Serious/Professional PF Restorers question

[jay]

What are you guys using for your touch-up paint work these days? I
have used airbrushed acrylics (Golden brand and others) in the past
with some success, but have had difficulties with coverage
occasionally. Do any of you use urethanes or solvent-based enamels?
If so, how do they compare in terms of coverage and application? (I
know clean-up will be more difficult). I intend to finish with an
automotive clear-coat as usual.

Kind regards and thanks for the tips.

Jay

[nwojedi]

liquitex tube acrylics. Easier for paint matching, high quality paint.
certain colors like reds and yellows you have to repaint 3 or 4 times.
sometimes even more, depending on what your trying to cover.


--
nwojedi

* C a p t a i n N e o *
Pinball Playfield restoration service at:
_www.Captainneo.com (\"http://www.captainneo.com\")__:D
This USENET post sent from http://rgparchive.com

[James Lewis]

Watch the videos done by Chris at High End Pins. They dont use brushes
to restore playfields.


--
James Lewis

[John T.]

Listen To James Lewis (NOT!)
He restores tons of playfields....LOL!
Each restorer has his/her own restoratiom method.
Some use brushes,some don't.
They must know what their doing because most of them are backed up for
months/years!
-John T.

[nwojedi]

don't kid yourself. He just airbrush a lot, but if you think he touches
up all his detail work with airbrush. Your mistaken. Chris doesn't
show all his tricks in his pictures. Some things you have to do by hand
no matter what. There is no way around it.

--
nwojedi

* C a p t a i n N e o *
Pinball Playfield restoration service at:
_www.Captainneo.com (\"http://www.captainneo.com\")__:D

[jay]

On May 24, 1:34 pm, nwojedi <nwoj...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> liquitex tube acrylics.  Easier for paint matching, high quality paint.
> certain colors like reds and yellows you have to repaint 3 or 4 times.
> sometimes even more, depending on what your trying to cover.
>
> --
> nwojedi
>
> * C a p t a i n   N e o *
> Pinball Playfield restoration service at:

> _www.Captainneo.com(\"http://www.captainneo.com\")__:D

> This USENET post sent from  http://rgparchive.com

Thanks Neo,

I too have noticed the issues with reds and yellows (even though they
are stated to be opaque). I was wondering if you or anyone else has
had experience with urethanes or other types of paint that may,
perhaps, have a higher pigment load, and therefore better coverage
when airbrushed.

Jay

[jimmiex]

liquitex is very good , water based which I
think is essential for all the times (many) the color is
not just right.
I use Americana mostly, inexpensive and lots
of it.
I've done quite a few, some almost 100%, with
waterslide decals for the text. These are my own
machines so I can have a blast doing them any way
I please but I shoot for perfection. Don't always get it.
I love doing playfields and almost always have one
on a table in progress. Like having a jigsaw puzzle
always in progress, a little here one day, a new
technique another day.
I am thinking of an airbrush for larger areas but
in reality rarely would I need it, maybe for a cabinet.
I am sticking to Varathane out of the can for my finishes.
I know how to do it for one reason. Like all painting, even
your house, proper prep work is 95% of the job.
Be careful with paint pens!!!

Jimmiex


--
jimmiex

[Timme]

I use Golden tube acrylics and apply with either a paintbrush or an
airbrush, depending on the situation. If needed I'll add a bit of flow
release to the paint mix to reduce brush marks when applying with a
paintbrush.

I don't worry about minor brush marks, particularly those that occur due
to reflected light (as opposed to color differences). Once you put on
the topcoat and knock it down appropriately, reflective brush marks in
the paint will disappear if you've done good color match and color
coverage.

As for coverage, I just assume the lighter colors aren't going to be
opaque. So, when doing a lighter color like yellow, I first put on an
opaque white base coat to cover any really dark marks that would
otherwise show through. After all, that's how they did the original. The
screen-printing inks weren't always opaque either, so the PF was
screened with a white base coat first wherever there was going to be
color.

- TimMe (CARGPB3)


--
Timme

[Scott McClure]

I just completed my first playfield repaint and I certainly learned a
ton what to do, and what not to do. It's not perfect, but after the
clearcoat and with the glass on, it looks pretty good, and it's a lot
better than the trashed playfield I had before.

I did it all with a brush, don't have an airbrush, and it took awhile.
I had a lot of reds to cover. I used Americana on some of it, but I
took another path for other parts.

I'm not especially great at mixing and matching colors. So I went to
Lowe's and I got paint sample cards and brought them home and matched
the color that was the closest to what I needed. Lowe's will mix you up
a sample-it's more than you'll ever need, but it's only about 4 bucks.
It's flat, but after you clear the playfield, it doesn't matter anyway.


I will definitely, on the next one I do, use a flow release to minimize
the brush marks. That was the biggest problem I had, but I had to
repaint almost the whole playfield. It's really only noticable with the
glass off and you look across the playfield with a light shining on it.
With the glass on, and looking straight on, it disappears quite a bit.

I'm certainly no professional, basically probably a bad amateur, but it
came out way better than I ever thought it would. I even learned to
make water slide decals for some of the wording. I had a lot of fun
doing it and I hope the next one comes out even better after learning on
this one.


--
Scott McClure

[nwojedi]

James;1945263 Wrote:
> On May 24, 1:34*pm, nwojedi <nwoj... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:
> > liquitex tube acrylics. *Easier for paint matching, high quality

> paint.
> > certain colors like reds and yellows you have to repaint 3 or 4 times.
> > sometimes even more, depending on what your trying to cover.
> >
> > --
> > nwojedi
> >

> > * C a p t a i n * N e o *

> > Pinball Playfield restoration service at:
> > _www.Captainneo.com(\"http://www.captainneo.com\")__:D

> > This USENET post sent from *http://rgparchive.com

>
> Thanks Neo,
>
> I too have noticed the issues with reds and yellows (even though they
> are stated to be opaque). I was wondering if you or anyone else has
> had experience with urethanes or other types of paint that may,
> perhaps, have a higher pigment load, and therefore better coverage
> when airbrushed.
>
> Jay

only urethane I use is my clearcoat. If I switched to another medium,
i'd have to buy 100 different colors, so I could start color matching.
Not worth it. Acrylics do the same thing. Under the clearcoat, you
don't know the difference. And cleanup is a lot easier and safer. No
fumes.

--
nwojedi

* C a p t a i n N e o *
Pinball Playfield restoration service at:

_www.Captainneo.com (\"http://www.captainneo.com\")__:D