Anyone using and Alltek lamp driver in F2K with LED's?

[LoveF2K]

I installed per instructions and the switched lamps are stobing and the speech board is confused. Switches for the BLAST OFF roll overs not responding nor the 2 white standup targets next to the pop bumpers. Strange!
I emails Alltek yesterday and hav'nt heard back

[nwojedi]

I have one, but not using it in a F2K. But it works fine. Did you swap
out 2 connectors by accident?


--
nwojedi

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[zeiram]

I have one in mine and everything works just fine except for ghosting in
the blue LED and the shoot again. Just need to exchange those with the
non ghosting variety but I am fine with the glow kind of...


--
zeiram

[LoveF2K]

Did you use the jumper wire to the feature lamp bus and cut wires 9 and 10 on J4 as they directed? This is supposed to eliminate the ghosting/strobing effect.

I have standard led's in a Xenon and ebd with the Alltek driver and you would never know they are Led's except for the brightness.

[LoveF2K]

Neo, what connectors are you referring to? AFAIK the connectors or correct.

[moro...@gmail.com]

I have one running my F2K. You need to cut the jumpers or you will blow a trace on the back of the board. Just check the back to make sure you did not blow a trace.

[LoveF2K]

I did cut the 2 wires as per the instructions prior to running the game as I saw earlier posts about this. So there shouldn't be any burnt traces. I double checked the lamp driver in another game and it's working ok.

[moro...@gmail.com]

I would just double / triple check you cut the right wires. Depending on which way you count, you might have cut the wrong ones.

P.

[LoveF2K]

I'm pretty sure I did. The lamp driver board shows where pin 1 starts and I counted from there. Pin 8 is the key and I cut the 2 wire after that. I'm going to check the speech board for damage. If it looks ok, I'm going to install the original lamp driver just to see if the game acts normal regardless of the strobing.

[seymour.shabow]

LoveF2K wrote:
>
> I'm pretty sure I did. The lamp driver board shows where pin 1 starts and I counted from there. Pin 8 is the key and I cut the 2 wire after that. I'm going to check the speech board for damage. If it looks ok, I'm going to install the original lamp driver just to see if the game acts normal regardless of the strobing.

You're no doubt seen the recent post where adding a resistor to each
lamp eliminates the strobing? (Although it'd be more work I'd add the
resistor on the lamp driver board instead of on the playfield -
especially on F2k where every single lamp driver is used!)

I think it was 470 ohm to each socket. If I liked LEDs in pins I'd
probably remember better.

[LoveF2K]

I'm pulling out what little hair I have left with a F2K pf swap. Here's the run down. Years ago I stripped a F2K pf and stored the wire harness. I never saw the game run. I knew I would use it someday when the CPR F2K's came out. I decided to use LED's in the switched and GI lamps so I had my Alltek driver ready. All the switches except the DT switches are new, all diodes, caps, and lamp sockets new. I made sure I always resoldered everything back where it was using another populated pf as a reference if needed. So the first time I fired up the pf I put it in a known working game that I temporarilly removed the pf from. I unknowingly has a wire off on J1 of the rectifier board which crossed the path of the switched lamps and the GI circuits. F1 immediatle blew. Once I found that mitake I turned the game on again and this was when I burnt R24 on the solenoid driver. I found that I reversed the coil wires for the outhole kicker.
Fixed that problem but the game is still a mess. I checked the alltek lamp driver in another game in fear that I blew it up but it's working fine. Back in the F2K I followed allteks directions for the driver and the LEDs are flickering, some not even following the attract mode sequence. WHile I was testing other functions I found all the switches are out on the same line. Another issue is when starting a game the speech board is confused, instead of Prepare for mission, it says 2 4 3. The regular game sounds are normal, just speech is out of wack. I thought maybe that the LEds were causing too many problems so I put the standard 47's back in the switches lamps. It didn't help all that much. I know the problem lies in the pf. When I put the regular pf back in the game it works fine. I'm ready to put the new pf back on the table and take good hard look at the switch row that isn't working. It inclused all the roll over lanes that spell Blast Off and the 2 white targets up by the pop bumpers. Can this cause the speech issue and the weird switched lamp. Even with the regular lamps back in, some lamps are coming on at the same time, like all the blue inserts are on at the same time during a game. Just alot of crazy things going on here. Where do I start?

[LoveF2K]

Testing diodes? What's the proper way to test the 1N4004? I clipped one end of each diode in the column of switches that are not responding. I remember some posts saying that they should be around 60 Millivolts. I'm getting all different readings and fluctuating results when measuring dc voltage. If measuring resistance I'm getting around 5 Mega ohms one way and infinte the other way. What's the lowest voltage reading to expect before you know the diode is no good?
Will the voltage dip into the negative as well?

[seymour.shabow]

LoveF2K wrote:
>
> Testing diodes? What's the proper way to test the 1N4004? I clipped one end of each diode in the column of switches that are not responding. I remember some posts saying that they should be around 60 Millivolts. I'm getting all different readings and fluctuating results when measuring dc voltage. If measuring resistance I'm getting around 5 Mega ohms one way and infinte the other way. What's the lowest voltage reading to expect before you know the diode is no good?
> Will the voltage dip into the negative as well?

Use the diode test on the meter, infinite one way, .4-.6 the other way.