Ack! Something horrible at Pennsauken Auction
Bogart, David
I saw the worst sight...
while checking out the games,
I noticed a racing game that was tucked inside a *very*
familiar looking shaped sit down cabinet.
Someone had converted a Star Wars cockpit into a
"Great 1000 Mile Rally" racing game.
I can't begin to describe the horror. The cockpit was painted black
except for the small 'panels' above the entrance to the seat, those were
painted white. A big label was slapped over the marquee.
The original panel art inside was intact, though in rough shape. The
original controller was there, but it was kinda whipped.
At first I thought it was worse than it was...I thought they had
scrapped the original side art off. Actually, it turned out
to be just painted over. It could be potentially restored...
I actually thought I might bid on it just for the cockpit and attempt
to restore it. But I decided I didn't have the time or space in the next
6 months to refurbish it, and I certainly didn't relish
the idea of parting out my upright for it, in addition to trying to dig
upa 25" color vector...: /
I sat in it for a bit...I could almost hear "Use the Force..." calling
out to me *chuckle*
*sigh* What a fate for a wonderful game...of course I am biased too.
I am probably blowing it out of proportion : )
btw - Anybody have any idea what that game went for ?
I didn't have the heart to stick around for it.
Actually was that "Use the Force" I heard ??? Or was it the voice of
the auctioneer saying...
"Hey! This is something I rarely see, pay attention!
A very rare Star Wars cockpit...never mind that it has been
desecrated and violated with a really bad racing
game...lets start the bidding at 1200. "
*grin*
Best to all,
Dave
andywarren
You are right. I just sold a near-mint 25" cockpit to Greg Wilson. He drove
36 hours round trip to pick it up.
I can gaurantee you that machine will be pristeen for many years. I sold it
to him because I have no children to will it to. He was nice enough to pass
on the spare 25" CRT that went with it to someone else restoring one that
had been "repaired" with a 19" monitor.
As a matter of fact, all the ones I had, I saved from the "regamer-man"
I agree; the horror, the horror......
Andy
Bogart, David wrote in message <369942E1...@nycap.rr.com>...
Al Warner
they did the conversion because they used to have a Star Wars sit down and
then they had a conversion. If not, there are two horrors in the world.
-Al-
"Bogart, David" wrote:
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Don Lanway
>
> On the flip-side at the Pennsauken auction they had an Asteroids that was a
> conversion from a Lunar Lander! Probably the same logic at the time.
>
> Interesting thing about this machine is it had white sides with an
> asteroid-shooting theme side art sticker, but it wasn't the normal Asteroids
> picture. Does anyone know if there was repro side art (ala Willis CPOs) or
> is this something unique?
>
> -roy-
Might have been a conversion, but I've heard that the demand for
Asteroids was so strong they actually built a few hundred in Lunar
Lander cabs. Might be one of those really "Rare" machines.
Cheers, Don
James Sweet
all the unsold LL machines, so many of the first ones were in LL
cabinets.
James Sweet
Major Havoc, and a Quantum, both which were converted to Arkanoid.
Yuck...
chumblespuzz
Instead you turned the yoke up and down to accelerate/decelerate.
Sad.
-roy-
Bogart, David wrote in message <369942E1...@nycap.rr.com>...
Vic
friend.. when i got it home i noticed the cabinet had a familiar shape to
it.. came to find out it was the same shape as my Asteroids! Scrape off a
little of the flat black paint on the side and it is an Asteroids! What a
waste is my thinking but at the time I can understand the vendors
perspective too.. Asteroids brings in $10 a month.. this new (at the time)
kit I have will bring in $400.. not a tough choice at all if u ask me.
Anyone have any clues as to how to best remove the old flat black paint and
save the Asteroids art underneath? I am going to leave it as it is now, a
universal Jamma, but to have the Asteroids side art on it would be neat.
Any ideas? Thanks.
-Vic
chumblespuzz
conversion from a Lunar Lander! Probably the same logic at the time.
Interesting thing about this machine is it had white sides with an
asteroid-shooting theme side art sticker, but it wasn't the normal Asteroids
picture. Does anyone know if there was repro side art (ala Willis CPOs) or
is this something unique?
-roy-
Vic wrote in message <3699840B...@mindless.com>...
rmel...@hotmail.com
> I just picked up a WWF SuperStars in working condition for $50 from a
> friend.. when i got it home i noticed the cabinet had a familiar shape to
> it.. came to find out it was the same shape as my Asteroids! Scrape off a
> little of the flat black paint on the side and it is an Asteroids! What a
> waste is my thinking but at the time I can understand the vendors
> perspective too.. Asteroids brings in $10 a month.. this new (at the time)
> kit I have will bring in $400.. not a tough choice at all if u ask me.
> Anyone have any clues as to how to best remove the old flat black paint and
> save the Asteroids art underneath? I am going to leave it as it is now, a
> universal Jamma, but to have the Asteroids side art on it would be neat.
> Any ideas? Thanks.
3M Safest Stripper works well. Just be careful with whatever you're stripping
the paint with - you don't want to scratch the original side art.
On a side note, has anyone had any experiences using steel wool to remove
stripper-weakened paint? I saw someone using it on a home improvement show
and wondered how it would work on arcade game side art. My first impulse
would be to wonder if the steel wool would scratch the art, but then, I don't
know because I'm too chicken to try... Russ M.
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Matthew Sell
I have an Asteroids with a white side, but has the sideart graphics that are
supposed to be there.
The graphics is not a big sticker, but appears to be applied in "layers", just
like Space Duel, Star Wars, etc.
I have seen both the Black-sided Asteroids and have seen one other White-sided
Asteroids besides mine, and the artwork on both is the same.
At first I wanted to get rid of my White Asteroids because it was different, but
I'm going to keep it because I think it looks better in my house than a black one
would. Just my opinion.
The serial number is 45074.
- Matt
Don Lanway wrote:
> chumblespuzz wrote:
> >
> > On the flip-side at the Pennsauken auction they had an Asteroids that was a
> > conversion from a Lunar Lander! Probably the same logic at the time.
> >
> > Interesting thing about this machine is it had white sides with an
> > asteroid-shooting theme side art sticker, but it wasn't the normal Asteroids
> > picture. Does anyone know if there was repro side art (ala Willis CPOs) or
> > is this something unique?
> >
> > -roy-
>
> Might have been a conversion, but I've heard that the demand for
> Asteroids was so strong they actually built a few hundred in Lunar
> Lander cabs. Might be one of those really "Rare" machines.
>
> Cheers, Don
--
"One World, One Web, One Program" - Microsoft Promotional Ad
"Ein Volk, Ein Reich, Ein Fuhrer" - Adolf Hitler
Many thanks for this tagline to a fellow RGVAC'er
rob...@my-dejanews.com
plastic brush. This has worked great for me on both stickers and paint under
the paint to be removed. There is also a stripper I found that is in a spray
can. It comes out in a foam, and is easy to control the location of the
spray. I wish I could remember the name...
Rob
In article <77d97l$qlp$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
Steve Weinrich
very least it will scratch and damage the side-art paint underneath, at
worst the fibers will become embedded in the softened side-art paint. Not
good. :)
The best thing to do is:
1. Lightly (lightly) sand the paint to be removed using 100 grit sand
paper. This will give the stripper more surface area to work on. Don't
sand too deep or you'll endanger the art below. Just scratch up the paint,
no elbow grease needed.
2. Apply a thick (THICK) coating of the 3M Safest Stripper, then let it
work for about an hour.
3. Using a plastic (not metal) putty knife, remove the stripper and
whatever paint it will remove. A sponge will also work here since the 3M
stuff softens the paint so well.
4. Immediately wash the surface with water using a wet sponge. No soap is
required, just be sure to wipe the surface clean several (several) times so
as to remove all the stripper.
This has worked for me many times.
The only hard part is determining how long to let the stripper stay on.
Since the 3M stuff is a paste, it can be applied to a small (inconspicuous)
test area and it won't run all over the rest of the machine. Try it in a
small spot, keeping track of the time and the results. Then, once you are
happy with the outcome, do it to the whole machine.
Good luck and let us know how this worked!
-Steve
steve.w...@wonderware.com
rmel...@hotmail.com wrote in message <77d97l$qlp$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
Fanielle
>stripper-weakened paint? I saw someone using it on a home improvement show
>and wondered how it would work on arcade game side art. My first impulse
>would be to wonder if the steel wool would scratch the art, but then, I don't
>know because I'm too chicken to try... Russ M.
i have done this before and if you are not too careful you will definatly
scratch the art underneath.
Gwendesire
>Yuck...
>
I tink this is a pretty common fate for Quantums. Although in that cabinet it
makes a darn good looking Arkanoid!
Gwend...@Aol.com
_________________________
1942 / Kangaroo / Playchoice 10 / Dracula Pinball
rmel...@hotmail.com
> Don't use steel wool. 3M Safest Stripper even tells you not to. At the
> very least it will scratch and damage the side-art paint underneath, at
> worst the fibers will become embedded in the softened side-art paint. Not
> good. :)
Yeeck. No, not good.
> The best thing to do is:
>
> 1. Lightly (lightly) sand the paint to be removed using 100 grit sand
> paper. This will give the stripper more surface area to work on. Don't
> sand too deep or you'll endanger the art below. Just scratch up the paint,
> no elbow grease needed.
>
> 2. Apply a thick (THICK) coating of the 3M Safest Stripper, then let it
> work for about an hour.
>
> 3. Using a plastic (not metal) putty knife, remove the stripper and
> whatever paint it will remove. A sponge will also work here since the 3M
> stuff softens the paint so well.
>
> 4. Immediately wash the surface with water using a wet sponge. No soap is
> required, just be sure to wipe the surface clean several (several) times so
> as to remove all the stripper.
>
> This has worked for me many times.
>
> The only hard part is determining how long to let the stripper stay on.
> Since the 3M stuff is a paste, it can be applied to a small (inconspicuous)
> test area and it won't run all over the rest of the machine. Try it in a
> small spot, keeping track of the time and the results. Then, once you are
> happy with the outcome, do it to the whole machine.
That sounds like a good process. Thank you! I will try that and let
everyone know the results. Right now I am stripping the paint off both
Donkey Kong and Tempest. Tempest is a little more important - I can always
do a hack job on DK and putty and repaint it. UNfortunately, I used a razor
before and there's some spots where the art was ripped up. Any ideas how to
fix this? Contact cement? Superglue? (not kidding :)) Paste? And what
should I put over it afterwards to protect it?
> Good luck and let us know how this worked!
>
> -Steve
> steve.w...@wonderware.com
Thanks again, Steve!
Russ Melanson
>> work for about an hour.
One hour was too much. My artwork is now peeling and pretty much
screwed...no biggie though, it had a lot of gouges in it before from the
razor. I if I had done it all at once rather than doing bits at a time it
would have worked better, but I still couldn't get all the paint off...For
instance,
You know how bright the oranges and reds are on the Tempest side art? Well,
with razor OR plastic putty, after an hour of letting the Safest Stripper do
it's work, I could only manage to scrape off enough paint to let you see the
color beneath, but not completely remove it. It was like the art was
covered with dirt, but dirt that wouldn't come off with soap and
water...SO....
I think I did a foolish thing here, but oh well, how else do you learn...I
took some turpentine and rubbed at the dirty art.
It sort of worked - the dirt stuff did come off....but it mostly just
smeared around in swirls, and it took a LOT of elbow grease to get just a
SMALL part clean enough to look respectable. Plus, the areas of art that
had bubbled were made all the worse for this rubbing.
So, I'm going to just call it a loss and paint over it again...unless
someone from the MN area wants to try their hand at it...
It's a original Tempest cabinet with newly-scratched up sideart, horizontal
JAMMA conversion 1P one joystick two button. I can't look at it anymore,
it's too depressing. Even with the crappy art, it's an awesome cabinet -
it's got a setup so that you can rotate the monitor easily (although I've
never done it). The only problem is the amount of work it would take to
craft a decent control panel for it (it's got the old metal Atari one on it
and I don't have a drill or a clue about how to work on it)
I think it would be a good project if someone wanted to attempt a challenge
of rebuilding an entire Tempest cabinet or just putzing around with a decent
JAMMA cabinet.
Oh well.
>> 3. Using a plastic (not metal) putty knife, remove the stripper and
>> whatever paint it will remove. A sponge will also work here since the 3M
>> stuff softens the paint so well.
The sponge worked out OK - I used one of those scrubby things (also from 3M
maybe) that has a sponge on one side and a scrubby on the other.
>> 4. Immediately wash the surface with water using a wet sponge. No soap
is
>> required, just be sure to wipe the surface clean several (several) times
so
>> as to remove all the stripper.
Didn't get this far :(
>> The only hard part is determining how long to let the stripper stay on.
>> Since the 3M stuff is a paste, it can be applied to a small
(inconspicuous)
>> test area and it won't run all over the rest of the machine. Try it in a
>> small spot, keeping track of the time and the results. Then, once you
are
>> happy with the outcome, do it to the whole machine.
This is the step I skipped because I had already stripped some of the paint
off - I figured it wasn't coming off well enough with 15 minutes so I let it
sit quite a while...
I really don't understand the results I got this time. It worked REALLY
well on my Donkey Kong cabinet - made stripping a snap. Of course DK didn't
have any art underneath, just the flat original coat, which held up great.
And I even tried it on another machine, and that worked out crappy too.
Maybe I wasn't using it thickly enough....how thick is thick? I spread it
on evenly at a thickness where you could still see through it but there were
some white streaks of thicker areas.
*sigh* practice practice... :)
Good luck,
Russ M.
James Sweet
are much easier to find than the guts, even so, I'd hate to convert a
gutted one, it has such a distictive shape, it would be depressing to
think about what it once was :(