Painting tips for Space Hulk?
M D Cox
as a dead person's (i.e. they suck).
Any simple tips to paint the original plastic miniatures that come with the
game?
Thanks!
Mike
--
Michael Cox Work: mc...@access.digex.net
A1200/120 w/1230XA 50/50/4 = SPEED! Play: aj...@Cleveland.FreeNet.EDU
For info on the AMOS Mailing List, contact me!
For AMOS Pro news, finger mc...@access.digex.net
Joseph Goodman
> as a dead person's (i.e. they suck).
>
> Any simple tips to paint the original plastic miniatures that come with the
> game?
Those plastic things that come with the game are miserable minis. The
stealers aren't that bad, but the terms suck. My advice would be to
practice for a while on the included minis until you've painted enough to
get a general feel for how to paint, then buy some metal minis and do some
real painting. Something I've seen a lot of novice painters do which you
should try not to -- DON'T file off detail. If a mini is too detailed for
you to paint well, try your best. It may end up looking bad, but you'll
learn a lot more than if you had just filed it off.
--
Joseph Goodman...jgoodma1@cc.swarthmore.edu
Zargon the Evil Wizard
>I am a fanatical Space Hulk player but my artistic talents are as cultivated
>as a dead person's (i.e. they suck).
>
>Any simple tips to paint the original plastic miniatures that come with the
>game?
The plastic terminators in SH hold my record for fastest single painted
miniature: 42 minutes including the base sand. What I did was:
[these instructions are for Ultramarines]
1. Spraypaint white
2. Paint with a mid-range blue (RP 'true blue')
3. Heavily drybrush top surfaces with a light blue (RP 'sky blue')
4. Paint a dark blue (Citadel 'moody blue?' no label...) into the
recessed areas: the vents on the back, the hollows above the head,
where the gloves (on both hands) meet the fingers, under the belt
5. Paint the buttons, bolter, chestplate, eyes and belt buckle black
6. Drybrush silver onto the bolter and the feathers on the chest-
plate eagle
7. Paint the buttons silver or gold. Paint the rings around the bolter
barrel, a line along the bottom of the bolter magazine, and the
line along the top of the eagle's wings gold.
8. Paint the shoulder pads with a solid squad color (red, black, etc.)
9. Paint the modeled-on borders of the shoulder-pads and shin-guards
white. Paint the leg support I-beam thingies white.
10. Paint the eyes red (RP 'red').
11. Paint the top of the base with glue. Dunk in sand and let dry.
12. Paint the sanded area green (3:4 dilution of Citadel 'Goblin Green')
and let dry.
13. Drybrush the top of the base yellow. (RP 'Yellow')
14. Paint the sides of the base black.
15. Apply decals.
From a distance what really makes the model stand out are the white
areas; if you just give it a base blue, paint the gun and chestplate
black, put squad colors on the shoulderpads and then be neat about
the white areas, and just paint the entire base black to make the
model stand out, it should look fine.
The 'stealers are much tougher; I couldn't get them to look right
without using some advanced tricks (washes + blending) but if you're
bound and determined to paint them, I'd recommend painting them
all-over dark blue, painting the largest non-carapace areas purple
(head, tail, big area on back), then painting the claws, tongue and
'warts' white. Finally paint over the white tongue with bright red.
The plastic stealer is very nice, its just so darned HARD to paint.
I don't care what your holy book says, keeping >> Bill Gilliland
your light under a bushel is the only polite <<
thing to do in mixed company. -Nick Fitch >> ska...@u.washington.edu
SillyWiz
>In article <2dsp0h$g...@news1.digex.net>, M D Cox <mc...@access.digex.net> wrote:
>>I am a fanatical Space Hulk player but my artistic talents are as cultivated
>>as a dead person's (i.e. they suck).
>without using some advanced tricks (washes + blending) but if you're
>bound and determined to paint them, I'd recommend painting them
>all-over dark blue, painting the largest non-carapace areas purple
>(head, tail, big area on back), then painting the claws, tongue and
>'warts' white. Finally paint over the white tongue with bright red.
>The plastic stealer is very nice, its just so darned HARD to paint.
What I do is:
Moody blue, highlight with Electric Blue (? I think it is anyhow ) then
drybrushed with space wolf grey.
The "flesh" areas are done in Worm Purple, drybrushed with "Tittilating Pink"
(sp ?!?! :-)
Painting the eyes is a matter of white, yellow and the mouth by white,red. The
claws are white with bleached bone at the bases.
The basing takes the form of lots of bits of sprue and card glued on and
sprayed balck with the rest of the figure. Drybrush with any and all of:
Gunmetal,Silver,Snakebite Leather,Brown,Tin Bitzs
Occaisionally pick out some sorts of details -- labels on "pipes", logos on
the card "plates" etc, in wite followed by yellows & reds on top.
Character models tend to be much more detailed the the line troops 'cos there
'undreds of the little buggers to do..
I even based all the doors for my copies of Hulk. Does take just a bit of
time..:-)
<no, I do have a life, well-- I'll get one tomorrow..or some day soon. Really!>
-- the SillyWiz --
-------------------------------------+--------------------------------------
The University of Warwick cares little | It is now wise to turn off your
for my opinions the rest of the time so| Macintosh.
it can't have these if it wants them. | (RESTART)
-------------------------------------+--------------------------------------
Keith Lucas ---- sill...@dcs.warwick.ac.uk , cs...@csv.warwick.ac.uk
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Murdock Kulvicki
writes:
I really enjoy playing Space Hulk, and I started my miniature
painting there. As far as
tips go, this is what I suggest:
1) For primer, you can use the expensive kind specifically for
miniatures, but I've found that plain Krylon dry-wall primer works very
well for a plain white base. Spray on very lightly, so it doesn't cake.
You may have to use several coats.
2) In paints, I suggest acrylics. They're water-soluble until
dry, easier to fix mistakes (usually trying to fix mistakes just makes
them bigger. :) ), and easy to clean up, just use water on brushes, drop
clothes, etc...
3) Usually start with simple base colors, covering general areas
of the same color. For some people, this is enough, but for me, it turns
out kind of bland.
4) I go on to do some shading. Diluting the acrylics with water
and painting over areas, allowing it to fall into the cracks. I usually
use a darker shade of the base color to shade.
5) I also do some dry-brushing (If I'm in the mood). Dip the
brush in paint and wipe it just about clean on a cloth. Lightly brush
over details, ridges,edges and just about anything that sticks up. It may
not seem like anything is happening at the time, but you'll probably be
able to tell the difference when you compare with another, undry-brushed
miniature.
6) For finishers, I just use a plain finishing spray for acrylics
found in most hobby and craft stores. Spray on the same way as the
primer, but one coat is usually all that is needed.
Your're going to need to let the miniature dry between all of these steps,
so I usually paint 2 or 3 at a time. This is just what I do. Experiment
and try things on your own, you may find a style that is better for you.
Check out the FAQ on painting, it should help alot. Have fun and good
luck!
Mike
M D Cox
I hope to be giving it a good round of experimenting when the holidays start.
Now, for a couple of questions:
1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it falling
over?
3. Any suggestions as for what type, size, brand of brush to use for
details, cracks, large parts, etc.??
4. Where is the FAQ that lists painting tips?
5. Why does GW always require you to paint them before playing in one of
their games? Can't I just be the Blue Demon marines?!?!?!?!?! :)
Thanks again to those who posted and emailed!
Zargon the Evil Wizard
M D Cox <mc...@access2.digex.net> wrote:
>First, thanks to everyone for the tips and suggestions. It sounds easy and
>I hope to be giving it a good round of experimenting when the holidays start.
>
>Now, for a couple of questions:
>
>1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
Yes. What I do is take an old paint jar (About the only thing Polly-S
paints are good for are their lovely glass pots and nice flat METAL lids)
and put a blob of poster putty ("Fun-Tak" "Blu-Tack") on there, then stick
the based model to the poster putty.
>2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
>base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
>have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it falling
>over?
My favorite way to do this is to use a piece of cardboard. Set the
minis on the board, then spray away. (you don't need them on paint pots
for this -- the base will hold them up fine)
>3. Any suggestions as for what type, size, brand of brush to use for
>details, cracks, large parts, etc.??
Two words: Red Sable. These are not only much nicer, they last longer.
As for brush size, the size I use varies with the area. Small items get
00 or 000, while big areas get a 1. I rarely use 2 or 3 except for
basecoating and drybrushing. When I do, its for base-colors on areas
such as cloaks.
>4. Where is the FAQ that lists painting tips?
I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you.
>5. Why does GW always require you to paint them before playing in one of
>their games? Can't I just be the Blue Demon marines?!?!?!?!?! :)
Several reasons I can come up with, although never having been to a
GW store...
1. To tell your Blue Demon marines apart from that other person's
Blue Demon marines, and that guys over there, and theirs, and...
2. It looks nicer.
3. So you can tell things like squads apart, esp. differently-equipped
squads.
4. To sell paint.
Peter Godman
>First, thanks to everyone for the tips and suggestions. It sounds easy and
>I hope to be giving it a good round of experimenting when the holidays start.
>
>Now, for a couple of questions:
>
>1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
It makes them easyer to hold if you do.
>
>2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
>base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
>have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it
> falling
>over?
Try a small jar or old paint pot.
>
>3. Any suggestions as for what type, size, brand of brush to use for
>details, cracks, large parts, etc.??
I only use 00 and 000 brushes for everthing except bry-brushing.
>
>4. Where is the FAQ that lists painting tips?
No Idear.
>5. Why does GW always require you to paint them before playing in one of
>their games? Can't I just be the Blue Demon marines?!?!?!?!?! :)
I thinck it becouse it looks better to any one how walkes into the shop.
--
Sorry if I have repeated anthing you all ready know, but I have only just found the
news group so I didn't see the ariginal articale.
Bye
Peter
Godman
Matteson
>Now, for a couple of questions:
>
>1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
that I know paint plastic minis while they're still on the sprue. But I
have always found it easier to handle based miniatures.
>2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
>base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
>have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it falling
>over?
Well, you could put based miniatures in a box that has been turned on its side
then spray them without even touching them. Or if for some reason you
MUST hold the mini while spraying, you could either wear a rubber dishwashing
glove, or glue the miniature to the top of a bottle and hold the bottle while
priming.
>3. Any suggestions as for what type, size, brand of brush to use for
>details, cracks, large parts, etc.??
The exact brand usually doesn't matter as long as you are using high quality
brushes. Yeah, they're expensive, but they give the best results. I use
mainly Floquil, Ral Partha, and Armorey brushes. Use larger brushes for
large areas and smaller brushes for small areas, cracks, and details.
>4. Where is the FAQ that lists painting tips?
Hmm...I'm not sure but it should be posted here every once and a while. It's
VERY informative. (Thanx, Britt, if you're reading this) B-)
>5. Why does GW always require you to paint them before playing in one of
>their games? Can't I just be the Blue Demon marines?!?!?!?!?! :)
Because they want you to buy their paints, brushes, and primer, of course.B-)
Other reasons include:
to promote the painting hobby
so that it's easier to distinguish between opposing forces
and so that if someone "off the street" walks in they'll see you playing with
painted miniatures. It makes the games seem more interesting, and the more
interesting the games seem the more likely that Games Workshop will make
money from people buying them up.
>Thanks again to those who posted and emailed!
>
>Mike
>--
>Michael Cox Work: mc...@access.digex.net
>A1200/120 w/1230XA 50/50/4 = SPEED! Play: aj...@Cleveland.FreeNet.EDU
> For info on the AMOS Mailing List, contact me!
> For AMOS Pro news, finger mc...@access.digex.net
Hope I've helped.
_____________________________
MATTESON
st93...@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu
Newsgroups: rec.games.miniatures
Subject: Re: Painting tips for Space Hulk?
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M D Cox
> I only use 00 and 000 brushes for everthing except bry-brushing.
> Sorry if I have repeated anthing you all ready know, but I have only just found the
> news group so I didn't see the ariginal articale.
No problems, to me! Any tips are appreciated so that I can do some
experimental painting and see what works best for me!
Another Question:
Brand of paints? I know there is GW's, Ral Partha's, etc, but they do tend to
be expensive for such a small amount. Are there any regular paint brands that
I should look for at a craft/artist shop?
Also, I don't suppose the paint makers have a standard code that determines the
colors? Things like Moody Blue sounds like more of a brand name than the
actual color! :)
SillyWiz
>I hope to be giving it a good round of experimenting when the holidays start.
>
>Now, for a couple of questions:
>
>1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
I do. Mainly cos I like to model & paint the bases and the paint will wear off
your hands after a couple of days from holding the base..
>2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
>base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
>have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it falling
>over?
The paint will wear off your hands after a couple of days. Seriously.. I put em on a lump of newspaper & sprey 'em careful like :-)
>3. Any suggestions as for what type, size, brand of brush to use for
>details, cracks, large parts, etc.??
Big Brush == a 1 or a 2. Slap the base coat on with this, wash with it & when
it's old & crap, drybrush with it.
Little Brush == 0 or less. If you're a maniac like me, applying the little
blips of highlight to the eyes requires about a 000 brush.
>4. Where is the FAQ that lists painting tips?
Um .. dunno. I have no idea whats happened to the miniatures suppliers FAQ
either :-) .. [ I'll post it when I have a chance to fix it. I've had final
year project work to do recently ]
>5. Why does GW always require you to paint them before playing in one of
>their games? Can't I just be the Blue Demon marines?!?!?!?!?! :)
1 -- It helps to tell the sides apart.
2 -- It helps to sell miniatures, paint, painting guides.
3 -- It means your paint schemes can be outdated so you have to get more minis.
As an aside, there is a lot of pleasure to be obtained from painting the damn
things and then using your beautifully coloured troops to hammer someone elses
army.
Also you can give your troops battle honours like the Sergeant of mine who has
gained a couple of red segments to his srmour to celebrate the fact that
during a recent beer'n'pretzels 40K game, he blatted a horde of Eldar.
Ed Sharpe
>Oil-based acrylics: Heard of em, never seen em, mostly for the Turpentine
>reason and (minor tip) a bad habit I have; After rinsing the old paint out,
>I lick the tip of the brush to bring it to a point (I also moisten my
>blending brush this way). This gets excellent results, but knowing a
>little bit about pigment composition (transition metals, primarily, such
>as Lead Iodide) I'm wary about ingesting any paint. The same goes for
>the solvent used for oil-based paints.
Licking your brushes should be NEVER done, even with acrylics!!
The acrylics that I use in some of the colors contain heavy metals like
cadmium! Very bad for your health.
>*laugh* there are no names for colors. Go look at the paint shades at
Yes there are names for colors and shades of colors, (ie. COBALT BLUE does
refere to a paticular shade of blue/purple) but each manufacture's
color will be a little different than everyother manufacture. Howvever
citadels color names are not standard, (nor do i beleive are most of ral
partha and polly s.)
PS: I use Liquedtex (sp?) tube acrylics. They are expensize (from $2.50 to
$10.00 a tube), but last forever. I use then to wash, shade, blend, and
drybrush. My brush sizes run from a old brush with a single hair on it
to size 8! And everything inbetween.
//
// esh...@hsc.usc.edu
//
Zargon the Evil Wizard
>Peter Godman (pe...@irondriv.demon.co.uk) chiseled:
>> I only use 00 and 000 brushes for everthing except bry-brushing.
>What do you use for dry-brushing?
I use either 2 and 3 (for big areas like cloaks) or 0 (for small areas
such as pouches). On really small areas I just leave 'em unshaded
or blend, both of which are tidier than drybrushing.
>
>Another Question:
>
>Brand of paints? I know there is GW's, Ral Partha's, etc, but they do tend to
>be expensive for such a small amount. Are there any regular paint brands that
>I should look for at a craft/artist shop?
Oil-based enamels (e.g. testors) Take forever to dry, need smelly
turpentine solvent, tend to not flow as easily, overcoats lift base-
coats. In a word; Bleeeeechh.
Oil-based acrylics: Heard of em, never seen em, mostly for the Turpentine
reason and (minor tip) a bad habit I have; After rinsing the old paint out,
I lick the tip of the brush to bring it to a point (I also moisten my
blending brush this way). This gets excellent results, but knowing a
little bit about pigment composition (transition metals, primarily, such
as Lead Iodide) I'm wary about ingesting any paint. The same goes for
the solvent used for oil-based paints.
Acrylics: These are what I use. They dry quickly and don't re-solvate
when painted over.
Most store-bought painters acrylics: These are formulated for applying
to canvas with a large brush; they are thick and cover extremely well.
They really are unsuited for miniatures work, though, and while they're
cheaper you really don't use that much painting models. The colors I
use most I only go through a 1-oz pot ever couple months.
Airbrush acrylics (badger): I use these with an airbrush (great for
base-coloring Space Marine models which wind up mostly one color anyway,
as well as large terrain pieces) and they are THIN. Too thin, almost,
to apply with a brush.
Polly S: These are the most expensive, and my least favorite. They
dry very fast, making it hard to get the brush from the pot to the model
before it dries. I gave up on these two years ago, and just use the
pots as painting bases for models.
Ral Partha: These are thicker than Citadel, and cover much better.
They are excellent for drybrushing, but they tend to be a bit grainy,
which makes it hard to get a good surface finish (essential for doing
a good job).
Citadel: I (and many other people) have found these paints to be very
thin. I discovered why, eventually: they are not just formulated for
miniatures, they are formulated for _blending_ on miniatures. With a
couple coats you can get a solid finish, one that is very smooth and
can be over-painted repeatedly without either caking up or getting
grainy. However, this makes them unsuitable for drybrushing, unless
you put a drop on your palette and let it partially dry out. They also
require a little more skill to get good results.
I use RP and Cit onl, with the ratio of Cit:RP increasing as the
quality I'm aiming at increases. For rank and file, RP works great.
For characters I use Citadel paints almost exclusively.
>Also, I don't suppose the paint makers have a standard code that determines the
>colors? Things like Moody Blue sounds like more of a brand name than the
>actual color! :)
*laugh* there are no names for colors. Go look at the paint shades at
a hardware store. The only things that count are the amounts of which
pigments get added to the base color.
DAN EVANS
> Now, for a couple of questions:
>
> 1. Should I paint them while on their base or not?
>
> 2. Whether or not I keep them on their base while painting them with the
> base white as suggested, how do I hold them without spray painting my hand? I
> have thought of a pole or stick, but then how do I let it dry without it falling
> over?
> --
> Michael Cox Work: mc...@access.digex.net
> A1200/120 w/1230XA 50/50/4 = SPEED! Play: aj...@Cleveland.FreeNet.EDU
> For info on the AMOS Mailing List, contact me!
> For AMOS Pro news, finger mc...@access.digex.net
What I do is grab the slot under the marine's feet with a clothespin,
and use the clothespin as a handle while painting.
For spray- priming, I place the two "legs" of the clothespin over the
edge of a cardboard box to stand the miniatures up. (of course I spread
newspaper around since I'll be spraying outside the box)
On the other hand, I've been painting some marines I bought used, who
are already glued to their bases, and it's been no great hardship to paint it
that way. I just paint the base last.
Dan
John Guzzardo
>>
>Brand of paints? I know there is GW's, Ral Partha's, etc, but they do tend to
>be expensive for such a small amount. Are there any regular paint brands that
>I should look for at a craft/artist shop?
>>Also, I don't suppose the paint makers have a standard code that determines
the
>colors? Things like Moody Blue sounds like more of a brand name than the
>actual color! :)
>
.) TESTORS! Best for your money. You can't get them to be as bright as GW
paints, but I you like a duller (and in my opinion) more realistic-less
cartoony look, Testors gets the job done.
Peter Godman
>Peter Godman (pe...@irondriv.demon.co.uk) chiseled:
>> I only use 00 and 000 brushes for everthing except bry-brushing.
>What do you use for dry-brushing?
I don't know what size it as it is only a cheap brush a got of my little sister.
It dosen't realy matter as it is always geting finer
>
>> Sorry if I have repeated anthing you all ready know, but I have only just
> found the
>> news group so I didn't see the ariginal articale.
>No problems, to me! Any tips are appreciated so that I can do some
>experimental painting and see what works best for me!
>
>Another Question:
>
>Brand of paints? I know there is GW's, Ral Partha's, etc, but they do tend to
>be expensive for such a small amount. Are there any regular paint brands that
>I should look for at a craft/artist shop?
I only use GW paints as they are easy to get.
>
>Also, I don't suppose the paint makers have a standard code that determines the
>colors? Things like Moody Blue sounds like more of a brand name than the
>actual color! :)
Not that I know of but I'm shore an art shop would know.
--
Peter
Godman
Britt Klein
are always available from me by email request (though you'll get a copy of
the last-post, as I'm doing some major renovations and the `current' is
pretty much unintelligible at this time).
- Britt
(To be *really* official, send FAQ requests to br...@python.wais.com, but
email to tie...@agora.rain.com or tie...@glia.biostr.washington.edu will
always be promptly replied to.)
--
"These are our spices; they're a secret."