Flattening warped plastics
Evan Dickson
to flatten them out. Has anyone ever done this? Does it work? If so,
any idea about temperatures and times?
Gunstar Hero
I heard the way to go is sandwich the plastics between 2 sheets of PF
glass and leave them in the sun on a hot day for awhile.
seymour...@excite.com
You have to watch it CLOSELY..... personally I use a heat gun as
described on the marvin3m.com/fix guides. Other folks have also used 2
pieces of glass, and the sun/hot day. I think that method probably
works the best. I'm impatient that's why I use the heat gun....
-scott CARGPB#29
Dmod
right out.
Randy
On Jul 9, 4:02 pm, Evan Dickson <e...@evandickson.com> wrote:
Qbert247
I use the heatgun method. Be careful...It's easy to screw up a rare
plastic, so try it on a scrap first!
AL
Evan,
I've used most every method described, including ovens. All have
worked.
I only recommend the sandwiching between PF glasses on a sunny day.
Basically, because it's safe. Any glass sheet will do. I use playfield
glass because I always have a few sheets sitting around in their
"holders", waiting to be pressed into service (pun intended).
With heat guns and ovens, there is a risk of damaging the plastics. In
an oven, the difference between flat and distorted or worse, molten,
can be a matter of seconds. Removal of larger plastics can be
difficult and shapes can get distorted during transfer (which for me,
is sandwiched between two sheets of PF glass to cool).
I have yet to see a plastic get damaged from the PF glass method.
IMHO, it's worth the piece of mind.
If it's an older game (1960s or before) I would completely avoid
higher temp processes.
AL CARGPB 33(1/3)
www.Team-EM.com
llabrevlis
Heatgun and PF glass works very well, I did a set of Mata Hari
plastics as my first try at it, and had no problems at all. Made for
a good use for a couple of really badly scratched playfield glasses
too!
Dale
Robert Myers
Hi Al,
What if you set the oven temperature to roughly the equivalent of a
hot days 'good' temperature (i.e, set the oven temp to whatever
temperature you would consider 'good' if you were going to straighten
a warped plastic using the 2-PF-glasses
sandwiching-the-plastic-outside-in-the-sun method )?
Could you not then just leave it in the oven between to heavy pieces
of glass (say 2 glasses 3/8 in thick x 1 foot square)for about the
same time you would leave it outside in the sun?
You would preheat the oven first, and you could add weight to the top
square of the sandwich glass if you wanted too.
What do you consider a good temperature, and how long do you typically
leave the plastic outside between the PF glasses?
Have you tried anything like that slow process in an oven?
Thanks,
--- Rob
imjay
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I've used two sheets of 1/4 inch plywood to sandwich to plastic pieces
with pressure from spring clamps (not enough pressure to risk cracking
the plastic). I first put this assembly in the sun but had better and
quicker result aiming a couple of relatively low watt bulbs (60 to 80
watt) in inexpensive reflectors about 10 inches from the wood for a
few hours. This allows low heat but enough heat to flatten out the
plastic. I've done this on plastic from an old Williams 68 EM and a
couple of solid state games from the late 70s. Plastic left clamped
between the wood until completely cool.
Never had any visible damage and the plastic flattens out and stays
that way. Home Grown fix but it works - I'd be afraid of using an
over or heat gun or lamp.
JM
Sean Kavanagh
Hi agree with Al that the sun method is probably best due to the low
risk factor, but for some of us who don't live in more sun deprived
areas of the country, or even areas that get winter, this won't work
as well, I wouldn't think. I've always used the method given by
"harry w" in this thread:
I set my oven to "warm", which is as low as it goes...then turn the
oven off and let them cool over night inside. I also use a large pan
of water on the top of the glass for extra weight.
And, once again, like Al says - don't do this with original woodrail
plastics, just be thankful they haven't turned to bacon yet...
Sean
AL
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When I've used an oven, I've used an absolutely flat and clean cookie
sheet, set the oven at 200 degrees and watched through the window like
an expectant father. The very second I see any change in the plastic,
I grab the cookie sheet (with an oven mit... I learn quickly) and get
the plastic between the glasses to cool. An assistant, to hold the
glass up makes this process much easier.
I've never had a glass square, nor thought of putting it in the oven.
I can't really help here.
I have seen plastics that people have put books on to weigh them down.
If the plastics get hot enough, any texture (book, wood) will imprint
itself. Buffing this out is a risky process too.
I do not know the temp if you put the glass outside. I think the
glasses act like a greenhouse. I've left them out for a couple of
hours to a half day. Even leaving them in after sunset for a few hours
to cool.
Hope this helps,
AL CARGPB 33(1/3)
www.Team-EM.com
Fred Kemper
The sun is what warped the plastics in the first place. A
careless tech/op/collector/delivery guy likely transported
the game in the back of a truck on a sunny day.
Destroys ramps, too...
Speed up the process by placing the two sheets of glass
in the back of a truck with a bedliner. Black trash bags
make for a good solor "background" as well.
Avoid any other methods unless you just love taking risks.
Patience and sunshine.
--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************
"Robert Myers" <rsm...@rogers.com> wrote in message
Popbumper1
Even though it's hot in Texas (and in general, outside between glass), I
won't even try that method. Too many variables.
a) Set the oven to 205
b) Wait for it to reach temp
c) Put CLEAN plastics (Novus them first. Don't put filthy ones in there, the
dirt will bake in)........
......on a CLEAN (NO GREASE, OIL, ANYTHING. I learned this the hard way by
infusing a Gorgar plastic with oil bubbles) cookie sheet......
.....artwork side UP (meaning, on the sheet, all you will see is the white
opaque material on the back).
d) Put in oven
e) WATCH them, it only takes about 8-10 minutes. You are not trying to MELT
the plastic, just soften it and let it settle with gravity.
f) After you see them "fall" (become flat), let them sit another minute
maximum, then pull them out
g) Let cool about two minutes, then remove from the sheet. Set on a hard
flat surface.
DISCLAIMER: Yes, I realize there are a lot of detractors here. I have done
four sets this way. Your actual experience and time will vary, due to
differences in ovens and cookie sheets. If you have metal posts in the
pastics, remove them or don't put them in. You have been warned about the
pitfalls.
Chris
"Evan Dickson" <ev...@evandickson.com> wrote in message
news:Zrbdk.3025$1o6.101@edtnps83...
Funky Pinaholic
I've had a plastic crack using the oven method. Most of the time it
flattened fine, but had one just crack (and I could hear it).
The hair dryer / heat gun method has worked well for me but that does
have the potential of getting too hot and bubbling the plastic.
I haven't tried the sunny day method yet. :)
Shazzam
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My Proven Recipe:
Oven: 200
Cookie Sheet: Cove with Parchment paper (Find it next to Aluminum Foil
in Store) Good Surface Protection between platics and Cookie sheet
Plastic prep: Clean as possible - and Dry...
Baking: separate small from large plastics (small plastics cook faster
than large): 3 groups: small medium and large
Baking Time: Until they look soft (not until they are flat)
Cooling: take plastics off of sheet by lifting using the parchment
paper (dont touch them)... Place on Granite Counter or other Glass/
Hard surface... Cover with second peice of parchment paper, then add
the heavy books on top (Fat phone box is my choice) This creats a flat
mold for the plastics...
Colling Time: Until they are cool!!!!
100% suscess every time!!!
Steve
Don O
of glass out in the sun. No pressure, no worries. I ruined the
larger gottlieb Atlantis plastic doing the oven method way... just got
it a tad too hot and distorted the plastic. Have used the sandwich
method on several games since then and it works perfectly. To seal in
the flatness, let the plastic cool down between the sheets of glass.
DON O IN MD
Chris Hibler
A lot of discussion here.
Here's my take. It's a matter of risk management.
Plastics, in many cases, are not replaceable.
There is no reason to risk damaging irreplaceable plastics.
Using the oven, camp stove, hair dryer, and heat gun methods all
introduce risk of damage.
The "two sheets of glass in the sun" method presents =no risk
whatsoever=.
If you have the time, and who doesn't when it comes to irreplaceable
plastics, why not go this way?
Using this method, timing isn't critical at all. You can leave them in
the sun for as long as it takes. I put them out there and then go
about shopping other parts of the game.
See my prior post, complete with picture of some Stern Meteor plastics
being flattened...
http://tinyurl.com/5bgrj4
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
www.Team-EM.com
Sean Kavanagh
Chris:
I agree with you that the sun method is safest, but I take exception
to the general use of the term "oven" used by you here and others
before you in this post and the glut of other threads on this
subject. So please don't take it personally, not that I think you
will!! :o)
Anyways, it's seems there are two oven methods, or at least two
categories:
1 - Oven on a cookie and watch them
2 - Oven between two sheets of glass for a set amount of time
I use and advocate the second method(see my description and link
earlier in this thread for the complete procedure), and I think the
risk factors are greatly different here. But too often I see people
lumping these together as equal risk...that's where I disagree. I
actually think oven method #1 is closer to the heat gun and hairdryer
methods than it is to the other oven method. In all those you are
heating the plastics until you notice a change whereas with the sun
and oven#2 you are not watching the plastics at all and just letting
the heat and time and glass do their job. The reason I say the sun is
safer is because of human or mechanical error setting the temperture,
or somebody else inadvertantly changing the temp on you, or other
unknowns...whereas the sun is constant.
I agree with your point that the deciding factor for many on which
method to employ comes down to time, and for some people the wait is
too long, and that's fine. But for me, who lives in lovely-yet-not-
too-sunny upstate NY, the slow oven method wins. Plus I bought the
damn sheets of glass and feel I have to use them!! ;o)
Sean
Evan Dickson
oven and watchful eye" method. I'll go with replaceable plastics first,
before trying my 60's pin.
Thanks for all the advice!
Chris Hibler
of your work at Allentown. Nice pieces. I regret not bumping into you
there.
So, not enough sunlight in upstate NY.
Well, we can't all be baking in 90+ temperatures with 60% humidity
like we do here in St. Louis. Yikes! :-)
Good Luck Evan. Let us know how the project turns out.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
www.Team-EM.com
Steve C
want to try another method.
I use a glass-top stove with a heat gun to flatten plastics. just heat it up
with the gun going back and forth and not hovering in one place for too long and
it will lift and then begin to flatten. Then I throw some heavy books (like a
dictionary or school book) on the plastic and use that to hold it flat while it
cools. A glass top stove can take lots of heat so not an issue. I heat up a
plastic, flatten it, throw a book on it, and then move to the next plastic. Can
do a whole set of plastics rather quickly.
I imagine you could do it on a playfield glass as well since we aren't talking
about a lot of heat, just enough to cause it to flatten.
I'd certainly do that over an oven. then again, my oven is completely
untrustworthy. it's as if it knows what I'm cooking and avoids the correct
temperatures for the correct amount of time at all cost.
stevebo