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Tech: TOTAN GI
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kraken
Jul 15, 2012, 1:10:54 AM7/15/12
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A friend's TOTAN was resetting when both flipper buttons were pressed. I was able to fix the reset issue by rebuilding the header pins on J103 on the power driver board as well as rebuilding a bunch of the burnt molex connectors. Somebody had done a hell of a job mixing up wires on this thing. I went through all the connectors and made sure it was all back to "factory" per the manual, but now none of the general illumination lamps work. After working on this thing all day, I'm exhausted and stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Here's what I've done:
-Removed and checked all fuses with DMM
-Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
Here's the weird part. If I check all those with the female connector on J103 disconnected, everything checks out okay with the DMM. For example, pin 2 on J103 has continuity with fuse 114 all the way through to pin 7 on J105 and J106. If one lead is held on pin 2 and touched to any other fuse or pin, no continuity exists. Then, if I attach the female connector to J103 and do the same test using the back side of the connector, all fuses and pins on J105/J106 have continuity. That's not normal, is it? I traced the wires down into the cabinet and disconnected them where they meet the bundle of yellow wires coming from the transformer. Testing this way shows the pins back to "normal" like when the female connector for J103 was off. I'm so confused. What am I missing here?
-Removed and checked all fuses with DMM
-Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
Here's the weird part. If I check all those with the female connector on J103 disconnected, everything checks out okay with the DMM. For example, pin 2 on J103 has continuity with fuse 114 all the way through to pin 7 on J105 and J106. If one lead is held on pin 2 and touched to any other fuse or pin, no continuity exists. Then, if I attach the female connector to J103 and do the same test using the back side of the connector, all fuses and pins on J105/J106 have continuity. That's not normal, is it? I traced the wires down into the cabinet and disconnected them where they meet the bundle of yellow wires coming from the transformer. Testing this way shows the pins back to "normal" like when the female connector for J103 was off. I'm so confused. What am I missing here?
kraken
Jul 15, 2012, 2:21:24 PM7/15/12
to
On Saturday, July 14, 2012 10:10:54 PM UTC-7, kraken wrote:
> A friend's TOTAN was resetting when both flipper buttons were pressed. I was able to fix the reset issue by rebuilding the header pins on J103 on the power driver board as well as rebuilding a bunch of the burnt molex connectors. Somebody had done a hell of a job mixing up wires on this thing. I went through all the connectors and made sure it was all back to "factory" per the manual, but now none of the general illumination lamps work. After working on this thing all day, I'm exhausted and stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Here's what I've done:
Apologies for the wall of text btw.
> A friend's TOTAN was resetting when both flipper buttons were pressed. I was able to fix the reset issue by rebuilding the header pins on J103 on the power driver board as well as rebuilding a bunch of the burnt molex connectors. Somebody had done a hell of a job mixing up wires on this thing. I went through all the connectors and made sure it was all back to "factory" per the manual, but now none of the general illumination lamps work. After working on this thing all day, I'm exhausted and stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Here's what I've done:
> -Removed and checked all fuses with DMM
> -Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
> Here's the weird part. If I check all those with the female connector on J103 disconnected, everything checks out okay with the DMM. For example, pin 2 on J103 has continuity with fuse 114 all the way through to pin 7 on J105 and J106. If one lead is held on pin 2 and touched to any other fuse or pin, no continuity exists. Then, if I attach the female connector to J103 and do the same test using the back side of the connector, all fuses and pins on J105/J106 have continuity. That's not normal, is it? I traced the wires down into the cabinet and disconnected them where they meet the bundle of yellow wires coming from the transformer. Testing this way shows the pins back to "normal" like when the female connector for J103 was off. I'm so confused. What am I missing here?
> -Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
Apologies for the wall of text btw.
kraken
Jul 15, 2012, 3:16:51 PM7/15/12
to
Well, I just did the same tests on my AFM machine (it uses the same board) and it exhibits the same behavior. I guess that's normal then. I have no idea what to check next. Everything works fine on the machine, except there's no general illumination working. Anybody have any suggestions?
Borygard
Jul 15, 2012, 3:47:09 PM7/15/12
to
Yes, that's normal. All GI wiring is tied together at the
transformer. When plugged into the board, your continuity readings
are reading back to the transformer.
If you get no GI at all, it has to be a voltage issue. On WPC-95, two
of the GI circuits are always on, there is no control of the at all.
Voltage in, voltage out.
So, test your AC voltage into the board, connectors, etc. There's
going to be a reason voltage isn't getting to the board.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587
transformer. When plugged into the board, your continuity readings
are reading back to the transformer.
If you get no GI at all, it has to be a voltage issue. On WPC-95, two
of the GI circuits are always on, there is no control of the at all.
Voltage in, voltage out.
So, test your AC voltage into the board, connectors, etc. There's
going to be a reason voltage isn't getting to the board.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587
kraken
Jul 15, 2012, 4:59:50 PM7/15/12
to
On Sunday, July 15, 2012 12:47:09 PM UTC-7, Borygard wrote:
> Yes, that's normal. All GI wiring is tied together at the
> going to be a reason voltage isn't getting to the board.
> > A friend's TOTAN was resetting when both flipper buttons were pressed. I was able to fix the reset issue by rebuilding the header pins on J103 on the power driver board as well as rebuilding a bunch of the burnt molex connectors. Somebody had done a hell of a job mixing up wires on this thing. I went through all the connectors and made sure it was all back to "factory" per the manual, but now none of the general illumination lamps work. After working on this thing all day, I'm exhausted and stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Here's what I've done:
> > -Removed and checked all fuses with DMM
> > -Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
> > Here's the weird part. If I check all those with the female connector on J103 disconnected, everything checks out okay with the DMM. For example, pin 2 on J103 has continuity with fuse 114 all the way through to pin 7 on J105 and J106. If one lead is held on pin 2 and touched to any other fuse or pin, no continuity exists. Then, if I attach the female connector to J103 and do the same test using the back side of the connector, all fuses and pins on J105/J106 have continuity. That's not normal, is it? I traced the wires down into the cabinet and disconnected them where they meet the bundle of yellow wires coming from the transformer. Testing this way shows the pins back to "normal" like when the female connector for J103 was off. I'm so confused. What am I missing here?
I checked all the test points (TP100 through TP106) on the power driver board and they all have very similar readings to the ones on my Attack From Mars board. That should indicate an "off board" issue, correct? How do I test further? Oh, I looked really close at some of the GI lights and they have a very dim glow and sometimes flicker slightly brighter for a split second. The lights in the machine are led's so maybe that's just a voltage leak?
> Yes, that's normal. All GI wiring is tied together at the
> transformer. When plugged into the board, your continuity readings
> are reading back to the transformer.
>
> If you get no GI at all, it has to be a voltage issue. On WPC-95, two
> of the GI circuits are always on, there is no control of the at all.
> Voltage in, voltage out.
>
> So, test your AC voltage into the board, connectors, etc. There's
> are reading back to the transformer.
>
> If you get no GI at all, it has to be a voltage issue. On WPC-95, two
> of the GI circuits are always on, there is no control of the at all.
> Voltage in, voltage out.
>
> going to be a reason voltage isn't getting to the board.
>
> --
> Rob Anthony
> Pinball Classics
> http://LockWhenLit.com
> Quality Board Work - In Home Service
> 314-766-4587
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 15, 12:10 am, kraken <hovina...@gmail.com> wrote:
> --
> Rob Anthony
> Pinball Classics
> http://LockWhenLit.com
> Quality Board Work - In Home Service
> 314-766-4587
>
>
>
>
>
> > A friend's TOTAN was resetting when both flipper buttons were pressed. I was able to fix the reset issue by rebuilding the header pins on J103 on the power driver board as well as rebuilding a bunch of the burnt molex connectors. Somebody had done a hell of a job mixing up wires on this thing. I went through all the connectors and made sure it was all back to "factory" per the manual, but now none of the general illumination lamps work. After working on this thing all day, I'm exhausted and stumped. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Here's what I've done:
> > -Removed and checked all fuses with DMM
> > -Confirmed each pin on J103 has continuity through the correct fuse and corresponding pins on J105 and J106.
> > Here's the weird part. If I check all those with the female connector on J103 disconnected, everything checks out okay with the DMM. For example, pin 2 on J103 has continuity with fuse 114 all the way through to pin 7 on J105 and J106. If one lead is held on pin 2 and touched to any other fuse or pin, no continuity exists. Then, if I attach the female connector to J103 and do the same test using the back side of the connector, all fuses and pins on J105/J106 have continuity. That's not normal, is it? I traced the wires down into the cabinet and disconnected them where they meet the bundle of yellow wires coming from the transformer. Testing this way shows the pins back to "normal" like when the female connector for J103 was off. I'm so confused. What am I missing here?
I checked all the test points (TP100 through TP106) on the power driver board and they all have very similar readings to the ones on my Attack From Mars board. That should indicate an "off board" issue, correct? How do I test further? Oh, I looked really close at some of the GI lights and they have a very dim glow and sometimes flicker slightly brighter for a split second. The lights in the machine are led's so maybe that's just a voltage leak?
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