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Gottlieb EM cabinet repair - Card Whiz
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pokepin
Aug 9, 2012, 4:42:59 PM8/9/12
to
I just got a Gottlieb Card Whiz game and it's got some cabinet issues.
The main problem is the left front corner which has delaminated wood.
See pics below:
Damaged left side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_far.jpg
Damaged left side (closer):
http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_close.jpg
OK right side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/right_side.jpg
Any advice as to how best repair this? I'm thinking wood filler (2-part
epoxy-type), followed by 150 and 600 sandpapering, but that's just from
checking other posts.
Also any tips on repainting this so it looks decent? The other side of
the cabinet looks to be a mirror image. Any way to photograph it,
mirror, and somehow print/laminate it to the damaged area?
--
pokepin
This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com
mikeincali
Aug 9, 2012, 4:49:42 PM8/9/12
to
the damage, then cut a piece of wood the right size and glue it in
place. even if it's a thicker piece, you can sand it down. I looks
like a pretty easy paint match. Make a stencil of the area.
Joe Grenuk
Aug 9, 2012, 5:38:21 PM8/9/12
to
I got a bit nervous when I read "delaminated" wood, which usually
means it got wet. The pics appear to show a solid cabinet that has
been chunked. I'm not so sure I agree with Mike on this one. Cutting
in a piece at that spot is going to cause another issue on the inside
of the cabinet and on the corner where is is going to have to be glued
to the front panel. If it were my game, I would put down probably
three layers of bondo and sand. I know it cures and doesn't dry, but,
that's how I would do it.
And I guess while I am at it, I would disagree with Mike on the
partial stencil suggestion. I think that would be OK if you are aiming
for a "presentable" outcome, but if you are looking for better than
that, the whole cab is going to need to get redone. even if you were
able to execute a perfect paint match for the colors and splatter,
you'd still have a very smooth base next to the old wood which is
going to be anywhwere from a little to a lot rougher, so, the patch
will stick out like Todd Nathan in a group of really nice people.
There are a dozen ways to skin this cat, mine is just how I'd go at
it. Good luck.
Joe
means it got wet. The pics appear to show a solid cabinet that has
been chunked. I'm not so sure I agree with Mike on this one. Cutting
in a piece at that spot is going to cause another issue on the inside
of the cabinet and on the corner where is is going to have to be glued
to the front panel. If it were my game, I would put down probably
three layers of bondo and sand. I know it cures and doesn't dry, but,
that's how I would do it.
And I guess while I am at it, I would disagree with Mike on the
partial stencil suggestion. I think that would be OK if you are aiming
for a "presentable" outcome, but if you are looking for better than
that, the whole cab is going to need to get redone. even if you were
able to execute a perfect paint match for the colors and splatter,
you'd still have a very smooth base next to the old wood which is
going to be anywhwere from a little to a lot rougher, so, the patch
will stick out like Todd Nathan in a group of really nice people.
There are a dozen ways to skin this cat, mine is just how I'd go at
it. Good luck.
Joe
mikeincali
Aug 9, 2012, 5:56:15 PM8/9/12
to
You might be right on the repairs, but I have used bondo and wood fill
on cabinets, and always seem to get those hairline cracks when you
finish sanding, and they will really show when you paint. I have used
wood pieces to fill in the past and it seems to be more solid and
easier to work with. As for the stencils, of course the better way to
do it would be to stencil entire cabinet. I was thinking mostly of the
time time involved. You're turning a minor refurbish into a major
overhaul. No need to replace an engine if it just needs a head gasket.
I guess I'm used to presentable and you guys go for all out collector
quality.
John I
Aug 9, 2012, 6:11:07 PM8/9/12
to
I would set up a 3/8" drill bit with a depth limit and drill a BUNCH of
holes in the entire affected area making sure not to go all the way
through the cabinet. Then apply bondo and push down hard with the putty
knife to force the bondo into the holes. This will make the bondo stick
to the surface so you can sand it down flush and it can take some abuse
without delaminating from the cabinet.
John
--
John I
http://www.floridapinballforum.com
Joe Grenuk
Aug 9, 2012, 6:20:04 PM8/9/12
to
is....presentable or nice.
Spot putty over the sanded bondo seems to handle all those hairline
cracks for me.
EM PINMAN
Aug 9, 2012, 7:22:18 PM8/9/12
to
On Thursday, August 9, 2012 4:20:04 PM UTC-6, Joe Grenuk wrote:
> On Aug 9, 5:56 pm, mikeincali <wizb...@gmail.com> wrote: > On Aug 9, 2:38 pm, Joe Grenuk <jgre...@aol.com> wrote: > > > > > > > I got a bit nervous when I read "delaminated" wood, which usually > > means it got wet. The pics appear to show a solid cabinet that has > > been chunked. I'm not so sure I agree with Mike on this one. Cutting > > in a piece at that spot is going to cause another issue on the inside > > of the cabinet and on the corner where is is going to have to be glued > > to the front panel. If it were my game, I would put down probably > > three layers of bondo and sand. I know it cures and doesn't dry, but, > > that's how I would do it. > > > And I guess while I am at it, I would disagree with Mike on the > > partial stencil suggestion. I think that would be OK if you are aiming > > for a "presentable" outcome, but if you are looking for better than > > that, the whole cab is going to need to get redone. even if you were > > able to execute a perfect paint match for the colors and splatter, > > you'd still have a very smooth base next to the old wood which is > > going to be anywhwere from a little to a lot rougher, so, the patch > > will stick out like Todd Nathan in a group of really nice people. > > > There are a dozen ways to skin this cat, mine is just how I'd go at > > it. Good luck. > > > Joe > > Joe, > You might be right on the repairs, but I have used bondo and wood fill > on cabinets, and always seem to get those hairline cracks when you > finish sanding, and they will really show when you paint. I have used > wood pieces to fill in the past and it seems to be more solid and > easier to work with. As for the stencils, of course the better way to > do it would be to stencil entire cabinet. I was thinking mostly of the > time time involved. You're turning a minor refurbish into a major > overhaul. No need to replace an engine if it just needs a head gasket. > I guess I'm used to presentable and you guys go for all out collector > quality. I agree...it all depends on what the OP's final objective is....presentable or nice. Spot putty over the sanded bondo seems to handle all those hairline cracks for me.
I agree with you Joe.
> On Aug 9, 5:56 pm, mikeincali <wizb...@gmail.com> wrote: > On Aug 9, 2:38 pm, Joe Grenuk <jgre...@aol.com> wrote: > > > > > > > I got a bit nervous when I read "delaminated" wood, which usually > > means it got wet. The pics appear to show a solid cabinet that has > > been chunked. I'm not so sure I agree with Mike on this one. Cutting > > in a piece at that spot is going to cause another issue on the inside > > of the cabinet and on the corner where is is going to have to be glued > > to the front panel. If it were my game, I would put down probably > > three layers of bondo and sand. I know it cures and doesn't dry, but, > > that's how I would do it. > > > And I guess while I am at it, I would disagree with Mike on the > > partial stencil suggestion. I think that would be OK if you are aiming > > for a "presentable" outcome, but if you are looking for better than > > that, the whole cab is going to need to get redone. even if you were > > able to execute a perfect paint match for the colors and splatter, > > you'd still have a very smooth base next to the old wood which is > > going to be anywhwere from a little to a lot rougher, so, the patch > > will stick out like Todd Nathan in a group of really nice people. > > > There are a dozen ways to skin this cat, mine is just how I'd go at > > it. Good luck. > > > Joe > > Joe, > You might be right on the repairs, but I have used bondo and wood fill > on cabinets, and always seem to get those hairline cracks when you > finish sanding, and they will really show when you paint. I have used > wood pieces to fill in the past and it seems to be more solid and > easier to work with. As for the stencils, of course the better way to > do it would be to stencil entire cabinet. I was thinking mostly of the > time time involved. You're turning a minor refurbish into a major > overhaul. No need to replace an engine if it just needs a head gasket. > I guess I'm used to presentable and you guys go for all out collector > quality. I agree...it all depends on what the OP's final objective is....presentable or nice. Spot putty over the sanded bondo seems to handle all those hairline cracks for me.
Bondo w/spot putty should do the trick.
As far as stencils, you could buy the stencil kit and just re-do the bad side or the whole cabinet.
It all really depends on you, who's doing the work, and how much experience they have, and what quality you want.
Personally I'm not good at paint n patch so I would pay my painter with 40 years experience do it for me.
Ken
pokepin
Aug 9, 2012, 7:29:29 PM8/9/12
to
Any sources for a stencil kit for Card Whiz?
pokepin
Aug 9, 2012, 7:44:11 PM8/9/12
to
Although I'd like to do a whole cabinet repaint, I would only trust my
art skills to a spot restoration. At this point, I am leaning toward a
presentable job and do the drill holes/bondo/sand approach.
John I
Aug 9, 2012, 9:37:16 PM8/9/12
to
John I;1981939 Wrote:
> I would set up a 3/8" drill bit with a depth limit and drill a BUNCH of
> holes in the entire affected area making sure not to go all the way
> through the cabinet. Then apply bondo and push down hard with the putty
> knife to force the bondo into the holes. This will make the bondo stick
> to the surface so you can sand it down flush and it can take some abuse
> without delaminating from the cabinet.
>
>
> John
as the bondo can get down in the hole and grab a hold!
Frank Furhter
Aug 9, 2012, 10:43:49 PM8/9/12
to
messed up. Nobody will care or notice. Save $$$, time and of course
you can fix it later or sell it as a project increased in price as 'a
feature and opportunity' like so many other schlubs selling pins these
days. Play along the market, do as little as possible and charge as
much bend over pain as possible.
EM PINMAN
Aug 9, 2012, 11:07:15 PM8/9/12
to fr...@furhter.com
On Thursday, August 9, 2012 8:43:49 PM UTC-6, Frank Furhter wrote:
> pokepin wrote: > I just got a Gottlieb Card Whiz game and it's got some cabinet issues. > The main problem is the left front corner which has delaminated wood. > See pics below: > > Damaged left side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_far.jpg > Damaged left side (closer): > http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_close.jpg > OK right side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/right_side.jpg > > Any advice as to how best repair this? I'm thinking wood filler (2-part > epoxy-type), followed by 150 and 600 sandpapering, but that's just from > checking other posts. > > Also any tips on repainting this so it looks decent? The other side of > the cabinet looks to be a mirror image. Any way to photograph it, > mirror, and somehow print/laminate it to the damaged area? > > Put that side to the wall or next to another machine with its right side messed up. Nobody will care or notice. Save $$$, time and of course you can fix it later or sell it as a project increased in price as 'a feature and opportunity' like so many other schlubs selling pins these days. Play along the market, do as little as possible and charge as much bend over pain as possible.
Hi Todd Nathan, speaking of pain (FF)......
> pokepin wrote: > I just got a Gottlieb Card Whiz game and it's got some cabinet issues. > The main problem is the left front corner which has delaminated wood. > See pics below: > > Damaged left side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_far.jpg > Damaged left side (closer): > http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_close.jpg > OK right side: http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/right_side.jpg > > Any advice as to how best repair this? I'm thinking wood filler (2-part > epoxy-type), followed by 150 and 600 sandpapering, but that's just from > checking other posts. > > Also any tips on repainting this so it looks decent? The other side of > the cabinet looks to be a mirror image. Any way to photograph it, > mirror, and somehow print/laminate it to the damaged area? > > Put that side to the wall or next to another machine with its right side messed up. Nobody will care or notice. Save $$$, time and of course you can fix it later or sell it as a project increased in price as 'a feature and opportunity' like so many other schlubs selling pins these days. Play along the market, do as little as possible and charge as much bend over pain as possible.
It pains me to not hear from you about the pin you are going to sell me....lots of requests from myself and Pinball Dave,
Come on Todd, sell us a pin!
richiep
Aug 10, 2012, 8:14:50 AM8/10/12
to
I agree with the guys about using bondo for the repair. It's a broad
area but it doesn't look to deep, so you should be ok.
As far as recreating the graphics, you don't need any artistic talent.
Whether you're going to do a full repaint or just going to do the patch
area, you can create your own stencils very easily.
I've done several repaints this way. Get a roll of clear contact
papr/adhesive vinyl. Stick it onto the cabinet and trace the design
onto the contact paper with a sharpie.
Then get some posterboard. Take the contact paper with the design now
transferred to it and stick it onto the posterboard. Repeat this
process for each stencil/color you're going to need. The left side is
just a mirror image of the right side.
Then use a real sharp razor knife and cut out the areas of the stencil
to be painted. Lay it on the cabinet and spray away.
I've done this a lot with excellent results. Let me know if you have
any questions.
--
richiep
richiep
Aug 10, 2012, 8:20:12 AM8/10/12
to
Hey pokepin..is that the Card Whiz from CL in NNJ? Just curious, what
$$ were you able to buy it for?
SF
Aug 10, 2012, 10:28:51 AM8/10/12
to
On Aug 9, 1:42 pm, pokepin <poke...@familyport.com> wrote:
the bad area to make it all level, then use some good wood glue and
glue in a new piece of wood.
Then...... use a bit of filler or fine sawdust mixed with glue to fill
in any small area you missed when you put in your filler piece. sand a
few time and it will be much stronger.
On the painting, I would just touch up. Repainting a cabinet is a huge
project, and even though it is rewarding takes alot of time. I have
done 5 0r 6 total cabinet repaints and Im usually pretty burnt out by
the time it's completed.
Frank Furhter
Aug 10, 2012, 10:54:59 AM8/10/12
to
not shop ready to do full cab work redos.
pokepin
Aug 10, 2012, 12:25:42 PM8/10/12
to
Frank: I thought of keeping the damaged side against a wall. That is in
fact what the guy I bought it from had done. In my setup, all of the
games are lined against a right corner alcove so all of the left sides
are showing. Plus as the only EM, the narrower cabinet would even show
more of the left side.
richiep: Thanks for the detail info about the stencil making.
pokepin
Aug 10, 2012, 1:16:18 PM8/10/12
to
SF;1982135 Wrote:
> On Aug 9, 1:42*pm, pokepin <poke... (AT) familyport (DOT) com> wrote:
> > I just got a Gottlieb Card Whiz game and it's got some cabinet
> issues.
> > The main problem is the left front corner which has delaminated wood.
> > See pics below:
> >
> > Damaged left side:http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_far.jpg
> > Damaged left side
> (closer):http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_close.jpg
> > OK right side:http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/right_side.jpg
> >
> > Any advice as to how best repair this? I'm thinking wood filler
> (2-part
> > epoxy-type), followed by 150 and 600 sandpapering, but that's just
> from
> > checking other posts.
> >
> > Also any tips on repainting this so it looks decent? The other side
> of
> > the cabinet looks to be a mirror image. Any way to photograph it,
> > mirror, and somehow print/laminate it to the damaged area?
> >
> > --
> > pokepin
> > This USENET post sent from *http://rgparchive.com
> > I just got a Gottlieb Card Whiz game and it's got some cabinet
> issues.
> > The main problem is the left front corner which has delaminated wood.
> > See pics below:
> >
> > Damaged left side:http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_far.jpg
> > Damaged left side
> (closer):http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/left_close.jpg
> > OK right side:http://www.familyport.com/cardwhiz/right_side.jpg
> >
> > Any advice as to how best repair this? I'm thinking wood filler
> (2-part
> > epoxy-type), followed by 150 and 600 sandpapering, but that's just
> from
> > checking other posts.
> >
> > Also any tips on repainting this so it looks decent? The other side
> of
> > the cabinet looks to be a mirror image. Any way to photograph it,
> > mirror, and somehow print/laminate it to the damaged area?
> >
> > --
> > pokepin
>
> This is what I think you should do. Get a router, and route out all
> the bad area to make it all level, then use some good wood glue and
> glue in a new piece of wood.
> Then...... use a bit of filler or fine sawdust mixed with glue to fill
> in any small area you missed when you put in your filler piece. sand a
> few time and it will be much stronger.
>
> On the painting, I would just touch up. Repainting a cabinet is a huge
> project, and even though it is rewarding takes alot of time. I have
> done 5 0r 6 total cabinet repaints and Im usually pretty burnt out by
> the time it's completed.
SF, thanks for the replacement wood idea. Any idea where to get a piece
> This is what I think you should do. Get a router, and route out all
> the bad area to make it all level, then use some good wood glue and
> glue in a new piece of wood.
> Then...... use a bit of filler or fine sawdust mixed with glue to fill
> in any small area you missed when you put in your filler piece. sand a
> few time and it will be much stronger.
>
> On the painting, I would just touch up. Repainting a cabinet is a huge
> project, and even though it is rewarding takes alot of time. I have
> done 5 0r 6 total cabinet repaints and Im usually pretty burnt out by
> the time it's completed.
of wood that thin to insert into the damaged area? Some kind of veneer?
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