Attack from Mars - Cannot get it to work

[Bill]

A couple of months ago I posted that I had a short under my playfield
and after replacing the fuses, I got a G 10 security chip error.
Replaced the security chip and another chip and got 'Check fuses, F101
and F109, J127 and opto 12V supply. Figured that I was in over my
head so I sent the driver and CPU boards to Clive for repair. There
was several things wrong and Clive sent them back after testing. Put
the boards back in and still getting 'Check fuses F101 and F109, J127
and opto 12V supply' error message. I checked all the connections,
they are in the right place. Any ideas what to try next? I attempted
to run the selenoid, flasher, GI tests but they do not work. Ran the
sound test and at least 3 of the messages do not work. Don't know
what to do next. Do you know of someone good in the St Paul/
MInneapolis area I should try to get out to my house to work on it?

Thanks, Bill

[Borygard]

Start by checking the voltages on the driver board test points.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
www.LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

"Bill" <bill...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f82e9c50-2fc6-436c...@g26g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...

[Bill]

On Dec 20, 12:47 pm, "Borygard" <boryg...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Start by checking the voltages on the driver board test points.
>
> --
> Rob Anthony
> Pinball Classicswww.LockWhenLit.com
> Quality Board Work - In Home Service
> 314-766-4587
>

> "Bill" <billdd...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

>
> news:f82e9c50-2fc6-436c...@g26g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> >A couple of months ago I posted that I had a short under my playfield
> > and after replacing the fuses, I got a G 10 security chip error.
> > Replaced the security chip and another chip and got 'Check fuses, F101
> > and F109, J127 and opto 12V supply.  Figured that I was in over my
> > head so I sent the driver and CPU boards to Clive for repair.  There
> > was several things wrong and Clive sent them back after testing.  Put
> > the boards back in and still getting 'Check fuses F101 and F109, J127
> > and opto 12V supply' error message.  I checked all the connections,
> > they are in the right place.  Any ideas what to try next?  I attempted
> > to run the selenoid, flasher, GI tests but they do not work.  Ran the
> > sound test and at least 3 of the messages do not work.  Don't know
> > what to do next.  Do you know of someone good in the St Paul/
> > MInneapolis area I should try to get out to my house to work on it?
>

> > Thanks, Bill- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Can you tell me how to do the tests?
Bill

[IMMark]

Hi Bill
I assume you have a DMM (digital multi meter)?
If so, black wire to ground, red to each test point. Set meter to dc
voltage.

Here is a list of TP's and voltages. It is from Clay's site, a great
resource in case you have seen it?
Mark

WPC-95 Driver Board LEDs, Test Points (TP), and Fuses.
For reference, TP107 is ground.

LED100/TP100: +12 volts DC regulated. Should be always ON. If off,
check fuses F101 and F106 (or diodes D11-D14 and capacitors C11, C12).
If fuse F101 has failed, this is often caused by a bad CPU board chip
U20 (see the switch matrix section for more details). Though not
likely to fail, there is also a voltage regulator LM7812 at Q2, and
two 1N4004 diodes at D1 and D2. If fuse F101 has failed, suspect the
voltage regulator Q2. The AC Power originates at connector J129 pins
6,7 and 4,5. It then goes through fuse F106, diodes D11-D14,
capacitors C12,C11, LED102/TP102 (18 volts DC), diodes D1-D2, voltage
rectifier Q2, fuse F101, LED100/TP100 (12 volts DC), then to connector
J101 pins 1,2.
LED101/TP101: +5 volts DC digital. Should be always ON. If off, game
will not boot. Check fuse F105 (or diodes D7-D10 and capacitor C9).
Though not likely to fail, there is also a voltage regulator LM317 at
Q1, a LM339 chip at U1, and two 1N4004 diodes at D23 and D24. The AC
Power originates at connector J129 pins 1 and 2. It then goes through
fuse F105, diodes D7-D10, capacitor C9, voltage rectifier Q1, LED101/
TP101 (5 volts DC), then to connectors J101 pins 3 and 4, J138 pin 4,
J139 pin 4, J140 pin4, J141 pin 4.
LED102/TP102: +18 volts DC lamps. Normally ON (can flicker with
playfield lamps). If off, check fuse F106 (or diodes D11-D14 and
capacitors C11, C12). The AC Power originates at connector J129 pins
6,7 and 4,5. It then goes through fuse F106, diodes D11-D14,
capacitors C12,C11, LED102/TP102 (18 volts DC), diodes D1-D2, voltage
rectifier Q2, fuse F101, LED100/TP100 (12 volts DC), then to connector
J101 pins 1,2.
LED103/TP103: +12 volts DC un-regulated for opto lights, motors, etc.
Should be always ON. If off, check fuse F109 (or diodes D3-D6 and
capacitor C8). The AC Power originates at connector J127 pins 1,2 and
3,5. It then goes through fuse F109, diodes D3-D6, capacitors C8,
LED103/TP103 (12 volts DC), then to connectors J138 pin 2, J139 pin 2,
J140 pin 2, J141 pin 2.
LED104/TP104: +20 volts DC flashlamps. Normally ON. This LED fades off
when the coin door is opened. If off, check coin door and fuse F107
(or diodes D15-D18 and capacitor C10). The AC Power originates at
connector J128 pins 1,2 and 3,4. It then goes through fuse F107,
diodes D15-D18, capacitors C10, LED104/TP104 (20 volts DC), then to
connectors J133 pin 5 and 6, J134 pin 5.
LED105/TP105: +50 volts DC coils. Normally ON. This LED fades off when
the coin door is opened. If off, check coin door and fuse F108 (or
diodes D19-D22 and capacitor C22). The AC Power originates at
connector J128 pins 8,9 and 5,6. It then goes through fuse F108,
diodes D19-D22, capacitors C22, LED105/TP105 (50-70 volts DC), fuses
F102, F103, F104, then to connectors J134 pins 1,2,3, J135 pins 1,2,3.

[Lloyd Olson]

I'd call Craig Sanders. 651-335-9552 . He worked at Lieberman's for years
and is the best there is at pinball and video games. Let me know if you need
more help. LTG :)

"Bill" <bill...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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[Bill]

> F102, F103, F104, then to connectors J134 pins 1,2,3, J135 pins 1,2,3.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the info. I have a DMM but my electrical skills are
limited. Thats why I sent the boards to Clive. I'll try to contact
him to see what he thinks.

Thanks again,
Bill

[Lloyd Olson]

If you want to drag your game over here, I'll learn ya. LTG :)

"Lloyd Olson" <l...@skypoint.com> wrote in message
news:46idnV_nufoG5bPW...@skypoint.com...

[mnpinball]

John Ross of Pinball Plus and Tim Nabours of Nabours Novelty make
house calls in the metro area. They also do board repairs and have
games on hand to test them in. Both are fantastic to deal with and
have many years of experience.

www.pinballplus.com

www.pinballplace.com

-Jason

[Pinball Plus]

Thanks for the kind words Jason.

Im pretty backed up with calls and service but would like to help
if I can . I have an AFM in the store currently and could do tests.
Nabours is platinum as well as Craig too. Craig has 30+ years in the
industry. . spoke with him to day and the Xmas rush is on! Lots of
last minute games to fix and so little time (and energy too :) Last
week was I pulling into driveways at 11:30 pm to start a service call.
People didnt care what time I arrived they just want the game working
for Xmas. Shoot me a call Bill at 651-647-5811 if you can . JR

[Jack James]

Have you tried removing all the playfield switches from the CPU and
booting ? A shorted playfield switch can cause these issues.

[Sonic]

I'm with Jack, because this all may be a case of whatever killed the
boards in the first place, still exists (shorted switch, etc.), and
I'm afraid that your boards are bad again...(I'll bet it)....