Painting Asteroids

[Zinfer]

I spent the better part of last week painting my Asteroids upright.
Can't believe the results. Orange peel. Am considering taking a belt
sander to it back to the wood. A painter recommended using oil. I
think at this point it'd be nice to find a vinyl laminate.
Not sure if it was the gun, the pressure or just the porousness of the
material. Then again it could have been under-thinning. Current
plans are to strip the water based enamel off and try oil. If that
doesn't work, find some laminate. If I find that oil based works out,
I plan to use it with all restorations.

[Michael Lenardon]

You should have sanded, then applied a primmer, sanded again, then coated
with oil using and automotive sprayer (thinned of course). Then you should
have ordered a wrap around CPO, new vynal sideart, spare cap, transistor
set, and cardboard bezel from arcadeshop.

I also would recommend removing all metal hardware and repainting!

When applying vynal you need a sqeegy, windex to spray all over the back of
the sideart, and cabinet, before applying.

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3e16edaa....@news-server.woh.rr.com...

[Zinfer]

Right! Your a few steps ahead of me. I plan to do all you mentioned.
Guess I didn't describe in detail as I should have.
I filled any problem areas with Elmers wood putty. Sanded the entire
surface smooth. Primed with Kilz water base sealer. Sanded entire
area. Painted one side with foam roller (test) of Semi-Gloss black
(glidden water base enamel). Got orange peel. Sanded paint down
again with finish sander. Used automotive sprayer (thinned paint 1
cup per quart) and ran around 50psi I tried 40 on the opposite side.
Wasn't happy with the roller, foam or not.
Still in painting stages of cabinet. Plans are to paint all removed
parts and then new CPO and vinyl sideart.
I'm presuming you chose the wrap around CPO rather than the original
CPO for maintenance sake.
The primary difference I see in painting technique is that you chose
oil rather than water based enamel. That's my next stop after belt
sanding back down to the wood. Shame. Hate doing a job twice. Once
I get it figured out though I should be able to apply this to all
restorations. Assuming I don't get orange peel with oil-based enamel.
I suppose it could be my spray gun as well. Not atomizing the paint
correctly.

[prOk]

Sounds like you have the paint thinned enough, just too high pressure and
probably letting WAY too much paint through the gun..

That and an automotive sprayer is not the best choice for spraying enamels..
Auto paint is way thinner by nature than even thinned enamel gets.

http://www.tutankham.com/joustresto.htm
I sprayed the brown on this joust with a standard duty canister gun and got
an extremely smooth surface.

/b

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:3e170692....@news-server.woh.rr.com...

[Zinfer]

Love what you did with that. One thing I noticed however was that it
looks like the Joust had a ply you were spraying onto whereas on
Asteroids it was pressboard. Not sure if that makes a major
difference, but I as a matter of fact, was looking at one of those
Cambbell Hausfeld spray guns just the other day. I'm probably going
to pick one of those up and try that.
You didn't mention if your paint was oil or water based? And what
sort of pressure did you use? 30-40?

[prOk]

Yea, joust is a plywood cab. But, with 2 coats of primer sanded at 220 in
between the final painting surface is the same as it would be if the wood
was pressboard. I've used the same process on both.. if you look at the
pepper 2 restoration on my site you'll see the same gun used with semi gloss
white on pressboard. I've used both oil and water based enamels with this
gun.. Personally, I like the durability of water based enamels better..
some will argue, but I find that oil paints show marks much more readily
when scuffed than water based.

I regulate pressure to about 35-40 pounds and really get tight with the
amount of paint allowed through the gun. Goes on really nice and smooth.

/b

http://www.tutankham.com

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:3e170eeb....@news-server.woh.rr.com...

[Zinfer]

Ok, I ran down to Home Depot and picked up that very same gun. Going
to have to run to Lowe's to pick up an end-bit for the connection to
the compressor-bums.
May have to make a late run for paint tonight after I finish sanding
the surface back down to primer coat. Did you thin with water or use
this 'Flotrol'?
Ran out of Kilz Sealer so might as well pick some of that up too. Can
you recommend a better primer?
Thanks for the tip on oil vs. water base. I'd like to stick with
water as it's easier for cleanup. I'll bump the pressure down to
35-40 on the regulator and try that too. Going to have to pick up a
condensation filter eventually. No fish-eyes needed.
Will let you know how it all turns out.

Thanks a bunch! Going to have to check out more on your page.

-Rod

[Christopher Bedwell]

you want me to post a link to a photo of my last asteroids machine that
didnt co-operate with my restoration efforts ?

- Chris.
www.myarcadegames.com
( Perth, Western Australia )

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

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[James Sweet]

How much did you thin the paint? I have that same gun, haven't really had a
chance to use it yet though.

"prOk" <bso...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:D0ER9.74076$j8.18...@twister.tampabay.rr.com...

[Zinfer]

I picked up some flotrol. Says to use 4-8 oz. per quart. So I'll go
6oz. About to attempt painting here in a minute.

[James Sweet]

Where do you get that stuff from? One of these days I need to paint my
Reactor cabinet.

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

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[prOk]

I use flotrol to help the paint lay super smooth and enough water to thin it
to a 'heavy cream' consistency.. No hard and fast rule as the different
pigments do different things to the paint thickness..

/b

"James Sweet" <james...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:%xPR9.448213$GR5.1...@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

[M. Calvert]

Zinfer, you should set up a webcam so we can watch this soap opera 24
hours a day. As Zinfer's World Turns. hehe

Or you can have a show called "This Old Asteroids". hehe

Matt

rmas...@hotmail.com (Zinfer) wrote in message news:<3e172d11...@news-server.woh.rr.com>...

[Zinfer]

Heh, as a matter of fact I have!

[Zinfer]

Picked it up at Lowe's. Little surprised after adding 6 oz. of it to
the Kilz primer. Wasn't much of a thinning agent. It was about the
same consistency as the primer. I think it prolongs the drying times
though.

On Sun, 05 Jan 2003 06:20:16 GMT, "James Sweet"

[Zinfer]

Hmm. You add flotrol AND water? I just did the flotrol thing with
the primer. Not sure I should add water as well to the paint? But if
you got good results I guess I should. Say about maybe 1/2 cup or
less?

[Zinfer]

Thanks Prok, for your painting advice. The top, front and right side
are really starting to look great! The left side however, is another
matter. It's got blotches of what looks like wet spots, but they are
dry. Uneven in drying. Some areas looking dull and flat, while others
shiny and reflective. Was curious to ask you if you'd recommend
re-priming the left side or just continue adding new coats?
Now that those areas of the cabinet are looking pretty good I'm
considering masking off the left side, sanding a bit and repriming.
Only thing that occurs to me is perhaps some unnoticeable adhesive was
still on the wood from the previous laminate. But after all the
sanding, priming, painting, sanding back down to wood, priming,
sanding and re-painting, you'd think that surface should have been
clean of anything. I can tell you first hand the surface was smooth
and clear to the touch before this second bout of preparation.
Last thing, did you put any kind of topcoat on your joust? Like a
clear-coat? Not sure if they even have such a thing for wb enamel.

On Sun, 05 Jan 2003 06:30:39 GMT, "prOk" <bso...@hotmail.com> wrote:

[prOk]

Hi.. Glad it's beginning to work out for you.. For the one bum side i'd
just sand it smooth again and reshoot. No need to reprime.

In the case of joust, yes I put a final coat of gloss clear on it.. That's
what the original cabs had so I recreated it.

/b

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

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[djhurt1]

"Zinfer" <rmas...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3e16edaa....@news-server.woh.rr.com...

> I spent the better part of last week painting my Asteroids upright.
> Can't believe the results. Orange peel. Am considering taking a belt
> sander to it back to the wood. A painter recommended using oil. I
> think at this point it'd be nice to find a vinyl laminate.

You won't do much better with the vinyl laminate. I used a vinyl paint on my
Tron cab and it did the same thing. I'm going to do the same thing you've
done, sand it down and try again. Shame cause the color matched perfectly!
Anyways, what do you guys think about sanding to smooth the paint and
applying a few more coats? Do you think that would help to smooth out the
finish? I don't know jack about painting, any advice is appreciated.
djhurt1

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[Zinfer]

I ended up, after a couple more coats of semi-gloss black, repriming
the left side. After a couple heavy primer coats I sanded and then
recoated with about 2 heavy coats of black. Sanded and hit it with
one final coat of black. That seemed to have licked the problem. It
dried evenly and there is now a nice sheen on the left side panel.
Final question is this: Now the cabinet is ready for new sideart.
After applying the sideart, is that the time to hit it with a
clear-coat? or should I hit it with a clear coat, then apply the
sideart? My feeling is to apply the sideart and then cover it with a
clear-coat. Problem is you can't use Flotrol with a clearcoat and
you'd end up using water as the primary thinner. Or should you even
bother with a clear-coat? Feeling on this is that the clear-coat
would act as a protectant as well as keeping the side-art down.

On Sun, 5 Jan 2003 23:52:36 -0700, "djhurt1" <djh...@hamilton.net>
wrote: