I have decided what I'm doing to it, but am curious what the general
consensus here is :)
I bought it a year ago, just drug it out of storage this past weekend as I
needed something with pre-fliptronics flippers to test a driver board, and
this was easier to get to than my Funhouse.
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
would take a lot of work to make that game nice.
if theres not too much different on the playfield and plastics you can
scrounge up NOS versions of those for not too bad.
sounds like you need a new display driver, transformer, some other cab
parts and you should be doing ok.
-c
I'd fix it back up & keep it if it were mine !
Pin-Del,
cargpb28
Fix it up. The touchup doesn't look to be too hard except for the pop
bumper area.
should be all solid colors.....
Or have neo or someone do it, you should be able to get a nice working
game that would be easy to sell at chrismtastime to someone.
-scott CARGPB#29
> http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/t2_sample_asrecd
>
> I have decided what I'm doing to it, but am curious what the general
> consensus here is :)
>
> I bought it a year ago, just drug it out of storage this past weekend
> as I needed something with pre-fliptronics flippers to test a driver
> board, and this was easier to get to than my Funhouse.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... hard call. Do you have another T2 you can swap parts
with? I might be tempted to take the red boards, then put together a
player T2 and slap a $900 tag on it.
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the
web or on DVD?
Look at the inserts and some other details, you'll notice some unique
differences.
I'd send it off to a pro and have them do their magic.
> This is a unique sample/prototype game. I don't think John wants to
> sell it, he collects those things.
>
> Look at the inserts and some other details, you'll notice some unique
> differences.
Yeah I could tell it was a sample, but wasn't sure if there were any
playfield differences to make it worth restoring or if it just had red
boards. (Not up on T2 sample/proto/production differences.)
Not really, you can make a nice playing game out of it. Not everything
should be parted out.
It looks better than 1/2 the projects I pick up!
-scott CARGPB#29
Chris
I'm no expert, but definetly some differences. For instance look at
the inserts on the left. Where's "video mode?" Why does it say 3
million instead of (5 of 10, I forgot!)
So this playfield would need to be restored, as it can't be bought NOS.
Now, if it were a run-of-the-mill production T2s, I would sell to
someone as a player as-is. It boots at least, and it is a title that
some people want, so I wouldn't part it out.
Jim
CARGPB35
I'd find an NOS playfield and a better cabinet and then have it rebuilt
by HEP that way. Then I'd just put that playfield with my proto TAF
playfield that's in similar shape with every intention of making them
both wall art at some point but probably never get to it. :-)
--Donnie
If this game was a game that I was a fan of, I would send Neo the
playfield, would clean up the plastics (they all seem in acceptable
condition -- not horribly broken which is amazing), get some new
targets, rubbers and balls from Pinball Life, get a bunch of LED
lights from BCsPinball and then would excitedly put it all together
when I got all the parts back in :)
I wouldn't invest the kind of money it would take to make it look like
new. Soomeone suggested getting it working and making it a player.
Thats not a bad idea. Or find someone who really wants a t2 prototype
and wants to invest the money to make it look nice and sell it to them.
> I'd find an NOS playfield and a better cabinet and then have it rebuilt
> by HEP that way. Then I'd just put that playfield with my proto TAF
> playfield that's in similar shape with every intention of making them
> both wall art at some point but probably never get to it. :-)
I find it amazing the number of projects I have that I fully intend to get
to when I retire in 30-40 years! :)
Yeah, but the sad thing is I've been retired for eight years already!
--Donnie
I just call that pacing yourself. As for me, I have no excuse! :)
I'd take some low light blurry pictures of it, and list it on ebay.
Use words like "great shape, RARE!!, probably just needs a fuse, just
shopped".
Then have a few friends bid it up, and whammo. $1500 in your pocket!
Or just restore it, thats what I'd do :)
Joel
HIOP
That said, I'd fix it up, shop it to make it play 100% and keep it.
I'd have to decide whether to have the playfield repaired by someone
else or do it myself, but I'd keep the game intact and complete.
Mechanicals can be rebuilt and the cabinet can be touched up - the
playfield is the biggest chore. But, like someone said, it's mostly
solid colors.
On Apr 8, 9:51 am, "John Wart, jr" <johnwar...@johnwartjr.com> wrote:
And then I would send it to HEP... It would be worth the wait.
On a side note, "that game is beat!"
Good luck John!
Rob Bell
CARGPB20 ;-)
www.robsgameroom.com
I've always gone by X = prototype, red boards with no X = sample
I have a proto CFTBL with red boards, X serial #
I have a sample Rollergames, red boards, no X in the serial.
I guess it's a grey area. Some say proto, some say sample. Either way, it's
definately a rare bird.
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
"metallik" <Larry...@dlptech.com> wrote in message
news:99d524a9-3c57-493c...@a22g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
I am not going to part it out. I feel it's a piece of history, since T2 was
WMS first DMD *designed* pin. Yeah, GI hit the street first, but that's a
debate I don't feel like having right now :)
At the time being, I have more restorations on my plate than I have time
for. Therefore, I'm not going to do a full blown restore job on this pin at
this time.
I am going to tweak it and shop it out, and enjoy it 'ugly'. Keep my eyes
peeled on eBay and Mr. Pinball to see if any good serviceable T2 parts pop
up.
I have put about 10 hours into the game since I set it up just getting
everything working as it should. Still have a few switches to adjust.
Had to put a new DMD in it, and replace all the speakers, as the 2
aftermarket ones installed did not work. Had some originals from a partout
years ago.
I cleaned up the wiring and converted it correctly, and it blew the breaker
every time I fired it up. Ended up removing everything from the power cord
to the jumpering plug, and replacing the power cord (whomever converted it
cut the end off the original cord and soldered a US cord on to it - no
kidding). I installed a US convenience outlet and US varistor, then replaced
the wire from the line filter to the power switch, and the power switch to
the jumpering plug. After doing all that, it booted up OK, and I've got
somewhere to plug my soldering iron in now!
Pulled the L-7 CPU and P-1 sound ROMS, archived them and installed L-8 CPU
and L-3 sound. Installed a remote battery pack. Wish I had access to a
'proto' ROM revision so the insert lettering matches the display. A few are
different.
Had a bunch of solenoids that didn't work. Found a TIP102 replaced with a
TIP122 that self-destructed, replaced that and it now works and plays 100%,
just ugly as sin.
Still have some electronic work to do. The +5 and +18 are a little low. The
game isn't resetting, but I think I'll replace the appropriate bridges and
caps and get the voltages in line so I don't have to do it in a few months
again. Also going to rebuild the DMD HV section as it's crispy. Works, but
is burnt up real bad.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for T2 parts. Don't want to break the bank with
this one, but need to track down an orange target and a few white ones (if I
don't already have some, will have to look). I'll replace the 3 red targets
with new, as every T2 I've ever seen had those targets beat to death. Have a
repro HK ship and a NOS wire I got from Marco, and could use a repro skull,
but I heard Pinball Inc is running both of those, so I'll just wait. Game
needs a new or nice used ramp too, as the original ramp in the game had no
protectors and the entrance of the right ramp on both sides is busted up
pretty bad. Big time chunks missing. Maybe I'll make my own protectors from
a side rail :)
So, if you are parting a T2, let's be friends :)
T2 is a very simple game - but it's satisfying. I miss the one I traded away
a couple years ago :( It turned out real nice, so hopefully this one will as
well.
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
"John Wart, jr" <johnw...@johnwartjr.com> wrote in message
news:O7WdnfjUoqnv5Wba...@comcast.com...
See ya,
-Mike from MD
> "John Wart, jr" <johnwar...@johnwartjr.com> wrote in messagenews:O7WdnfjUoqnv5Wba...@comcast.com...
>
>
>
> >http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/t2_sample_asrecd
>
> > I have decided what I'm doing to it, but am curious what the general
> > consensus here is :)
>
> > I bought it a year ago, just drug it out of storage this past weekend as I
> > needed something with pre-fliptronics flippers to test a driver board, and
> > this was easier to get to than my Funhouse.
>
> > --
> > --john
>
> > CARGPB34
Yes, I'd say it's much more rare than most of the samples you see out
there... TZ, DM, DH, CV. Wonder why they'd use red boards on a
sample? That'd be the only sample game with red boards I'd ever seen.
They never knew how many protos they were going to build, I don't think,
and I'd guess they just ordered X number of board sets thinking that
would be "enough." When they found they didn't need as many protos as
they got red boards for, they just threw the red boards into the hopper
for the production games.
That said, I could swear I've seen protos that did *not* have X in the
serial number and were DEFINITELY protos. Need to look into that more.
You can see where the wood was marked and cut by HAND on my Slugfest
proto, but I don't think it's got an X...
That doesn't mean there were "samples", though. I don't think all games
got "sample" runs...that is on some they felt there was nothing more to
test, so they just started production. And then on others, they were
really worried so they did a lot. *shrug* And even if they did do
samples, if they didn't change anything for production then there's no
way to know it even was a sample, thus negating the fact that they were
built early anyway.
--Donnie
I guess that will work. But I like the "sell it to Donnie Barnes" plan
better. That's all I'm sayin'. ;-)
--Donnie
Did this game have a DP pf? It sure is worn to heck!
nomad
-Mike
Make it work and then play the rest of the paint off of it. =)