pinball 2000 monitor tip
Mickey Johnson
display, but not overbright in that it has poor black level. What it
amounts to, you need the graphics extremely high contrast.
My RFM has an original Wells Gardner in it. The monitor had decent color,
good focus, no screen burn, but did not have high contrast. To get the
colors to look bright enough, the blacks would look grey. The problem is,
this really kills the effect on a RFM.
The reason for this is when the graphics appear, you want them to kill what
is behind the image. You want the virtual targets to be vibrant and clear
so you can see all the detail. The the inverse is true also, when the
target disappears, you want the area to be completely black so that you
don't see the monitor reflection. You want to see the playfield.
Now, you can do a cap kit, replace the monitor, or have the tube rejuved,
but this most likely will not fix the problem. The problem actually is in
the computer. I learned this from years of doing Mame videogame projects
where I would be interfacing computers to arcade monitors. The problem
stems from the fact that the video output of the computer is too low for the
arcade monitor (the two devices were actually never meant to be used
together). It would be like having way too low of a pre-amp audio output
and when amplified you end up with a poor quality sound. There is an easy
fix to this problem. Its available here:
http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2
Scroll down to Arcade Monitor Amplifier. This is the product that you will
need. You will also need to cut your original cable (not recommended) or
make a short jumper that goes from the amplifier to your monitor input.
This will have adrastic improvement on the contrast. I went from a washed
out picture to a vibrant one. I could see detail that I never saw before.
Also the explosion graphics really get punched up by this mod (since they
are mostly white/yellow). I was also able to lower the brightness and
contrast (that were previously maxxed) on the monitor controls and had a
wide range to adjust from.
I highly recommend this modification. If for any reason you are not happy
with the results, you can always just switch back to your original cable.
If anyone has any questions on this matter, feel free to email me or post in
the group.
Hope this helps someone out there,
Mickey
Mickey Johnson
that since most of the time, the monitor is showing a scene with a full
background, you don't need the high contrast. It will still help, but not
the night and day difference that it has with RFM.
"Mickey Johnson" <mick...@derbyworks.net> wrote in message news:...
Nwojedi
Looks great. ???????
Mickey Johnson
depends how close the output of the VGA port matches to the input of the
monitor. I think another way to combat this problem is Happ controls sells
video 'brightners' which do the same thing.
What you may find is if you use the video amplifier that I described at the
beginning of the thread, your blacks will continue to be black, but your
colors will be much more vibrant. For what little it costs, I think you may
want to try it just to see if you can make it look even better than it is.
Also another tip for RFM, depending on room lighting, you may get a ton of
reflection of the marquee on the playfield glass. By lower the light level
of the marquee (I used some metal foil to block probably 70 percert of the
flourescent tube, you can remove the reflection in almost its entirety.
This also helped greatly on how I can see the playfield on my machine.
Mickey
"Nwojedi" <nwo...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1185903146.2...@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
Rare Hero
> Scroll down to Arcade Monitor Amplifier. This is the product that you will
> need. You will also need to cut your original cable (not recommended) or
> make a short jumper that goes from the amplifier to your monitor input.
Mickey, this mod sounds really cool. I have the same feeling about my
RFM ...I mean, it looks pretty good - but I wish it was more vibrant
without having the 'grey' blacks.
So - if you don't recommend cutting the cable, how do you make the
jumper? Could you show some pictures or give a short tutorial?
Thanks!
Greg
Arnie
describe and have hoped for an improvement fix. I will definitely want
to try this, but would appreciate a more detailed description of your
setup.
Arnie
Mickey Johnson
guide, if he decided to not add it, I will take some digital pics and make
a step by step guide.
All you need is about 7 short pieces of wire, some crimp terminals, and a
molex houseing. What you want to do is duplicate the monitor end of the
pinball 2000 video cable. The amplifier is labeled and the monitor manual
would give the pinout of the input connector.
If someone gets a cable before this gets documented correctly please feel
free to email me and I can help you out.
Later,
Mickey
"Arnie" <arne.a...@adm.ntnu.no> wrote in message
news:1185911961.2...@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Bally
Hi Arnie
I can make that cabel for you if you.
Regards
Bally
frenchy
> Also another tip for RFM, depending on room lighting, you may get a ton of
> reflection of the marquee on the playfield glass. By lower the light level
> of the marquee (I used some metal foil to block probably 70 percert of the
> flourescent tube, you can remove the reflection in almost its entirety.
> This also helped greatly on how I can see the playfield on my machine.>>
Where on the playfield does that reflection end up? If it was in
front of or above the flippers and I owned one I'd probably add an
external switch under the cabinet to be able to turn the marquee
completely off.
Mickey Johnson
noticeable.
"frenchy" <mf10...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1185916769.7...@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
Matt Osborn
monitors. I'm surprised that you were not able to get good contrast out
of a K7300 without resorting to a signal booster. That chassis has lots
of adjustment, and shouldn't have any problem dealing the P2K video
signal levels. It has Brightness and Contrast pots on the remote adjustment
board, separate Drive and Cutoff pots for each color on the neckboard,
and you can fiddle with the Screen on the flyback. But who knows...
maybe there's something wrong with the video from your motherboard.
Glad to hear you found a fairly cheap solution that works for you.
I hear you on the flourescent marquee.... that thing is twice as bright as
it should be. I thought about coming up with a plug-in replacement that
uses wide-angle white LEDs. Adjustable so you can get the light level
you want. And that would eliminate the annoying startup flicker/noise
and ballast hum of a flourescent. The ballast also generates quite a bit
of heat.
Matt
"Mickey Johnson" <mick...@derbyworks.net> wrote
> It will vary from monitor to monitor and also computer to computer. It just
> depends how close the output of the VGA port matches to the input of the
> monitor. I think another way to combat this problem is Happ controls sells
> video 'brightners' which do the same thing.
>
> What you may find is if you use the video amplifier that I described at the
> beginning of the thread, your blacks will continue to be black, but your
> colors will be much more vibrant. For what little it costs, I think you may
> want to try it just to see if you can make it look even better than it is.
>
> Also another tip for RFM, depending on room lighting, you may get a ton of
> reflection of the marquee on the playfield glass. By lower the light level
> of the marquee (I used some metal foil to block probably 70 percert of the
> flourescent tube, you can remove the reflection in almost its entirety.
> This also helped greatly on how I can see the playfield on my machine.
>
> Mickey
>
>
> "Nwojedi" <nwo...@hotmail.com> wrote
Rare Hero
has a Samsung sticker on it....but I couldn't see any label indicating
WG or ...whats the other one called..Duck something?
Greg
Mickey Johnson
You don't go by the sticker on the tube. There should be a sticker on the
chassis or on the Frame somewhere. IF it says WG somewhere its a Wells.
This mod should work for either though it may require wiring it a tad
different.
Ok, anyone that wants a pic, email me and I will show you the end of a
cable for a WG. Its not hard to do and you don't really need the pic. The
video amplifier is silk screened and the pinout is as follows:
Red goes to Pin 1
Grn goes to Pin 2
Blue goes to Pin 3
Sync goes to Pins 8 and 9
GND goes to Pin4
This very standard for arcade monitors. What the WG has is a row of pins
that are goes 6 pins a space and then 3 more pins.
I will be sending pics to clay so it should end up in the guide at some
point.
Mickey
"Rare Hero" <rareh...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1185936080....@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
Rare Hero
> if it works its a WG if its broken its a Ducksan. :)
Haha, well based on that, it's WG....actually I just looked at some
pics on pinrepair.com, and I'm pretty sure mine's the WG.
> You don't go by the sticker on the tube. There should be a sticker on the
> chassis or on the Frame somewhere. IF it says WG somewhere its a Wells.
Yeah, if there's a sticker, its on the inner part, which I can't see
without taking the whole thing apart....but - I'm 99% it's WG at this
point.
Greg
PinAffliction
device. Concept is sound if video level facts are correct. Could
improve contrast ratio by up to 300%.
I was about to order one to test out, but stopped at the $14 3 day DHL
only shipping charge.
Shipping charge rape like this on an item that may weigh a couple of
ounces and costs $21, makes a "try it and see if it works" experiment
unlikely.
Please post any first hand experiences with this item.
(CARGPB in training)
Scott
On Jul 31, 11:03 am, "Mickey Johnson" <micks...@derbyworks.net> wrote:
> For the best combining effect you need themonitorto have a very brilliant
> display, but not overbright in that it has poor black level. What it
> amounts to, you need the graphics extremely high contrast.
>
> My RFM has an original Wells Gardner in it. Themonitorhad decent color,
> good focus, no screen burn, but did not have high contrast. To get the
> colors to look bright enough, the blacks would look grey. The problem is,
> this really kills the effect on a RFM.
>
> The reason for this is when the graphics appear, you want them to kill what
> is behind the image. You want the virtual targets to be vibrant and clear
> so you can see all the detail. The the inverse is true also, when the
> target disappears, you want the area to be completely black so that you
> don't see themonitorreflection. You want to see the playfield.
>
> Now, you can do a cap kit, replace themonitor, or have the tube rejuved,
> but this most likely will not fix the problem. The problem actually is in
> the computer. I learned this from years of doing Mame videogame projects
> where I would be interfacing computers to arcade monitors. The problem
> stems from the fact that the video output of the computer is too low for the
> arcademonitor(the two devices were actually never meant to be used
> together). It would be like having way too low of a pre-amp audio output
> and when amplified you end up with a poor quality sound. There is an easy
> fix to this problem. Its available here:
>
> http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2
>
> Scroll down to ArcadeMonitorAmplifier. This is the product that you will
> need. You will also need to cut your original cable (not recommended) or
> make a short jumper that goes from the amplifier to yourmonitorinput.
>
> This will have adrastic improvement on the contrast. I went from a washed
> out picture to a vibrant one. I could see detail that I never saw before.
> Also the explosion graphics really get punched up by this mod (since they
> are mostly white/yellow). I was also able to lower the brightness and
> contrast (that were previously maxxed) on themonitorcontrols and had a
Mickey Johnson
Later,
Mickey
"PinAffliction" <s.t...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1186776853.9...@x40g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
Old School Al
>
> - Show quoted text -
I have not tried this particular product of his but I used other
Ultimarc stuff when building my MAME cab and it works great. His
customer service is also good and I agree the shipping is probably
that rate because he is indeed overseas.
Al