[40K][PAINT] IG Painting Review
Pochi the Dog
Introduction
Until I started painting my Imperial Guard Army I hadn't picked up a
paintbrush for about 10 years. Before then it was only to paint the odd
role-playing figure. So far I have painted the core force and have noticed
my painting has speeded up, takes about 4-5 hours per figure, which is a
speed I'm happy with because my holidays have been delayed till January and
that's when I'll need the army.
My usual method for painting is
1. White undercoat
2. Paint base color.
3. Apply a general wash
4. Apply 1-2 washes (Darker shades) on selected area
5. Dry brush 1-2 times with a lighter shade.
With detailing I usually use one wash and one dry brush.
The paints I use are Delta Cremcoat due to ease of availability. My first
section I painted (AF) was with Tamiya paints.
On my earlier figures I didn't dry brush as I was destroying too many
brushes. Now I take it as the price of dry brushing but how does one care
for a brush after this treatment. I wash the brushes in water and then form
the hairs into a point. However the loose hairs just pop out of position and
after a few times the brush is having a serious bad hair day. Help.
Standard bearer
This is my first major conversion. The original figure was holding a shotgun
and when I cut it off the hands were out of alignment for the flagpole. To
rectify this I had to hack off about 4mm between the arm and the chest.
Anyone who recommends a hand drill for this job are truly patient people, me
I used the power drill with a .6mm drill bit (broke), .8mm drill bit
(snapped), and a 1.2mm drill bit (old trusty). During the power drill frenzy
the machine spirit managed to lop off the tops off the fingers on the left
hand. Also the seam lines between the figure and the flagpole are too
noticeable (IMO). Is this a case of the green stuff?
While I have put my paintbrush down on this figure I am planning a few more
conversions involving weapon changes and reattaching some heads and limbs. I
also wish to add ammo belts, turbans, and the like. Is this another case of
the green stuff?
I also have a problem with the WYSIWUG. I forgot to give the guy a weapon.
If I lay a plasma gun at his feet would it pass the test?
Front right view
http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_2ocl.jpg
Front left view
http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
Back view
http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/sb_6ocl.jpg
BTW the dog's name is Pochi and the Old Bear issued dog tags are my real
life modeling dedication to the old fart.
Faces, faces, I can't paint fucking faces.
I can't do a face I'm happy with. To paint eyes I use the above method the
paint dark brown in the eye sockets, then white, then a black dot. I read on
mini painter to apply black before painting the face but doesn't anyone have
a quick, easy way or is this an experience thing? Did I say I paint crap
eyes?
How do you paint a mouth? Any special treatment for the cheeks? What color
do you paint your nipples? What is the way to represent body hair, 5 o'clock
shadows, and beards?
I have many questions and hope someone has an answer.
I took a few pixs of the rest of my army and would welcome opinions;
comments and especially criticism from anyone as the people who have seen my
army are not familiar with the world of Warhammer or miniatures. I haven't
done the bases but after seeing Geoff's bases I think I know how I'm going
to do them. Thanks Geoff, Excellent work. This means I'll tidy up the boots,
and also don't be to harsh on the tanks as the last time I made up a plastic
model was before I turned drinking age.
My Infanty Guard Pics
http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz//Hello
Currently I'm half way thru painting one section and have lined up a further
two sections, a platoon HQ, a heavy weapons section, a basilisk (thinking of
disguising it as a tree) and preachers.
Further to this workload is a special detachment of RGMW marines or RGMW
Space Wolves Marine Scouts led by Veteran Sergeant Justin the Eternal Newbie
(Even gets to pick his own wargear).
Kevin Roberts
"From here on out, Rob will be know as Jesus Singers, the Sneaky
Yoda"-Justin Gaskins
Holder of "The List" with 117 names who dislike Erik Setzer
"Don't go referencing that list. It's a very bad idea."-Erik
http://rgmw.org/ Newbies please read
Appendix 1 Geoffs bases
"I had been using the following technique;
1. Paint PVA onto base and dip in sand.
2. Allow to dry then repaint watered PVA onto sand.
3. Allow ages to dry, then paint Scorched Brown.
4. Drybrush Bleached Bone
5. Drybrush White
6. A few dabs of PVA and add GeoHex green flock.
7. Few more dabs of PVA, add GW static grass.
I've since changed the painting of scorched brown with neat brown ink.
It clogs the sand up less and makes a better texture for the
drybrushing.
Geoff"
Example of Work
http://www.gtblakey.demon.co.uk/wh40k/tau/tau03.jpg
Geoffs Tau
http://www.gtblakey.demon.co.uk/wh40k/tau/index.html
John Hwang
>Introduction
>Until I started painting my Imperial Guard Army I hadn't picked up a
>paintbrush for about 10 years. Before then it was only to paint the odd
>role-playing figure. So far I have painted the core force and have noticed
>my painting has speeded up, takes about 4-5 hours per figure, which is a
>speed I'm happy with because my holidays have been delayed till January and
>that's when I'll need the army.
IG, and you're painting 4-5 hours per *figure*?!? You'll *never* finish at
this rate. Assembly line them! Paint entire squads at a time.
>My usual method for painting is
>1. White undercoat
>2. Paint base color.
>3. Apply a general wash
>4. Apply 1-2 washes (Darker shades) on selected area
>5. Dry brush 1-2 times with a lighter shade.
>
>With detailing I usually use one wash and one dry brush.
>
>The paints I use are Delta Cremcoat due to ease of availability. My first
>section I painted (AF) was with Tamiya paints.
>
>On my earlier figures I didn't dry brush as I was destroying too many
>brushes. Now I take it as the price of dry brushing but how does one care
>for a brush after this treatment. I wash the brushes in water and then form
>the hairs into a point. However the loose hairs just pop out of position and
>after a few times the brush is having a serious bad hair day. Help.
You're doing it wrong. (sorry).
Drybrushing should still "pull" the tip across the surface. Get a paper towel
or sheet of paper to allow you to control the amount of paint on your brush.
Just a little bit, spread evenly at the tip, and you'll be fine.
*NEVER*, *NEVER* use the brush to "push" the paint, as this will undoubtedly
destroy the brush in short order.
>Standard bearer
>This is my first major conversion. The original figure was holding a shotgun
>and when I cut it off the hands were out of alignment for the flagpole. To
>rectify this I had to hack off about 4mm between the arm and the chest.
>Anyone who recommends a hand drill for this job are truly patient people,
It's a question of precision control, not time here.
>me I used the power drill with a .6mm drill bit (broke), .8mm drill bit
>(snapped), and a 1.2mm drill bit (old trusty).
Why am I not surprised at this happening? Choke up on the smaller bits so they
don't snap so easily. But really, just use the pin vise.
The only time I break out the power drill is if I'm rifle-drilling a cannon
barrel. There's nothing like seeing WFB cannon that you *know* you could drop
a BB cannon ball into...
>During the power drill frenzy
>the machine spirit managed to lop off the tops off the fingers on the left
>hand. Also the seam lines between the figure and the flagpole are too
>noticeable (IMO). Is this a case of the green stuff?
Yup. Just a tiny bit will be OK.
>While I have put my paintbrush down on this figure I am planning a few more
>conversions involving weapon changes and reattaching some heads and limbs. I
>also wish to add ammo belts, turbans, and the like. Is this another case of
>the green stuff?
For new bits like ammo belts, I'd say yeah. But to swap limbs and such, get a
"razor saw" (ultra-fine saw blade, with <1mm tooth spacing). It'll cut
straight and fast.
>I also have a problem with the WYSIWUG. I forgot to give the guy a weapon.
>If I lay a plasma gun at his feet would it pass the test?
Better to just buy the plasma gun figure.
>Front right view
>http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_2ocl.jpg
>Front left view
>http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
Why isn't he wearing any pants?
>Back view
>http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/sb_6ocl.jpg
>
>BTW the dog's name is Pochi and the Old Bear issued dog tags are my real
>life modeling dedication to the old fart.
>
>Faces, faces, I can't paint fucking faces.
>I can't do a face I'm happy with. To paint eyes I use the above method the
>paint dark brown in the eye sockets, then white, then a black dot. I read on
>mini painter to apply black before painting the face but doesn't anyone have
>a quick, easy way or is this an experience thing? Did I say I paint crap
>eyes?
>
>How do you paint a mouth? Any special treatment for the cheeks? What color
>do you paint your nipples? What is the way to represent body hair, 5 o'clock
>shadows, and beards?
>
>I have many questions and hope someone has an answer.
>
>I took a few pixs of the rest of my army and would welcome opinions;
>comments and especially criticism from anyone as the people who have seen my
>army are not familiar with the world of Warhammer or miniatures. I haven't
>done the bases but after seeing Geoff's bases I think I know how I'm going
>to do them. Thanks Geoff, Excellent work. This means I'll tidy up the boots,
>and also don't be to harsh on the tanks as the last time I made up a plastic
>model was before I turned drinking age.
>
>My Infanty Guard Pics
>http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz//Hello
A Leman Russ tank with a mohawk???
>Currently I'm half way thru painting one section and have lined up a further
>two sections, a platoon HQ, a heavy weapons section, a basilisk (thinking of
>disguising it as a tree) and preachers.
>
>Further to this workload is a special detachment of RGMW marines or RGMW
>Space Wolves Marine Scouts led by Veteran Sergeant Justin the Eternal Newbie
>(Even gets to pick his own wargear).
>
>Kevin Roberts
>
>"From here on out, Rob will be know as Jesus Singers, the Sneaky
>Yoda"-Justin Gaskins
>
>Holder of "The List" with 117 names who dislike Erik Setzer
>"Don't go referencing that list. It's a very bad idea."-Erik
>
>http://rgmw.org/ Newbies please read
>
>Appendix 1 Geoffs bases
>
>"I had been using the following technique;
>1. Paint PVA onto base and dip in sand.
>2. Allow to dry then repaint watered PVA onto sand.
>3. Allow ages to dry, then paint Scorched Brown.
>4. Drybrush Bleached Bone
>5. Drybrush White
>6. A few dabs of PVA and add GeoHex green flock.
>7. Few more dabs of PVA, add GW static grass.
>
>I've since changed the painting of scorched brown with neat brown ink.
>It clogs the sand up less and makes a better texture for the
>drybrushing.
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
RT Maitreya
> >role-playing figure. So far I have painted the core force and have noticed
> >my painting has speeded up, takes about 4-5 hours per figure, which is a
> IG, and you're painting 4-5 hours per *figure*?!? You'll *never* finish at
That's a pretty ok rate. I'm right about there,
maybe 3-4 hours. You will want to halve that
time in order to get volumes of IG done.
> >The paints I use are Delta Cremcoat due to ease of availability. My first
> >section I painted (AF) was with Tamiya paints.
They're great paints.
> >for a brush after this treatment. I wash the brushes in water and then form
> >the hairs into a point. However the loose hairs just pop out of position and
> >after a few times the brush is having a serious bad hair day. Help.
And get dedicated drybrushes. Some like soft
drybrushes, some like bristlier ones. Just
use it only for drybrushing, and it gets macked
up, who cares?
> Why am I not surprised at this happening? Choke up on the smaller bits so they
> don't snap so easily. But really, just use the pin vise.
Agreed.
> For new bits like ammo belts, I'd say yeah. But to swap limbs and such, get a
> "razor saw" (ultra-fine saw blade, with <1mm tooth spacing). It'll cut
Agreed.
> >Front left view
> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
>
> Why isn't he wearing any pants?
Caught me too.
> >My Infanty Guard Pics
> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz//Hello
>
> A Leman Russ tank with a mohawk???
Hehehe, it's kinda cool. I like the chimera paint job.
RTM
Lapdance Enabled Northy
wrote:
>> >role-playing figure. So far I have painted the core force and have noticed
>> >my painting has speeded up, takes about 4-5 hours per figure, which is a
>
>> IG, and you're painting 4-5 hours per *figure*?!? You'll *never* finish at
>
>That's a pretty ok rate. I'm right about there,
>maybe 3-4 hours. You will want to halve that
>time in order to get volumes of IG done.
I'm up around 2-3 hours a figure. But Tallarn are the most simple
models to paint, in the style I chose. Most other troops (High Elf
spearmen, for example, I'm up around 3-4 1/2 hours a fig still.
It is a reasonable rate, though, IMO.
>> >The paints I use are Delta Cremcoat due to ease of availability. My first
>> >section I painted (AF) was with Tamiya paints.
>
>They're great paints.
Agreed on this one. The local flying model shop (Great place to pick
up all sorts of nice gubbinz) stocks Tamiyas, and they are really nice
paints for large area models, tanks and suchlike, although I still
stick with boring Citadel paints for 'regular' minis.
>> >for a brush after this treatment. I wash the brushes in water and then form
>> >the hairs into a point. However the loose hairs just pop out of position and
>> >after a few times the brush is having a serious bad hair day. Help.
>
>And get dedicated drybrushes. Some like soft
>drybrushes, some like bristlier ones. Just
>use it only for drybrushing, and it gets macked
>up, who cares?
Exactly. I got a firm Ceramics brush 'Ceramic Arts-Silver 819' to be
exact. For drybrushing and quick by-hand undercoating and (all-over)
basecoating. Fantastic brush, used it for years now and the quality of
it has barely been dimished.
> Why am I not surprised at this happening? Choke up on the smaller bits so they
>> don't snap so easily. But really, just use the pin vise.
>
>Agreed.
Only used a pin vise about 6 times in my entire modelling life (3
Dragons,Daemon Prince of Nurgle and a Standard Bearer conversions. I
must be stunting my conversion growth or something...
-Northy
"I never lap dance until Northy okays the recipient." -Ms J. Quick
I AM BIGGER THAN NIAGARA FALLS! -->
http://www.freewebz.com/rgmw/images/rgmw-gal-rnorth.png
"The man was apparently trying to ignite his shoes" -Yahoo News, Dec 2001.
Angelcake
> Only used a pin vise about 6 times in my entire modelling life (3
> Dragons,Daemon Prince of Nurgle and a Standard Bearer conversions. I
> must be stunting my conversion growth or something...
Cripes, really? The pin-vice is one of my most loved and abused modelling
tools, I use it all over the place from pinning really big stuff together
(usually with araldite too) to small things like pinning a chap to his
base or attaching weapons - much of the time, superglue just ain't enough
for me, need more sticky power!
--
Angelcake
Bearer of green hat #63
angelcake at zworg dot com
Pochi the Dog
RT Maitreya wrote in message
> John Hwang wrote:
> > >Front left view
> > >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
> >
> > Why isn't he wearing any pants?
>
> Caught me too.
>
No Pants. Fuck that got me seriously worried. My Standard bearer of which I
spent too many hours ends up with a free dangling willy. I been a free with
a few of the uniforms, but I just ain't Liberal enough to allow any of my
soldiers with just a loincloth as his only form of protection to take the
battlefield. No pants, I painted pants, but.but..no pants..
I had to dig the Standard bearer out of the case for that one. No.pants. I
stared at my standard bearer for 15 minutes thinking no pants. Even tried to
get in touch with the Bi side. No Pants. Fuck me I can't see it. My mate
came over this morning and he understands skin. I asked him "No pants" he
replied "fuck me I can't see it"
I checked the standard bearer against the screen and the colors seem right.
Things seem different in real life but even on the screen, no pants, fuck me
I can't see it.
I stared at the figure, no pants. Who else did I get an opinion from
<thinks> Hichan. She's an arty person, solo mum and is in that age bracket
where women are at their maximum libido. If there were no pants on that man
she would have seen it. <shudder> I'm dealing with extreme sex crazed
people.
No Pants, fuck me, I can't see it.
I checked my notes. Face and skin color was based around my Japanese
Girlfriends skin tone and the pants painted in my standard arid agriworld
color.
I cast my mind back to my girlfriends yellow skin and her legs, and I
thought, no fucking way. As the flesh is modeled on Asians I had a walk
downtown to check out some scantily clad chicks for "scientific purposes"
With the start of the warm spring weather, its become "get as much flesh out
as possible to show off " fashion season. The mini-skirts, the halter tops,
the low cut, the bare midriffs, I had to check it all to see if any yellow
skin matched my standard bearers arid agriworld color pants. I live in a
rather nice Japanese City who whose reputation is for the women to show a
lot of skin, and fuck me, I couldn't find a match.
No pants, fuck me, I can't see it.
My Girlfriend came over tonight and she's sleeping now. Had to make her
model for the figure again but this time she had to wear only a bright
yellow hanky. I checked her leg color and even made her turn over and wiggle
her arse at me so as I could compare with the standard bearer. So sorry
boys, fuck me, no pants, I can see pants.
I worked it out, your pulling my leg
Kev
"From here on out, Rob will be know as Jesus Singers, the Sneaky
Yoda"-Justin Gaskins
Holder of "The List" with 119 names who dislike Erik Setzer
"Don't go referencing that list. It's a very bad idea."-Erik
http://rgmw.org/ Where's the porn links?
John Hwang
>John Hwang wrote:
>> >role-playing figure. So far I have painted the core force and have noticed
>> >my painting has speeded up, takes about 4-5 hours per figure, which is a
>
>> IG, and you're painting 4-5 hours per *figure*?!? You'll *never* finish at
>
>That's a pretty ok rate. I'm right about there,
>maybe 3-4 hours. You will want to halve that
>time in order to get volumes of IG done.
Exactly. IG is a numbers army. Spend the extra time on the characters, and
the special and heavy weapons, but the basic guys can/should be done quickly.
>> >The paints I use are Delta Cremcoat due to ease of availability. My first
>> >section I painted (AF) was with Tamiya paints.
>
>They're great paints.
>
>> >for a brush after this treatment. I wash the brushes in water and then
>> >form the hairs into a point. However the loose hairs just pop out of
>> >position and after a few times the brush is having a serious bad hair
>> >day. Help.
>
>And get dedicated drybrushes. Some like soft
>drybrushes, some like bristlier ones. Just
>use it only for drybrushing, and it gets macked
>up, who cares?
Drybrushing, done with care, should *not* destroy the brush. I've been using
my regular painting brushes for drybrushing for years now, and have no problem
with them.
[SNIP]
>> >Front left view
>> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
>>
>> Why isn't he wearing any pants?
>
>Caught me too.
Of course, what this really means is that the pants color and skin color are
too close.
>> >My Infanty Guard Pics
>> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz//Hello
>>
>> A Leman Russ tank with a mohawk???
>
>Hehehe, it's kinda cool.
Yeah, otherwise, I'd not have mentioned it for the rest of RGMW to pick up on.
.
>I like the chimera paint job.
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
RT Maitreya
> Cripes, really? The pin-vice is one of my most loved and abused modelling
> tools, I use it all over the place from pinning really big stuff together
> (usually with araldite too) to small things like pinning a chap to his
> base or attaching weapons - much of the time, superglue just ain't enough
> for me, need more sticky power!
Agreed. Probably 1/3 of everything I've put
together has one or more pins in it. What it
boils down to is that with painting and assembly,
I use lots of pins and lots of satin sprays
simply because I don't want anything to ever
break or chip. I put too much work into these
little bastards.
RTM
RT Maitreya
> Drybrushing, done with care, should *not* destroy the brush. I've been using
> my regular painting brushes for drybrushing for years now, and have no problem
> with them.
I downgrade my detail brushes into drybrushes after
about two years of use, and then they serve as
drybrushes for only about a year or so.
The difference is that I "don't care" about the
brushes once they're downgraded.
RTM
Pochi the Dog
John Hwang wrote in message
> RT Maitreya wrote:
> >John Hwang wrote:
> >> >Front left view
> >> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
> >>
> >> Why isn't he wearing any pants?
> >
> >Caught me too.
>
> Of course, what this really means is that the pants color and skin color
are
> too close.
>
I think its the way the colors appear in the photo and on the screen. In RL
it looks like pants. You got me seriously worried.
> >> >My Infanty Guard Pics
> >> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz//Hello
> >>
> >> A Leman Russ tank with a mohawk???
> >
> >Hehehe, it's kinda cool.
>
> Yeah, otherwise, I'd not have mentioned it for the rest of RGMW to pick up
on.
> .
>
> >I like the chimera paint job.
>
Thanks dudes
Also a special thanks to everyone for the advice
Kev
RT Maitreya
> No Pants. Fuck that got me seriously worried. My Standard bearer of which I
> spent too many hours ends up with a free dangling willy.
Damn commando.
> came over this morning and he understands skin. I asked him "No pants" he
> replied "fuck me I can't see it"
I'm sorry, but this just cracked me up.
> <thinks> Hichan. She's an arty person, solo mum and is in that age bracket
> where women are at their maximum libido. If there were no pants on that man
> she would have seen it. <shudder> I'm dealing with extreme sex crazed
Damn, I've got to get me better neighbors.
> I cast my mind back to my girlfriends yellow skin and her legs, and I
> thought, no fucking way. As the flesh is modeled on Asians I had a walk
> downtown to check out some scantily clad chicks for "scientific purposes"
You're not helping me feel good.
> With the start of the warm spring weather, its become "get as much flesh out
> as possible to show off " fashion season. The mini-skirts, the halter tops,
> the low cut, the bare midriffs, I had to check it all to see if any yellow
No, really, my life is starting to sound bad.
> skin matched my standard bearers arid agriworld color pants. I live in a
> rather nice Japanese City who whose reputation is for the women to show a
> lot of skin, and fuck me, I couldn't find a match.
I could find myself a few matches.
> My Girlfriend came over tonight and she's sleeping now. Had to make her
> model for the figure again but this time she had to wear only a bright
> yellow hanky.
Seriously, I'm not feeling very positive about the
life decisions I've made.
> I checked her leg color and even made her turn over and wiggle
> her arse at me so as I could compare with the standard bearer.
Urm. Yeah, I'm going to go mope now.
RTM
Lapdance Enabled Northy
wrote:
>Angelcake wrote:
I can understand that sentiment quite well... That's why I gave up
superglue for "get-u-high" epoxy glue for metals, and superglue for
plastics (they just don't have the weight to need anything else, and
cyanocrylate is dirt cheap. :oP
Then again, I don't recall actually having to fix many models, at
least, not beyond the usual speartips and shit like that.
Guess I'm lazy with a pin vice, because I haven't had any major
accidents with them yet.
Pochi the Dog
RT Maitreya wrote in message
>
> > No Pants. Fuck that got me seriously worried. My Standard bearer of
which I
> > spent too many hours ends up with a free dangling willy.
>
> Damn commando.
I'm building a IG militia. The best research I did was watch "The Patriot".
In this historic recreation and I saw Mel Gibson pick up the flag at the end
wearing leather pants. No signs of any movement. I know Mel had a swinging
python in "Braveheart" but he was portraying a Scot. Most normal thinking
men, before the dawn of time, have strapped "it" away before entering
combat. My standard bearer needs pants.
>
> > came over this morning and he understands skin. I asked him "No pants"
he
> > replied "fuck me I can't see it"
>
> I'm sorry, but this just cracked me up.
>
My mate will like that.
> > <thinks> Hichan. She's an arty person, solo mum and is in that age
bracket
> > where women are at their maximum libido. If there were no pants on that
man
> > she would have seen it. <shudder> I'm dealing with extreme sex crazed
>
> Damn, I've got to get me better neighbors.
>
When I first met my friends cousin her first words were "My names XXX, and
I'm not wearing a bra" and then thrust out her nipple. Shes an ex b&d
mistress and it was the first time I saw a woman go around the whole party
with the sole condition that she be the dominatix. I see her from time to
time and the offer still stands. She hasn't seen the figure so sorry it went
off topic.
> > I cast my mind back to my girlfriends yellow skin and her legs, and I
> > thought, no fucking way. As the flesh is modeled on Asians I had a walk
> > downtown to check out some scantily clad chicks for "scientific
purposes"
>
> You're not helping me feel good.
It gets better...
>
> > With the start of the warm spring weather, its become "get as much flesh
out
> > as possible to show off " fashion season. The mini-skirts, the halter
tops,
> > the low cut, the bare midriffs, I had to check it all to see if any
yellow
>
> No, really, my life is starting to sound bad.
>
I didn't mention the highschool girls. Its Spring Holidays and while some
students are wearing the school uniform (usually in loose socks style), and
the rest spending daddys money on...well....in a materialistic sense...not
much at all. They then hang around in the park meeting friends and waiting
to be noticed. This was my first place of reference when doing my
"scientific test"
> > skin matched my standard bearers arid agriworld color pants. I live in a
> > rather nice Japanese City who whose reputation is for the women to show
a
> > lot of skin, and fuck me, I couldn't find a match.
>
> I could find myself a few matches.
I know a few bars you would like.
> RTM
Kev
Bakaboy
<snip>
Sigh.
>
>Urm. Yeah, I'm going to go mope now.
>
Get in line. I think I'll go and sulk right now.
-A.
--
"One can dismiss out of hand any so-called religion
that puts out death threats against satirists. It is
self-evident that God enjoys rough humour."
-Gentleman John Killian
Mikael Halila
>
> The Voices told RT Maitreya to write:
>
> >Urm. Yeah, I'm going to go mope now.
> >
>
Fixed your post. Admit it, that's far more appropriate.
--
Mikael Halila
--
"I heard the Empire has a tyrannical and
repressive form of government!"
"What form of government is that?"
"A tautology."
- Terry Pratchett, Interesting Times
John Hwang
>> RT Maitreya wrote:
>> >John Hwang wrote:
>
>> >> >Front left view
>> >> >http://www.geocities.com/kevfromshiz/SB_10ocl.jpg
>> >>
>> >> Why isn't he wearing any pants?
>> >
>> >Caught me too.
>>
>> Of course, what this really means is that the pants color and skin color
>>are too close.
>
>I think its the way the colors appear in the photo and on the screen. In RL
>it looks like pants. You got me seriously worried.
As I read in your other post... :)
But yeah, photos and scanners get a little funny with colors.
Bakaboy
>Bakaboy wrote:
>>
>> The Voices told RT Maitreya to write:
>>
>> >Urm. Yeah, I'm going to go mope now.
>> >
>>
>> Get in line. I think I'll go and spooge right now.
>
>Fixed your post. Admit it, that's far more appropriate.
Too appropriate. <grumbles> Saves me a bundle on hair gel, though.
Angelcake
> What it boils down to is that with painting and assembly, I use lots of
> pins and lots of satin sprays simply because I don't want anything to
> ever break or chip. I put too much work into these little bastards.
Exactly. I use araldite and gloss varnish all over the place too, mainly
because I have had far too many accidents with breaking, chipping minis
than I care to think about, and put too much work into the little fellas
to have them ruined through something simple like lack of presentation.
RT Maitreya
> I can understand that sentiment quite well... That's why I gave up
> superglue for "get-u-high" epoxy glue for metals, and superglue for
> plastics (they just don't have the weight to need anything else, and
Blah! superglue on plastics? Model glue is much
better, stronger, easier to work with.
> Guess I'm lazy with a pin vice, because I haven't had any major
> accidents with them yet.
I travel a lot, and I used to break shit just because
of jostling. Since the pin mania, the only things
that have broken are a couple of backpacks, and my
damn lightning claws from my vet sarge (twice).
RTM
Lapdance Enabled Northy
wrote:
>Lapdance Enabled Northy wrote:
>
>> I can understand that sentiment quite well... That's why I gave up
>> superglue for "get-u-high" epoxy glue for metals, and superglue for
>> plastics (they just don't have the weight to need anything else, and
>
>Blah! superglue on plastics? Model glue is much
>better, stronger, easier to work with.
I know, but the (significantly quicker setting time suits my short
attention sp... Ooooh, cookies...
<<eats cookies>>
Anyway, I do sometimes like to reposition plastics after assembly (for
ranking purposes etc, superglue allows me to seperate easier too...
>> Guess I'm lazy with a pin vice, because I haven't had any major
>> accidents with them yet.
>
>I travel a lot, and I used to break shit just because
>of jostling. Since the pin mania, the only things
>that have broken are a couple of backpacks, and my
>damn lightning claws from my vet sarge (twice).
My IG and SM's have survived eight trans-Atlantic crossings, three
moves in the States and plenty of gaming. but they've suffered nothing
worse than the occasional chip of paint.
John Hwang
>Lapdance Enabled Northy wrote:
>> I can understand that sentiment quite well... That's why I gave up
>> superglue for "get-u-high" epoxy glue for metals, and superglue for
>> plastics (they just don't have the weight to need anything else, and
>
>Blah! superglue on plastics? Model glue is much
>better, stronger, easier to work with.
Agree. Tho switching to a thin epoxy isn't a bad idea for metal-to-metal
bonds.
>> Guess I'm lazy with a pin vice, because I haven't had any major
>> accidents with them yet.
>
>I travel a lot, and I used to break shit just because
>of jostling.
What're you using for cases? I use Chessex, and as long as the minis are
padded and "snug", they'll not break.
>Since the pin mania, the only things
>that have broken are a couple of backpacks, and my
>damn lightning claws from my vet sarge (twice).
Agree on the benefits of pinning.
I've had the plastic claws of my VS all break where they joined the glove when
the case dropped from the table -- the model wasn't snug enough, so the impact
of a metal librarian on 8 rather slender bits of plastic was too much. Now,
I've re-packed him so hopefully this won't be a problem any more.
RT Maitreya
> What're you using for cases? I use Chessex, and as long as the minis are
> padded and "snug", they'll not break.
Those big paddy cases aren't compact enough.
I use a modified roly-kit, and I suffer with
some models touching, but then again a whole 2000
points fits in something the size slightly
larger than a single chessex box.
RTM
John Hwang
>> What're you using for cases? I use Chessex, and as long
>> as the minis are padded and "snug", they'll not break.
>
>Those big paddy cases aren't compact enough.
You can fit 4 in a square duffel. With space for dice, templates, and rules.
:)
>I use a modified roly-kit, and I suffer with
>some models touching,
Oh dear -- models couldl scratch and chip!
>but then again a whole 2000
>points fits in something the size slightly
>larger than a single chessex box.
Hmm... I get1250-1750 pts per box, depending on which army and which models I
carry. Not too bad.