No more clearcoating for me, NOT a chance!
Jeremy
clearcoated playfield, and the more I play it, the less I like it. The
game plays way too fast and the ball just slides around and bounces
off of everything. Forget about putting any english on the ball or
making consistent shots...ack! I think for the sake of preservation
it's OK, but if you like playing your games, and not just staring at
shiny playfields, skip the clearcoating.
I wish I had just had Bill do the touchup repairs and then buffed it
out. Oh well, I won't make the same mistake with my other games,
especially the MM, which needs slight touchup near the castler popper.
I plan on sending it to Bill, but no clearcoating on this expensive
playfield, no way. The CFTBL is 90% restored as of now and I will post
pics of the finished project within the next few weeks. Let's just say
a buffer, Novus, Liquid Glass, and Staples carnauba wax did wonders
for this tired Creature playfield :-)
-Jeremy
TZ, TAF, TS, SC, CFTBL, MM
John Wart, jr
Can't wait to see the Liquid Glass and Staples Carnuba results... I've got
my Creature buffed using TreasureCove's tools, and the result is nothing
short of amazing! I still need to give it 1 or 2 more cleanings, and a
waxing, but I'm amazed at what I've already got!
--john
--
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
"Jeremy" <jdon...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec02fd3.03102...@posting.google.com...
Rob G
coils do you have in the game? When I had my HS2 playfield clearcoated,
I switched all the coils to RED. I did the same with the BK2K I am just
about done.
--
Rob
"Jeremy" <jdon...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec02fd3.03102...@posting.google.com...
Aron Boag
ec02fd3.03102...@posting.google.com, "Jeremy"
<jdon...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Well, okay, but keep in mind that all of the games you have listed in your
collection, without exception, were already clearcoated when they shipped
from the factory. To be frank, with the exception of the touchups to
worn/chipped parts of the playfields, *you* shouldn't have any actual need
for getting your playfields BDed.
However, things were not always this way. I recently bought an NOS,
de-mylared, BDed Whirlwind playfield from Kerry Stair *precisely because* of
the dilapidated condition that most Whirlwind playfields are in. I cannot
*stand* to see the difference in the playfield from where the mylar covered
and where it didn't, so I was willing to pay a premium for my clearcoating,
as only a small percentage of Whirlwind playfields were ever Diamond Plate
playfields. It wasn't cheap, but it sure was *worth* it. I can't wait to
find the right game to install it in.
I've also seen some work that Clay has done on an NOS old EM playfield (he
had me transport one, once) that he had clearcoated himself, and after
seeing that in person, it would be the first thing I had done. The beauty,
the protection, the shine...worth every penny, IMHO. NOS playfields
certainly aren't cheap (for *any* era of pin), and I'm prone to want to
protect that investment.
In your case, however, it really isn't necessary. Most pre-clearcoated
playfields wouldn't really *need* a second session of clearcoating, unless
you've just gotta have that ultra-thick shine. And in that case, it really
isn't a matter of "need" so much as it would be a matter of "want".
I just wouldn't go throwing the baby out with the bathwater on the issue of
clearcoating. That's all I'm saying.
Aron
Manic
preserve your machine and it will still play a hundred miles
an hour. For a BDavis PF lower power coils might be a must
for some players.
--
*Because John Shields HATES to see people's collections:*
M.M, C.V, N.G.G, T.O.M, J.Y, N.F, J.D,
Shad*w, C.F.T.B.L, T.A.F, A.F.M, F.T, W.W
"Rob G" <lost.in....@sasktel.net> wrote in message
news:vpuoeei...@corp.supernews.com...
shabow
lost a lot of $$$) in the late 80s early 90s because I would get the
machine and set it factory or a little harder and master the game, get
bored and sell it. Now, $15,000 later I'm trying to get those games
back because I'm not bored of them. Now I set them a lot harder than
factory, yes it's frustrating but once you learn the speed and angles,
much more enjoyable (and more of the "awwww man" factor)
Rob Bell
I also thought the same way with my CFTBL when I first installed my
NOS Bill Davis playfield, but after about twenty games I got the feel
for it and I now have no issues with it what so ever. In fact, I
actually like the way the game plays faster (to each his own I guess).
I have a NOS Earthshaker playfield that I am going to send to Bill
also. I can't wait to see how that game is going to play after the
swap! I also plan to have my SS and Gorgar playfields cleared.
So don't get yourself down. Be patient and have fun with your games.
Oh yeah, one other thing... Work on your playing skills :-)
Rob Bell
CFTBL, SS, T2, CP, Xenon, Spy Hunter, BH, ES, Gorgar
Bruce
You can't compare a rub-on polish with a refinished surface. Judging
by the original poster's "Subject" line. He has either never
clearcoated a PF or lacks a critical eye.
I felt the need to chime in for, the benefit someone sitting on the
fence and thinking, "Why bother with CC when I can just LG"... I'm
glad he's happy with the results of the Liquid Glass, but....
clearcoat is a whole different thing.
Arizona Bruce
Bruce
a PF. You are correct... It is, but don't lower the flipper coils.
After a few hundred plays, the PF will have some "Scuff" and it will
normalize. You will then want the old coils back on.
Arizona Bruce
James E. Hayes
after it gets some play. My Bill Davis clearcoated games play the same as my
superclean non-clearcoated games.
Jim
"Bruce" <bruc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:395a1a88.03102...@posting.google.com...
dugmar
I've found opposite results on my FH PF.
I can make very consistent shots, and the speed is just right.
--
-Doug
"Jeremy" <jdon...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec02fd3.03102...@posting.google.com...
Ceegary
up to now ;-)
Whenever I restore a pin it invariably involves touching up the pf and after
that I ALWAYS clear them. If our pins started out on route they already have
substantial wear and we could have serious problems in time if we don't
clear, even with home use from here on out. I also find that after a
certain amount of plays the "slide" disappears. The easiest play on a game
is when it's dirty as heck and slow as molasses but I happen to love fast
games and besides the clear, I set my legs to the steepest angle too. (PS
all the games that I've seen that "we" in Phoenix have cleared do shine!).
GRY
"Rob Bell" <rob_...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:90323841.03102...@posting.google.com...
Donnie Barnes
I agree completely. I don't understand the concept that somehow a game
with fresh BD clearcoat is any faster than a game with factory clearcoat.
Sure, it could be some tiny bit faster than a non clearcoated playfield,
but the protection is worth it, IMHO.
Sure, a factory clearcoat game that gets a good bit of wear may not play
as fast as it used to, but that means it's broken. Fixing it with BD
clearcoat *restores* it to it's factory fresh fast play. This is a
*good* thing. :)
I do agree with some that lower power coils in some cases may be a good
idea. It's relatively easy to try, so go for it!
--Donnie
--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com d...@donniebarnes.com 879. V.
frenchy
> I've also seen some work that Clay has done on an NOS old EM playfield (he
> had me transport one, once) that he had clearcoated himself, and after
> seeing that in person, it would be the first thing I had done. The beauty,
> the protection, the shine...worth every penny, IMHO. NOS playfields
> certainly aren't cheap (for *any* era of pin), and I'm prone to want to
> protect that investment.
>
Anybody puts clearcoat on my NOS EBD playfield I'll spray another can
of the stuff down their throat. Look at the original thread here, he
is saying even a game that was originally diamondplated is honked up
now because the new clearcoat is way too fast. That would go DOUBLE
for a EM game that originally came with non-mirror-finish laquer.
That's not even taking into consideration the now the EM game won't
even look original anymore. If you want to say it looks all shiny and
slick or whatever, great if that is what you want it to look like -
but protecting your investment? I would pick an original NOS EM pf
over a sprayed one every time and protect it with wax, polished balls
and frequent gentle cleaning. Saving a touched-up beater with clear
is one thing...but if I actually saw somebody spraying an NOS Fathom
or Fireball or Black Knight I think I'd end up looking like those guys
in that "Scanners" flick when their heads blow up...Frenchy
Manic
your rusty ramp flaps. Looks unseemly on a nice PF ;-)
--
*Because John Shields HATES to see people's collections:*
M.M, C.V, N.G.G, T.O.M, J.Y, N.F, J.D,
Shad*w, C.F.T.B.L, T.A.F, A.F.M, F.T, W.W
"Andy" <an...@NOSPAMcharlottepinball.com> wrote in message
news:leNnb.24823$v82.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
I couldn't agree more with Aron. I had my Whilwind pf touched up and
cleared by Chris Hutchins, and it looks fantastic. But, most Whirlwind's
were not clearcoated and finding them in any sort of restorable condition is
difficult. I think if the game requires it, it should be done. Otherwise,
save your money and time for something else!
Andy
Chris Munson
My EBD has a clearcoated NOS field (Varathaned). It plays MUCH differently
than an original; the ball has more spin, the playfield has less "grab", and it
is very unforgiving. I know this because I have another EBD downstairs that I
use as a test game, and I can play the snot out of it.
Is this annoying? Yes - it has made me feel differently about the game.
HOWEVER, by comparison, I have both a Centaur and Black Hole that have been
retouched and cleared, and, while the Centaur plays "about the same", the Black
Hole is GREATLY IMPROVED - the ball travel is much faster, and it is
delightful.
I think really that from the messages we are seeing here we can conclude NO
generic "affect" of clearcoating - it "seems" to do different things to
different games. Am I proponent of it? Yes I am, I would not do otherwise.
Frenchy is REALLY going to hate me when I get around to clearcoating my
friend's NOS Black Knight fields. You heard that right - NOS Black Knight.
Sorry, Mark.
Chris
Jeremy
except 5-balls. I believe I toured the mansion twice in that game ;-)
3 and 4-way combos are very gratifying! Anyway, the coils are all new
correct units with WMS rebuild kits and pitch is set at 6.5 degrees.
Maybe I'll stop polishing the TAF playfield with Novus 1 and keeping
it super clean then. Either that, or swap out the coils or reduce
pitch to slow things down to normal. Thanks for the suggestions
guys...
-Jeremy
rob_...@pacbell.net (Rob Bell) wrote in message news:<90323841.03102...@posting.google.com>...
someotherguy
Ever since Williams started diamondplating their playfields, what do
you honestly think the difference is in the surface of a brand-new
diamondplate playfield, and a clearcoated playfield? Both will play
super fast.
You're just used to your worn playfield. It happens.
When I installed my clearcoated PinBot NOS playfield, yes the game
became super-fast compared to the original, worn, MYLAR covered
playfield. My average score was less than ONE-FOURTH my old scoring
ability. However, after a few weeks I was back up to normal levels,
having become used to the difference in game play.
Richard
Ldnayman
>it super clean then. Either that, or swap out the coils or reduce
>pitch to slow things down to normal. Thanks for the suggestions
>guys...
>
>-Jeremy
I don't know about that. I'd say make it a steeper pitch. If you level it out,
that ball will rocket off the flippers, ricochet off the electric chair, and
most likely fire through the glass, into the translight, and out of the cloud
topper. Making it steeper might actually balance things out a bit.
Iain Odlin
>It's been a year since I restored my TAF with the Bill Davis
>clearcoated playfield, and the more I play it, the less I like it. The
>game plays way too fast and the ball just slides around and bounces
>off of everything.
But that's how it came from the factory: With a nice shiny smooth
*clearcoated* playfield. If you're going to maintain your pins at
'just out of the box' condition, they're going to play like they're
just out of the box...
Try putting in lower power flipper coils, increasing the playfield
slope, letting it get a little dirty, sanding the playfield lightly
with fine-but-not-finish-shine-fine sandpaper? Or I'm dead certain
you can find someone willing to trade his non-Davis'd TAF for yours.
-Iain
steve kulpa
> I plan on sending it to Bill, but no clearcoating on this expensive
> playfield, no way. The CFTBL is 90% restored as of now and I will post
> pics of the finished project within the next few weeks. Let's just say
> a buffer, Novus, Liquid Glass, and Staples carnauba wax did wonders
> for this tired Creature playfield :-)
>
Well, let me ask you this, and I'm not being critical, I *really* want
to know... If I have some touch-up done in an area accessable to the
ball, how else can I protect the new paint other than clear-coat? I
don't believe that wax alone will protect the new paint from ball
wear, as what I've read in Clay's stuff, it only fills in the little
dips and valleys making the surface smoother. Wax does not lay down a
protective coating.
Right?
I'm not about to send a pf off to Bill for touch-up only, or do it
myself (at 4x the time and -5x the quality), only to have it wear off
in a year or so of home play.
steve (CARGPB10)
---
Steve Kulpa - Knoxville Tennessee
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/
http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Joseph A. Tony Dziedzic
factory clearcoat. I have NOS IJ and NGG playfields and both show some amount
of ripple in the finish (almost like orange peel, but not exactly). Since
Bill applies several coats of finish and sands to a molecularly-flat surface
(well, maybe not quite that smooth, but it *looks* that way!) it stands to
reason a BD clearcoated playfield would probably play faster than a factory
clearcoated playfield.
Unscientific sample - I polished and buffed the HECK out of the playfield in
my TZ when I first shopped the game. It looked very glossy but in no way did
it play as fast as it does after a BD clearcoat.
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
In article <kv60qv43n3dk122q4...@4ax.com>, i_o...@hotmail.com
wrote:
Aron Boag
49a3ceb0.03102...@posting.google.com, "frenchy"
<mf10...@aol.com> wrote:
To each his own, but I'd disagree with you, on a couple different fronts.
Playfield wear: hey, you can believe what you like, but unprotected or
poorly protected playfields *do* get eaten alive by the ball. Perhaps
you've seen such wear: by pop bumpers, by shooters lanes, by areas where
mylar ends. There's a *very* clear distinction in the way said playfields
look when they're unprotected. There isn't any way on *earth* that I'd want
what happened to several Monopoly playfields to happen to my Whirlwind
playfield. It's just absurd. Pop bumper wear is especially evident, even
with mylar. Once the mylar ends, or starts lifting, there's an
all-too-evident change in the way the playfield looks. I can't stand the
dichotomy, especially in easy-seen areas. Ick.
Scoop/eject/outhole wear: they sure do take a licking, don't they?
Clearing these, followed by as much protection as humanly possible (i.e.
Cliffy's or Kerry's protectors, mylar, etc.) seems to be a logical step in
keeping these as attractive as possible. Without some form of clearcoat,
these get eaten alive, just through basic play. Check out a WCS sometime.
The Assist saucer is usually horrible. Why not repair that and then give it
a little extra help, once the repair work is done? Heck, I'm thinking of
having Cliffy or Kerry whip me up some sort of thing to keep the wear away
from my Whirlwind playfield's spinning disc area...don't know if it'll be
possible, but who knows?
I'll say it again: that old NOS EM playfield that Clay clearcoated was a
thing of beauty. The artwork contained therein will most likely be
preserved forever. It wasn't just me that thought so: a couple other RGP
members saw the work and were "oohing" and "aahing" as well. I'd want it
done to mine if I had one.
Would it play faster than originally? Sure, probably. At least for a
while. But as you can see from other posts in the thread, a little bit of
play will calm the speed down a bit. Also, you can probably bet that if a
person's installing an NOS clearcoated playfield, they're probably
installing a good number of other NOS parts, including all-new (and
therefore, quite strong and quick) mechanical assemblies, like bumpers,
flippers, etc. You want to tell me that *those* won't speed up the game to
a crazy degree as well?
Besides, EBD isn't worth the time or money. ;)
Aron (ducking, because that last part was just to goad other people on...)
frenchy
> I think really that from the messages we are seeing here we can conclude NO
> generic "affect" of clearcoating - it "seems" to do different things to
> different games. Am I proponent of it? Yes I am, I would not do otherwise.
> Frenchy is REALLY going to hate me when I get around to clearcoating my
> friend's NOS Black Knight fields. You heard that right - NOS Black Knight.
> Sorry, Mark.
>
Don't sweat it Chris, it's your game. I don't mind clearcoating
touched up games so I am not a clear-hater. Just something about an
NOS pf, to me it's like, I dunno, you can't get any better than that,
man. Ever. I just couldn't bear to spray permanent stuff on it
whether it makes it last forever or not. MAYBE I could be beaten into
doing it if it didn't affect the play AND looked exactly like the
original finish I'd consider it. But neither of those are true.
I will either be dead or the game sold to somebody else before I ever
see a speck of wear on my meticulously maintained lightly played EBD,
what's my worry? And I've seen too many old original games with 10s
of thousands of games on them with no real wear to start worrying now.
Anyway we all know nobody listens to me around here, I just post
because it's fun listening to my own echo...echo...echo ; )
Randy P.
news:ee336853.03102...@posting.google.com...
> Well, let me ask you this, and I'm not being critical, I *really* want
> to know... If I have some touch-up done in an area accessable to the
> ball, how else can I protect the new paint other than clear-coat?
Mylar should do the trick nicely, and last a very long time. More than
likely you'll want Mylar there anyway, since it's the high-wear areas that
tend to need the touch-up.
Randy
Dr. Dave
DR
http://home.comcast.net/~davesarcade/
See whats currently in my gameroom here:
http://www.pinlist.org/gameroom.cfm?id=143
"dugmar" <dug...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kKRnb.17621$YO5.8...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
Tim Meighan
A lot of interesting opinions in this thread, all with merit.
I do think it's great to take an old EM playfield and restore the
artwork and re-topcoat it to get it back to the kind of speed and play
characteristics it had when new.
I'm not a big fan of mylar on EM PFs - it doesn't look quite right to
me, and I think it changes the way the game plays. So I prefer to
topcoat as a way to protect the touch-ups. I've been very happy with
the results I get with polyurethane as a topcoat. It seems to provide
the right look, speed, and ball behavior.
As usual, it's a largely a matter of personal choice. - TimMe
(CARGPB3)
metallik
> playfield. It's just absurd. Pop bumper wear is especially evident, even
Yeah, just ask Alan Meyer! Thats a shame about the BK :(
> having Cliffy or Kerry whip me up some sort of thing to keep the wear away
> from my Whirlwind playfield's spinning disc area...don't know if it'll be
> possible, but who knows?
If it's clearcoated, they oughta be fine in home use.. Just keep the
disc surface level with the playfield.
Aron Boag
"metallik" <meta...@fuse.removethis.net> wrote:
>> what happened to several Monopoly playfields to happen to my Whirlwind
>> playfield. It's just absurd. Pop bumper wear is especially evident, even
>
> Yeah, just ask Alan Meyer! Thats a shame about the BK :(
That was the first thing that popped into my head, believe it or not! Good
call!
>> having Cliffy or Kerry whip me up some sort of thing to keep the wear away
>> from my Whirlwind playfield's spinning disc area...don't know if it'll be
>> possible, but who knows?
>
> If it's clearcoated, they oughta be fine in home use.. Just keep the
> disc surface level with the playfield.
The key word there being "oughta". I'm hoping to make *certain* that there
won't be any wear, as you darned well know just how *very* bad that game is
in that area. Yikes.
I'll understand if it isn't possible (I'm dead sure that they'll have them
for both scoops), but the spinning discs are also problematic, perhaps even
more so than the scoops! Wish there was something we could do about eject
wear on pins...
Aron
metallik
>>disc surface level with the playfield.
>
> The key word there being "oughta". I'm hoping to make *certain* that there
> won't be any wear, as you darned well know just how *very* bad that game is
> in that area. Yikes.
>
> I'll understand if it isn't possible (I'm dead sure that they'll have them
> for both scoops), but the spinning discs are also problematic, perhaps even
> more so than the scoops! Wish there was something we could do about eject
> wear on pins...
A friend here has a WW that's seen some decent play but not real bad...
has some ball swirlies but otherwise nice... anyway, it only has a
little bit of wear at the disc hole edge. This is a non-DP field. If you
got a BD clearcoat, I bet it's fine.. the clear is sticking to wood on
that edge, not an insert, so it shouldn't chip.
Use NGG as a good comparison.. find a beat Gofers and check the edge of
the disc hole for wear. I know CV playfields wear around the
Ringpaster, but these are different in that the ball can fall down that
hole and tear up the edge a lot more. WW doesn't have that problem. I
haven't seen any Gofers with disc wear, so your WW oughta be safe.
If you're truly paranoid, cut a round mylar an inch bigger than the
hole(s), slap it on and use an xacto knife to cut the edge exactly at
the edge of the hole... that half-inch ring will protect the edges. :)
Bruce
> touched up games so I am not a clear-hater. Just something about an
> NOS pf, to me it's like, I dunno, you can't get any better than that,
> man. Ever. I just couldn't bear to spray permanent stuff on it
> whether it makes it last forever or not. MAYBE I could be beaten into
> doing it if it didn't affect the play AND looked exactly like the
> original finish I'd consider it. But neither of those are true.
> I will either be dead or the game sold to somebody else before I ever
> see a speck of wear on my meticulously maintained lightly played EBD,
> what's my worry? And I've seen too many old original games with 10s
> of thousands of games on them with no real wear to start worrying now.
> Anyway we all know nobody listens to me around here, I just post
> because it's fun listening to my own echo...echo...echo ; )
I used to think the same way, Why clear an NOS Diamondplate PF and the
conclusion I finaly came to was this...
Pinball manufactures didn't make especially shiny PF's not because it
was bad, but because it cost more, you need somewhat more clear coat
and you have to pay somebody more to buff and glaze for an hour to get
that shine, 20 bucks for clear 10 bucks more labor. They saved $30
(and in their eyes it's $30 here and $30 there) I don't blame them a
bit, but that dosen't mean if a colector later wants to spend the
extra time and money, it's bad, to the Contrary and that's why I would
clear a PF even if it was NOS and Diamondplate.
Arizona Bruce
Ldnayman
>the results I get with polyurethane as a topcoat. It seems to provide
>the right look, speed, and ball behavior.
>
What kind of polyeurathane? I'm using polyeurathane and an eye dropper to fill
in a few sunken inserts. Can I use the same stuff to cover some new playfield
touch ups? How should I apply it?
steve kulpa
>
> likely you'll want Mylar there anyway, since it's the high-wear areas that
> tend to need the touch-up.
>
Hmmm, I'm not a big fan of mylar. Under pop bumpers - YES. Next to
slings - MAYBE. Ball landing zones for kickers - YES. Elsewhere -
NO.
I forgot to mention, one place i need to touch up is a gouge, not
wear, but it is in a well traveled area, hence my original post.
thanks for your thoughts, I always appreciate advise and opinion,
even if I don't whole-heartedly agree.
Schmitty
"Affect". The coefficeient of friction (AKA slickness of playfield)
for varathane should theoretically always be the same. The only
varaible is what the "before" friction was. If your playfield is the
same slickness as varathane--> it will play the same, if playfield is
dirty, --> it will play faster, if you play with a layer of motor oil
on your playfield --> it will play slower...
-Todd
Chris Munson <muncN...@ti.com> wrote in message news:<3F9FFFCB...@ti.com>...
> My nickel....
>
> My EBD has a clearcoated NOS field (Varathaned). It plays MUCH differently
> than an original; the ball has more spin, the playfield has less "grab", and it
> is very unforgiving. I know this because I have another EBD downstairs that I
> use as a test game, and I can play the snot out of it.
> Is this annoying? Yes - it has made me feel differently about the game.
> HOWEVER, by comparison, I have both a Centaur and Black Hole that have been
> retouched and cleared, and, while the Centaur plays "about the same", the Black
> Hole is GREATLY IMPROVED - the ball travel is much faster, and it is
> delightful.
> I think really that from the messages we are seeing here we can conclude NO
> generic "affect" of clearcoating - it "seems" to do different things to
> different games. ...
Jeremy
the factory mylar from all of my games. I think a squeaky-clean HUO
game with a good polish and wax job should be OK. Mirror balls are
good too :-) So far, no noticeable wear on any of my games
post-restoration, but they only get played a few times a week so go
figure. Mylar looks like crap in my opinion, and removing it is always
a risky proposition. Definitely DO the balldrops, maybe even the jet
bumpers!
-Jeremy
miracleman
the bottom half of the PF, but all the inserts are lifting. If I just
removed the mylar it would have typical Kiss-wear in no time. Plus the
upper part with no mylar has bad ball swirls or is worn to the wood. I
REALLY don't want to drop $500 on a new PF for it and go through the
hassle of a PF swap at this time, so I plan on trying to remove the
post-factory mylar, do some touch-ups, and do a full PF sheet covering
of mylar. The only thing a collector would do to this game in the
future would be a GOOD FabFan overlay or total PF replacement, so what
I do to it now doesn't matter.
Would I put mylar on if the PF was in good shape or NNS? No.
Spencer in Orlando
email is munged
remove REMOVE THIS or reply to
miracleman at bellsouth dot net
frenchy
> I used to think the same way, Why clear an NOS Diamondplate PF and the
> conclusion I finaly came to was this...
>
> Pinball manufactures didn't make especially shiny PF's not because it
> was bad, but because it cost more, you need somewhat more clear coat
> and you have to pay somebody more to buff and glaze for an hour to get
> that shine, 20 bucks for clear 10 bucks more labor. They saved $30
> (and in their eyes it's $30 here and $30 there) I don't blame them a
> bit, but that dosen't mean if a colector later wants to spend the
> extra time and money, it's bad, to the Contrary and that's why I would
> clear a PF even if it was NOS and Diamondplate.
I don't say it's bad...just not original. Since you could probably
buff a diamondplate out to look like pretty much like a new clearcoat
you aren't really doing anything obviously unoriginal like clearing an
NOS EM that only has non-mirrory laquer on it. The latter is akin
to taking a bone stock $70,000 Hemi Barracuda with 100 miles on it
that has slightly orange-peely paint from the factory and clearcoating
and polishing it so it is glassy and lasts forever. How many car
collectors would not frown upon that or say it didn't hurt the value?
....Frenchy
Grant Goodes
> I don't say it's bad...just not original. Since you could probably
> buff a diamondplate out to look like pretty much like a new clearcoat
> you aren't really doing anything obviously unoriginal like clearing an
> NOS EM that only has non-mirrory laquer on it. The latter is akin
> to taking a bone stock $70,000 Hemi Barracuda with 100 miles on it
> that has slightly orange-peely paint from the factory and clearcoating
> and polishing it so it is glassy and lasts forever. How many car
> collectors would not frown upon that or say it didn't hurt the value?
Well, I like to think that you can't really compare Pinball collectors
to most of the (virtually insane) collectors of other sorts, especially
car collectors. Most of us are more concerned with how the game plays
and (to a very slightly lesser degree) how it looks. Original-schmoriginal!
Did the game come with shitty cheap-ass plunger links? Replace 'em with
modern nylon ones that will never die. Did the backglass come from the
factory ready to flake and peel after 5- to 10-years? Krylon it and
re-touch. Is the cabinet gouged and scratched? Sand it down, re-prime,
make your own stencils, and re-paint. All of which would _horrify_ a
typical vintage car collector, but are rather typical of the things we
as a group do when restoring a pinball.
Bottom line: Some games may in fact have the game play adversely affected
by clearcoating the PF (may play too fast, or lack ball-controll, whatever).
But for the vast majority of games, a professionaly retouched PF with a
good clearcoat is the way to insure that the game will outlast its owner.
For me, restoring means making the game look and play great, not getting
my knickers in a twist if I have to use a phillips rather than a slot-head
screw somewhere. Sure, if I _have_ the original parts, and they are in
good condition, I will use them, but I'm not anal about it.
grant..
Chris
beneath. To remove it would destroy an otherwise very nice original game. I
AGREE on mylar removal, BUT only if the benefits outweigh obvious risks.
Chris
"Jeremy" <jdon...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ec02fd3.03103...@posting.google.com...
frenchy
<<< Original-schmoriginal!>>>>
> Did the game come with shitty cheap-ass plunger links? Replace 'em with
> modern nylon ones that will never die. Did the backglass come from the
> factory ready to flake and peel after 5- to 10-years? Krylon it and
> re-touch. Is the cabinet gouged and scratched? Sand it down, re-prime,
> make your own stencils, and re-paint. All of which would _horrify_ a
> typical vintage car collector>>>
No they wouldn't. My example was taking a excellent original factory
paint job on a car (i.e. a NOS EM playfield) and clearcoating it and
making it look too perfect. You are talking about repairing damage,
fixing dents, redoing rotten scratched-up paint. That's is EXACTLY
what car collectors do. Read my original post, I'd have no problem
clearcoating a repaired playfield. I did one myself.
But car collectors don't clearcoat perfectly nice original finishes
and make them look like a freakin' mirror. Not if they want to keep
the car looking original. The plunger links won't affect play and
can't really be seen. Some guy wants to put new higher-tech brake
shoes on his 49 Cadillac, big deal, nobody will see them and they will
last longer...Frenchy