Which fire extinguishers are best for pinball collections?

[pins4fun]

The answer is the ones that are based on Halotron1, an electrically
non-conductive "clean" extinguishing liquid agent that quickly turns
into gas when applied. Halotron 1 is an EPA- and FAA-approved agent,
and has passed testing by Underwriters Laboratories. It's safe for a
variety of fires such and extinguishes them quickly and safely, with
no danger of electric shock and no messy residue to clean up. It also
stores longer than powder-based agents, so your extinguisher will be
there when you need it. Perfect for your car, RV, garage, workshop,
home, or pinball collection. They're in approx. in the $125-$200
range, depending on size and are available from avariety of sources
including but not limited to Amazon:

http://gizmodo.com/5684978/extinguish-fires-without-extinguishing-your-electronics

http://www.quadratec.com/products/98003_011X_PG.htm

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=halguard&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=3119109571&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=794244027324335559&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_63lkpx3jru_b

[Pin Del]

On May 22, 4:44 pm, pins4fun <pins4...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The answer is the ones that are based on Halotron1, an electrically
> non-conductive "clean" extinguishing liquid agent that quickly turns
> into gas when applied. Halotron 1 is an EPA- and FAA-approved agent,
> and has passed testing by Underwriters Laboratories. It's safe for a
> variety of fires such and extinguishes them quickly and safely, with
> no danger of electric shock and no messy residue to clean up. It also
> stores longer than powder-based agents, so your extinguisher will be
> there when you need it. Perfect for your car, RV, garage, workshop,
> home, or pinball collection.  They're in approx. in the $125-$200
> range, depending on size and are available from avariety of sources
> including but not limited to Amazon:
>

> http://gizmodo.com/5684978/extinguish-fires-without-extinguishing-you...
>
> http://www.quadratec.com/products/98003_011X_PG.htm
>
> http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=halguard&tag=googhydr-20&in...

Good info !, Thanks for sharing .

Pin-Del,
cargpb28

[bar...@comcast.net]

Halotron is some amazing stuff. I had looked at these like 20 years ago but I thought they took them off the market because of ozone issue. Guess things have changed. If you ever have the chance watch a live demo for these it is amazing.

I use to be in the auto repair business and I had one at the shop just in case. I wanted a couple for home but never could find them again & that was when I was told they had to stop selling them. Anyone know what changed?

[FredMaine]

Actually Halon is still controversial due to environmental issues;
halotron as near as I can tell from reading the wiki article about it,
is not as bad. Obviously because it becomes a gas it's not going to
hurt the pins, and I had seen it used in computer rooms in the past for
the same reason. But halon was eventually replaced with conventional
fire extinguishers in the computer rooms where I worked.


--
FredMaine
This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com

[dasvis]

Yeah, with a conventional fire extingusher, you might as well let it
burn. That shit will screw up a pin big time. Halon is the way to go.


--
dasvis

[bar...@comcast.net]

On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 4:44:58 PM UTC-4, pins4fun wrote:

Thanks for clearing that one up for me. I knew they use to call those Halon so I wasn't sure if the Halotron was the same stuff or not. Neat how well the Halon ones worked but it is a shame of the environmental issues with it.

[Frank Furhter]

best solution, get comprehensive insurance and get the fuck out of dodge
when the detectors go off. Look at PAPA, with friends, and possibly the
underwriting they got back many more machines than they had out of
sympathy. It can work for you too, just post your sob story here or
otherwise when shit hits your fan.

--
The Frankster, a playfield prankster
Once upon my crank her ballpark shrank.
http://PinWiki.net, Prep-H 4 pinballers.
CARGPB #42 (Its free to join, sign up now!)

[pins4fun]

On May 22, 8:41 pm, Frank Furhter <fr...@furhter.com> wrote:

> barb...@comcast.net wrote:
> > On Wednesday, May 22, 2013 4:44:58 PM UTC-4, pins4fun wrote:
> >> The answer is the ones that are based on Halotron1, an electrically
>
> >> non-conductive "clean" extinguishing liquid agent that quickly turns
>
> >> into gas when applied. Halotron 1 is an EPA- and FAA-approved agent,
>
> >> and has passed testing by Underwriters Laboratories. It's safe for a
>
> >> variety of fires such and extinguishes them quickly and safely, with
>
> >> no danger of electric shock and no messy residue to clean up. It also
>
> >> stores longer than powder-based agents, so your extinguisher will be
>
> >> there when you need it. Perfect for your car, RV, garage, workshop,
>
> >> home, or pinball collection.  They're in approx. in the $125-$200
>
> >> range, depending on size and are available from avariety of sources
>
> >> including but not limited to Amazon:
>

> >>http://gizmodo.com/5684978/extinguish-fires-without-extinguishing-you...
>
> >>http://www.quadratec.com/products/98003_011X_PG.htm
>
> >>http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=halguard&tag=googhydr-20&in...
>

> > Halotron is some amazing stuff.  I had looked at these like 20 years ago but I thought they took them off the market because of ozone issue.  Guess things have changed.  If you ever have the chance watch a live demo for these it is amazing.
>
> > I use to be in the auto repair business and I had one at the shop just in case.  I wanted a couple for home but never could find them again & that was when I was told they had to stop selling them.  Anyone know what changed?
>
> best solution, get comprehensive insurance and get the fuck out of dodge
> when the detectors go off.  Look at PAPA, with friends, and possibly the
> underwriting they got back many more machines than they had out of
> sympathy.  It can work for you too, just post your sob story here or
> otherwise when shit hits your fan.
>
> --
> The Frankster, a playfield prankster
>    Once upon my crank her ballpark shrank.
>      http://PinWiki.net, Prep-H 4 pinballers.
>        CARGPB #42 (Its free to join, sign up now!)

Insurance for pin collections is a subject that has been hashed out
here at length at different times, to no avail. Reason being any
worthwhile pin insurance is shit expensive, even as a rider to a
comprehensive umbrella policy. A sizeable certain percentage of the
declared value hemorrhages as annual insurance premium to the insurer,
quickly eroding equity. If you don't get a declared-value-based
coverage, on the other hand, the pins get lump-summed with furniture
and other crap for covered disasters when you file a claim.

A much more effective/cost-effective way to insure, IMHO, is neither
of the above. It is by fire arms and vigilance, and with some
reliable help from your friendly pooch, the old fashion way.
Meanwhile, a good fire extinguisher for a mere hundred bucks is not a
luxury option here, it's a necessity.

[Frank Furhter]

Do the Claydo thing and unplug them all? I'm guessing that is not
feasible, so is the next best thing a power strip for a shared 4-6 games
and one can hit the bank of games with a foot and off again? I believe
toasters and clogged drier vents cause more deaths and burned down homes
by at least the 27 factor considered than pinball machines have, will or
ever did. If you have 30-50 games in a basement, there are some other
issues one may consider than the fear of burning down a house. :)

[FredMaine]

I power mine off but don't unplug them; but they have new properly wired
cords, and I don't use power strips. Happily I have outlets all along
the wall.

>> ... it is a shame of the environmental issues with it.

There was another reason we didn't like halon in computer rooms. Our
understanding was that it primarily works because it removes the oxygen
from the air. If you are in there, stuck in there, or passed out in
there it doesn't leave you in a good place.


--
FredMaine

[Madsci]

I unplug mine all the time when they aren't being used. I'm just paranoid that way. I'm definitely gonna pick one of these up, though. Thanks for the info!

[pins4fun]

Just to clarify, we're talking about Halotron1 here, not Halon.

When using a Halotron1 based fire extinguisher, respiratory protection
is not (normally) required under conditions of use as a portable fire
extinguisher. In areas where the agent concentration is above
acceptable levels, if you feel you need to, use a self contained
breathing apparatus, as an air purifying respirator will not provide
protection. For hand protection, wear rubber gloves and avoid contact
with skin. For eye protection, chemical goggles or safety glasses with
side shields would be best. Of course avoid contact with eyes. For
body protection, normal work wear is sufficient.

Again, these are just basic common sense precautions as Halotron 1 is

[Frank Furhter]

Yah, and UL is so stalwart and trustworthy for the consumer...
If its UL 'passed' (was it even tested) and EPA and FAA approved, it
must be good for us. Damn, its great to just hope, pray, and toss
around stuff like this meaning its good without actually knowing shit
about the product and the history of UL lobbying congress, not being ISO
certified and exempt from prosecution for false and sham/scam testing
practices. But these are just a long list of things one could easily
find if someone 'just googled it'... Or would ya?

[FredMaine]

Yeah I was recalling the halon stuff in an enclosed computer room,
sorry. If the newer halotron is approved and used in a home or shop
setting I would agree that's an improvement over normal extinguishers.

[Craig Tiano]

On Thu, 23 May 2013 10:27:51 -0400, FredMaine
<fred....@roadrunner.com> wrote:

>
>I power mine off but don't unplug them; but they have new properly wired
>cords, and I don't use power strips. Happily I have outlets all along
>the wall.
>
>>> ... it is a shame of the environmental issues with it.
>
>There was another reason we didn't like halon in computer rooms. Our
>understanding was that it primarily works because it removes the oxygen
>from the air. If you are in there, stuck in there, or passed out in
>there it doesn't leave you in a good place.

We had Halon (not Halotron) in our data centers. I was assigned to
train the staff in the procedure to be followed if the fire alarm went
off. If the "Primary" fire alarm signal went off, you were to leave
the room immediately (we timed the longest exit point at 15 seconds,
walking). The "Primary" alarm was a bell. It would clang for 30
seconds, After 30 seconds, the bell turned off and the "Secondary"
alarm went off. The "Secondary" alarm was an amazingly annoying
warbler. 30 seconds later, the Halon would dump. If you could not
leave the room or there was no fire and either alarm was sounding,
there were "Hold" buttons placed near both doors, and on the middle
row of hardware accessible from both aisles adjacent. Pressing the
"Hold" button for 5 seconds reset the sequence back to the "Primary"
alarm, giving you another 60 seconds either to shut down the alarm
panel, leave the room, or take a lot of deep breaths. If you were in
the room when the halon dumped, you were to "duck and cover" in an
aisle, not at any of the 4 corners of the room. You had to hold your
breath starting when you heard the a/c and power shut off (halon dump
came 1 second later and took only like 6 seconds to dump the entire
container) for at least 20-30 seconds. After the dump was over for
15-30 seconds, you could leave the room, the fire would be out. If you
were unable to leave the room then, and no one opened a door or hit
the "Exhaust" button (located next to the "Hold" buttons) to open the
dampers in the floor and ceiling, you probably were going to pass out
from lack of oxygen. This fire control system was interconnected to
the building's fire control panel. When our panel went into
"Secondary" alarm, the entire building's fire alarms also went off.
When we installed the Halon, we were required to have an OSHA-approved
warning sign on every door, and anyone in the room had to be
continuously accompanied by someone that went through "the training
program". I, for one, was happy when the next data center didn't have
Halon...

Craig

[Frank Furhter]

The notion of data centers should have gone away in the 80s, but instead
the industrialists decided and acted again before losing control of the
flow of spice...

http://tinyurl.com/DuneMeUpScotty

[pins4fun]

On May 23, 11:40 pm, Craig Tiano <cr...@vandenplas.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 23 May 2013 10:27:51 -0400, FredMaine
>

Good information and history; thanks for sharing.

Halon is still legal but because it's a CFC, but its production was
stopped as of 1994 under the auspices of the Clean Air Act. However,
the EPA still recognizes it as being the most effective "clean"
extinguishing agent available regardless of its ozone layer damaging
properties. There's no state or Federal law currently prohibiting the
buying, selling or use of Halon extinguishers that are still in
circulation. Although the production of Halon was stopped in 1994, in
fact the FAA still endorses Halon fire extinguishers for aircraft.

Halon is being gradually phased out as other equally effective and
clean agents are being developed which don't damage the ozone layer
and which are also inexpensive.

[martin]

I have a Halotron as a first line of defense. But I also have to keep a dry powder extinguisher, because my $100 Halotron isn't rated for a combustible materials (class A) fire. What that means id it can run out of gas before even a small fire is out.

A cheap dry powder ABC has awesome stopping power - but everything around where you used it will rust.

[gnrbv]

I have been a firefighter for 33 years and I can shed some light on this:

There is a clean affordable alternative for your home. CO2, and you can go to any fire extinguisher refill or sales shop (look in your yellow pages) and most likely purchase a small CO2 extinguisher for less than $100. A CO2 extinguisher is what we carry on the fire engines to put out class C electrical fire. They leave zero residue as they extinguish the fire by displacing the oxygen. No mess to clean up, will put fire out instantly if used properly, just pull the pin, aim at the base of the fire and squeeze the handle.

A normal class ABC multi-purpose fire extinguisher (dry chemical) is what is sold for most home use, and these are readily available for about $30. These will also extinuish the fire instantly if used properly, but they do leave a mess. For the money this is what most people keep in their home, and the mess will clean up with some effort.

Finally there are several new products such as NeutraFire which act in a similar manner to Halon, but meet todays standards for ozone protection. NeautraFire can be purchased for under $30 and will put your fire out if used properly with no mess or residue. I have never actually used this type of product as we do not carry this on our apparatus, but here is a link to their site:

http://www.neutra-fire.com/

There are other companies producing this type of thing also.

Hope this helps