Can I replace a 0 Ohm resistor with a 1K Ohm resistor?

[calab...@yahoo.com]

I tested the w4 resistor (0 Ohm 1/4 watt) on my earthshaker and it appears bad.

Can't find a 0 Ohm resistor. Where can I purchase a couple of 0 Ohm resistors? Thanks.

[Retrogameconnection]

On Oct 8, 4:40 pm, calabri...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I tested the w4 resistor (0 Ohm 1/4 watt) on my earthshaker and it appears bad.
>
> Can't find a 0 Ohm resistor.  Where can I purchase a couple of 0 Ohm resistors?  Thanks.

0 Ohm resistors are usually replaced with a piece of wire. Much more
reliable than a 0 ohm resistor and sure to deliver 0 ohms every time!

[Shredso]

Use your cut off long legs from caps or diodes.


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This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com

[Kerry Imming]

"Retrogameconnection" <win...@ca.rr.com> wrote in message
news:542310cf-96e2-4f45...@g7g2000pbh.googlegroups.com...

> 0 Ohm resistors are usually replaced with a piece of wire. Much more
> reliable than a 0 ohm resistor and sure to deliver 0 ohms every time!

Yes, 0 ohm resistor is just a jumper and a piece of wire will work fine. A
lead cut off a resistor is a perfect jumper.

0 ohm resistors exist for easier automatic insertion equipment handling
during manufacturing.

- Kerry

[jvca...@yahoo.com]

On Monday, October 8, 2012 7:40:18 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:
> I tested the w4 resistor (0 Ohm 1/4 watt) on my earthshaker and it appears bad.
>

What are you seeing that you think a 0 Ohm resistor (jumper) is bad???

Mamushka

[calab...@yahoo.com]

Pop bumpers and shaker motor stopped working. Grounded the solenoids but to no avail. Jumped power to the solenoids and they worked. Tested the resistors and w4 had a different reading than w1 through w5. I replaced w4 (0 Ohm resistor) with a lead but still not working.

[Jazman]

Generally 0-ohm resistors don't fail unless they fuse open. You will
generally see visual evidence of the failure...

Jaz


--
Jazman

--------------------------------

[John Robertson]

And the machine is?

Interesting list of tests - grounding the coils didn't work, but they
would work when you provided alternate power? Have the coils got power
when the game is powered on? Should be anything over 24VDC. Should see
the same voltage at the tabs of the driver transistors.

If no voltage then you have a power issue, fuse, wiring, connectors,
check if there is a solenoid power defeat switch by the front door hinge...

John :-#)#

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[calab...@yahoo.com]

No voltage to the coils unless alternate voltage provided. Fuses good, wiring good, replaced the J11 connector. I will check the tabs tomorrow am.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

Earthshaker.

[TheKorn]

calab...@yahoo.com wrote in
news:7050b22d-7e8e-4170...@googlegroups.com:

> No voltage to the coils unless alternate voltage provided. Fuses
> good, wiring good, replaced the J11 connector.

Beg to differ; if you have no voltage at either lug of the coil, then your wiring is
NOT fine.

You replaced J11 where -- on the CPU board or the aux power driver?

(Most likely cause is a wire off in the daisy chain, but there could be other
causes.)

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Subscribe for more footage.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

OK - I tested the pins for voltage on the J11 connector on the aux power board and there is voltage. But there is still no voltage going to the coils. I assume the red/white wire going from the J11 connector on the aux board goes directly to the coil. If true, then is it possible that a wire can just go bad? Or is something else sinister going on.

[bonusmultiplier]

Check for continuity from the J11 connector to the power wire on the coils not working. As the power wires are daisy-chained from one coil to the next it's possible that a wire "upstream" has broken off (as previously mentioned by someone else). The wire color/trace color will be the same throughout that power line. Let us know if there is continuity. jwc

[TheKorn]

calab...@yahoo.com wrote in
news:c6b91bac-c8e0-4e59...@googlegroups.com:

>> > No voltage to the coils unless alternate voltage provided. Fuses
>> > good, wiring good, replaced the J11 connector.
>>
>> Beg to differ; if you have no voltage at either lug of the coil, then
>> your wiring is NOT fine.
>>
>> You replaced J11 where -- on the CPU board or the aux power driver?
>>
>> (Most likely cause is a wire off in the daisy chain, but there could
>> be other causes.)
>

> OK - I tested the pins for voltage on the J11 connector on the aux
> power board and there is voltage. But there is still no voltage going
> to the coils. I assume the red/white wire going from the J11
> connector on the aux board goes directly to the coil.

Not always. That's the power wire, and it daisy chains from coil to coil,
following a "least amount of wire" path. The color will always be consistent, but
it doesn't have to (and probably doesn't) go straight from J11 to that one coil.
It most likely makes a pit stop or two along the way, and that's probably where
you have a break.

Start at the coil in question, and follow that wire. It'll hit another coil, and
there will be a second red/white wire going to that same lug. Keep tracing, and
eventually you'll probably find the point where you have two red/white wires, but
only one of them is connected.

> If true, then
> is it possible that a wire can just go bad?

It's not impossible, but it's WAY down on the list of likely things to happen.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

On Monday, October 8, 2012 7:40:18 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:

> I tested the w4 resistor (0 Ohm 1/4 watt) on my earthshaker and it appears bad.
>
>
>
> Can't find a 0 Ohm resistor. Where can I purchase a couple of 0 Ohm resistors? Thanks.

Checked continuity on the pop bumper coils and got a reading of more than 0. Eye balled the red/white power wire that is daisy chained on all 3 pops and traced it all the way up to 12pin on J11 on aux board. Unless there is a break inside the insulation, I am guessing that the wiring is OK and since there is continuity, there isn't a wiring problem.

This is frustrating.

[Tektune]

"> OK - I tested the pins for voltage on the J11 connector on the aux
> power board and there is voltage. But there is still no voltage going
> to the coils. I assume the red/white wire going from the J11

> connector on the aux board goes directly to the coil.[/color]

Not always. That's the power wire, and it daisy chains from coil to
coil,
following a "least amount of wire" path. The color will always be
consistent, but
it doesn't have to (and probably doesn't) go straight from J11 to that
one coil.
It most likely makes a pit stop or two along the way, and that's
probably where
you have a break."

OK- So you can't see a problem by looking at the wire. Use your
voltmeter- you have voltage at the aux board, trace that wire to the
next coil and check at that point, then continue on down the line until
you don't measure the voltage. It should be easy to find the spot where
you lose the voltage. As others have said, the wire is daisy chained to
many of the coils. And, check the connector at the aux board carefully,
the header pins often have cracked or melted solder, and the wire itself
may be loose/poorly crimped into the connector insert (the metal contact
in the connector body that connects to the header pin on the circuit
board).


--
Tektune

[TheKorn]

calab...@yahoo.com wrote in
news:c2bfcbe0-1776-4ad0...@googlegroups.com:

> Checked continuity on the pop bumper coils and got a reading of more
> than 0. Eye balled the red/white power wire that is daisy chained on
> all 3 pops and traced it all the way up to 12pin on J11 on aux board.
> Unless there is a break inside the insulation, I am guessing that the
> wiring is OK and since there is continuity, there isn't a wiring
> problem.
>
> This is frustrating.

I have a question for you... when you say you're providing alternate power, where
are you getting that alternate power from?

Reason why I ask is that it's possible (though not entirely likely) that you have a
relay failure instead of a wiring problem. In terms of likelyhoods, for every relay
failure you have thirty to forty wiring problems, which is why everyone went there
first. But if you're really REALLY SURE you don't have a wiring problem, then need
to go on to other candidates.

In fact, here's what ya do. Take off J11 on the aux power board, and measure DC
voltage on every pin, and report back what you see. (Black probe on ground, red
probe on the pins in J11.)

Since you're in there, do the same thing with J12. I know, it's a lot of data
collection, but it'll really give a firm idea of what's going on with your relay.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

After replacing the batteries in my multimeter, I now see that there is voltage for all J11 (43v) and J12 (74v) pins except the two powering the coils and shaker motor. The only thing different on these two pins in the schematic is they are fed by a 0-Ohm resistor. The pins look seated well and are shiny like the rest of the pins. Tomorrow I am going to replace the 0-Ohm resistor with some lead wire.

[TheKorn]

calab...@yahoo.com wrote in
news:be35b018-850d-4442...@googlegroups.com:

> After replacing the batteries in my multimeter, I now see that there
> is voltage for all J11 (43v) and J12 (74v) pins except the two
> powering the coils and shaker motor. The only thing different on
> these two pins in the schematic is they are fed by a 0-Ohm resistor.
> The pins look seated well and are shiny like the rest of the pins.
> Tomorrow I am going to replace the 0-Ohm resistor with some lead wire.

Helping you is next to impossible with such a vague description. Your description
is also IMPOSSIBLE as written.

You need to be VERY SPECIFIC about where you have voltage and where you don't. I
DON'T have an earthshaker hanging around to run and check where the shaker motor and
pop bumpers are hooked up! (Nor should you expect me to do ten minutes of
investigation just to figure out what your reply means!)

Worse, there are THREE DIFFERENT PLACES where a zero ohm jumper could be placed to
get voltage to those points. With zero useable information from you this is just a
pig in a poke.

Bad: "there is voltage except where there isn't"

Good: "there is 48V on J11-1 through 5, nothing on 6 & 7, 25V on 8-10, and 50V on
11 & 12"

Sorry but if we're spending time looking at schematics and trying to figure out YOUR
problem, the least you can do is write a *complete* answer.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

I am trying to provide you information that will, yes help me with my problem.

J11 Pins 1-2 Ov 4-5 43v 6-7 0v 8-10 43v 11-12 0v
J12 Pins 1 0v 2-7 74v 9-10 0v 11-12 74v

On J11, pins 11-12 should have voltage.

[TheKorn]

calab...@yahoo.com wrote in
news:ccb3aff5-f235-4940...@googlegroups.com:

> I am trying to provide you information that will, yes help me with my
> problem.
>
> J11 Pins 1-2 Ov 4-5 43v 6-7 0v 8-10 43v 11-12 0v
> J12 Pins 1 0v 2-7 74v 9-10 0v 11-12 74v
>
> On J11, pins 11-12 should have voltage.

Ahhh, OK. Thank you. Doesn't appear at first glance as though you have a relay
problem; you're seeing voltages where you should. (Though to be 100% sure, you'd
need to check voltages while running the A/C test on J11 1&2, J12 9&10.

You're also correct that J11 11&12 should have voltage. Those are, as you
postulated, powered by a zero ohm resistor. (They can have either 25V or 50V on
them, depending on where the 0V resistor is placed.) So yeah I'd replace that zero
ohm with a piece of wire and see how you get along.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

On Monday, October 8, 2012 7:40:18 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:

> I tested the w4 resistor (0 Ohm 1/4 watt) on my earthshaker and it appears bad.
>
>
>
> Can't find a 0 Ohm resistor. Where can I purchase a couple of 0 Ohm resistors? Thanks.

THanks for your reply. I have been away for a couple of days but will replace the resistor tonight and post the results. Thanks again for sticking with me and helping out. Regards.

[calab...@yahoo.com]

Well, I replaced the 0 Ohm resistor with some lead wire and now I have voltage to the pops and shaker motor (J11 - 11&12 pins). I didn't know a 0 Ohm resistor could go bad. Thanks for all the help. Love my Earthshaker.

[GPE]

Well, I replaced the 0 Ohm resistor with some lead wire and now I have
voltage to the pops and shaker motor (J11 - 11&12 pins). I didn't know a 0
Ohm resistor could go bad. Thanks for all the help. Love my Earthshaker.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some 0 ohm resistors used a ceramic slug with the leads welded to either end
and none of the resistive coating etched off (etching the coating is what
changes it from a zero to some other value). These can crack and fail.

Some 0 ohm resistors are solid wires from end to end with ceramic slugs
slipped over the wire and then insulating coated. These typically don't
fail. Many of the newer ones fall into this category.

Ed

[calab...@yahoo.com]

Ed, Thanks for the explanation.

[KenH]

Ed, very interesting post. The subject line reminded me, whenever we'd come up with a 'negative ohm' resistor value in our calculations, our professor would say 'invent one of those and you'll be a millionaire!'