I only noticed this myself a few years ago when I originally scanned in the
artwork for reproducing the decals. I decided that, for my decals, I didn't
like the "offset" that was apparant with the graphics, so I corrected it
when I had the decals made. I never mentioned this because it just seemed
natural to fix it, plus no one else was selling decals, ...etc etc .
Now that copies of the original factory films are available for sale, .. as
well as my revision 2 sets, I think it's ok to ask the groups opinion
about this. ie, ... Is it always best to reproduce exactly what the original
mfg did, ... or sometimes is it warranted to make corrections?
Anyway check out the below link (towards bottom of page), and let me know
what you think...
http://www.treasure-cove.net/CabinetDecals.htm
One big question is about whether the original designer "made" the cab front
offset to the left, ... or is it like I propose? ... an error.
Maybe Darin can post a closeup photo of the factory cab front decal, to see
whether this offset is also in the factory films. Please note that I'm not
trying to badmouth 'original factory films' per se, ... but moreso trying to
make the case that sometimes ....... someone like myself re-creating artwork
(increasing the size, instructions, error correction), can be a viable
alternative to the original factory films ..... sometimes.
Or, ... maybe it just doesn't make any difference at all - moot point.
Allen
>If one looks "closely" at the original AFM front cabinet graphics on any
>game, you should be able to tell that the artwork isn't exactly centered.
[...]
I just looked at my AFM. At first I thought the gradiant was off
center as your picture shows. When I looked closer it seems a previous
owner touched up the cab front and painted over much of the gradiant
with black so I couldn't tell what it looked like originally.
However, the gradiant on Darin's new decals do not seem to be offset
by much if at all.
All that aside, if I were replacing the cab art on an AFM and it was
offset as much as your original was my preference would be to have it
corrected.
Both parties should set their AFM decal sets at $149 and we'll see who sells the most.
:-)
"TreasureCove" <TreasurecoveATiglou.com.com> wrote in message news:aMSdnXw7140McD7Y...@insightbb.com...
"TreasureCove" <TreasurecoveATiglou.com.com> wrote in message
news:aMSdnXw7140McD7Y...@insightbb.com...
I think correcting that was a big plus. I will take improved over
"flawed original" any day. It isn't like AFM is a 50 year old game
with a production run of 75. There are a 3000+ of them out there and
you've helped make a bunch of them better : )
Good work.
Joe
So NOS set that is not correct or repro set that is ?
CV had a R on one headbox side and a Square on the other on NOS, we
corrected that even with original art.
All good points from both sides.
Wayne Gillard
The Pinball Factory
www.pinball.com
The ideal case is a totally restored machine would be indistinguishable
from a brand new game, but with such large variations in repro parts
and repairs, a rebuild is usually obvious to people familiar with the
particular game (and it's not just because the game is so nice/clean).
Probably not obvious to a random non-pinhead person playing the game,
though.
-------------------------------------------------
In reality, a lot of us don't care if something is perfect, but it just
depends. I have a WH2O that had a VERY beat up head. I used your
decals on it because cost was a major concern (and these were a
bargain), and I just wanted the game to look decent. There were
obvious differences between the original artwork on my game and your
head decals. The end result looks nice (though not perfect nor true to
the original) and 90% of the people who enter my gameroom would assume
it was original and not look twice at it. I'm happy with the result in
this case, but if I were doing a total strip and restore and spending
big bucks, it might be a different story.
Overall, I've been fairly disappointed in the repro parts I've
purchased. They are generally more of a "likeness" than a
"reproduction."
Wade
and FYI, if you or anyone for that matter, has questions, concerns,
comments, about decals that you purchased, please email privately or call me
ASAP. If it's something I can fix immediately, I will, ... and if not, I'll
refund your money, you keep the decal, and I'll try and do better the next
time.
take care
Allen
<wadel...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168436402.0...@p59g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
If people try to "improve" on production machines, pretty soon you end
up with a machine that doesn't look like the original. I personally
don't think thats an improvement.
I don't know AFM well enough to know the answer to your question about
the apparent factory flaw. I was just answering your question about
"factory flaws" in a general terms.
As far as contacting you about issues or concerns, I would definitely
contact you. The only decal I've bought from you was the WH2O, and I
didn't mean to stress the negatives, I only meant that it wasn't what
I'd consider an exact match. On the contrary, I was pretty pleased
with them - I thought the colors were a good match, the decal has
proven to be durable (I haven't managed to scratch the paint at all),
and I liked the thickness because it hid some flaws. I was happier
with those decals than the average repro part I purchase.
Wade
I'd be in line for that!
Randy
Im looking at the front of my original AFm, and cant see anything
misaligned.
Even if I could see it, I say dont change it. I mean who are we to say
what should be fixed or not? Go with original.
-cAyle