. While the machine is off, just turn it back
and forth a bunch of times to knock off some of the corrosion in the
pot. Radio Shack also sells a cleaner just for this purpose - squirt
it in - rotate back-n-forth - wait for it to dry - and you should be
set.

Enjoy,
Chuck

Nafster

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 3:04:20 PM4/8/08
to
On Apr 2, 2:30 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Apr 1, 6:46 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 1, 1:33 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > If you're making an order, you might want to include an A/R II repair
> > > kit, Big Blue and Bridge Rectifier.  I was getting similar resets and
> > > it wound up being my A/R II.http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari
>
> > > -If nothing else, check to make sure you're getting a solid ~5.1v DC
> > > to the boardset.  If not, the parts above might help to get you there.
>
> > > Best of luck and let us know if it works!
> > >   -Chuck
>
> > > On Mar 31, 8:32 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > Where's the best place to orderAtaripowercords?
> > > > Email'd The Real Bob Roberts.Just waiting for response and conf # and
> > > > price.
> > > > Wondering if there is another place to get?
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > ALso my ROTJ resets and loses credits once in game playing? Any
> > > > sugestions?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Is that the A/R II -02 to -06 or the A/R II -01 repair kit?
> > Venturing in this and i am somewhat new to repairs..
> > Guy i bought the ROTJ from was playing it with thepowercord broken

> > for some time.
> > Seams like everytime i mess with the volume the reset happens and
> > there is alot of static noise once i change volume.
> > Thanks!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Hello again!
> I'm assuming you have an -02 in there.  Take a look at this picture
> and compare it to yours (the pic is an -02 version):http://therealbobroberts.net/ar2.jpg
> -Just as it says, if both sides of the heat-synch have parts, you'll
> need the -02 version.  If you only have 1 side populated with parts,
> you'll just need the -01 version since it doesn't include the caps on
> the unpopulated side.
>
> From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
> problem - so I'd make sure that yourpowercord has the 3rd grounding

> prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.
> I'd also check the service panel to make sure there aren't any shorts
> on the credit button, service switch, etc.
>
> As for the static when you change the volume, that will happen if the
> volume control is dirty.  While the machine is off, just turn it back
> and forth a bunch of times to knock off some of the corrosion in the
> pot.  Radio Shack also sells a cleaner just for this purpose - squirt
> it in - rotate back-n-forth - wait for it to dry - and you should be
> set.
>
> Enjoy,
>   Chuck- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the insight! I installed the new power cord and found out
that there are 3 screw caps where the green(power cord) is tyed to the
other 2 green lines and the white with the white.I conected the black
with the other 2 blacks and now it fires up and plays properly with no
resets... But, it only fires up when i plug it in the wall not with
the switch in the back. Should i have screwed one of the grounded
blacks with the whites or the greens? The switch(to turn game on) in
the back does nothing now?But there is no delay when i plug it in the
wall from the time the lights go on and the monitor it all turns on
when its plugged in the wall.Is this bad for the boards?

Thanks for the volume tip! This worked!!!

Naf

Nafster

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 3:07:53 PM4/8/08
to
On Apr 2, 2:30 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Apr 1, 6:46 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 1, 1:33 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > If you're making an order, you might want to include an A/R II repair
> > > kit, Big Blue and Bridge Rectifier.  I was getting similar resets and
> > > it wound up being my A/R II.http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari
>
> > > -If nothing else, check to make sure you're getting a solid ~5.1v DC
> > > to the boardset.  If not, the parts above might help to get you there.
>
> > > Best of luck and let us know if it works!
> > >   -Chuck
>
> > > On Mar 31, 8:32 pm, Nafster <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > Where's the best place to orderAtaripowercords?
> > > > Email'd The Real Bob Roberts.Just waiting for response and conf # and
> > > > price.
> > > > Wondering if there is another place to get?
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > ALso my ROTJ resets and loses credits once in game playing? Any
> > > > sugestions?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Is that the A/R II -02 to -06 or the A/R II -01 repair kit?
> > Venturing in this and i am somewhat new to repairs..
> > Guy i bought the ROTJ from was playing it with thepowercord broken

> > for some time.
> > Seams like everytime i mess with the volume the reset happens and
> > there is alot of static noise once i change volume.
> > Thanks!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Hello again!
> I'm assuming you have an -02 in there.  Take a look at this picture
> and compare it to yours (the pic is an -02 version):http://therealbobroberts.net/ar2.jpg
> -Just as it says, if both sides of the heat-synch have parts, you'll
> need the -02 version.  If you only have 1 side populated with parts,
> you'll just need the -01 version since it doesn't include the caps on
> the unpopulated side.
>
> From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
> problem - so I'd make sure that yourpowercord has the 3rd grounding

> prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.
> I'd also check the service panel to make sure there aren't any shorts
> on the credit button, service switch, etc.
>
> As for the static when you change the volume, that will happen if the
> volume control is dirty.  While the machine is off, just turn it back
> and forth a bunch of times to knock off some of the corrosion in the
> pot.  Radio Shack also sells a cleaner just for this purpose - squirt
> it in - rotate back-n-forth - wait for it to dry - and you should be
> set.
>
> Enjoy,
>   Chuck- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

BTW there was a (black wire) ground that was disconnected that went
with the white wires(2).So I connected it with the other two black
grounded wires.Should i have it grounded to the switch (power on) or
the other two black grounded wires?
is this the reason why teh power on switch does not work?

Nafster

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 3:13:58 PM4/8/08
to
On Apr 2, 2:30 pm, SchifWare <schifw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>   Chuck- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -
From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
problem - so I'd make sure that your power cord has the 3rd grounding
prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.

It was busted off (the bottom prong that goes into the wall)
But now it does not turn on using the switch.Only when plugging it in
the wall.Should one of the (black) grounds go to the switch? I
connected all three together (blacks)

William

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 7:02:14 PM4/8/08
to

Don't you have a manual? If you cross connect the wrong wires you
could seriously fry your machine.

Nafster

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 9:41:46 PM4/8/08
to
> could seriously fry your machine.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

No I dont have a manual and I was thinking the same about frying the
boards..Everything works good now with Green with green and white on
white and black on black.I basically tied the wires with caps the same
as when it was hooked up when i got which was last week.It was a bad
ground with one of the black wires and the cord had and broken prong
at the end where you plug in wall (bottom) But my switch to turn the
game on does not work.Turns on when it plug it in wall.On and off
switch does nothing??I think the ground (black ) wire that comes from
the power unit needs to be grounded to switch.
Will it fry my game if i keep plugging it in to run it?

Ron Lyons

unread,
Apr 8, 2008, 11:26:57 PM4/8/08
to

"Nafster" <jmg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9b382e01-f794-43e7...@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...


Be very careful here... I think you're confused as to how A/C power works,
and it's extremely dangerous.

If you've got a green, a white, and a black, the black is most certainly not
ground at all, it's probably actually the hot wire. If you ground the hot
side of the a/c you're going to have major problems ranging from a few
sparks all the way up to blown fuses, blown boards, blown circuits in your
house, heart problems and fires. You probably won't have all that, but hell
you could.

Don't go putting wires here and there and grounding this and that without
first figuring out just what the hell you're looking at. An on/off switch
usually is just placed inline on the incoming 'hot' line on the game, you
definately don't want to ground one of those wires.

Also keep in mind you can't always trust colors, i.e. black isn't always
hot, isn't always ground, doesn't always mean anything at all. You really
need to track down what each wire is, and if you don't understand how a/c
voltage works (which you clearly don't!), you really need to be careful.

There's nothing wrong with not knowing something. Just be careful.

Ron


SchifWare

unread,
Apr 9, 2008, 12:16:53 AM4/9/08
to
> Will it fry my game if i keep plugging it in to run it?- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Check out page 2 (Main Wiring Diagram) in the following file:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/Return_of_the_Jedi_SP-227_1st_Printing.pdf

Hopefully from there you should be able to trace the correct wiring
vs. what you have. You'll find the power plug and switch wiring (with
colors) in the upper-right of the diagram on that page. Your current
setup is probably OK, but I'd definitely put it back to the way it
should be ASAP. It sounds like you've bypassed the switch by tying
the while, black and greens together, so I'd want to make sure you
didn't bypass anything else (like the fuse, filter, etc.) which could
not only damage your game, but also be a fire/shock hazard!

Here you'll find the manual and a service bulletin (plus the Schematic
doc above):
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/

Let us know how it goes & good luck!
-Chuck

Nafster

unread,
Apr 9, 2008, 3:48:30 PM4/9/08
to
> > > > > > Guy i bought the ROTJ from was playing it with thepowercord broken

> > > > > > for some time.
> > > > > > Seams like everytime i mess with the volume the reset happens and
> > > > > > there is alot of static noise once i change volume.
> > > > > > Thanks!- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Hello again!
> > > > > I'm assuming you have an -02 in there.  Take a look at this picture
> > > > > and compare it to yours (the pic is an -02 version):http://therealbobroberts.net/ar2.jpg
> > > > > -Just as it says, if both sides of the heat-synch have parts, you'll
> > > > > need the -02 version.  If you only have 1 side populated with parts,
> > > > > you'll just need the -01 version since it doesn't include the caps on
> > > > > the unpopulated side.
>
> > > > > From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
> > > > > problem - so I'd make sure that yourpowercord has the 3rd grounding

> > > > > prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.
> > > > > I'd also check the service panel to make sure there aren't any shorts
> > > > > on the credit button, service switch, etc.
>
> > > > > As for the static when you change the volume, that will happen if the
> > > > > volume control is dirty.  While the machine is off, just turn it back
> > > > > and forth a bunch of times to knock off some of the corrosion in the
> > > > > pot.  Radio Shack also sells a cleaner just for this purpose - squirt
> > > > > it in - rotate back-n-forth - wait for it to dry - and you should be
> > > > > set.
>
> > > > > Enjoy,
> > > > >   Chuck- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > From your description, I'd guess that you might have a grounding
> > > > problem - so I'd make sure that yourpowercord has the 3rd grounding

> > > > prong working (not busted off) and correctly connected in the cab.
>
> > > > It was busted off (the bottom prong that goes into the wall)
> > > > But now it does not turn on using the switch.Only when plugging it in
> > > > the wall.Should one of the (black) grounds go to the switch? I
> > > > connected all three together (blacks)
>
> > > Don't you have a manual? If you cross connect the wrong wires you
> > > could seriously fry your machine.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > No I dont have a manual and I was thinking the same about frying the
> > boards..Everything works good now with Green with green and white on
> > white and black on black.I basically tied the wires with caps the same
> > as when it was hooked up when i got which was last week.It was a bad
> > ground with one of the black wires and the cord had and broken prong
> > at the end where you plug in wall (bottom) But my switch to turn the
> > game on does not work.Turns on when it plug it in wall.On and off
> > switch does nothing??I think the ground (black ) wire that comes from
> > thepowerunit needs to be grounded to switch.

> > Will it fry my game if i keep plugging it in to run it?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Check out page 2 (Main Wiring Diagram) in the following file:http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/Re...

>
> Hopefully from there you should be able to trace the correct wiring
> vs. what you have.  You'll find thepowerplug and switch wiring (with

> colors) in the upper-right of the diagram on that page.  Your current
> setup is probably OK, but I'd definitely put it back to the way it
> should be ASAP.  It sounds like you've bypassed the switch by tying
> the while, black and greens together, so I'd want to make sure you
> didn't bypass anything else (like the fuse, filter, etc.) which could
> not only damage your game, but also be a fire/shock hazard!
>
> Here you'll find the manual and a service bulletin (plus the Schematic
> doc above):http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/
>
> Let us know how it goes & good luck!
>   -Chuck- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for all of the input!
Yes i am totally new at this and i was just connecting it the way it
was when i disconncted the A/C. I have not grounded anything but tied
the third black wire which might be the hot wire to the other black
wires which i think was not tied to anything so yes i think it is the
hotwire.
At work atm but when i get home i will definetly look at the main wire
diagram.
i just hooked it up the way it was when i disconnected it because i
knew that having just 2 prongs for the ac cord was wrong and did not
want to play it like this which corrected the problem.
We all have to start somewhere when fixing these games!
I agree having a manual is a must so i dont damage myself or my
belonging's!
Wish i had access to a tech in SW Florida but i dont so the best thing
i can do is learn from experience hopefully not trial and error!
Only work i have done myself is doing flipper rebuilds on my pins and
fuse re-installations and maintenace work.
Enjoy learning about what it takes to keap these games going!
I am a player not a tech!
And yes i need to look into doing basic re-caps and such that is why i
am on here and why this site is such a valuable resource!
Thanks!!!!
Will keep in touch on how its wired and progress!

Nafster

unread,
Apr 9, 2008, 4:03:40 PM4/9/08
to
> Check out page 2 (Main Wiring Diagram) in the following file:http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/Re...

>
> Hopefully from there you should be able to trace the correct wiring
> vs. what you have.  You'll find the power plug and switch wiring (with
> colors) in the upper-right of the diagram on that page.  Your current
> setup is probably OK, but I'd definitely put it back to the way it
> should be ASAP.  It sounds like you've bypassed the switch by tying
> the while, black and greens together, so I'd want to make sure you
> didn't bypass anything else (like the fuse, filter, etc.) which could
> not only damage your game, but also be a fire/shock hazard!
>
> Here you'll find the manual and a service bulletin (plus the Schematic
> doc above):http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Return_of_the_Jedi/
>
> Let us know how it goes & good luck!
>   -Chuck- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Yes! I just got done looking at the diagram for the A/C wiring and the
guy before me wired it with plugs bypassing with the Green(ground)
with the green connected together and the Black with the Black
connected together and the white with the white pluged together! There
is a green wire from what i remember that is disconnected from the on/
off switch that is just sitting there disconnected from everything?
Jsut bought this thing and when i opened it up i knew this was not
right! Will need to get some end switch caps to splice the wires in
them and install the correct way into the switch.
Thanks for the diagram!!!! :)

After this project its off to my Lunar Lander!
After it is turned on everything is working properly then when i give
it a little throttle the sound goes out and the screen goes heywire!!!
and bounces back in a bigger screen not being able to see score or
fuel used!
Any thoughts??
This is another topic that i sill post later?
Naf

0 new messages