[PAINTING] Anybody tried FolkArt brand paints?
Jamie Smith
because I wasn't about to use my Citadel stuff up. Then kind of on a whim,
I painted some of my plastics with the stuff.
They turned out looking pretty sharp. They also have a whole whack of
colours available. When I was in the store, they had a rack that went from
the floor to about my chest, about 2 feet wide, and another smaller one
beside it.
And the stuff costs about 1/8th the cost of Citadel. It comes in 2oz (59mL)
containers. Comparing that to the 13mL of the new Citadel stuff, there's
four times as much, and the FolkArt stuff is about $1.75 CDN, compared to
$3.25 CDN at GW.
Mind you, I don't think my Dwarfs are too keen at being painted with
"Periwinkle Blue" and "Earthenware" instead of "Enchanted Blue" and
"Snakebite Leather", but at least they don't have to submit to "Goblin
Green" when "Grass Green" is available.
js:)
"Malcolm solves his problems with a chainsaw--
And he never has the same problem twice"
John L. Martin
Jamie Smith wrote in message <6o2msn$r83$1...@usenet46.supernews.com>...
>I picked up this stuff at Lewiscraft, mostly just to work on some scenery,
>because I wasn't about to use my Citadel stuff up. Then kind of on a whim,
>I painted some of my plastics with the stuff.
>
>They turned out looking pretty sharp. They also have a whole whack of
>colours available. When I was in the store, they had a rack that went from
>the floor to about my chest, about 2 feet wide, and another smaller one
>beside it.
>
>And the stuff costs about 1/8th the cost of Citadel. It comes in 2oz
(59mL)
>containers. Comparing that to the 13mL of the new Citadel stuff, there's
>four times as much, and the FolkArt stuff is about $1.75 CDN, compared to
>$3.25 CDN at GW.
>
>Mind you, I don't think my Dwarfs are too keen at being painted with
>"Periwinkle Blue" and "Earthenware" instead of "Enchanted Blue" and
>"Snakebite Leather", but at least they don't have to submit to "Goblin
>Green" when "Grass Green" is available.
I love 'em. These paints are either sold as: Folkart, Ceram Coat, Plaid,
etc. but they are essentially the same. 2 oz. bottle you can get for 99
cents (during a sale). Anyway compared to citadel here is what I noticed.
The citadel paints are a little more glossy, this means the citadel paint
will not "hold" ink or washes on the flat areas as much as the other paint.
I have never found this to be a big problem, however. The cheap paints do
have a glaze/gloss additive but I never bothered messing with all that.
The cheap paint is thicker. I like thick paints as you get decent coverage
in one coat and the lighter colors do cover the darker colors better. You
can add water to thin the paint and that works well.
The cheap metallics do seem to have larger "metal flakes" suspended in the
paint. I would stick with Citadel for the metallics.
Paint or die
John
E-mail: jlma...@nconnect.net
URL: http://www.nconnect.net/~jlmartin
ICQ: 9738000; AOL IM: jmartin346
"And they had over them a king, an angel of this abyss; his name is
Abaddon."
Rev. 9:11
Dave Calderon
John L. Martin wrote:
> Jamie Smith wrote in message <6o2msn$r83$1...@usenet46.supernews.com>...
> >I picked up this stuff at Lewiscraft, mostly just to work on some scenery,
> >because I wasn't about to use my Citadel stuff up. Then kind of on a whim,
> >I painted some of my plastics with the stuff.
> >
<snip>
I'v used these paints for year with very good result. I have only bought one box
of paint from GW yeara ago and have never bought any more once I started using
the craft store paints. Only now, after 8 years of gaming, am I just starting to
try some of the really good stuff like Liquitex just to see how they do (very
nice stuff too).
UberNewt
> The cheap metallics do seem to have larger "metal flakes" suspended in the
> paint. I would stick with Citadel for the metallics.
>
Mine never come out right...
UberNewt
Violatre
folk art or plaid. I will buy ral partha paints when they have an
interesting color I haven't seen, but will usually stick to this stuff
because it lasts longer.
Eric McKee
The only Citadel metallic that I really like is Tin BLitz. I have been
much happier with Ral Partha metals, with the exception of bronze which
seperated out into sludge and liquid almost immediately.
Sahryx
have quite the extended range. Plus I bet you will find something close to
Blood Angel red there before Citadel bothers to put it out again before
Christmas (if ever). Personally I prefer their flesh tones as more natural
compared to Citadel.
However - I will give Citadel a hand for having good metallic
colors (I have never tried Ral Patha but after reading the other post I
just might). Shining Gold and Mithril Silver are perhaps the brightest and
sharpest shades I've seen (though I think Burnished Gold sucks, maybe I
have a bad batch) plus Tin Bits is pretty cool. Most of the other color
metaalic shades can be found in Folkart too with reduced cost. No one
seems to have a good metallic red though.
Apple Barrel is also a good source of cheap paints - they come in
small snap close containers and coat very very well plus come in a wide
range of shades (no metallics though).
Chris
The Folk art and apple barrel paints both work great IMO. You get a great
big bottle for about a dollar. I dont care for their mettalics. I have
had a problem using them for drybrushing as they dont adhere well. The
other colored paints comprise about 80% of the paint I use and I get
excellent results. About 10% of my paints are partha paints that I use as
a base coat for drybrushing. When I drybrush over partha paints they stick
well even if applied to a lightly primered figure. The only problem I have
ever had with gw paints is when used as a basecoat the tend to rub off on
the folds , and show primer, when drybrushed over. Beside my citadel
paints(especially metallic) tend to separte really bad!
Hope I helped.
chris
val...@my-dejanews.com
Faolk Art, Apple Barrel and other hobby paints usually work very nicely, I
agree. And I also agree that their metallics have some issue that make them
not the best choice. My favorite metallics are Armoury, because they seem to
contain a lot of black pigment giving a very antiqued look to them. I like
this as who really expects shiny new metal on any of the weapons? I have
since run out of the Armoury metallics and now have to spend some extra
effort using inks on everything metallic I paint because I bought a lot of
craft metallics. Next time I will go back to metallics made for miniatures.
-- Wisdom is the algorythm through which we pass the minutiea of our lives.
Wesley Russell Martinson
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Travis Baumann
>
> John L. Martin wrote:
> > The cheap metallics do seem to have larger "metal flakes" suspended in the
> > paint. I would stick with Citadel for the metallics.
> >
> Wow! That's impressive. I thought Citadel were the worst metallics ever.
> Mine never come out right...
>
> UberNewt
I absolutely love Citadel Metalics like the Purple, Blue and Green...I
find the beaten Copper interesting and I really like the Bronze but
unfortunately it takes a few coats of the latter....generally a light
ink wash of brown really brings out the bronze and copper...Glistening
Gold is cool too for certain things...my absolute favorite though is Tin
Bitz...that is the best fucking color in my opinion...my Dark Elves are
black, liche purple with a black wash over it to make it dark and then
all armour/metal is tin bitz and bronze with ink washes over that...they
are all albino with blood-died red hair...they look totally evil and I
get lots of complements...
My only real complaints with Citadel paints are the white and
yellow...they dont cover well and the white seems to dry faster than all
the paints clumping on the brush or miniature and if you thin it out it
wont cover at all...
I also use liquidex acyrlics but they tend to not coat quite as nicely
but have real nice color selection
I dont care for Polly paints or Ral Partha generally...I try to stick
mainly with Citadel because I do alot of mixing and custom color
generation and have found problems with mixing different varieties and I
really dont care for alot of the colors honestly...most of my armies
have a very evil surreal look and citadel colors have alot of pigments
that work perfectly for my paint schemes....
--
Travis Baumann
UberNewt
burnished golds I've gotten over time. None of them cover well without an
undercoat of black. Without that it just looks like you barely even put paint on
it. The silver shades are pretty good though, with boltgun metal coming out the
best in my opinion.
UberNewt
Adrian Z
>> yellow...they dont cover well and the white seems to dry faster than all
>> the paints clumping on the brush or miniature and if you thin it out it
>> wont cover at all...
Yeah Its true yellow is like coulored water and white dry's instantly
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