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Having a problem with my new FG, it was working 100% before this issue.
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Mamushka
May 21, 2013, 9:53:20 PM5/21/13
to
Started a game tonight and noticed that some of the drop targets were
down (should all be up). Started diagnosing the problem and determined
that the switches were not registering (game thinks they are up at all
times). The switch matrix has 4 rows (Q1-Q4 “Drives”) and 16 columns.
All the drop targets are on row Q3.
I broke out the meter and determined that all of the drives were
reading 3.2VDC except Q3 that was reading 2.2VDC (the other mechanical
switches on this row work even though they are all at 2.2VDC). When I
unplugged the drop target opto board the voltage jumped back to 3.2
VDC. It appears that something on the board is pulling down the
voltage causing the optos not to work. Schematic of the board can be
seen here:
http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/SHREK_SGM/SHREK_SEC5_CHP4_PT5_GSM.pdf
Go to page 4 of 10 (this is for Shrek, same board as FG). Any idea
what is the problem here?
down (should all be up). Started diagnosing the problem and determined
that the switches were not registering (game thinks they are up at all
times). The switch matrix has 4 rows (Q1-Q4 “Drives”) and 16 columns.
All the drop targets are on row Q3.
I broke out the meter and determined that all of the drives were
reading 3.2VDC except Q3 that was reading 2.2VDC (the other mechanical
switches on this row work even though they are all at 2.2VDC). When I
unplugged the drop target opto board the voltage jumped back to 3.2
VDC. It appears that something on the board is pulling down the
voltage causing the optos not to work. Schematic of the board can be
seen here:
http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/SHREK_SGM/SHREK_SEC5_CHP4_PT5_GSM.pdf
Go to page 4 of 10 (this is for Shrek, same board as FG). Any idea
what is the problem here?
TheKorn
May 22, 2013, 1:51:38 PM5/22/13
to
Mamushka <jvca...@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:7950b449-febd-4784...@s18g2000yqg.googlegroups.com:
Unplug both receiver 1 (J2) and receiver 2 (J4), see if problem changes. If it
doesn't, then you have a board problem. If it does, then you have an opto
problem.
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the web or
on DVD?
http://www.webwidevideo.com/
news:7950b449-febd-4784...@s18g2000yqg.googlegroups.com:
doesn't, then you have a board problem. If it does, then you have an opto
problem.
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the web or
on DVD?
http://www.webwidevideo.com/
shlockdoc
May 22, 2013, 2:12:26 PM5/22/13
to
On May 22, 1:51 pm, TheKorn <TheK...@TheKorn.Net> wrote:
Lurking and learning - Thanks Korn :-)
phishrace
May 23, 2013, 1:46:44 AM5/23/13
to
or a J4 connector. Just a J1 connector.
Because the board is really 4 different circuits, I'd think I'd look
real close for wiring or connector issues. Not a single component on
there that could go bad and kill all 4 opto pairs. I've had individual
pairs go out in the past, but never all 4.
-phish
Gott Lieb?
May 23, 2013, 6:02:36 AM5/23/13
to
Lighten up! I can see what the Korn was referring to. You could have
nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
FWIW, a cracked header pin (5v) or bad plug connector could kill all
of the optos on that board.
Jim
nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
FWIW, a cracked header pin (5v) or bad plug connector could kill all
of the optos on that board.
Jim
Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 12:00:18 PM5/23/13
to
On May 22, 1:51 pm, TheKorn <TheK...@TheKorn.Net> wrote:
520-5252-04
I'm getting power to it when I probe the board, I can even see a
voltage change on pins 5-8 when I drop the targets. Seems like the
change in voltage is too low for the CPU to see it? I also pulled the
board and checked the diodes, they were fine and Q1-Q4. Q1 and Q2
seemed normal ~0.64 on on leg and ~0.98 on the other while Q3 and R4
read ~0.64 on the one leg and nothing on the other. Could have been
that I just was not getting good contact due to them being surface
mount components but I was probing them for a while.
Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 12:06:11 PM5/23/13
to
triggered. Everything else on the game is 100%, I even reseated the
connector on the head. This was also was a sudden change, just turned
the machine one and they had stopped working.
DEWSHO
May 23, 2013, 1:15:48 PM5/23/13
to
I'm so new to this I cannot see what he was refering to. Opto/transmitter board on page 2? Thanks!
Gott Lieb?
May 23, 2013, 1:24:03 PM5/23/13
to
I can't say that yours is the case, but some of the Stern surface
mounted components (mainly resistors) are know to get cracked joints.
I find this highly probably since there is vibration and more than
likely RoHS lead free solder involved. You may want to take the board
out, and look for solder cracks under high magnification.
Jim
mounted components (mainly resistors) are know to get cracked joints.
I find this highly probably since there is vibration and more than
likely RoHS lead free solder involved. You may want to take the board
out, and look for solder cracks under high magnification.
Jim
Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 1:41:40 PM5/23/13
to
board just because of a stupid cracked joint, really dislike surface
mount components :(
Gott Lieb?
May 23, 2013, 1:52:37 PM5/23/13
to
If it is cracked, put a floater out on here. There are a couple of
repair guys who do surface mount repair.
Unfortunately, it is a sign of the times. I'm not a fan of surface
mount nor lead free solder.
Jim
repair guys who do surface mount repair.
Unfortunately, it is a sign of the times. I'm not a fan of surface
mount nor lead free solder.
Jim
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 2:06:00 PM5/23/13
to
"Gott Lieb?" <r...@papinball.com> wrote in news:ca235e3d-c591-47eb-a9a0-9fb3cb55ddd9
@a8g2000yqp.googlegroups.com:
> Lighten up! I can see what the Korn was referring to. You could have
> nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
Heh, whoops.
> FWIW, a cracked header pin (5v) or bad plug connector could kill all
> of the optos on that board.
Good point. Now that I'm looking at the correct schematic, since everything is
discrete it'd be hard for a single failure to take out everything. Though R13
failing might do it as well.
@a8g2000yqp.googlegroups.com:
> Lighten up! I can see what the Korn was referring to. You could have
> nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
> FWIW, a cracked header pin (5v) or bad plug connector could kill all
> of the optos on that board.
discrete it'd be hard for a single failure to take out everything. Though R13
failing might do it as well.
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 2:07:18 PM5/23/13
to
DEWSHO <kenk...@gmail.com> wrote in
news:f31578b6-076e-4157...@googlegroups.com:
> I'm so new to this I cannot see what he was refering to.
> Opto/transmitter board on page 2? Thanks!
Yup, I was referring to the opto transmistter/receiver board on page 2. Which now
that I think about it, only has 1/2 the number of required opto pairs needed to read
a while row of drops. D'oh. (Hey, mistakes happen!)
news:f31578b6-076e-4157...@googlegroups.com:
> I'm so new to this I cannot see what he was refering to.
> Opto/transmitter board on page 2? Thanks!
that I think about it, only has 1/2 the number of required opto pairs needed to read
a while row of drops. D'oh. (Hey, mistakes happen!)
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 2:23:14 PM5/23/13
to
Mamushka <jvca...@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:415b6f5c-5e6e-401f...@g9g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:
> It's the (4) opto board with just the (1) connector on it; Part#
> 520-5252-04
Yeah, whoops. Brain fart. :)
> I'm getting power to it when I probe the board, I can even see a
> voltage change on pins 5-8 when I drop the targets. Seems like the
> change in voltage is too low for the CPU to see it? I also pulled the
> board and checked the diodes, they were fine and Q1-Q4. Q1 and Q2
> seemed normal ~0.64 on on leg and ~0.98 on the other while Q3 and R4
> read ~0.64 on the one leg and nothing on the other. Could have been
> that I just was not getting good contact due to them being surface
> mount components but I was probing them for a while.
Well I guess the question is... HOW are you probing it?
Eh, screw that, here's how to probe it correctly. :D
First, tie pin 9 to +5. Then block/unblock the optos. You should get relatively
little change on pins 5-8 when you do this.
Next, tie pin 9 to ground. Again block/unblock the optos. This time you should
see BIG changes on pins 5-8 when you do this. (Go from roughly zero to floating
and back again.)
An even better way is to grab a big resistor (100K+, any wattage will work), hook
one end to +5, and take your readings on the other end. That way it'll be
absolutely clear when the pin is grounded vs not grounded. Like so:
http://www.thekorn.net/opto_test.png
news:415b6f5c-5e6e-401f...@g9g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:
> It's the (4) opto board with just the (1) connector on it; Part#
> 520-5252-04
> I'm getting power to it when I probe the board, I can even see a
> voltage change on pins 5-8 when I drop the targets. Seems like the
> change in voltage is too low for the CPU to see it? I also pulled the
> board and checked the diodes, they were fine and Q1-Q4. Q1 and Q2
> seemed normal ~0.64 on on leg and ~0.98 on the other while Q3 and R4
> read ~0.64 on the one leg and nothing on the other. Could have been
> that I just was not getting good contact due to them being surface
> mount components but I was probing them for a while.
Eh, screw that, here's how to probe it correctly. :D
First, tie pin 9 to +5. Then block/unblock the optos. You should get relatively
little change on pins 5-8 when you do this.
Next, tie pin 9 to ground. Again block/unblock the optos. This time you should
see BIG changes on pins 5-8 when you do this. (Go from roughly zero to floating
and back again.)
An even better way is to grab a big resistor (100K+, any wattage will work), hook
one end to +5, and take your readings on the other end. That way it'll be
absolutely clear when the pin is grounded vs not grounded. Like so:
http://www.thekorn.net/opto_test.png
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 2:26:18 PM5/23/13
to
TheKorn <The...@TheKorn.Net> wrote in
news:XnsA1C9882AC...@69.16.185.252:
> Well I guess the question is... HOW are you probing it?
>
> Eh, screw that, here's how to probe it correctly. :D
>
> First, tie pin 9 to +5. Then block/unblock the optos. You should get
> relatively little change on pins 5-8 when you do this.
>
> Next, tie pin 9 to ground. Again block/unblock the optos. This time
> you should see BIG changes on pins 5-8 when you do this. (Go from
> roughly zero to floating and back again.)
>
> An even better way is to grab a big resistor (100K+, any wattage will
> work), hook one end to +5, and take your readings on the other end.
> That way it'll be absolutely clear when the pin is grounded vs not
> grounded. Like so: http://www.thekorn.net/opto_test.png
This all assumes you're probing it on a bench, of course. (i.e. you need to hook
up +5 and ground on J1 as well!) Would be a serious PITA to try and do this while
it's in the game!
news:XnsA1C9882AC...@69.16.185.252:
> Well I guess the question is... HOW are you probing it?
>
> Eh, screw that, here's how to probe it correctly. :D
>
> First, tie pin 9 to +5. Then block/unblock the optos. You should get
> relatively little change on pins 5-8 when you do this.
>
> Next, tie pin 9 to ground. Again block/unblock the optos. This time
> you should see BIG changes on pins 5-8 when you do this. (Go from
> roughly zero to floating and back again.)
>
> An even better way is to grab a big resistor (100K+, any wattage will
> work), hook one end to +5, and take your readings on the other end.
> That way it'll be absolutely clear when the pin is grounded vs not
> grounded. Like so: http://www.thekorn.net/opto_test.png
up +5 and ground on J1 as well!) Would be a serious PITA to try and do this while
it's in the game!
phishrace
May 23, 2013, 2:38:03 PM5/23/13
to
On May 23, 3:02 am, "Gott Lieb?" <r...@papinball.com> wrote:
> Lighten up! I can see what the Korn was referring to. You could have
> nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> Lighten up! I can see what the Korn was referring to. You could have
> nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
big deal. Glad I could get things pointed in the right direction. I
just didn't care for the reply to Korn's post. The poster wasn't
lurking or learning. Just sucking up.
Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
connector issue. I've had a lot of games with those boards (WPT has 4)
and never had one completely fail. The tiny optos are prone to dirt
and dust, but a blast of compressed air (not Q-tips) usually fixes
that right up.
-phish
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 2:47:18 PM5/23/13
to
phishrace <phis...@hotmail.com> wrote in news:7887e7d2-3458-4f8a-bb9b-
1f608f...@yb1g2000pbc.googlegroups.com:
> I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> big deal.
Yeah, we all have days when we're off our game (no pun intended). That swas one of
'em. It happens.
> Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> connector issue.
You're *probably* right, but it doesn't take much to exercise that board fully on
the bench. So I think it's worth taking ten minutes to definitively eliminate the
board as the source of the problem.
1f608f...@yb1g2000pbc.googlegroups.com:
> I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> big deal.
'em. It happens.
> Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> connector issue.
the bench. So I think it's worth taking ten minutes to definitively eliminate the
board as the source of the problem.
phishrace
May 23, 2013, 2:55:02 PM5/23/13
to
On May 23, 11:47 am, TheKorn <TheK...@TheKorn.Net> wrote:
> phishrace <phishr...@hotmail.com> wrote in news:7887e7d2-3458-4f8a-bb9b-
> 1f608f8d1...@yb1g2000pbc.googlegroups.com:
(tasteful sucking up ^^^^ d;^)
-phish
> phishrace <phishr...@hotmail.com> wrote in news:7887e7d2-3458-4f8a-bb9b-
> 1f608f8d1...@yb1g2000pbc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> > Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> > big deal.
>
> Yeah, we all have days when we're off our game (no pun intended). That swas one of
> 'em. It happens.
>
> > Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> > connector issue.
>
> You're *probably* right, but it doesn't take much to exercise that board fully on
> the bench. So I think it's worth taking ten minutes to definitively eliminate the
> board as the source of the problem.
Agree 100%. Thanks for all that you do here. It is appreciated.
> > I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> > Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> > big deal.
>
> Yeah, we all have days when we're off our game (no pun intended). That swas one of
> 'em. It happens.
>
> > Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> > connector issue.
>
> You're *probably* right, but it doesn't take much to exercise that board fully on
> the bench. So I think it's worth taking ten minutes to definitively eliminate the
> board as the source of the problem.
(tasteful sucking up ^^^^ d;^)
-phish
Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 4:18:27 PM5/23/13
to
On May 23, 2:23 pm, TheKorn <TheK...@TheKorn.Net> wrote:
Thanks,
I will try to test this tonight time permitting but it looks like I
will be out of pocket for about ten days. I will resurrect this post
when I get back. I appreciate the information.
Mamushka
I will try to test this tonight time permitting but it looks like I
will be out of pocket for about ten days. I will resurrect this post
when I get back. I appreciate the information.
Mamushka
sake mera
May 23, 2013, 4:27:53 PM5/23/13
to
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Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 6:09:31 PM5/23/13
to
all of the IR emitters are working (appeared to be very bright/strong).
Gott Lieb?
May 23, 2013, 7:21:49 PM5/23/13
to
I didn't get that from the first reply. <shrugs>
I am equally curious as to the resolution. I'm betting on a cracked
solder joint. The unfortunate news is that things are only going to
get worse, once the Stern SAM games start to get long in the tooth.
The White Star board set isn't too bad to work on (pre Atmel surface
mount components on the sound section and DMD controller), but SAM is
packed with SMT components. :/ Plus, all of those Stern coded SMT
chips are going to be worse than the handful of PALs they used.
I really like Stern games, but they unfortunately made their games
disposable in the long run. Makes perfect business sense (sell more
games and don't need them running forever), but the newer Sterns are
everntually going to die off long before the WPC games do. And no,
I'm far from a WMS / BLY fanboy.
Jim
I am equally curious as to the resolution. I'm betting on a cracked
solder joint. The unfortunate news is that things are only going to
get worse, once the Stern SAM games start to get long in the tooth.
The White Star board set isn't too bad to work on (pre Atmel surface
mount components on the sound section and DMD controller), but SAM is
packed with SMT components. :/ Plus, all of those Stern coded SMT
chips are going to be worse than the handful of PALs they used.
I really like Stern games, but they unfortunately made their games
disposable in the long run. Makes perfect business sense (sell more
games and don't need them running forever), but the newer Sterns are
everntually going to die off long before the WPC games do. And no,
I'm far from a WMS / BLY fanboy.
Jim
Mamushka
May 23, 2013, 7:50:04 PM5/23/13
to
On May 23, 2:23 pm, TheKorn <TheK...@TheKorn.Net> wrote:
Without pin 9 tied to 5V I saw about a 0.4V drop for each opto tested.
When pin 9 was grounded I saw about a 0.2V to 0.5V drop for each opto.
For the last method I would see a rise from 0.5V to 1.3V on pin 5 & 6
and 0.5V to 0.8V on pin 7 & 8
When pin 9 was grounded I saw about a 0.2V to 0.5V drop for each opto.
For the last method I would see a rise from 0.5V to 1.3V on pin 5 & 6
and 0.5V to 0.8V on pin 7 & 8
TheKorn
May 23, 2013, 8:41:18 PM5/23/13
to
Mamushka <jvca...@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:e3e6abf5-a51e-45ad...@s6g2000yqs.googlegroups.com:
> Without pin 9 tied to 5V I saw about a 0.4V drop for each opto tested.
> When pin 9 was grounded I saw about a 0.2V to 0.5V drop for each opto.
> For the last method I would see a rise from 0.5V to 1.3V on pin 5 & 6
> and 0.5V to 0.8V on pin 7 & 8
That... doesn't make a lick of sense. When you were probing with the resistor tied
to +5, did you have pin 9 grounded? (You should have, in case I wasn't clear.)
news:e3e6abf5-a51e-45ad...@s6g2000yqs.googlegroups.com:
> Without pin 9 tied to 5V I saw about a 0.4V drop for each opto tested.
> When pin 9 was grounded I saw about a 0.2V to 0.5V drop for each opto.
> For the last method I would see a rise from 0.5V to 1.3V on pin 5 & 6
> and 0.5V to 0.8V on pin 7 & 8
to +5, did you have pin 9 grounded? (You should have, in case I wasn't clear.)
phishrace
May 23, 2013, 8:57:42 PM5/23/13
to
On May 23, 4:21 pm, "Gott Lieb?" <r...@papinball.com> wrote:
> I didn't get that from the first reply. <shrugs>
By saying he learned something, he was incorrectly implying that Korn
> I didn't get that from the first reply. <shrugs>
made the correct diagnosis. I didn't want future searchers to find
incorrect information seemingly confirmed by a second poster. No one
else had replied in about 12 hours. So I corrected it.
Because I felt I had to say something, I also pointed out what I
thought was blatant sucking up. Korn is a good dude, but we shouldn't
be patting him on the back when he's out in left field. Let's let him
fix something first.
-phish
TheKorn
May 24, 2013, 5:06:22 AM5/24/13
to
phishrace <phis...@hotmail.com> wrote in news:fa1e0826-dbd3-4133-9624-964a80471281
@a15g2000pbu.googlegroups.com:
> Because I felt I had to say something, I also pointed out what I
> thought was blatant sucking up. Korn is a good dude, but we shouldn't
> be patting him on the back when he's out in left field. Let's let him
> fix something first.
You're right there; when (not if) I blow something I want people to question me on
it so I can fix it!
I don't believe the original poster intended any harm; I think he thought I had
posted the correct solution.
@a15g2000pbu.googlegroups.com:
> Because I felt I had to say something, I also pointed out what I
> thought was blatant sucking up. Korn is a good dude, but we shouldn't
> be patting him on the back when he's out in left field. Let's let him
> fix something first.
it so I can fix it!
I don't believe the original poster intended any harm; I think he thought I had
posted the correct solution.
shlockdoc
May 24, 2013, 6:58:41 AM5/24/13
to
phishrace;2075797 Wrote:
> On May 23, 3:02*am, "Gott Lieb?" <r... (AT) papinball (DOT) com> wrote:
> > Lighten up! *I can see what the Korn was referring to. *You could
> have
> > nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> > two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
>
> I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> big deal. Glad I could get things pointed in the right direction. I
> just didn't care for the reply to Korn's post. The poster wasn't
> lurking or learning. Just sucking up.
>
> Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> connector issue. I've had a lot of games with those boards (WPT has 4)
> and never had one completely fail. The tiny optos are prone to dirt
> and dust, but a blast of compressed air (not Q-tips) usually fixes
> that right up.
>
> -phish
Hey phish - blow me. What a douche response. You are a dick.
> > nicely stated that he was looking at the opto / transmitter board for
> > two opto switch pairs and not the drop target bank.
>
> I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> big deal. Glad I could get things pointed in the right direction. I
> just didn't care for the reply to Korn's post. The poster wasn't
> lurking or learning. Just sucking up.
>
> Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring or
> connector issue. I've had a lot of games with those boards (WPT has 4)
> and never had one completely fail. The tiny optos are prone to dirt
> and dust, but a blast of compressed air (not Q-tips) usually fixes
> that right up.
>
> -phish
--
shlockdoc
This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com
shlockdoc
May 24, 2013, 7:01:57 AM5/24/13
to
phishrace;2075806 Wrote:
> On May 23, 11:47*am, TheKorn <TheK... (AT) TheKorn (DOT) Net> wrote:
> > phishrace <phishr... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in
> news:7887e7d2-3458-4f8a-bb9b-
> > 1f608f8d1... (AT) yb1g2000pbc.googlegroups (DOT) com:
> >
> > > I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> > > Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> > > big deal.
> >
> > Yeah, we all have days when we're off our game (no pun intended).
> *That swas one of
> > > I knew what Korn was referring to without clicking on the link.
> > > Considering how much help he's given here, his minor mistake was no
> > > big deal.
> >
> > Yeah, we all have days when we're off our game (no pun intended).
> > 'em. *It happens.
> >
> > > Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring
> or
> > > connector issue.
> >
> > You're *probably* right, but it doesn't take much to exercise that
> board fully on
> > the bench. *So I think it's worth taking ten minutes to definitively
> > > Hope we get a resolution to this one. I still think it's a wiring
> or
> > > connector issue.
> >
> > You're *probably* right, but it doesn't take much to exercise that
> board fully on
> eliminate the
> > board as the source of the problem.
>
> Agree 100%. Thanks for all that you do here. It is appreciated.
>
> (tasteful sucking up ^^^^ d;^)
>
> -phish
Might as well swallow while you are at it. Way to encourage learning.
> > board as the source of the problem.
>
> Agree 100%. Thanks for all that you do here. It is appreciated.
>
> (tasteful sucking up ^^^^ d;^)
>
> -phish
What a douche. Want up make sure future pinheads know you are an
asshat.
I was merely saying I'm following the thread and want to learn.
What a pompous prick.
shlockdoc
May 24, 2013, 7:04:45 AM5/24/13
to
shlockdoc;2075547 Wrote:
> On May 22, 1:51*pm, TheKorn <TheK... (AT) TheKorn (DOT) Net> wrote:
> > Mamushka <jvcarl...@yahoo.com> wrote
> innews:7950b449-febd-4784-8bf9-25ee0315209a (AT)
> s18g2000yqg.googlegroups (DOT) com:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Started a game tonight and noticed that some of the drop targets
> were
> > > down (should all be up). Started diagnosing the problem and
> determined
> > > that the switches were not registering (game thinks they are up at
> all
> > > times). The switch matrix has 4 rows (Q1-Q4 “Drives”) and 16
> columns.
> > > All the drop targets are on row Q3.
> >
> > > I broke out the meter and determined that all of the drives were
> > > reading 3.2VDC except Q3 that was reading 2.2VDC (the other
> mechanical
> > > switches on this row work even though they are all at 2.2VDC). When
> I
> > > unplugged the drop target opto board the voltage jumped back to 3.2
> > > VDC. It appears that something on the board is pulling down the
> > > voltage causing the optos not to work. Schematic of the board can
> be
> > > seen here:
> >
> > >http://tinyurl.com/pxpu6km
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Started a game tonight and noticed that some of the drop targets
> were
> > > down (should all be up). Started diagnosing the problem and
> determined
> > > that the switches were not registering (game thinks they are up at
> all
> > > times). The switch matrix has 4 rows (Q1-Q4 “Drives”) and 16
> columns.
> > > All the drop targets are on row Q3.
> >
> > > I broke out the meter and determined that all of the drives were
> > > reading 3.2VDC except Q3 that was reading 2.2VDC (the other
> mechanical
> > > switches on this row work even though they are all at 2.2VDC). When
> I
> > > unplugged the drop target opto board the voltage jumped back to 3.2
> > > VDC. It appears that something on the board is pulling down the
> > > voltage causing the optos not to work. Schematic of the board can
> be
> > > seen here:
> >
> > > .pdf
> >
> > > Go to page 4 of 10 (this is for Shrek, same board as FG). Any idea
> > > what is the problem here?
> >
> > Unplug both receiver 1 (J2) and receiver 2 (J4), see if problem
> changes. *If it
> >
> > > Go to page 4 of 10 (this is for Shrek, same board as FG). Any idea
> > > what is the problem here?
> >
> > Unplug both receiver 1 (J2) and receiver 2 (J4), see if problem
> > doesn't, then you have a board problem. * If it does, then you have an
> opto
> > problem.
> >
> > --
> > Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? *Want to share it on
> Lurking and learning - Thanks Korn :-)
What part of my post said congrats or you are right? I pointed out I'm
following this thread and hoping to learn. Wow phish is the new Cubeta
huh?
Thanks for community and learning. Now your mommy is calling upstairs
phish time to leave the basement.
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