FAQ - Any Help?
Allan Wright
readers of e.g.m to fill it out. Step up and be accounted for!
Below my .sig is what I have so far:
Thanks
Allan Wright
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Allan Wright Jr. | Pole-Vaulters Get a Natural High! | GO Celtics!
University of New Hampshire +--------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center | You keep using that word. I do not think it means
Internet: A...@UNH.EDU | what you think it means. -The Princess Bride
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Rec.Games.Miniatures FAQ
I. Introduction
Rec.Games.Miniatures is an unmoderated newsgroup formed for the
discussion of topics reladed to games involving miniatures figures.
Including historical, science fiction and fantasy games. Any
discussions relating to gaming with miniature figures are welcome!
This FAQ is posted on a montly basis and has been constructed by
the readers of Rec.Games.Miniatures. It is maintained by Allan Wright
a...@unh.edu. Comments or additions can be sent there.
II. Outline
This FAQ contains the following information divided up into sections.
I. Introduction
II. Outline
III. Painting
A. Types of Paint
1. Oil based
2. Water soluable
B. Applying Paint
1. General Advice
2. Dry Brushing
3. Washes
4. Painting Eyes
C. Removing Paint
IV. Figures
A. Popular Scales
B. Manufacturers
C. Making Them
1. Making Originals
2. Casting Figures
V. Rules
VI. Reference Materials
A. Publications
B. Other Materials
VII. Things to be added
VIII. Credits
III. Painting Figures
A. Types of Paint
There are two basic types of paint: oil based and water soluable.
Within these two major groups there are several sub classes.
1. Oil based
Oil based paints are mainly available in two forms: Artists oils
(sold in tubes for oil painting) and enamels. Artists oils are claimes
by some to be the most controllable and best covering paints
available. Unfortunately for painting miniatures they must be thinned
and mixed with a drying agent (japan drier) and even then take very
long to dry before the next color can be applied.
Enamels come in a wide range of pre-mixed colors and are
manufactured my several companies. Testors, pactra and Humbrol are
some of the major brand names. Enamels are usually prefered for
airbrushing as they tend not to clog nosels as easilly as other
paints. They allow for good coverage and allow for very brilliant
colors. Enamels must be thinned with oil based thinners and brushes
must be cleaned with solvents. This may be a concern if small children
are going to have access to your paints.
2. Water soluable
There are several brands of acrylic paints made specificly for
models or figures. Testors, Howard Hues and Poly S are some major
brands. They clean up with water, contain little or no solvents and
come in a variety of pre-mixed colors. Some brands tend to be a little
pastel or 'chalky' so try a few colors out before you buy many bottles
of any particular brand. These tend to be the fastest drying paints
and allow for rapid re-coating of colors.
Artists acrylics are usually less expensive and come in larger
quantities. They can usually be found at arts and crafts stores. They
tend to be thicker in texture than other paints and can hide detail in
figures if not thinned. This thickness, however, makes them good for
drybrushing. Some brands tend to be fairly transparent when thinned
appropriately for painting figures. This can be a drawback or, if used
as washes, a benefit.
There is a brand of paints designed for plastic models made by
Tymia. These have some solvents in them but are water soluable. Some
readers have reccomended against using them but I have found that the
dransparent colors (like smoke) are good for making washes.
B. Applying Paint
1. General Advice
Always clean figures well before painting. Both lead and plastic
figures have mold release agents on them that will inhibit the paint
from adhering to the figure. Figures should then be primed. There are
two schools of thought here. Some painters prime with light colors
(white, light grey) to allow for better coverage of light colors.
Others prime in dark colors (black, dark brown) so recessed areas may
be left black which allows for a nice effect. Some also prime black,
dry brush over this with white and them paint. This allows for the
best of both systems.
Most painters paint figures unsing an assembly line system,
painting one section of detail on each figure at a time then changing
to the next section. Start with the hardest areas to reach first
working your way out. When beginning, start with a small number of
figures (5 - 10) at a time. Also some people find it helps to do the
faces early in the painting process. This seems to give the figures
more 'personality' and makes painting seem to go faster.
2. Dry Brushing
Dry brushing is a technique where a darker than desired base coat
of color is applied, and then a lighter coat is 'dry brushed' over it
to reveal the detail in the figure. This is done by loading the brush
with paint and then rubbing it on a cloth or paper towel until almost
all of the paint is gone. The brush is then drawn over the surface
leaving paint only on the raised portions of the figure. This produces
pronounced highlights on the high points and shadows on the low
points.
3. Washes
Washes are thin solutions of paint. The main portion would be water
(for water based paints) or laquer (for oils). Once a figure is
painted the solution (or wash) is applied liberally over the figure.
When it dries areas that were recesses will have more pigment than
raised areas thus giving a shadowed effect.
4. Painting Eyes
I paint eyes on 25mm (and 15mm officers, standard bearers, etc)
with a technique taught to me by a friend. I'll try to describe it
here in ASCII. It sounds like it takes a lot of steps, but I find it
faster than most methods and produces EXCELLENT results.
The key is to realixe EYES AREN'T ROUND. Look at someone - the
white and colored part of their eye is kind of a flat sided oval.
Here's how to paint an eye that shape.
1. Fill the eye socket with white. I use an OOO brush - one stroke
horizontally across each socket - be sloppy - it's OK.
2. Paint the middlle of the eye, Black, Dark brown or Dark blue - your
choice. Paint a verticle stripe down the center of the eye - taking up
the middle third of the eye socket - don't worry about going over the
top/bottom edges. Again I use an OOO brush. In both let the brush
'fan out'
3. Eyebrow - paint with hair color of your choice. paint the eyebrow on
the crown of the eye socket in a slightly cresent shape - cover the
white and black from 1 & 2.
4. Under eye - use tan or slightly darkened skin color (under the eye is
usually darker or shadowed.) cover the whide and black from 1 & 2 with
a slightly cressent stroke.
Once you do a few eyes this way you'll see the amazing results.
Also, none of these strokes is painfull (like trying to place a pupil
in the center of an eye is) Once practiced you can go through a unit
doing these eyes in very little time. I finish faces off with a dab of
blush flesh on each cheak and a moustache or lips. I find it gives the
faces a real 3-D look.
C. Removing Paint
Paint can be removed using conventional paint removing solvents.
Liquid types seem best for figures as pastes are difficult to get into
small crevices on figures. They work fast and if stored are re-usable.
The drawback is the caustic nature of these chemicals as well as the
potential harm to the environment they have. Many of these will also
disolve plastic figures!
Pine cleaners (like pine-sol) will remove almost all paint from
figures if the figures are left overnight. Some light scrubbing or
repeated soakings will remove stubborn paint. This is also save for
plastic figures.
IV. Figures
A. Popular Scales
All figure scales are in millimeters and are measured from a foot
figure's eyes to the ground. This is done because headgear varries and
would distort figure scale if took into account.
The figure scales that are available for historical miniatures are:
54mm - Not used for gaming much - mostly collectibles.
30mm - Large figures for skirmish typ games.
25mm - Very popular - all periods available
20mm - Popular for WWI + II as it closely matches 1/72 scale tank
models.
15mm - Wery popular - used for all periods. Good for larger numbers
of figures - i.e. Napoleonics, 7 Year's war. Also armor
models available.
10mm - Less popular - WWI + II armor, others available
6mm - Sold in strips rarhet than by the figure - Ancients,
Napoleonics and others available.
The figure scales that are available for Sci-Fi / Fantasy miniatures
are:
(* AEW - I need help here as I know nothing about these ranges *)
B. Manufacturers (In aphabetical order)
Dixon
(Need Address)
Essex
(Need Johnson Hood's Address)
Falcon Miniatures
(Need Address)
Fri-Corps
(Need Address)
Frontier
(Available from Modeler's Mart)
Milton Bradley
(Need Address)
Minifigs
(Need Address)
(* AW - many missing - this is just a start off the top of my head *)
C. Making Them
Figures can be made yourself instead of purchasing them. This
requires two main steps, making an original (sometimes called master
or dolly) and replicating it by casting the figure in a mold.
1. Making Originals
Use fairly generic hardware-store two color epoxy ribbon (yellow & blue).
I recommend against a similar product by Devcon (I think) which is white
and black - it's too grainy and is less durable. Also have some stiff wire
(for cores of weapons) and if possible a skeleton figure in a similar pose.
Glob bits of the putty onto the skeleton (stronger than putty alone) and
shape with dental tools, pins, whatever. Work a bit at a time. Do the legs,
then a kilt, and so on.
2. Casting Figures
V. Rules
VI. Reference Materials
There is a phenominal amount of information relating to gaming
with miniature figures, especially when it comes to historical
wargaming. Listed here are some materials made ESPECIALLY for the hobby.
A. Periodicals (listed Alphabeticly)
Miniature Wargames
MWAN (Midwest Wargamers Association Newsletter)
Wargames Illustrated
B. Other materials
Osprey Publications - Several series of book pertainting to
millitary history. These books are designes especially for miniature
wargamers as they contain detailed painting information and color
plates.
VII. Things to be added
The following topics need attention. I would appreciate anyone
willing to offer text on these subjects please mail it to:
a...@unh.edu. Please mention the FAQ in the subject header.
Some information of casting(?? maybe)
Milton Bradleys address
Where to get WH40K chapter listings (This is posted quite a lot)
Dangers of lead
Proper headers for messages
VIII. Credits
Many thanks to all who helped to create this FAQ with their
information from posts or E-mail directly to me. Special thanks to
primary contributors:
GAR...@UTKVX.UTCC.UTK.EDU (Shawn Garbett)
MDE...@holonet.net
You might want to add a section describing various organizations for
gamers; cons, etc. I would suggest including information on the Society
of Ancients, US Pike & Shot Federation, HMGS, etc., their respective
publications (_The_Reiter_, the Arquebusier, etc.)
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