clearcoating pitfalls (bk2k)
Rob G
Perhaps the
worst problem you can have is that it will stick to the original finish
better than the
original finish sticks to the painted wood. Repeated hammering in ball drop
areas,
especially if that area is an insert lens can cause a white haze to appear.
The clearcoat
is fine, but the finish is separating underneath. This is what ticks me
off about BK2K - almost
all the ball drops are onto insert lenses. Suffice it to say some of the
white hazing occured
on the I insert even though it was mylared. I doubled up the mylar in the
ball drop areas
to hopefully curb the problem. I guess it's merely an aesthetics thing at
this point, but I'd
still rather not have it happen.
--
Rob
Jim Knight
should I cling on to the new.
I still haven't gone into laser surgery for "perfect" vision on my own eyes.
Worried about the long term effects of unanticipated effects. May be off
topic, but..... News flash. 2020, what idiots would have done prehistoric
surgery on their eyes?
Think I'll wait for feedback on the clear coat playfields and cabinet
stencils for another 10 years before I buy-in.
Oh well. Just my 2c.
Jim Knight
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message
news:1018uqi...@corp.supernews.com...
Manic
that thing so I'm sorry to hear about that... I'm
"meticulous" also... (beats the "a" word :)
--
*Because John Shields HATES to see people's collections:*
M.M, C.V, N.G.G, T.O.M, J.Y, N.F, J.D, S.S,
Shad*w, C.F.T.B.L, A.F.M, F.T, W.W
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:1018uqi...@corp.supernews.com...
Rob G
drops
onto. However those are very minor compared to the I insert. There is now
a
white 'line' all along the right side that is about 2mm thick. You cannot
see it
when the insert is lit and from the playing perspective it's also not easy
to see.
I don't know how worse it will get, but there really isn't anything I can do
about
it either. It seems to start at the edge of the insert... I've had my TZ
clearcoated
for 3 years now and it's still really good. The HS2 I had done in 2002
eventually
started to show signs of the white haze forming around the edges of a few
inserts,
but it was very minor. I'm wondering how many people with clearcoated
playfields
have had this happen.
--
Rob
"Manic" <manicmusic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:At0Rb.1225$kg4...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
mark french
>eventually
>started to show signs of the white haze forming around the edges of a few
>inserts,
>but it was very minor.
But like the guy said, what's it gonna look like in 2020. Or 2030 etc etc. We
won't know till then. We DO know if you leave playfields alone and keep them
waxed and cleaned and new balls, you will most likely be dead before any real
wear shows up in light home use. And you will probably have sold the game 30
years before that. You are seeing hazing NOW and it doesn't even seem to be
limited to wear, just time...and not very much time either..Frenchy
Inbiz4us
>We
>won't know till then. We DO know if you leave playfields alone and keep them
>waxed and cleaned and new balls, you will most likely be dead before any real
>wear shows up in light home use. And you will probably have sold the game 30
>years before that. You are seeing hazing NOW and it doesn't even seem to be
>limited to wear, just time...and not very much time either..Frenchy
>
>
cheers,
grover
Tom S.
the varathane? They both doing this? I'm about to this stage with my first
pin. And I *thought* I knew what I was going to do... automotive clear...
now I don't know. Would it be better to just take it back to the playfield
(remove mylar that has bubbled), stop there, clean, touch up, spot mylar and
keep wax and clean balls in it. This is definately just for the home.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Inbiz4us" <inbi...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040126012617...@mb-m07.aol.com...
chef Tako
my bk2k was beaten to death. my CV had paint & wood damage that only
bill davis could repair.
i won't even touch mylar bubbles now (on my other games). It doesn't
affect game play.
if i didn't remove the mylar on my 2nd bk2k playfield, i'd be able
to sell it to somebody who needed it: now it's useless.
contrary to what people will tell you, mylar removal is not 100%.
so proceed carefully. You are the one that has to live with the
consequences of removing something that was glued (with no expectation
of being removed) to a thin layer of paint.
--tako
Kevin Rigsby
The trick is to have many cans of freeze spray. When you freeze it..it
should just come off easy. If you have any resistance stop..apply more
freeze spray. The problem for most people is they start tugging too
fast..they get on a roll and that's when all hell breaks loose. Take it slow
and use allot of spray. Example: It took 14 cans to remove the mylar off a
high speed playfield.
8 cans for remove mylar off a Indiana Jones playfield. Older pins need more
spray.
So again...take it slow, use lots of freeze spray, don't tug and it will
peel off with no effort leaving just allot of glue.
None have been clear coated. Just waxed. So far no problems
Kevin
Mylar removed
IJ, HS, TAF (Complete playfield)
NNG, TZ, WW, FT, (Around bumpers, slings and ramp areas)
"chef Tako" <ta...@luigios.com> wrote in message
news:nc7Rb.662$qA7.44...@news.nnrp.ca...
Tom S.
for the mylar removal. some are raised some are lower. Enough to bounce
the ball. Going to have to risk the removal.
I ordered (no idea who sells them in Tacoma) 3 cans of freeze spray and
figured that would be enough to get the mylar up. I'll have to go slow and
see how far I get I guess.
I am glad this came up one more time. I was beginning to think this was the
standard now to clearcoat with either auto or varathane. For both Home and
Route use. Since mine are going to be all home use it is beginning to sound
like I don't really need it so much. But clearcoating sounds like it gives
it a deeper shine and faster play (dunno). Although at the price of
possibly having some issues and not being a small issue, I think I'll stay
with the playfield and see how the clearcoats stand up over a little more
time.
Thank you all for your advice. I can use all I can get.
--
Tom S.
Remove "PINBALL" from the address to send a message.
"Kevin Rigsby" <wisper9999@.c.o.m.c.a.s.t.net> wrote in message
news:oX7Rb.151422$I06.1527010@attbi_s01...
BriMc
upside down? Check out your local Staples, in my region they have kensington
cans of compressed air for 1.50 each. These are the standard size cans not
the small ones.
Brian
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:fJWdnbfrXuP...@comcast.com...
chef Tako
Does there exist spare art for if there is decal problems? If not,
maybe you want to use a hair dryer from underneath to get the glue soft
just gently push the inserts down from ontop.
b) practice on junker playfields the two common methods (freeze spray
and hairdryer.. You may have to switch in mid stream.
c) raised inserts: What memories of soaking the edges with goo-gone and
whacking them flat again. Can you tell that "war & win" were at least
1/8th of an inch deformed.
http://mrhide.pinnesota.org/bk2k/ click on picture 6.
--tako
Bill Morrison
> my bk2k was beaten to death. my CV had paint & wood damage that only
> bill davis could repair.
>
> i won't even touch mylar bubbles now (on my other games). It doesn't
> affect game play.
>
> if i didn't remove the mylar on my 2nd bk2k playfield, i'd be able
> to sell it to somebody who needed it: now it's useless.
>
> contrary to what people will tell you, mylar removal is not 100%.
> so proceed carefully. You are the one that has to live with the
> consequences of removing something that was glued (with no expectation
> of being removed) to a thin layer of paint.
>
>
> --tako
I posted on this topic in early December. The Williams games between
1987 and 1992 SHOULD NOT BE CLEARCOATED with DUPONT 7600 Which is what
Bill Davis uses. Not only do you get the Edge "white" but it also
reacts with the inserts. Also I have heard mixed results even on
other items. A Bally XENON to be exact. Dupont 7600 is only made to
be sanded 1 time and at a maximum 2 coats. It is not supposed to be a
5-7 coat process with sanding in between. This also causes additional
stress and also makes this problem worse. I have used this product on
many games and only had a problem with Williams games. I also do not
use multiple coats. 1 shot. That is it. Really thick. That is how
the product was intended to be used. I know I am going out on a wire
here cause Bill Davis does excellent work. I am not discounting his
work at all. But this is a 5% problem on specific items. Just
everyone needs to know the limitations of this product. Myself and a
Buddy are working with a Body shop at this time and should have a test
field back this week and we will publish the results.
Bill
Robert McHenry
http://home.comcast.net/~nhpinball
RM
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:<1018uqi...@corp.supernews.com>...
WedgeWood
collectors desparate to locate pins that were not "improved" in this manner.
Just the other day, on Antiques Roadshow a man showed up with $20,000
collection of comics whose value he ruined back in the day by preserving
them with an accepted (at the time) spray on to protect the covers.
First rule of restoration is do no harm, and make no permament alteration.
I know some well respected people swear by it, but I think they'll be proven
wrong long after they're gone.
Other problems are the increased speed, which is detrimental to plastics and
playfield. Not too mention it's just too damn shiny for EM's.
A nice coat of Butchers wax (clear, available ay many hardware stores) is
perfect, hard as a rock and easily removed with naptha or goof off.
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message
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WedgeWood
I've been collecting and restoring for 18 years now, and my machines get a
lot of play and still look like new.
It would be interesting to know how many years of home use = one year on the
route.
Not to mention I wiped down the fields regularly.
I have pics taken prior to restoration of my El Dorado from '86, and with
all the games its seen there is absolutley no additional wear.
Just my opinion, but it's a damn strong one!
"Bill Morrison" <w-mor...@ti.com> wrote in message
news:bd1b31b6.0401...@posting.google.com...
Scott
that I had clear coated by bill davis. The playfield looks great and
and plays great, however after about a month or so the white splotchs
appear on the drop area. Mine and others I have seen are not only on
the inserts, but the clear pulls up from the playfield too after
repeated plays. I too tried mylar, but it has not done any good. I
have since switched to doing my own playfields with polycrylic and not
seen this problem. *(however I have seen a tad bit of yellowing) I am
now going to try varathane and see how it does.
Scott
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:<1018uqi...@corp.supernews.com>...
Manic
Used to be you wait half a year to be safe but with automotive
coats people just throw it right back in.
I would think if it was truly hard it would be ok or simply crack in the
ball drop areas (not good either I know)... going "whitish"
sounds like the finish is still soft.
Just a thought.
--
*Because John Shields HATES to see people's collections:*
M.M, C.V, N.G.G, T.O.M, J.Y, N.F, J.D, S.S,
Shad*w, C.F.T.B.L, A.F.M, F.T, W.W
"Scott" <saw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:d93033db.04012...@posting.google.com...
John Wart, jr
the wax...
Perhaps you meant Goo Gone?
--
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
"WedgeWood" <WedgeWood57@(no-spam)Yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:40153d3a$1...@corp.newsgroups.com...
bogart
laser printer tech. She told someone to clean the rubber rollers in their
printer with Goo Gone. They botched it and used Goof Off. Then they really
needed the goo gone as goo was all that was left of their rollers!
bogart
"John Wart, jr" <johnw...@johnwartjr.com> wrote in message
news:c36dcaa902c874be...@news.teranews.com...
Tom S.
some new insert decals are also in the works. BTW.. Where was that?
.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"chef Tako" <ta...@luigios.com> wrote in message
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Tom S.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Bill Morrison" <w-mor...@ti.com> wrote in message
news:bd1b31b6.0401...@posting.google.com...
metallik
faster and will last longer. All this crap about restoration,
originality, collectability and value - bah. These games were meant to
be played, and if a clearcoat will make it play better and last longer,
then go for it.
The_Black_Knight
I feel for your work and effort.
I really never wanted to advocate clear coating a BK2K, because of
mylar removal, lifting paint, and such.
I wondered, if the ball falling off the ramp, might someday cause a
problem, based on heigth and impact. Its even worse to see, that you
had to add mylar back to help stem the problem.
Keep us abreast, if the problem continues to get worse. Such as
getting a white "divit" in the center of were the balls fall.
The_Black_Knight
Fred Kemper
mark french
>>I clearcoated my Funhouse playfield because it looks better, plays>faster and
will last longer. All this crap about restoration,>originality, collectability
and value - bah. These games were meant to
>be played, and if a clearcoat will make it play better and last longer, >then
go for it>>
Making them last longer is one thing, making them last longer with actual side
effects like lifting or hazing that people have occasionally reported is
another. That post that certain Wms games should not be coated with something
they have been commonly coated with is scary. All this "crap about restoration
and originality and value"? Sure we aren't talking about 1953 Corvettes here
but come on, these things mean nothing to you on any pinball? And if they
don't, why are you so concerned about it wearing out that you have to spray a
coating all over it? Just as you said, they ARE meant to be played. As good a
reason as any to not coat them and play them they way they were designed.
(caveat that I see nothing wrong with clearcoating a pf that has been touched
up and/or is deteriorating.)
chef Tako
> That post that certain Wms games should not be coated with something
> they have been commonly coated with is scary.
Woah there. That post at this point is just speculation. Notice how
every man and his dog over the last six months is proclaiming to be
Clear Coat professional.
Cut Bill some slack. Bill Davis carried out many experiments over a five
year period (to see how it would hold up) before offering his services
to the community. Firing up a test one weekend does not science make.
How is this single weekend test gonna prove long term endurability or
supposed to be more scientific than the man that has a done good random
cross sampling of all manufactured playfields?
All playfields face the same deterioration problems. Why do CV
playfields seem to have a higher occurance of the decal edges lifting.
It's more noticeable because of the dark colours. Am i going to be
suicidal because the playfield is not virginal anymore when i spend
hours examining it under the loupe? Do i even notice such cosmetic
details when the game is fired up and i'm in the groove?
Life is for the living. We have to purge r.g.p of the collector
mentality of putting pins on the shelf in a glass box where no one can
enjoy them. Each and every single day that one can play pinball is a
victory.
--tako
cfh
he puts too much clear on. This would be one example of why too
many coats of auto clear is bad. The extra film thickness makes the
clearcoat less pliable, and can cause the problem you are having.
In my opinion, 2 or maybe 3 coats of auto clear is all that is
needed. Bill puts on 6 or more coats, which is way too much (but
it allows him to get the PF very level and mirror-like).
Unfortunately though, in all fairness, it's pretty hard to measure
this. We would have to clear 1/2 the insert with 6 coats,
and have with 2 coats, and then see what happens! But that's my
theory. When it comes to auto clear, less is more. Even the
manufacturer spec sheets say not to spray more than 3 coats.
Now if Bill didn't do this one, do you know who did and how many
coats they applied? Maybe I'm complete wrong here, and they only
put 2 coats down, and it is starting to delaminate anyway (that
white hazing is delamination).
RM
I'll be doing a High Speed myself soon. Is pinballdecalz coming out with
High Speed decals? I have an F-14 that I may also do the mylar removal and
insert decal replacement on, but I really do not want to clear coat the
playfield. If you do not clearcoat, how do you get the decals even with the
playfield? Do you have to push the inserts down further and are the decals
of the right size to recess into the holes to do this????
Robert
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:y4GdnfLbQ5B...@comcast.com...
shabow
> Maybe people don't wait long enough for it to fully cure.
> Used to be you wait half a year to be safe but with automotive
> coats people just throw it right back in.
> I would think if it was truly hard it would be ok or simply crack in the
> ball drop areas (not good either I know)... going "whitish"
> sounds like the finish is still soft.
>
I think you have it here. Bill D recommends 30 days before waxing it
so when he said that I thought, that means wait 30 days before
installing it. I noticed even after the 30 days that you could smell
the solvents evaporating in the machine, so it wasn't fully cured even
then. Best to wait longer.
Interesting the recommendation about dupont 7600 not supposed to be
used in the way he uses it. We'll see how my PF works out (ES)
chef Tako
> I think you have it here. Bill D recommends 30 days before waxing it
> so when he said that I thought, that means wait 30 days before
> installing it. I noticed even after the 30 days that you could smell
> the solvents evaporating in the machine, so it wasn't fully cured even
> then. Best to wait longer.
It's 60 days, not 30. And that is for a normal 6 coat job. I've waited
120 days for my 15 coat bk2k attack and it will be another month before
the first ball rolls on it.
--tako
metallik
> effects like lifting or hazing that people have occasionally reported is
> another. That post that certain Wms games should not be coated with something
Well, this was a lacquered FH playfield, used but good shape.. I had it
shot by Jonathan's friend in Atlanta for $50 .. no clue what exact type
of auto clear he used, but it's holding up fine.. better than some
regular diamondplate fields I've seen (like the CV's with the insert DP
lifting). Really, the FH playfield hasn't suffered one bit of lifting
anywhere... if Jonathan's still reading RGP maybe he can let us know
what that fella used.
> they have been commonly coated with is scary. All this "crap about restoration
> and originality and value"? Sure we aren't talking about 1953 Corvettes here
> but come on, these things mean nothing to you on any pinball? And if they
> don't, why are you so concerned about it wearing out that you have to spray a
They do mean some things, but not the most important thing. I had the
field sprayed because: 1. it was cheap (paid 75 for the field and 50 for
the clearcoat job - I did the prepwork), 2. Lacquered fields will wear
out pretty quickly in the fast-playing System 11 / early WPC era of
games, and 3. I wanted to see how nice I could get the game to look.
That playfield plus some new plastics and a rebuilt Rudy made for a very
nice looking and playing Funhouse (which still has nothing to do with
originality and little to do with collectability.) I should exclude
value from that bit though, as I do keep that in mind, if only in the
sense of avoiding doing things to my games that would *decrease* value
signifigantly.
> coating all over it? Just as you said, they ARE meant to be played. As good a
> reason as any to not coat them and play them they way they were designed.
Some FH's had diamondplate from the factory, some didn't. Mine didn't,
now it does. Had diamondplate been available and tested for decades, I'm
sure it would have been used. Here's where I toss 'originality' out the
window.. Why use an inferior coating (lacquer) just because "thats the
way it was originally?" FWIW the coating doesn't affect play that much
anyway... Clean and wax lacquer and it'll play just as fast as
diamondplate. Dirt is the main factor of ball speed on a playfield, and
dirt doesn't care what is underneath it.
Tom S.
haven't used their insert decals so I can't really comment on how thick they
are. I've seen post from others that have used them, perhaps they could
comment on this?
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message
news:EBuRb.462$zG1...@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Tom S.
From http://pinballpal.com/pinheadz/index.htm
Pinheadz playfield insert decals restore the artwork on the lighted
playfield inserts, which is often worn through on games that have had a lot
of use or that had been neglected in the past. The decals are printed on
very thin 2.0 mil mylar, and are then protected with another even thinner
lamination to make a total thickness of approximately 3 mil - that's thinner
than a sheet of paper. They are pre-cut for easy application. Most
single-sheet decal sets are $40. Two-page sets are $50 and the 3-page set
for Terminator 2 is $65. Printed installation instructions are included
with all playfield insert sets.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message
news:EBuRb.462$zG1...@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
RM
So at 3 mil, I guess it's no different than factory mylar on the PF? I
still wonder, if even a 3 mil edge will cause premature wear of the decals,
or worse, deflection of the ball.
Robert
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JaOdnW60srV...@comcast.com...
Hoopstar
clearcoating but I do have a fair bit of experience in automotive
refinishing in particular 2 Pak systems.
Almost all paint manufactures (ie. 99%) advise to use only 2 to 3
coats of clear. These systems are extremely high in solids and do not
require the multiple coats of older (acrylic) systems. These
companies spend millions of dollars/pounds/Euros in research and
testing to find out what works best and why yet it seems these
playfield "experts" seem to know better and just snub this research
and recommendations..?!?!
Spraying more than the recommended coats of clear prevents the first
coats (closest to the playfield) from properly releasing their
solvents (reducer) and as a result the reducer remains trapped under
the fully cured upper coats - the end result can be "blushing" or a
milky finish that can take a couple of weeks to show up. Also these
first coats remain slightly flexible and can lift as they are not
bonding to the painted (playfield/insert) surfaces properly - again,
seen are spots or milky blotches..
I would assume this would be much more evident (and explain what
others are seeing) around the inserts. The inserts are probably
moving ever so slightly as the ball rolls over them and the
surrounding surface (the playfield) is reasonably stiff - this would
tend to cause the clearcoat to tear away from the insert giving the
cloudy ring at the edges of the insert but still remain attached to
the centre. My guess is this "ring of cloudiness" will progressively
get worse up until the point that the clear either hardens fully or
completely detaches from the insert..
These 2 Pak systems are very complex and require specialist equipment
- it is normally baked at 60 degrees Centigrade for at least 30
minutes in a proper spray booth (ie. Low Bake etc) to aid removal of
the solvents and speed up the curing process at the base level. This
helps the bonding of the clear, especially when the correct number of
coats are laid down. Also, these spray booths are climate controlled
envoiroments and limit the amount of humidity (another cause of
blushing). If a playfield is levelled carefully prior to spraying,
then the amount of coats required is going to be reduced to achieve
that flat finish. Further (and careful) hand sanding with 1200
through to 2000 will bring the surface up like glass..
Hoopstar
www.hr350.com2.info
Manic
sense... at least on a car (but it probably applies fairly closely
to other apps).
But we ought to remember BD has done probably hundred's
of PF's over the last 3 or 4 years and we've seen what... less
than a handful of complaints? If that?
Most people seemed happily shocked that their PF's could ever
look so flat and mirror-like and his super touch up work
and hole repair is the icing on the cake.
The way it looks now is that one guy is actually DOING
the work while there are a couple armchair quarterbacks
(the usual suspects) jumping on a single complaint here...
Maybe we'll see more complaints ten years down the road
... who knows? It's an evolving "science" as most of the
theories on ccoat failure seem to be built on conjecture
also.
In 15 years or so somebody will be able to say "I told ya
so" ;-)
Or maybe it won't be nearly that dramatic.
"Hoopstar" <hr...@picknowl.com.au> wrote in message news:b115aa1c.04012...@posting.google.com...
Christopher Hutchins
it) is all that is recommended by most auto paint manufacturers for cars
these days.That I am certain and well versed on since this is what I do for
a living.There is no real guideline for playfields though because it is all
largely experimental.I have lost track of exactly how many games I have done
not as many as Bill or Clay but enough to have drawn my own conclusions.I
have had no real problems like these being described with the exception of
an NOS F-14 playfield I did for a friend that developed some kind of crazing
around the inserts it was present before but more in the form of lines not
what appear to be fine bubbles(they cannot be felt only seen) .He did
compared notes with someone else that had the same problem using another
brand of clear and was able to conclude that it is probably something to do
with the playfields themselves or reaction from the materials used to screen
the inserts because the wood still looks flawless.I feel comfortable
applying two coats over a Diamond Plated playfield and have done Funhouses
and Whirlwinds without any problems but I try to avoid doing games prior
to that because I do not know the long term on them.I think that flex
additive should always be used at half of the recommended ratio for plastic
bumpers just to give added protection and a little bit of give for
airballs,ball drops and general playfield lifting.As we all know they flex
alot when you set them on the prop rod.If they do not have some give in the
clear they may crack.If the clear is too thick they could also
crack.Regardless of all arguments whether they be for or against it the
bottom line is that this is usually done out of need and you have to ask
yourself if you will be better off doing it or not.There are so many
variables that come into play that you will never be able to say it is good
or bad.It really boils down to the law of averages.this applies when we
paint cars every so often they do not turn out perfect so I see no reason it
would not apply to playfields especially if you are doing a volume of
them.Williams themselves had varying degrees of quality finishes on them
when they were made.
"cfh" <c...@provide.net> wrote in message
news:ace9175.04012...@posting.google.com...
Christopher Hutchins
mark french
<< 2. Lacquered fields will wear>out pretty quickly in the fast-playing System
11 / early WPC era of >games>>
Like I said ain't no big thang to me thinking of clearing used playfields to
prevent further wear, especially as you say a non-DPed Wms game where the
inserts are prone to peeling off.
>Why use an inferior coating (lacquer) just because "thats the >way it was
originally?" >>
In the case of a really pristine used pf that is not evidently deteorating or
in predictable danger of it, or an NOS pf, the best answer I can come with it
just that - "because that's the way it was originally." Sometimes in pinball,
in a fight of the brain over the heart...my heart wins : )
Joseph A. Tony Dziedzic
survive through the inter-coat sanding, and how many are burned off in an
attempt to get a flat surface. Most of the playfields that I've sent to Bill
have their usual assortment of dings, dimples, and even original Diamond Plate
ripples and sags that have to be filled in. I would think that car body
surfaces tend to be a lot flatter than the average used playfield.
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
In article <A_ERb.17609$5K1.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com>, "Christopher
Fred Kemper
mentioned briefly in the recent past, but
the group was rather unreceptive.
Perhaps this will save someone a heartache.
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************
"Hoopstar" <hr...@picknowl.com.au> wrote
Rob G
worn in it
on the I and N inserts from the ball drop. The other inserts are doing OK,
but there
is no way to forsee if they will stay ok in the future.
Do you have pics of your BK2K playfield now?
--
Rob
"Scott" <saw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d93033db.04012...@posting.google.com...
> Rob I can share your uneasiness. I have the same problem with my BK2K
> that I had clear coated by bill davis. The playfield looks great and
> and plays great, however after about a month or so the white splotchs
> appear on the drop area. Mine and others I have seen are not only on
> the inserts, but the clear pulls up from the playfield too after
> repeated plays. I too tried mylar, but it has not done any good. I
> have since switched to doing my own playfields with polycrylic and not
> seen this problem. *(however I have seen a tad bit of yellowing) I am
> now going to try varathane and see how it does.
>
> Scott
>
Rob G
I will post
some pictures on my BK2K website tonight if I have time. Bill did such a
great job on
the playfield and even with a few problems, it's still better than it was
originally. The
white spots do not form in the center of inserts - rather they seem to form
at the edges.
--
Rob
"The_Black_Knight" <pinba...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:90c28966.04012...@posting.google.com...
Rob G
assembling it.
--
Rob
"shabow" <seymour...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:c2d36898.0401...@posting.google.com...
Rob G
experience.
I think Bill does great work, but clearcoating is not bulletproof like some
people may
get the impression.
--
Rob
"Manic" <manicmusic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:XKERb.14592$BY3...@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
Rob G
notorious for
the artwork having a poor adhesion to the inserts. Sometimes I wonder if
decals would have worked better, but pinheadz did not have any.
--
Rob
"cfh" <c...@provide.net> wrote in message
news:ace9175.04012...@posting.google.com...
Rob G
The camera actually makes it look alot better, perhaps due to the
camera flash. I just hope that it does not progress further than it has.
There is a bit of a mylar bubble at the bottom of the I insert because
there was a divot there before it was cleared and a bit of the divot still
remains.
I'll just keep playing and see how it goes since there isn't much else I
can do. I've tried to nip it in the bud by adding double mylar to the drop
zones. I'm also sure there are far worse examples of this happening on
other
playfields
--
Rob
"Scott" <saw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d93033db.04012...@posting.google.com...
> Rob I can share your uneasiness. I have the same problem with my BK2K
> that I had clear coated by bill davis. The playfield looks great and
> and plays great, however after about a month or so the white splotchs
> appear on the drop area. Mine and others I have seen are not only on
> the inserts, but the clear pulls up from the playfield too after
> repeated plays. I too tried mylar, but it has not done any good. I
> have since switched to doing my own playfields with polycrylic and not
> seen this problem. *(however I have seen a tad bit of yellowing) I am
> now going to try varathane and see how it does.
>
> Scott
>
Michael Spyke
this thread. It is, by far, the most complete discussion on playfield
clearcoating that I've seen so far and it has really helped me greatly.
I've got an NOS Eight Ball that I sent to Bill to clearcoat earlier.
These playfields are not hard to come by, so I guess this will be my
experiment.
I will share anything that I see on that particular machine, even the
white hazing if it happens (or if it does not happen) since I really
appreciated Rob's comments and experiences. It isn't a nitpick of Bill's
work, but just some facts that we all can work from and make our own
decisions.
I will let the playfield sit for 4-6 months before putting a ball on it,
so it'll be a while before I post. (Plus I have to wait 4-8 weeks for
Bill to do the clearcoat.)
There are no ball drops, but a lot of inserts on a EB playfield.
Thanks again guys. (and for the heartache of "oh man, should I have sent
that out?!?! What have I done!?!?" ha ha.)
Spyke
Manic
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:101ejvq...@corp.supernews.com...
> Ok, I posted 3 pictures on my site at http://tspp.netfirms.com
>
> The camera actually makes it look alot better, perhaps due to the
> camera flash. I just hope that it does not progress further than it has.
> There is a bit of a mylar bubble at the bottom of the I insert because
> there was a divot there before it was cleared and a bit of the divot still
> remains.
>
> I'll just keep playing and see how it goes since there isn't much else I
> can do. I've tried to nip it in the bud by adding double mylar to the drop
> zones. I'm also sure there are far worse examples of this happening on
> other
> playfields
Maybe but there have been extremely few reports of problems
with BDavis PF's... in fact yours is the only one I can think of
since Jeremy Wilsom said he developed cracks on the ball drop
areas of his cc AFM.
Tom S.
$4.99! Even the Staples website don't go lower than this. These are 10oz.
cans also. Anyone have a cheap source online for compressed air? I may as
well buy the freeze spray for about the same price.
TIA!
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"BriMc" <alam...@maine.rr.com> wrote in message
news:6C8Rb.86278$Su5....@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> I do not know if you use freeze spray or a can of compressed air turned
> upside down? Check out your local Staples, in my region they have
kensington
> cans of compressed air for 1.50 each. These are the standard size cans not
> the small ones.
> Brian
>
>
> "Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fJWdnbfrXuP...@comcast.com...
> > Ok other than bubbling the inserts are not level. That's the main
reason
> > for the mylar removal. some are raised some are lower. Enough to
bounce
> > the ball. Going to have to risk the removal.
> >
> > I ordered (no idea who sells them in Tacoma) 3 cans of freeze spray and
> > figured that would be enough to get the mylar up. I'll have to go slow
> and
> > see how far I get I guess.
> >
> > I am glad this came up one more time. I was beginning to think this was
> the
> > standard now to clearcoat with either auto or varathane. For both Home
> and
> > Route use. Since mine are going to be all home use it is beginning to
> sound
> > like I don't really need it so much. But clearcoating sounds like it
> gives
> > it a deeper shine and faster play (dunno). Although at the price of
> > possibly having some issues and not being a small issue, I think I'll
stay
> > with the playfield and see how the clearcoats stand up over a little
more
> > time.
> >
> > Thank you all for your advice. I can use all I can get.
> >
> > --
> > Tom S.
> >
> > Remove "PINBALL" from the address to send a message.
> > "Kevin Rigsby" <wisper9999@.c.o.m.c.a.s.t.net> wrote in message
> > news:oX7Rb.151422$I06.1527010@attbi_s01...
> > > I have done seven mylar removals...all with complete success.
> > > The trick is to have many cans of freeze spray. When you freeze it..it
> > > should just come off easy. If you have any resistance stop..apply more
> > > freeze spray. The problem for most people is they start tugging too
> > > fast..they get on a roll and that's when all hell breaks loose. Take
it
> > slow
> > > and use allot of spray. Example: It took 14 cans to remove the mylar
off
> a
> > > high speed playfield.
> > > 8 cans for remove mylar off a Indiana Jones playfield. Older pins need
> > more
> > > spray.
> > > So again...take it slow, use lots of freeze spray, don't tug and it
will
> > > peel off with no effort leaving just allot of glue.
> > >
> > > None have been clear coated. Just waxed. So far no problems
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > > Mylar removed
> > > IJ, HS, TAF (Complete playfield)
> > > NNG, TZ, WW, FT, (Around bumpers, slings and ramp areas)
> > >
> > >
> > > "chef Tako" <ta...@luigios.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nc7Rb.662$qA7.44...@news.nnrp.ca...
> > > > Don't do it unless you absolutely have no choice.
> > > > my bk2k was beaten to death. my CV had paint & wood damage that only
> > > > bill davis could repair.
> > > >
> > > > i won't even touch mylar bubbles now (on my other games). It doesn't
> > > > affect game play.
> > > >
> > > > if i didn't remove the mylar on my 2nd bk2k playfield, i'd be able
> > > > to sell it to somebody who needed it: now it's useless.
> > > >
> > > > contrary to what people will tell you, mylar removal is not 100%.
> > > > so proceed carefully. You are the one that has to live with the
> > > > consequences of removing something that was glued (with no
expectation
> > > > of being removed) to a thin layer of paint.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --tako
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Tom S. wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > If I wasn't confused on this topic enough... Is this automotive
> > clears
> > > or
> > > > > the varathane? They both doing this? I'm about to this stage
with
> my
> > > first
> > > > > pin. And I *thought* I knew what I was going to do... automotive
> > > clear...
> > > > > now I don't know. Would it be better to just take it back to the
> > > playfield
> > > > > (remove mylar that has bubbled), stop there, clean, touch up, spot
> > mylar
> > > and
> > > > > keep wax and clean balls in it. This is definately just for the
> home.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Rob G
I talked to Bill (not lately) about the white spots forming and it's just
something
that can happen. It was my impression that sometimes the spots happen even
as Bill
is working on the playfield or even before the playfield is even put back in
a game.
I do know they were showing up on my HS2 playfield, but it was very minor.
I've
had none show up on my TZ playfield and it's been cleared for over 3 years
now.
However the left inlane ball drop is showing some abuse. I did not think
ball impacts
would cause these spots, but I guess I know better now. Now if BK2K didn't
drop the
ball onto inserts and if TZ didn't drop the ball on a switch cutout......
:)
--
Rob
"Manic" <manicmusic...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:73ORb.1668$px6....@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
M. Calvert
Well, 30 days as opposed to 60 really doesn't mean too much. I've
restored cars and had them painted and cleared (granted with three
coats of clear, not six) and have had no problems with 30 days before
waxing it (the recommended curing time told to me by the shop). I
don't see how curing time would be any different on a car than on a
wooden playfield. I guess it doesn't hurt to wait longer, but waiting
180 days or so is just overkill.
Matt
Ron Strom
misterunder...@comcast.net says...
> $1.50 ea? for a can of compressed air? Can't find anything in WA under
> $4.99! Even the Staples website don't go lower than this. These are 10oz.
> cans also. Anyone have a cheap source online for compressed air? I may as
> well buy the freeze spray for about the same price.
>
> TIA!
>
>
for 2/$4.00
--
Ron - CARGPB7 - ron...@hothouse.net
Change the hot to ice to email
Manic
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:101gs05...@corp.supernews.com...
> I wonder if adding mylar helped stop the crazing on Jeremy's AFM playfield.
>
> I talked to Bill (not lately) about the white spots forming and it's just
> something
> that can happen. It was my impression that sometimes the spots happen even
> as Bill
> is working on the playfield or even before the playfield is even put back in
> a game.
> I do know they were showing up on my HS2 playfield, but it was very minor.
> I've
> had none show up on my TZ playfield and it's been cleared for over 3 years
> now.
> However the left inlane ball drop is showing some abuse. I did not think
> ball impacts
> would cause these spots, but I guess I know better now. Now if BK2K didn't
> drop the
> ball onto inserts and if TZ didn't drop the ball on a switch cutout......
> :)
I think that sums it up Rob... both games drop the ball into a bad area. BD
recommends SEVEN mil think mylar pads for the ball drop areas... that's far
thicker than I've ever heard but maybe this would help. I guess it shows BD's
PF are not bulletproof and some problems can/will occur. I was surprised
to hear about the cracking in the ball drop areas on Jeremy Wilson's Afm also.
Yet we really haven't heard of any other's out of hundreds of cleared PF's...
maybe some other's will speak up?
Tom S.
that's what I'm going to have to deal with living in one of the highest and
most taxed states. Time to move where the pins are.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Ron Strom" <see_m...@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a822b6d7...@wa.news.verio.net...
Tom S.
great! Took a little over 2 cans but being my first time I think I used
more than the experts would have. I was surprised to see how bright the PF
is under that mylar. And how dirty this pin really was! Now goo gone that
glue. I am finding out they weren't kidding when it takes A LOT of elbow
grease to remove the glue.
Took me a little bit to get the courage to jump in and take on this project
but I'm happy I've started. By doing so I have really learned (even after
stripping my first PF) what to look for when buying a pin. The best part is
I'm finding out how much I was taken on this pin. LOL
TNT Amusements you got me! But I'm learning and you won't get me again!
Hell you won't see me again!
Want to thank everyone here for all the advice that is given. Especially
those that actually take the time to explain in detail to the new people
that recently started in this hobby like me. It really helps a lot.
Thanks All,
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message
news:dbDRb.1078$zG1...@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
cfh
applies too much clear! Two to three coats maximum is all that
should be applied.
The problem is worse in that there is already a coat or two of
clear *under* the finish that Bill is applying. So if you add
it all up, that's like 8 coats of clear!
The problem on the Black Knight 2000 and Jeremy's Attack from
Mars I would attribute to the application of too much clear.
In the case of this high solids product, less is more. You don't
need all these coats, even if you sand the piss out of it
between coats. It's just asking for trouble, it goes against the
manufacturer's specs, and it's a just a bad idea.
I do a lot of paint, and whenever I see paint delamination, it
is almost always attributed to the application of too many
coats (too much film thickness).
The idea about adding the flex additive at 1/2 the specified
ratio sounds like a good idea too. The amount of flex on a
populated playfield is great, as you stated. That really is
something to think about, especially on games with long ball
drops.
My suggestion is this... if you are paying Bill Davis to clearcoat
a playfield, request he applies no more than 3 coats maximum.
I'm sure if you request it, he'll do it.
"Christopher Hutchins" <CHUTC...@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message news:<5YERb.17594$5K1.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com>...
cfh
much. Also in the "low areas" you still end up with 6 coats.
The manufacturer is well awear that sanding goes on between
coats. But this is a very high solids urethane. I'm sure they
have taken sanding into account when the recommend 2 to 3 coats
maximum.
Also how fast you move the gun when spraying will impact
film thickness. Since a PF is sprayed flat, you can move
slower and apply move clear in a "coat". This will vary
from craftsmen to craftsmen...
ton...@comcast.net (Joseph A. "Tony" Dziedzic) wrote in message news:<3tFRb.131233$sv6.697448@attbi_s52>...
RM
That's great...I'm going to do the same thing to my HS after our Super Bowl
party. Don't want to start now, and risk not having the game available for
the party.
A couple of questions:
How long did you let the GG soak? Did you use rags or the credit card trick
to remove the glue?
Did the inserts survive?
Have you tried to lower any raised inserts? Difficult or easy on HS?
Do you have any wear spots to touch up. I have some in the green area on
the right inlane, and some in the grey area in the upper PF. If so, and you
are successful in matching paint, pleeeeeze let me know the apprx
formulation and paint brand you used.
Thanks
Robert
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RpidnXH6LMX...@comcast.com...
Ron Strom
misterunder...@comcast.net says...
> That's where I ended up going was office depot. 2 pack was 9.99. Guess
> that's what I'm going to have to deal with living in one of the highest and
> most taxed states. Time to move where the pins are.
>
>
shabow
> but I'm happy I've started. By doing so I have really learned (even after
> stripping my first PF) what to look for when buying a pin. The best part is
> I'm finding out how much I was taken on this pin. LOL
>
> TNT Amusements you got me! But I'm learning and you won't get me again!
> Hell you won't see me again!
>
More details.... High Speed should be about $800 or so. Obviously TNT
is a retail place that used to be a semi large op that did 99% op 1%
home sales, now the other way around. Was it just high priced?
Larry
> I'm finding out how much I was taken on this pin. LOL
>
> TNT Amusements you got me! But I'm learning and you won't get me again!
> Hell you won't see me again!
Todd is good at that... he took a friend of mine as well on his first
pinball purchase several years ago. Todd sold him an Earthshaker for
$2000 that had minor issues and didn't even have a proper backglass..
had some cheap repro translite instead. He (my friend) knows better
now.. chalk up another "one-time-only" TNT customer :p
The Korn
> Some people seem to think clearcoating a playfield makes it bulletproof.
> Perhaps the
> worst problem you can have is that it will stick to the original finish
> better than the
> original finish sticks to the painted wood. Repeated hammering in ball drop
> areas,
> especially if that area is an insert lens can cause a white haze to appear.
> The clearcoat
> is fine, but the finish is separating underneath.
That *sucks*! Especially because it was looking so nice!
> This is what ticks me
> off about BK2K - almost
> all the ball drops are onto insert lenses.
??? Where does this happen? I guess on the VUK to the upper
playfield it does, but other than that, I don't see any ball drops
onto lenses. UPF to LPF is right in front of the sling, and the ball
lock area doesn't have any inserts.
Tom S.
and broken. The backbox was hinged on with some cheap bent hinge and holes
drilled. (have to do some wood replacement now) I don't even think HS had
a hinged backbox. Cabinet touch up paint didnt' even match when done. Said
they replaced all the rubbers and now from stripping the PF I've come across
many that are not. And the ones that were replaced (white) were dirty from
unclean hands. I forget what it's called but the vertical portion of wood
that attaches to the PF under the backbox was broke in two and will have to
be replaced. And the touch up out of the hole kicker is the worst I've ever
seen! not even smooth nor color match. Looks like they use a dang piece of
wood to apply the paint. LOL it's that bad.. But fixable.
I'm just saying I won't be taken again. It's hard to know what to look for
and what you should get for what price when you first start. Best advice is
to have someone know what they are doing to go with you for your first
purchase. Or if you can't or don't know someone then get some information
on who is trustworthy and honest. Deal with them. There's a lot of good
people out there in this hobby but I've also found there are some crooks
too.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"shabow" <seymour...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:c2d36898.04012...@posting.google.com...
Tom S.
I used Paper towels wet with goo gone and layed them out on the PF for 15 -
30 min. Then wiped off as much glue would come off. Repeating until glue
is gone.. I plan on using novus #2 once when the glue is all gone to make
sure it's fully clean. Or should I use #1.. Have to read a little more on
that.
Inserts were perfect. Not a one was damaged in any way. The hardest part
for me was near the edges of the mylar. One small spot I noticed the paint
wanted to come up. So make sure the edges are done well. But I think the
other part of the problem was that the mylar was slightly overlayed with
another piece and that might have caused it. Look and make sure that if any
are overlayed even the slightest bit to get the top one first.
As for the paint touch ups that's my next question to RPG :) What brand of
acrylic should I use? And I did hear something about a type and brand of
pen that was used. If I could just remember the name of it. Not the
sharpie but a type of paint pen that was suggested. I like the idea of it
because I could control it a lot better with me not being an artist. I also
read somewhere here that they were very successful in the color match too.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message
news:iy8Sb.1846$GO6....@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Tom S.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Ron Strom" <see_m...@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1a82dbc35...@wa.news.verio.net...
RM
We need to start a High Speed thread ;)
My High Speed backbox is hinged. It's a long black piano type hinge. I've
had two cabinets and both were hinged the same. I wish I knew you were in
need of an original hinge, as just last week I threw out my old cabinet that
still had the hinge attached to the head :(
Robert
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ht6dnY31ULd...@comcast.com...
> High priced yes and also extremely dirty, over half the plasitcs were
warped
> and broken. The backbox was hinged on with some cheap bent hinge and
holes
> drilled. (have to do some wood replacement now) I don't even think HS
had
> a hinged backbox.
>SNIP
someotherguy
"you won't believe how nice this one is."
Richard
Tom S.
of the cabinet where the hinge goes. Can't see the holes when the hinge is
on but now I know it's there. I've got 6 holes and they used some huge ugly
bolts that was obviously not the correct ones. Looks like the extra bolt
length was chopped off. and have to hacksaw off 2 of them because I can't
grip them to pull the nuts off.
Your right.. I've saved this thread since the start. We need a high speed
thread :)
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message
news:%CeSb.1501$jH6....@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Rob G
Ball drops on the 3 insert from the vuk kickout
Ball drops hitting the tip of the 100,000 lightning bolt on lower playfield
At least there isn't an insert in the ball lock area as you mention :)
--
Rob
"The Korn" <the...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b2262ce8.04012...@posting.google.com...
Tom S.
working as I thought.
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:LPSdndpVRvK...@comcast.com...
RM
Thanks for the update....keep me...I mean US ;) informed.
Robert
"Tom S." <misterunder...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:XI-dnTyQH_3...@comcast.com...
The Korn
> Ball drops onto the I N inserts of WIN
> Ball drops on the 3 insert from the vuk kickout
> Ball drops hitting the tip of the 100,000 lightning bolt on lower playfield
duuuhuuuhhuhhh.... I'm an idiot. You'd think I didn't own one. :)
(Especially since I had to replace the mylar on my own near WIN
because the ball drops had completely eaten through it!)
Scott
from the playfield surface, not just the inserts. I'll have to take a
photo and post it. I noticed that one of the guys on here had the
same problem with a funhouse playfield, at the bottom of the steps
ramp.
-Scott
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message news:<101j7gv...@corp.supernews.com>...
Mike Doyle
stuck a paper towel flat to the left over adhesive. Using Naptha I
soaked the towel and let it sit for about 45min. Then I used an
credit card (Payless Cashways RIP) to remove the glue. I went over a
couple spots with Naptha and a rag, and it was done and beautiful.
This Whirlwind had lots of bubbles under the mylar on the inserts,
besides that the mylar was dull and worn.
A good waxing and new balls, and no worries about wear.
About the replacement insert decals on this thread, the mylar versions
are fine for all around use, but I wish for clearcoating projects
someone offered dry transfers. I used to build and fly large model
jets, we used dry transfers for insignias, panel lines, hatches, ect.
They need to be protected with an overcoat, and have a somewhat
limited shelf-life, but are just the ticket for an insert that's going
to be clearcoated anyway without the worry of mylar under clearcoat.
I had custom dry transfers made for a few scale projects, and they are
reasonable, under $30 per sheet including artwork charges. The model
airplane newsgroups probably have the lastest on these, I've been out
of the hobby for a few years. The artwork was excellent, and color
matched to whatever was specified, the detail was unbelievable. I had
some art for a 9 ft F-15 I built that was duplicated from the spin
recovery project "Keep Eagle" that was spot on perfect. After a few
of those projects, my Wife is glad I *only* collect pins, vids, and
jukes now. The original is on display at Wright Patterson AFB. I'll
have to dig up and post some pics if anyone is interested in the dry
transfer process.
Mike Doyle
"RM" <tr...@trash.com> wrote in message news:<iy8Sb.1846$GO6....@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>...
Tom S.
I too wish there were dry transfers for insert decals. That would be great!
Did you just show them a picture and they made them up? Would be
interesting to look into. Although if you happen to have to make repairs
and get back down to the decals, wouldn't they be ruined easy and the need
to buy more? Wondering about the durability of such an item.
Thanks,
--
Tom S.
Remove PINBALL from the address to send a message.
"Mike Doyle" <mdo...@wegelectric.com> wrote in message
news:bee9cdc3.04013...@posting.google.com...
ChrisWoodruff
news:d93033db.04013...@posting.google.com:
> I don't know about anyone else, but I have had the clear pull up a bit
> from the playfield surface, not just the inserts. I'll have to take a
> photo and post it. I noticed that one of the guys on here had the
> same problem with a funhouse playfield, at the bottom of the steps
> ramp.
>
> -Scott
>
>
Who did your clear coat?
cw
Rob G
--
Rob
"The Korn" <the...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b2262ce8.04013...@posting.google.com...
Scott
looked good when it came back, so It's not his fault. However after
playing the machine for a while the clear pulled up in a few places
from the playfield, mostly noticable where the ball drops from the
upper playfield to the lower. The field still looks like glass,
however you get a white mark where it has pulled up from the
playfield.
-Scott
ChrisWoodruff <wood...@pacbell.net> wrote in message news:<bveomu$gp0$1...@news01.intel.com>...
David Gersic
> but it was very minor. I'm wondering how many people with clearcoated
> playfields
> have had this happen.
<raises hand>
Me. I'm fixing my Magic Castle playfield now. One of the bonus inserts
got loose from its glue and started to sink. It only dropped 1/32" or so,
but that was enough to separate it from the clearcoat. The clear cracked
along the insert edge.
--
| David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
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