Another freeze method convert!
Cliffy
and fast! Of course now I have a big glue mess to remove but I would
have had that either way. So? Ok! I'm a freeze spray convert! Just did a
full TZ mylar in under 2 minutes with less than one 10oz can of Office
Depot pressurized air. Spray - pull x about 8 and bang... done!
--
Cliffy
(CARGPB2)
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Cliffy
as it wrinkles up then simply pick it all up with a stiff plastic putty
knife. All too easy. Total time start to finish less than 20 minutes.
Amazing.
abc123...@iquest.net
Cliffy,
Please clarify... Did you use pressurized air as a freeze agent?
That's all it takes? Maybe you could provide a step-by-step "how to". I'd
like to remove the mylar on my CFTBL and if it's as easy as you say, I'll try
it myself very soon.
Thanks and please advise,
Jeff
*Medieval*Madness*
*Attack*From*Mars*
*FunHouse*
*Theatre*Of*Magic*
*Austin*Powers*
*Fathom*
*Kiss*
*Creature*From*The*Black*Lagoon*
*Twilight*Zone*
Remove the nospam from my e-mail address to send me an e-mail message...
abc123...@iquest.net
> Please clarify... Did you use pressurized air as a freeze agent?
>That's all it takes? Maybe you could provide a step-by-step "how to". I'd
>like to remove the mylar on my CFTBL and if it's as easy as you say, I'll try
>it myself very soon.
Actually, I did a little research and found this link...
http://ben.flippers.info/mylar/mylar.htm
Thanks!
Ben
hard to believe it was so easy. On my Fathom however it was taking up
hunks of paint and pulling very hard. Had to go with the goo gone and
pull method.
Cliffy
can. Hold upside down to dispense liquid whish is what will freeze the
glue.
Off you go now! Waste no more time! DO IT! ;)
abc123...@iquest.net wrote:
> Cliffy,
>
> Please clarify... Did you use pressurized air as a freeze agent?
> That's all it takes? Maybe you could provide a step-by-step "how to". I'd
> like to remove the mylar on my CFTBL and if it's as easy as you say, I'll try
> it myself very soon.
>
> Thanks and please advise,
> Jeff
>
> *Medieval*Madness*
> *Attack*From*Mars*
> *FunHouse*
> *Theatre*Of*Magic*
> *Austin*Powers*
> *Fathom*
> *Kiss*
> *Creature*From*The*Black*Lagoon*
> *Twilight*Zone*
>
> Remove the nospam from my e-mail address to send me an e-mail message...
--
Cliffy
(CARGPB2)
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Cliffy
involved.
--
Cliffy
(CARGPB2)
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Brad Czernik
and such) that both methods appear fairly effective. With earlier machines,
it appears that success still varies to a greater degree from machine to
machine. I tested both on a Devil's Dare that I had and I went the Goo Gone
method after seeing which I thought would work better, as it turned out I
don't think either would have had great success, as it appeared that there
was either dust or dirt on the playfield before the Mylar was applied, as it
was very distinct in the areas where it lifted paint.
- Brad
Ron Strom
> Wow! I gotta admit the freeze spray mylar removal method is fantastic
> and fast! Of course now I have a big glue mess to remove but I would
> have had that either way. So? Ok! I'm a freeze spray convert! Just did a
> full TZ mylar in under 2 minutes with less than one 10oz can of Office
> Depot pressurized air. Spray - pull x about 8 and bang... done!
>
hope my Suggestion of using the canned air from Office Depot instead of the
WAY more expensive "Genuine" freeze Spray influenced your decision of the
product to use.
You are the one though who suggested to me to use the Goo-Gone for the glue
removal and it works as well as the freeze spray.
--
Ron -- CARGPB7 - (Change hot to ice for reply)
Ron Strom
> and fast! Of course now I have a big glue mess to remove but I would
> have had that either way. So? Ok! I'm a freeze spray convert! Just did a
> full TZ mylar in under 2 minutes with less than one 10oz can of Office
> Depot pressurized air. Spray - pull x about 8 and bang... done!
>
BEHIND where you were peeling or the junction of the Mylar/PF from the PF side
as you were peeling?
I sprayed the Mylar in several square inch sections until the underlying glue
was frozen solid and the glue simply didn't stick to the plastic anymore and
almost fell off.
Took me two cans to do my Fathom though.
cody chunn
Debris on the field would have made the mylar less sticky to the paint on
the field. If the paint pulls up, it's because the original paint had a poor
adhesion and/or the glue wasn't seperated from the plastic fully. Sometimes
it's very difficult to remove mylar from an older field without pulling up
some paint.
-CARGPB4
"Brad Czernik" <bcze...@3coinop.com> wrote in message
news:Q8oq9.26668$gr6.28044@rwcrnsc53...
Cliffy
Goo Gone works as well but certainly a LOT slower! I feel like a born
again freeze method convert! ;)
Ron Strom wrote:
> Way to go Cliffy. I've been preaching about my experience for a while now. I
> hope my Suggestion of using the canned air from Office Depot instead of the
> WAY more expensive "Genuine" freeze Spray influenced your decision of the
> product to use.
>
> You are the one though who suggested to me to use the Goo-Gone for the glue
> removal and it works as well as the freeze spray.
> --
> Ron -- CARGPB7 - (Change hot to ice for reply)
--
Cliffy
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Cliffy
used a single edged razor to start about 1/4" into the mylar glue so I
would have an initial "handle" and started at the flipper end. Now I
just sprayed upside down a swath from between the flippers down to the
slingshots, waited 2 seconds and yanked. So I'm spraying on top of the
mylar and all the way across the width of the mylar and about 3 or 4
inches at a time. Basically spray across and yank, spray across and yank
until done! I still have an EASY 1/3rd of this 10oz can left. Mylar was
full sheet from below the flippers to the ramp entrances at the top.
Ron Strom wrote:
> One other thing Cliffy. When you did yours did you spray the Mylar itself
> BEHIND where you were peeling or the junction of the Mylar/PF from the PF side
> as you were peeling?
>
> I sprayed the Mylar in several square inch sections until the underlying glue
> was frozen solid and the glue simply didn't stick to the plastic anymore and
> almost fell off.
>
> Took me two cans to do my Fathom though.
> --
> Ron -- CARGPB7 - (Change hot to ice for reply)
--
Cliffy
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Avalon
d.
"Cliffy" <cri...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3DAA1B63...@attbi.com...
Ron Strom
--
Ron -- CARGPB7 - (Change hot to ice for reply)
In article <3DAA1B63...@attbi.com>, cri...@attbi.com says...
Cliffy
Ron Strom wrote:
>
> That "Yanking" part creeps me out. SHUDDER!
> --
> Ron -- CARGPB7 - (Change hot to ice for reply)
--
Cliffy
(CARGPB2)
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Cliffy
Avalon wrote:
>
> So Cliffy, when are you going to have my TZ ready already!?
>
> d.
--
Cliffy
(CARGPB2)
http://home.attbi.com/~crinear
Bryan Kelly
>Indeed, thanks for that tip Ron! From one CARGPB to another! ;) And yes
>Goo Gone works as well but certainly a LOT slower! I feel like a born
>again freeze method convert! ;)
>
Tell you what Cliffy, you make it sound so simple, I may just have to do my TZ
one of these days. The whole playfield is mylared and it has gotten fogged up.
Never had the balls to do it. Well I do now!!!!! Right after I finish my AFM
shop job.
Bryan (Goose Lurker, CARGPB14)
Lloyd Olson
Bryan Kelly <bske...@aol.com> wrote in message
Bryan Kelly
2002 Lloyd. I actually only have about 2 days worth left. It's coming along
quite nicely. Couple more weekends and she'll be done.
Bryan (Goose Lurker, CARGPB14)