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WTB: Williams System 11a Power Supply Board
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Jared
Jul 6, 2006, 4:06:45 PM7/6/06
to
I'm looking for a new power supply for my Williams Fire! pin. The high
voltage section is messed up and I'd rather buy a new board than screw
it up even more trying to fix it. I was looking around on the net for
this board and found a remanufactured on here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rottendog/WDP011A.htm but it's $81 with
shipping. I'm trying to get the best deal possible so if anyone has one
for less than $40, please let me know! It doesn't have to be that new
one as long as it works and not going to fry any of my boards or
display. Or if someone has a high voltage repair kit that's easy to
install, also let me know. Thanks in advance,
voltage section is messed up and I'd rather buy a new board than screw
it up even more trying to fix it. I was looking around on the net for
this board and found a remanufactured on here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rottendog/WDP011A.htm but it's $81 with
shipping. I'm trying to get the best deal possible so if anyone has one
for less than $40, please let me know! It doesn't have to be that new
one as long as it works and not going to fry any of my boards or
display. Or if someone has a high voltage repair kit that's easy to
install, also let me know. Thanks in advance,
Jared
gbi...@gmail.com
Jul 6, 2006, 4:16:57 PM7/6/06
to
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=45
Don't hesitate to buy from Ed, he's the best. The system 11 HV rebuild
kit is probably all you need. The most likely components to have
failed are the caps, but be sure to do the whole kit. Also, it would
be helpful to have some insulation tubing (preferably teflon) because
the legs of the transistors need to be crossed and the kit is not
supplied with it.
-Gregg B.
gbi...@gmail.com
Jul 6, 2006, 4:17:46 PM7/6/06
to
Jared
Jul 6, 2006, 4:39:13 PM7/6/06
to
Thanks for the link! Sounds like that kit will probably work. Right now
there's no power at either -100 or +100 and when you turn it on, the F1
fuse pops (1/4 amp SB).
there's no power at either -100 or +100 and when you turn it on, the F1
fuse pops (1/4 amp SB).
Replacing the high voltage components should fix this, right?
Jared
gbi...@gmail.com wrote:
> better link:
>
> http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WAN%2DHVP%2DKIT
gbi...@gmail.com
Jul 6, 2006, 5:28:54 PM7/6/06
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Sounds like the power transistors could be shorted. Eliminate the
possibility of it being the display controller board by seeing if it
blows the fuse with it disconnected. It's always helpfil to have
another game to swap boards between to isolate the problem. I don't
think bad glass could do this, but I guess that's another possibilty.
possibility of it being the display controller board by seeing if it
blows the fuse with it disconnected. It's always helpfil to have
another game to swap boards between to isolate the problem. I don't
think bad glass could do this, but I guess that's another possibilty.
-Gregg B.
Jared
Jul 11, 2006, 12:08:39 AM7/11/06
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I just finished installing the high voltage repair kit I ordered from
Great Plains Electronics and my bottom two displays are working! But
the top two still aren't working... Any ideas on what it could be? Are
there specific components that control the top two that are different
than the bottom two that I could check? Or do you think the top two
display glasses have degassed? If that's the case is there a way for me
to confirm that this has happened and a place I could get two more
displays for cheap? Thanks for everyone's help.
Great Plains Electronics and my bottom two displays are working! But
the top two still aren't working... Any ideas on what it could be? Are
there specific components that control the top two that are different
than the bottom two that I could check? Or do you think the top two
display glasses have degassed? If that's the case is there a way for me
to confirm that this has happened and a place I could get two more
displays for cheap? Thanks for everyone's help.
Jared
Del
Jul 11, 2006, 12:20:26 AM7/11/06
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Is the game still blowing F-1 or any Fuses ??
K's Arcade
Jul 11, 2006, 12:34:15 AM7/11/06
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One way to verify the display is outgassed is to look at the fill
nipple on the back, if there is one. See if it is broken. You can check
with a DVM for power at the tubes. Also look for any glow inside the
tubes. If the tube is out-gassed then there will be no light emitted at
all. Sometimes there is nothing visible but the display is dead so cut
them off and buy new tubes. The new tubes will not have the nipple in
the right place so you might have to mount them higher or re-locate
some components so the nipples will have clearance. I just rebuilt two
D-11610 displays with all new tubes, very expensive and a task not for
everybody.
One last tip: insert the leads and solder after the new tubes are
mounted in place.
nipple on the back, if there is one. See if it is broken. You can check
with a DVM for power at the tubes. Also look for any glow inside the
tubes. If the tube is out-gassed then there will be no light emitted at
all. Sometimes there is nothing visible but the display is dead so cut
them off and buy new tubes. The new tubes will not have the nipple in
the right place so you might have to mount them higher or re-locate
some components so the nipples will have clearance. I just rebuilt two
D-11610 displays with all new tubes, very expensive and a task not for
everybody.
One last tip: insert the leads and solder after the new tubes are
mounted in place.
K
Del
Jul 11, 2006, 12:43:59 AM7/11/06
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Hello "K",
Who has those tubes in stock ??,, I could use 2 myself ,,,,TIA,
Pin-Del,
gbi...@gmail.com
Jul 11, 2006, 1:59:03 AM7/11/06
to
I had both of the top (alpha-numeric) displays go out on my pinbot at
the same time, so it's possible for it to happen. Kinda freaky, but I
guess the bad PS induced it. If you don't feel like fiddling with
soldering the glasses, I think www.pinballpcb.com is the best deal
going for replacing these displays. Kinda pricey, but for the
plug/play simplicity and great quality, it's money well spent.
the same time, so it's possible for it to happen. Kinda freaky, but I
guess the bad PS induced it. If you don't feel like fiddling with
soldering the glasses, I think www.pinballpcb.com is the best deal
going for replacing these displays. Kinda pricey, but for the
plug/play simplicity and great quality, it's money well spent.
http://www.pinballpcb.com/product_sub21.html
-Gregg B.
Jared
Jul 11, 2006, 10:03:21 AM7/11/06
to
The F1 fuse or any other fuse for that matter are not blowing. I guess
rebuilding the high voltage section fixed that for me. I'll try to
check the top two displays when I get home from work tonight. If I find
the displays are still glowing a bit and not degassed, what do I check
for next? And if they are degassed, I guess I'll check out those
websites you guys posted. (I just hope buying two new displays doesn't
put me even deeper in the poor house!) Does anyone else have any
suggestions? Thanks again,
rebuilding the high voltage section fixed that for me. I'll try to
check the top two displays when I get home from work tonight. If I find
the displays are still glowing a bit and not degassed, what do I check
for next? And if they are degassed, I guess I'll check out those
websites you guys posted. (I just hope buying two new displays doesn't
put me even deeper in the poor house!) Does anyone else have any
suggestions? Thanks again,
Jared
CraigC
Jul 11, 2006, 10:23:12 AM7/11/06
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can you swap connectors so you're powering the non working glasses with
the working feed? if those light up you can confirm it's not the
displays and your problem is on the board itself. otherwise you know
it's the glass.
the working feed? if those light up you can confirm it's not the
displays and your problem is on the board itself. otherwise you know
it's the glass.
-c
Jared
Jul 11, 2006, 12:35:39 PM7/11/06
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Thanks for the advice Craig. Are the connectors for the bottom two
displays the same as for the top two? I'll try it out when I get home,
if they are interchangeable. If I do find out they work and it's a
board problem, what do I do to troubleshoot? Thanks,
displays the same as for the top two? I'll try it out when I get home,
if they are interchangeable. If I do find out they work and it's a
board problem, what do I do to troubleshoot? Thanks,
Jared
Jared
Jul 11, 2006, 7:44:29 PM7/11/06
to
Which connectors should I switch in my Fire! to check if the top two
alphameric displays are still working? I see that J3, J4, and J5 all
have the same number of pins. When powered on, I don't see any glow
coming from the top two alphas but the bottom two 7 segment displays
are working fine. Can I switch two of the connectors (J3, J4, or J5) to
see if my alphas will glow or is it not compatible? Thanks,
alphameric displays are still working? I see that J3, J4, and J5 all
have the same number of pins. When powered on, I don't see any glow
coming from the top two alphas but the bottom two 7 segment displays
are working fine. Can I switch two of the connectors (J3, J4, or J5) to
see if my alphas will glow or is it not compatible? Thanks,
Jared
K's Arcade
Jul 11, 2006, 8:52:12 PM7/11/06
to
Sorry Jared but you got to bite the bullet now... this only going to
hurt a little...
NO Glow, No Go.
You need to buy two alphas and install them. Try Pinball Life or Marco
for the tubes. If you need the plastic stand-offs, GPE has them.
I can remove the old and install the new for you if you would like.
Just send me the display and the new tubes. I can test it before
sending it back also. These displays are not easy to work on especially
when you are only replacing the upper tubes. Even when you are done
there might be IC's that had failed also, but you might be lucky.
hurt a little...
NO Glow, No Go.
You need to buy two alphas and install them. Try Pinball Life or Marco
for the tubes. If you need the plastic stand-offs, GPE has them.
I can remove the old and install the new for you if you would like.
Just send me the display and the new tubes. I can test it before
sending it back also. These displays are not easy to work on especially
when you are only replacing the upper tubes. Even when you are done
there might be IC's that had failed also, but you might be lucky.
K
K's Arcade
Jul 11, 2006, 9:00:34 PM7/11/06
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Please do not try swapping connectors... no glow from the alphas then
they are dead. If you have 100VDC at the alphas and there is no glow
then they are outgassed. Doesn't matter what info the CPU is sending.
they are dead. If you have 100VDC at the alphas and there is no glow
then they are outgassed. Doesn't matter what info the CPU is sending.
Jared
Jul 12, 2006, 1:31:47 AM7/12/06
to
That's not what I wanted to hear! This pin has been costing us more
than we want to pay but I really want to get it working 100%. I've been
checking around for the best prices I can find on display glass and it
looks like the displays premounted to the boards are around $69 each
but it would be easy (no soldering). $140 is too much for my wife and I
right now since we're both still going to school and have a lot of
other expenses. The cheapest glass-only (that I'd have to solder to my
boards) I've found is $39 each but I don't want to have to solder all
those wires myself. How much would you charge to install new glass on
my old boards and test it for me? The PinLED boards seem real nice but
for $240 it's way out of my range. This Fire! pin is my first and I'd
like to see my scores but if replacing the two alphas are going to cost
me so much, I'm going to just have to leave them outgassed and play in
3 player or 4 player mode to see the scores! Is there any resource
where I could get these parts used or refurbished for less money or are
there any other LED powered alpha numeric displays for less money? (The
PinLED display board for Williams System 11 games is only available as
a complete four display set and they don't sell the 7 digit alphas
seperately.) Thanks again for everyone's help.
than we want to pay but I really want to get it working 100%. I've been
checking around for the best prices I can find on display glass and it
looks like the displays premounted to the boards are around $69 each
but it would be easy (no soldering). $140 is too much for my wife and I
right now since we're both still going to school and have a lot of
other expenses. The cheapest glass-only (that I'd have to solder to my
boards) I've found is $39 each but I don't want to have to solder all
those wires myself. How much would you charge to install new glass on
my old boards and test it for me? The PinLED boards seem real nice but
for $240 it's way out of my range. This Fire! pin is my first and I'd
like to see my scores but if replacing the two alphas are going to cost
me so much, I'm going to just have to leave them outgassed and play in
3 player or 4 player mode to see the scores! Is there any resource
where I could get these parts used or refurbished for less money or are
there any other LED powered alpha numeric displays for less money? (The
PinLED display board for Williams System 11 games is only available as
a complete four display set and they don't sell the 7 digit alphas
seperately.) Thanks again for everyone's help.
Jared
gbi...@gmail.com
Jul 12, 2006, 2:17:04 AM7/12/06
to
Your best bet price wise is going to be to find a machine that someone
is parting out, get the whole display panel and swap display plastics.
I believe other pins that are going to have the same display set-up are
F-14 and Big Guns. Anybody else want to confirm or deny that and
possibly add some others that might help him get his game fixed
cost-effectively?
is parting out, get the whole display panel and swap display plastics.
I believe other pins that are going to have the same display set-up are
F-14 and Big Guns. Anybody else want to confirm or deny that and
possibly add some others that might help him get his game fixed
cost-effectively?
-Gregg B.
Jared
Jul 12, 2006, 8:04:17 PM7/12/06
to
Say I wanted to sell my entire display board on ebay with two working
numeric displays and two outgassed alphas... How much do you think I
could get for it? If I could get enough to pay for half the cost of a
new PinLED diplay I think I'd like to go that route. Right now I'm
looking at around $80 plus shipping for two new alphas plus $30 for
installation and testing. If I could get around $120 for my original
partially working display boards, I could spend the money on the $240
PinLED board. I couldn't find any other Williams 11a display boards on
ebay so I don't know what they're worth. Thanks,
numeric displays and two outgassed alphas... How much do you think I
could get for it? If I could get enough to pay for half the cost of a
new PinLED diplay I think I'd like to go that route. Right now I'm
looking at around $80 plus shipping for two new alphas plus $30 for
installation and testing. If I could get around $120 for my original
partially working display boards, I could spend the money on the $240
PinLED board. I couldn't find any other Williams 11a display boards on
ebay so I don't know what they're worth. Thanks,
Jared
Jared
Jul 13, 2006, 11:29:39 AM7/13/06
to
I've been searching the group and it seems like a fully working System
11 display board with all four displays goes for around $200. The board
I have works 100% as far as I know but the two alphas are outgassed. If
I ask $200 minus the $80 it would cost for the new alpha tubes, is
anyone interested? So my offer is $120 for an original 1987 Williams
System 11a display board complete with four displays (two numerics
working, two alphas not working) pulled from a Fire! pinball plus
actual shipping charges (local pickup available in Albuquerque, NM).
Anyone interested? The money will go towards a PinLED display or
another LED display if available.
11 display board with all four displays goes for around $200. The board
I have works 100% as far as I know but the two alphas are outgassed. If
I ask $200 minus the $80 it would cost for the new alpha tubes, is
anyone interested? So my offer is $120 for an original 1987 Williams
System 11a display board complete with four displays (two numerics
working, two alphas not working) pulled from a Fire! pinball plus
actual shipping charges (local pickup available in Albuquerque, NM).
Anyone interested? The money will go towards a PinLED display or
another LED display if available.
Jared
K's Arcade
Jul 13, 2006, 11:53:53 AM7/13/06
to
Jared, That would probably be your best bet. Sell your partially
working display on ebay. Use that money to buy a PinLED and pull the HV
fuse out of your power supply. Several less things to worry about. Your
original display assembly can have more problems besides the dead
alphas. If it needs 7180's or 6118's it could be an expensive headache.
The original display is hot on ebay so you might do well but you should
disclose everything and remember to package it very well so it doesn't
get damaged in transit. Make sure you mention you will use care when
packaging and that will make bidders, like me less cautious. I would
have wanted it a few months ago but I have a few spares now.
Good luck! K
working display on ebay. Use that money to buy a PinLED and pull the HV
fuse out of your power supply. Several less things to worry about. Your
original display assembly can have more problems besides the dead
alphas. If it needs 7180's or 6118's it could be an expensive headache.
The original display is hot on ebay so you might do well but you should
disclose everything and remember to package it very well so it doesn't
get damaged in transit. Make sure you mention you will use care when
packaging and that will make bidders, like me less cautious. I would
have wanted it a few months ago but I have a few spares now.
Good luck! K
Jared
Jul 13, 2006, 12:11:33 PM7/13/06
to
Thanks for the advice. Any tips for getting top dollar on ebay?
(Assuming no one in RGP wants it...). Should I set a reserve price and
start bidding low? Or should I have no reserve and start bidding at
$100 or so? Does anyone have any more suggestions or tips for me? This
month has been pretty tough for me moneywise. I had to buy a new
battery for my truck and get the frame straightened as well as fix the
high voltage section on my Fire! pinball. To top it off, the
motherboard on my server died last week and I had to get a new one! I
hope I can get enough money from this board sale to at least pay half
the cost of the PinLED board! Thanks again,
(Assuming no one in RGP wants it...). Should I set a reserve price and
start bidding low? Or should I have no reserve and start bidding at
$100 or so? Does anyone have any more suggestions or tips for me? This
month has been pretty tough for me moneywise. I had to buy a new
battery for my truck and get the frame straightened as well as fix the
high voltage section on my Fire! pinball. To top it off, the
motherboard on my server died last week and I had to get a new one! I
hope I can get enough money from this board sale to at least pay half
the cost of the PinLED board! Thanks again,
Jared
Rob
Jul 13, 2006, 12:32:45 PM7/13/06
to
Try selling it on Mr.pinball for 120 as is. Wont cos't anything to put
it up for sale.
Rob
it up for sale.
Rob
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