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Trying to convert 74' Atari tank to JAMMA questions...

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Nama

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Feb 25, 2008, 4:21:37 PM2/25/08
to
I have a soft spot for some of the stone age games. I have two Atari
Tank boards that I want to build a Jamma adaptor so that I can play it
using my supergun.

The pinouts say that the boards need +6.3v, +5v and -12v. Does anyone
know of a power supply that can produce these voltages?

My second question is regarding the Tank controls and wether it is
possible to convert it to a multi directional joystick . As I haven't
played this came for at least 28 years, my memory on how the controls
function is very fuzzy.
The game has 4 joysticks, two for each player. I believe these are
only 'two directional' (up and down) type. If a player pushes both
forward then then I assume the tank moves forward, if one joystick is
pushed forward, does the thank move forward and turn? If one joystick
is pulled back and the other one pushed forward does the tank turn on
the spot?

finally, does anyone remember if it is possible to play this game as a
single player, or is it always a two player game?

Thanks in advance

Nama

Matt Griffin

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Feb 25, 2008, 11:47:10 PM2/25/08
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"Nama" <forum...@mac.com> wrote in message
news:7afca86d-bf32-4da0...@s19g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

Question 1:

Converting Tank to JAMMA is not going to be easy. It does not take the
standard +5dc, -5dc and +12dc that JAMMA uses. The inputs you would need to
feed it are 6.3v AC and 12.6v AC. It takes these Ac voltages then changes
them on the PCB to the +5dc, +12dc and -12dc that the board uses for the
chips. I imagine it may be possible if you do some modifications to the
board but that is beyond what I can help you with.

Question 2:

Once again it seems like it would be tough to convert this to a JAMMA
setup.The controls for each player are the two joysticks and they are both
two way joysticks that work as followed. Just moving one stick will do
nothing. I just verified this on my tank game

move forward: push both sticks up
to stop: pull both sticks back
turn right: push left stick up pull right stick back
turn left: pull left stick back push right stick forward

Question 3
It's just a two player game

hope that answers your questions. Sorry to make it sound so tough to do.

Matt


goo...@brentradio.com

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Feb 26, 2008, 4:35:17 AM2/26/08
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Boy you're lucky, I thought you wanted to convert an Atari Tank CAB to
jamma.

I was gonna have to come and kick your ass.

:-)

Good luck with that. I'm interested to know if you can get it working
right.

Brent

Chad Tower

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Feb 26, 2008, 12:34:15 PM2/26/08
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On Feb 26, 4:35 am, goog...@brentradio.com wrote:
> Boy you're lucky, I thought you wanted to convert an Atari Tank CAB to
> jamma.
>
> I was gonna have to come and kick your ass.


I was lacing up my boots. I'm restoring a Tank II right now.

Matt, 12.6vAC? Which PCB1 contacts? The schematic shows all four
voltage inputs should be 6.3vAC - however 2 and 3 are labeled LO while
4 and 5 are labeled HI.

The inputs on my boards measure 7.3vAC on 2-3 and 14.8vAC on 4-5,
though.

See here for a long ass thread on the one I'm doing:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=75297.msg799396#msg799396

Matt Griffin

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Feb 26, 2008, 2:25:24 PM2/26/08
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"Chad Tower" <to...@gis.net> wrote in message
news:81e355e8-672f-4ede...@t66g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I was using this manual as a guide
http://www.cityofberwyn.com/bronzeage/VGL_VolIII_Tank.pdf. it breaks down
all the circuits into easier to understand sections. and according to it
2 - 3 are 6.3v AC and 4 - 5 are 12.6v AC which would be correspond nicely
to the reading your getting. I can measure my game when I get home tonight
to verify but that will probably by around 6pm PST. Good luck

Matt


Chad Tower

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Feb 26, 2008, 3:36:44 PM2/26/08
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On Feb 26, 2:25 pm, "Matt Griffin" <blindd...@remove.hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I was using this manual as a guidehttp://www.cityofberwyn.com/bronzeage/VGL_VolIII_Tank.pdf. it breaks down


> all the circuits into easier to understand sections. and according to it
> 2 - 3 are 6.3v AC and 4 - 5 are 12.6v AC which would be correspond nicely
> to the reading your getting. I can measure my game when I get home tonight
> to verify but that will probably by around 6pm PST. Good luck

You don't have to verify... but thanks for the offer. The inputs do
look good. The problem part is that the 5v looks like 4.7v and the
-12v looks like -10.6v. The conversion circuit isn't quite up to
snuff. I'm hoping a full replacement of all electrolytics will help
out.

Matt Griffin

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Feb 26, 2008, 4:01:17 PM2/26/08
to

"Chad Tower" <to...@gis.net> wrote in message
news:cd437c9b-f255-4da5...@k2g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

> On Feb 26, 2:25 pm, "Matt Griffin" <blindd...@remove.hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I was using this manual as a guide
>> http://www.cityofberwyn.com/bronzeage/VGL_VolIII_Tank.pdf . it breaks
>> down
>> all the circuits into easier to understand sections. and according to it
>> 2 - 3 are 6.3v AC and 4 - 5 are 12.6v AC which would be correspond
>> nicely
>> to the reading your getting. I can measure my game when I get home
>> tonight
>> to verify but that will probably by around 6pm PST. Good luck
>
>
>
> You don't have to verify... but thanks for the offer. The inputs do
> look good. The problem part is that the 5v looks like 4.7v and the
> -12v looks like -10.6v. The conversion circuit isn't quite up to
> snuff. I'm hoping a full replacement of all electrolytics will help
> out.

You may want to look at the power circuit in that manual I linked to. Page 6
provides test points and tells what voltages you should see on your volt
meter and goes over the circuit in a little detail

-Matt


Chad Tower

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Feb 26, 2008, 4:21:03 PM2/26/08
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On Feb 26, 4:01 pm, "Matt Griffin" <blindd...@remove.hotmail.com>
wrote:

> You may want to look at the power circuit in that manual I linked to. Page 6


> provides test points and tells what voltages you should see on your volt
> meter and goes over the circuit in a little detail


I will, thanks. I can't see the manual right now so I can't comment
on what is in it. Websense has me handcuffed until I get home.

Nama

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Feb 26, 2008, 7:12:38 PM2/26/08
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On Feb 26, 1:47 pm, "Matt Griffin" <blindd...@remove.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> "Nama" <forums6...@mac.com> wrote in message

This is all great info.
I assume Tank and TankII are the same 12.6vac and 6.3vac inputs?
If I can find the right transformer, maybe I can build a power
supply...A little scary!
Or does anyone know where I could buy something that would do the
trick?
This is the info I could find on the original Triad F-83A transformer.

Triad F-83A Pri:105/115/125V 60Hz
Sec:12.6VCT 5A 12.6VCT 5A

As for converting the two 2 way controllers to a single 4 way
joystick, I think this would work:

4 way joystick up - connect to right up and left up
4 way joystick down - connects to right down and left down
4 way joystick left - connects to right up and left down
4 way joystick right - connects to right up and left down
fire button connects to fire.
(repeat for player 2)

...or am I incorrect?

Nama

Matt Griffin

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Feb 26, 2008, 7:29:40 PM2/26/08
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> This is all great info.
> I assume Tank and TankII are the same 12.6vac and 6.3vac inputs?
> If I can find the right transformer, maybe I can build a power
> supply...A little scary!
> Or does anyone know where I could buy something that would do the
> trick?
> This is the info I could find on the original Triad F-83A transformer.
>
> Triad F-83A Pri:105/115/125V 60Hz
> Sec:12.6VCT 5A 12.6VCT 5A
>
> As for converting the two 2 way controllers to a single 4 way
> joystick, I think this would work:
>
> 4 way joystick up - connect to right up and left up
> 4 way joystick down - connects to right down and left down
> 4 way joystick left - connects to right up and left down
> 4 way joystick right - connects to right up and left down
> fire button connects to fire.
> (repeat for player 2)
>
> ...or am I incorrect?
>
> Nama

Yes you right about the four way joystick that should work. I thought about
that later on that night but I guess I usually think 8 way when I hear
JAMMA.


Chad Tower

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Feb 27, 2008, 7:53:07 AM2/27/08
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Hey, Matt, that VGL article looks insanely helpful. Thanks! Who
could ask for a more detailed set of test points in a third party
document?
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