System 11- Power to flippers at game over- need help with Logic Probe
Shredso
it up, replaced the battery holder and 5 or 6 of the immediate IC's.
Replacing those fixed all of the games problems except the game still
has power to the flippers before the game starts and after game over.
I found somewhere on here that I should check U55 and U56. I bought
the chips and sockets from GPE and I also bought a logic probe. I
have it hooked up, what next? If it is locked on I'm assuming I would
hear a high pitch constantly rather than a low pitch when in attract
mode and a high when the game is on? Am I on the right track here?
I'm a little lost in the schematic, how do I know which pin to test?
Eric Hill
Have you tested the transistor that drives the flipper relay? Q67
(2N4401) according to the schematic.
Borygard
1- U50 pin 11 should start high (red light the logic probe on) and stay
that way until a game starts or the game is put into self test. When the
game is in self test or a game starts U50 pin 11 will go low (green light on
the logic probe on). If this happens we know that all is well to U50, go to
the next step...
2- U50 pin 13 should be low when U50 pin 11 is high and should go high when
U50-11 is low. If this isn't happening you either have a blanking issue,
U56 is influencing this output, or U50 is bad. If U50 pin 13 is going low
when U50 pin 11 is high, go to the next step...
3- U56 pin 6 should be high when U50 pin 11 is high and should go low when
U50-11 is low. If the above is fine but this isn't happening, U56 is likely
bad.
4- U50 pin 10 will be low when U50 pin 11 is high. When the flipper should
work (game start/self test) U50-11 will float (not high or low) as will the
base (center leg) of Q67. If all this and the above is working check the
emitter (bottom leg) of Q67 and the collector (top leg) of Q67. Both of
these legs will be low when the flippers should be enabled. When the
flippers should be disabled, the collector will be high.
5- If all the above is doing what it should, then the only thing left is
the flipper enable relay itself, K1. It will likely be physically stuck.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
www.LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587
"Shredso" <shr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Cliffy
Before you do all that have you made sure Bonus Flips is turned off in
the setup?
--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
Home of the world's finest pinball protectors
http://www.passionforpinball.com
Steven
> the setup?
System11 has bonus flips?!
I'd go with Robs plan: the flipper-enable-relais somehow stays 'on',
so either the relais itself or the signals to it (which he both
describes)
Cliffy
>> Before you do all that have you made sure Bonus Flips is turned off in
>> the setup?
>
> System11 has bonus flips?!
> so either the relay itself or the signals to it (which he both
> describes)
Well, I couldn't remember if system 11's had bonus flips or not but
thought it would be an easy thing to check :) I just looked through my
Dr Dude adjustments and nope, no bonus flips.
Shredso
>
> news:3ee6f350-94ea-436d...@y4g2000yqy.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I have a battery damaged System 11B from a Space Station. I cleaned
> > it up, replaced the battery holder and 5 or 6 of the immediate IC's.
> > Replacing those fixed all of the games problems except the game still
> > has power to the flippers before the game starts and after game over.
> > I found somewhere on here that I should check U55 and U56. I bought
> > the chips and sockets from GPE and I also bought a logic probe. I
> > have it hooked up, what next? If it is locked on I'm assuming I would
> > hear a high pitch constantly rather than a low pitch when in attract
> > mode and a high when the game is on? Am I on the right track here?
> > I'm a little lost in the schematic, how do I know which pin to test?
Thanks for the detailed post Rob. First off, how the heck do you know
this? If I was better at reading a schematic would I have been able
to figure this out, or is this a seen it a bunch of times thing?
Anyway, after looking at U50, it appears to have some corrosion, so
probably should be replaced regardless. In attract mode pin 11 has
nothing, no beep at all. When the game starts, it goes to low.
DM7204N is the chip in there, looks like I ordered the wrong chip.
7406 is the chip I ordered. I also have 74F08 and a 7400 on hand, I
don't suppose any of these are acceptable replacements? Looks like
another week or so before I can call this project complete...
Thanks.
Ed.
Shredso
Meant to write 7402 is the chip at U50. Apparently I am unable to
read upside down after 2 Coronas.
Borygard
U50 will definitely need to be a 7402, the 7408 and 7400 definitely won't
work.
Most everything in my post is discernable from the schematics, there's a lot
of info in them suckers. Where specific experience comes into play on this
particular board is very often U50, U55 and U56 are all bad. I'm not sure
what exactly takes them all out, but it's surely related to the special
solenoid section of the board since there's always major issues there too
when all those ICs are bad.
If U50 has seen damage from battery leakage, you'll definitely want to
closely inspect the traces under it when you've removed it and check for
continuity from all legs of U50 to their corresponding places on the board.
From your description it sounds as though U10 could be bad as well. You can
test for sure when you have U50 out, power the board up on the bench or with
everything disconnected from the board in the game except J17 and J14, and
see what U50 pin 11 does. If it's still not high or low in attract mode,
then check continuity from U50-11 to U10-19. If continuity is present then
U10 is unfortunately likely bad.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
www.LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587
"Shredso" <shr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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barakandl
Broken trace on my father's Big Guns caused flippers to be enabled in
game over mode. I wish i remember exactly where it way but i it was
related to a lifted trace on a poor solder job done previously.