(OT) ranting about paint jobs
hadri...@my-deja.com
called very well painted and with extensive conversions. Well guess
what, it looks like totlal shit. The guy said he had several figures
that were painted at a 10 out of 10, these things were barely base
coated. Case in point was the 10 out of 10 chaos lord that looked to
have been undercoated black, then a single layer of metalic blue for
the armor and a shitty red dry brushing for the cloak. I mean for
christ sake, put some shading and detail work on it. And the best part
is, the guy sen the stuff un wrapped. Everything thwas thrown into a
box and shipped loose, zip for padding.
The only saving grace is that about 80 percent of the figures are metal
and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75 percent
retail for the stuff.
In short people be fucking honest about your painting.
For those who want know I have pictures of figures Have paint on my
sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7 out
of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
ok rant mode over, thank you.
--
When the only tool you have is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail.
Shadow Hammer - The 40K RPG
http://www.geocities.com/azazal_666_2000/
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Richard Lawford
most.
Cheers
Rich
<hadri...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:88ca39$s45$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Jason Dyer, Ph.D.
>
> No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a 2 or 3 at
> most.
>
> Cheers
>
> Rich
2 or 3 is VERY harsh on him! These are about a 5 - cleanly based, high
and low lights applied, detail is added, extra things like the
lightening on the Night Lord Marine. My only criticism is the lack of
detail in the bolters (drill out the barrels!) - use a black wash on the
metal. A few touch ups are needed on the raptor model wings and sword.
The other thing is the varnish - certainly use gloss to protect your
mini's but put a layer of Dull-Cote (from Testors) over the top.
JKD
_________________________________________________
Jason Dyer, Ph.D.
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Research Scientist, GW-Outrider
Member RTC, 3rd Edition Fanboy
http://cord.ubc.ca/~steeves/jkd/40k/wh40k-main.html
________________________________________________
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabris,
ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam.
_________________________________________________
For all you'll ever need to know about paint removal, read the
remarkable prose of Blank Dave,,,,
http://www.paintingclinic.com/assist/assist.htm
_________________________________________________
Justin Gaskins
> No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a 2 or 3 at
> most.
Are you sure you looked at the right models. A 2 means it is primed and has one
color. I think the system going to about 5 or 6 if you do all the steps (prime,
basecoat, second color, ink, drybrush, maybe more). I'd say my models are about
as good and I place them about a 6.
joshuadred
Cap'n Puddinhed wrote in message ...
>In article <38a9ea09$1...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com>,
>slaugh...@hotmail.com says...
>
><snipped out lots of extraneous stuff>
>
>> I learned long ago how to make an entire army look good without having to
spend
>> days on each model individually.
>
>How do you go about doing that? I am one of the slowest painters in the
>world because I spend WAY too much time on individual models. My stuff
>looks good, but it takes me an eternity to get anything done.
Hmmm Im glad you asked that. I think Ill post this as a new thread, cuz so
many of the new painters never here any of this stuff.
There are several steps. Certain steps need to be modified depending on
what armies are being painted, or the number of models in the army/unit, but
all steps offer some valuable advice and direction.
1) Paint a planned colour scheme. Do not deviate from this scheme!
All armies should consist of 3 colours. Secondary colours such as but not
limited to white grey black bone any metallic do not count against this, but
if prominently displayed should count against the three.
Remember: 2 colours is boring, 4 colours is a mess. Dont believe me? Go
look at entire armies in pictures and see if Its true.
Exceptions- this is more true in WHFB than in W40K: certain models demand
deviation from the set pattern. For instance deamons or Dragons or any
unusual creature which obviously would not share the same colour patterns as
the rest of the army. In this case, set up a new set of 3 colours for it
and do not deviate from that for all similar models in the army. This is
the case with my Tyranid weaponry. All of my tyranid weaponry has its own
set of 3 colours or variations that I must follow, apart from the colours
the creatures have.
WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics look
like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
2) Bright models are Beautiful. Dark models are Ugly.
HIGHLIGHT HIGHLIGHT HIGHLIGHT. Highlighting is the most important thing in
building a beautiful looking army. Whatever colours you choose to put on
your armies, highlight them with even lighter versions. I cant stress this
enough. dont stop at dark blue highlighted with blue, go to light blue and
then even lighter blue. Do this for every color on every model.. no
exceptions. Mix white into EVERYTHING. The most stunning army Ive ever
seen in battle was painted by a friend of mine who now works for GW. It was
a goblin army. Normally tons of goblins are nothing special to look at, but
he had boldly highlighted each goblins face, body, weapon and mount. Whats
more he did it with a variety of bold colours and repeated the highlighting
consistently throughout the army. I can now say the best painted army I
have ever seen was a goblin army.
On the other hand, dark models, no matter HOW WELL PAINTED under normal
light look drab and plain, if not just ugly. YES this means YOU. So
highlight! Then highlight AGAIN!!!
3) Abstraction is Beautiful. Realism is Ugly
Do not paint every detail on the model!!!!!!!!!
This may seem totally contrary to what one might expect. But it is true.
Every color variation you put on a model can be seen at a distance. What
seemed like a good idea in painting a belt sack and dagger a variety of
colours at 2 inches away, looks like utter CRAP from 4 feet away. All you
see are blotches of colour because the detail is lost at that distance.
Certain models in the GW line are overloaded with detail. Stick to the
three main colours, and slight deviation into the neutral colours stated
above. (And you should repeat the same neutral colours too)
Just as important.. Dont fall into the trap of painting everything
realistically. Realism is ugly. Dont believe me? look around! When was
the last time you were standing in surroundings or clothes that were so
beautiful that they should have been in a painting?
DO NOT paint every weapon shaft brown and every axehead silver. Do not
paint every belt tan. Use Vibrant colours.. Look at Anime for example. Why
do so many characters have blue or green hair, instead of brown or black?
I had a mummy unit that was straight grey and white for the wrappings.. but
for the axes and maces, I painted the shafts turquoise blue, (with highlight
of course) and the metal blades of the axes and balls of the maces were a
reddish brown with light bronze highlighting. Also crowns, armor bits or
other knick knacks were also painted reddish brown, but with gold
highlights. Came out looking very nice.
My friend with the goblins painted all his wooden shafts red. Why? because
red is the complement of green, and it looked good in contrast. Why was the
wood red? Who Cares.
I have another friend, a very good painter who philosophy is to paint every
single detail of a model, and to always paint it realistic colours. From 2
inches away his models look perfect, if not a little boring. From 3-4 feet
they look TERRIBLE. In fact I never even pick up any of his models unless
he specifically points out one. I hate when he asks me if I like it cuz I
know he just spent the last 3 hours painting it, so I lie to him. I just
never have the desire to look at his models because they are all dark and
all so many details done with varying colours. Eech.
4) Do what you just did 10 times more
If you cant do it 20 more times, dont even start. Figure out quick ways to
get the right colour on a model. Can a model be drybrushed? then put a
darker shade on it then drybrush to the lighter correct shade (dont forget
to give strong highlights!) then ink any parts that need it, lay down any
flat colours and highlight. I personally do each step on ALL the models in
a unit before I go to the next stage.. (normally I do one model as an
example, then copy that) If you dont feel you can reliably copy a scheme
consistently throughtout the entire army, settle for a less complex scheme.
Often the less complex schemes look better anyway.
Nothing looks worse than having 5 character models blacklined and
highlighted and then the rest of the army just primary coloured. Instead of
showing how well you painted those five, it shows how little work you did on
the other 100.
5) Base and Flock all models. Then Highlight the bases!!!
Dont complain! Just do it!
My friends Goblin army was completely blacklined, boldly highlighted with
vibrant colours, and completely based and flocked with highlighting applied
to the base AND flock. Did I mention this was the best army I had ever
seen?
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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slaughterkin
incrdbil
>The only saving grace is that about 80 percent of the figures are metal
>and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75 percent
>retail for the stuff.
your friend got ripped off. I'd rate the other guy as a bad trader, or
at least a misleadign one, and report him far and wide as one.
>
>
Cap'n Puddinhed
<snipped out lots of extraneous stuff>
> I learned long ago how to make an entire army look good without having to spend
> days on each model individually.
How do you go about doing that? I am one of the slowest painters in the
world because I spend WAY too much time on individual models. My stuff
looks good, but it takes me an eternity to get anything done.
--
Cap'n Puddinhed, second slowest painter in the known universe.
hadri...@my-deja.com
hadri...@my-deja.com
"Richard Lawford" <rlaw...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote:
> No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a 2
or 3 at
> most.
>
>
> Rich
No offence, but where are pics of your figures oh master of the heavy
metal painting? Or are you one of those that speaks big, but can't
paint for shit?
hadri...@my-deja.com
dy...@cord.ubc.xxxNOSPAMxxx.ca wrote:
> Richard Lawford wrote:
> >
> > No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a 2
or 3 at
> > most.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Rich
>
> and low lights applied, detail is added, extra things like the
> lightening on the Night Lord Marine. My only criticism is the lack of
> detail in the bolters (drill out the barrels!) - use a black wash on
the
> metal. A few touch ups are needed on the raptor model wings and sword.
> The other thing is the varnish - certainly use gloss to protect your
> mini's but put a layer of Dull-Cote (from Testors) over the top.
>
> JKD
> _________________________________________________
> Jason Dyer, Ph.D.
> Vancouver, BC, Canada
>
Actully that'sa side effect of the lighing used for the camera. My
freind that took the pics "wanted more light" which in turbn reflected
way too much back.. In real life the figures are a bit darker and no
where near as glossy. I'm in ther process of getting some better
pictures taken.
> Research Scientist, GW-Outrider
> Member RTC, 3rd Edition Fanboy
>
> dy...@cord.ubc.ca
>
> http://cord.ubc.ca/~steeves/jkd/40k/wh40k-main.html
> ________________________________________________
>
> Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabris,
> ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam.
> _________________________________________________
>
> For all you'll ever need to know about paint removal, read the
> remarkable prose of Blank Dave,,,,
>
> http://www.paintingclinic.com/assist/assist.htm
> _________________________________________________
>
--
Blank Dave
> and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75 percent
> retail for the stuff.
You can easily strip plastic minis too. Just go to Dr. Faust's Painting
Clinic (http://www.paintingclinic.com/) and look under Assistant Docs, or
better yet send your friend since it's his problem to be honest. Last time
I looked there was three articles about paint stripping.
> In short people be fucking honest about your painting.
See what others have said about a person's opinion about their painting.
Personally, I think I suck, but I've practically had to wrestle figures back
from others. Some see themselves better than they are, others worse than
they really are.
> For those who want know I have pictures of figures Have paint on my
> sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7 out
> of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
I don't know, as of late I haven't found much of the 'eavy Metal stuff to be
that inspiring or impressive.
--
Blank Dave
Keep the gene pool clean: Kill an idiot!
Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhoea ...
Massive, difficult to re-direct, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source
of mind-boggling amounts of excrement, when you least expect it.
Gene Spafford
hadri...@my-deja.com
"Blank Dave" <blank...@symaptico.ca> wrote:
> > The only saving grace is that about 80 percent of the figures are
metal
> > and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75
percent
> > retail for the stuff.
>
> You can easily strip plastic minis too. Just go to Dr. Faust's
Painting
> Clinic (http://www.paintingclinic.com/) and look under Assistant
Docs, or
> better yet send your friend since it's his problem to be honest.
Last time
> I looked there was three articles about paint stripping.
Yes we're going to be using the CSC on the plastic figures, thank you
for the info in the article. We hope that we can get the stipped down
enough to repaint. But it shouldn't be too hard, there was no sealer
sprayed on the figures, just bare paint.
>
> > In short people be fucking honest about your painting.
>
> See what others have said about a person's opinion about their
painting.
> Personally, I think I suck, but I've practically had to wrestle
figures back
> from others. Some see themselves better than they are, others worse
than
> they really are.
>
> > For those who want know I have pictures of figures Have paint on my
> > sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7
out
> > of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
>
> I don't know, as of late I haven't found much of the 'eavy Metal
stuff to be
> that inspiring or impressive.
>
Old WD, back in the early 2nd ed of 40K days. I agree that some of the
new stuff isn't as good. But back in the days... ok now I sound like
an old fart.
> --
> Blank Dave
>
> Keep the gene pool clean: Kill an idiot!
>
> Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhoea ...
> Massive, difficult to re-direct, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a
source
> of mind-boggling amounts of excrement, when you least expect it.
> Gene Spafford
>
>
--
Geoff Kemp
> WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics
look
> like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
> highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
I`ve used Metallics on my Iron Warriros and have to say I think they look
quite good (probably around a 5 or 6 compared to other peoples painting
Geoff
Richard Lobinske
>> sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7 out
>> of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
I hate these systems that use WD as the 'holy grail' of painting. The GW in
there 'eavy metal photos push a single style of painting to the exclusion of
all others and expects us to follow like good little sheep. I don't think that
amount of contrast should be an indicator of painting quality, but how well the
highlights/shadows are applied is. While on the subject, I find most of the 10
point scales seem to be so subjectively applied that they are almost
uninterpretable.
Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee
Shameless website Plug: Military Life on Saipan, 1944-1945
http://members.aol.com/RLobinske/Saipan.html
This is a cookie-free website
Marnix van den Berg
>
> Cap'n Puddinhed wrote in message ...
> >In article <38a9ea09$1...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com>,
> >slaugh...@hotmail.com says...
> >
> ><snipped out lots of extraneous stuff>
> >
> >> I learned long ago how to make an entire army look good without having to
> spend
> >> days on each model individually.
> >
> >How do you go about doing that? I am one of the slowest painters in the
> >world because I spend WAY too much time on individual models. My stuff
> >looks good, but it takes me an eternity to get anything done.
>
I wish I had stuck to 1 scheme with my Harlequins..but NO..I had to have
them
all individual..Well..at least I'll be off the streets for a few months.
Great pointers.
--
-----------------------------------------------
Marnix van den Berg (mo...@stack.nl)
University of Eindhoven, Holland
-----------------------------------------------
Richard Lawford
I talk big and paint big.
The idea of my reply was to point out that you cannot accurately judge the
quality of your painting.
I have 18 years of painting experience of all types and my opinion was just
that, an opinion.
I dont have a digital camera so I cannot show you mine.
Cheers
Rich
John L. Martin
joshuadred <joshu...@email.msn.com> wrote in message
news:38aa3...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com...
> NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
> DO NOT paint every weapon shaft brown and every axehead silver. Do not
paint every belt tan. Use Vibrant colours
I hate to say it, but this has to be the four worst pieces of painting
advice on the NG.
First, there are some things in life that NEED to be metallic... mainly
those things that are METAL. I hope this comes as no surprise to most of
you.
Second, mixing white with a color as a highlight is a very bad idea. White
has the tendency to make colors look faded and washed out or "frosty" when
they are drybrushed. If you need a highlight color buy a lighter color of
the base color. I always buy colors in "threes": the base color, the darker
wash color, and the lighter highlight color. It also goes without saying
you should never mix black into a color to make it darker.
There are some things in life we expect to see... it's just the natural
order of the universe I guess. Wood and leather is brown, swords and
axeheads are a steely silver. Painting these things any other way may leave
your army with the look of a humorous comicbook like parody of reality.
I prefer a little more realism in my figures I guess,
--
John
E-mail: jlma...@nconnect.net
URL: http://www.nconnect.net/~jlmartin
ICQ: 9738000
"And they had over them a king, an angel of this abyss; his name is
Abaddon."
Rev. 9:11
slaughterkin
John L. Martin <jlma...@nconnect.net> wrote in message
news:88eeu...@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > DO NOT paint every weapon shaft brown and every axehead silver. Do not
> paint every belt tan. Use Vibrant colours
>
> advice on the NG.
>
All Newbies and almost all median painters need to hear all five steps.
-->Expert<-- painters have the skill and experience to deviate from the
first four, but the vast majority of people need to follow these steps.
Some things change per army, for instance Iron Warriors to some degree must
be done metallic. (personally I would brown and grey ink underneath, with
highlights of the silver and bronze.)
(btw no metal surface is ever "all shiny" or all "silver" there are always
areas where it looks grey or some base colour)
Some people are so blind to the fact that a model painted mostly dark green
(say a dragon or tank) with extensive detailing and gloss-coated is going to
look like a big green shiny blob to someone who has never seen it before.
Remember, you have seen your own models close up, so you know how good they
are, but others havent, so all they see is the 4 foot version.
As for historical "realistic" miniatures they are very often poorly and
darkly painted, and I feel that is why historical wargaming has always had
such a difficult time attracting larger groups of players. The rules are
excellent, but the models and the painting stinks.
Its the models that drive the popularity of this game, cuz it sure as hell
aint the rules!!!!
> First, there are some things in life that NEED to be metallic... mainly
> those things that are METAL. I hope this comes as no surprise to most of
> you.
Sorry this isnt true. Be imaginative. An axehead doesnt have to be silver.
A bolter doenst have to be boltgun metal.
you are painting fantastic creatures in fantastic worlds.. you are allowed
to deviate a little from the norm. Jeesh
>
> Second, mixing white with a color as a highlight is a very bad idea.
White
> has the tendency to make colors look faded and washed out or "frosty" when
> they are drybrushed. If you need a highlight color buy a lighter color of
> the base color. I always buy colors in "threes": the base color, the
darker
> wash color, and the lighter highlight color. It also goes without saying
> you should never mix black into a color to make it darker.
I completely disagree with this. To say it is a bad idea is an obvious
overstatement. Give credit to what is true. Often mixing with white is the
only way to create a true lighter version of the color. I paint with GW
paints exclusively (for consistency) and I know this to be true. If you
just so happen to find a perfect highlight, then go ahead and use it!
However, mixing colours allows for people who cant afford to buy 4 bottles
for each colour to still create nice-looking models, so I still feel that
way is best.
>
> There are some things in life we expect to see... it's just the natural
> order of the universe I guess. Wood and leather is brown, swords and
> axeheads are a steely silver. Painting these things any other way may
leave
> your army with the look of a humorous comicbook like parody of reality.
so essentially you have wave after wave of tan brown and silver models.
Boring. for that Ill walk outside. Im playing a fantastic miniature game
with deamons dragons and aliens. You can afford to be a little creative.
>
> I prefer a little more realism in my figures I guess,
>
to each his own, but at the very least recognize that each of the OTHER
points I made were critical to beginners and median painters.
> --
> John
> E-mail: jlma...@nconnect.net
> URL: http://www.nconnect.net/~jlmartin
> ICQ: 9738000
> "And they had over them a king, an angel of this abyss; his name is
> Abaddon."
> Rev. 9:11
>
>
>
slaughterkin
Geoff Kemp <geof...@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:88dtb0$b7c$1...@supernews.com...
>
> > WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics
> look
> > like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
> > highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
>
> quite good (probably around a 5 or 6 compared to other peoples painting
>
> Geoff
so you coated the entire model silver and then applied bronze to the trim?
Was that all? No drybrushing, or other modifications to the metal-painted
surface such as inking? thats what I mean by "painting" a model a metallic
colour. Do you think that would look good?
Personally I wouldnt give that a high rating.
steve
John L. Martin <jlma...@nconnect.net> wrote in message
news:88eeu...@enews3.newsguy.com...
>
> joshuadred <joshu...@email.msn.com> wrote in message
> news:38aa3...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com...
> > DO NOT paint every weapon shaft brown and every axehead silver. Do not
> paint every belt tan. Use Vibrant colours
>
> advice on the NG.
>
> those things that are METAL. I hope this comes as no surprise to most of
> you.
>
White
> has the tendency to make colors look faded and washed out or "frosty" when
> they are drybrushed. If you need a highlight color buy a lighter color of
> the base color. I always buy colors in "threes": the base color, the
darker
> wash color, and the lighter highlight color. It also goes without saying
> you should never mix black into a color to make it darker.
>
> order of the universe I guess. Wood and leather is brown, swords and
> axeheads are a steely silver. Painting these things any other way may
leave
> your army with the look of a humorous comicbook like parody of reality.
>
an effect i like on some big blades in fantasy is pain the weapon totallt
black, then just do the edge in bronze. looks neat
Steve
RT Maitreya
>
> My only criticism is the lack of
> detail in the bolters (drill out the barrels!) -
Yes, please do. It annoys the hell out of me
when I see people get all slaverous
over a halfway decent paint job when there
are easy details in modeling that have been
forgotten at stage one, like cleaning mold
lines and drilling out barrels and such. . .
Pin vise. After Xacto and needle files. Before Dremel.
All three are de-facto requirements for a miniaturist.
RTM
--
-Rogue Trader Maitreya-
Registrant of the Legio Mutanis
Master Statistician and Academic, RGMWML
http://mems.cwru.edu/~dan/personal/wh40k.html
Newsgroup) 40k3+++, MoW++, ClanWar++, PaintFigs++, DupeFigs+, RTC+
Codex:SM) PCwDred++, L&PinTacs++, MLinDev++, HArm++, Smoke++, HQretinu+
Codex:DE) Raiders+++, Wyches++, WarpBsts++, 10DEw2DL++, Pun&Hlm&Drugs+
Std. Missions) MinUnit+++, Transport+++, Troops++, FastAtt+, Elites-, Heros--
**Recidete, plebes! Gero rem Imperialem!**
Big Al
Justin Gaskins <me...@purdue.edu> wrote in article
<38AA07F1...@purdue.edu>...
> Richard Lawford wrote:
>
> > No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a
2 or 3 at
> > most.
>
> Are you sure you looked at the right models. A 2 means it is primed
and has one
> color. I think the system going to about 5 or 6 if you do all the
steps (prime,
> basecoat, second color, ink, drybrush, maybe more). I'd say my
models are about
> as good and I place them about a 6.
No way, yours are better than mine, and everyone knows mine are
amongst the best in the world.
--
Big Al, obviously
The Doctor is in.
Email: chan...@cenobite.com
Reality is a crutch for people who can't
handle drugs.
"For those dates that really should have
ended an hour ago - NAGASH brand condoms.
NAGASH - for when bad ideas turn ugly."
- Tom Beliech 13/02
"And Bristol!"
Zbigniew Szczepanczyk
> WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics
look
> like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
> highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
I disagree. Sure, painting something a straight metalic color, without any
shading, does look terrible but if you put some effort into it the metal
parts can be the best looking. Here's how I did the metal on a trukk mob
recently. I drybrushed gun metal onto black and painted the egdes of the
choppas Humbrol Metal Cote steel. This paint can be polished to give the
choppas a really sharp and scary look. I used a motor tool for this and
since the buffing disk quickly got dirty I ran it accros other metal parts.
Everything still looks unkempt and orky because the basecolor was drybrushed
onto black but has this slight shine making it look like real metal. It
turned out very nice IMHO.
Radek
Shim
expounded:
>"Jason Dyer, Ph.D." wrote:
>>
>> My only criticism is the lack of
>> detail in the bolters (drill out the barrels!) -
>
>Yes, please do. It annoys the hell out of me
>when I see people get all slaverous
>over a halfway decent paint job when there
>are easy details in modeling that have been
>forgotten at stage one, like cleaning mold
>lines and drilling out barrels and such. . .
>
>Pin vise. After Xacto and needle files. Before Dremel.
>All three are de-facto requirements for a miniaturist.
Well, my vice broke (or at least the thin bit did - I've a thicker, but it's
a bit 'brute force & ignorance'), my needle files work fine, and I saw an
advert for a Dremel once.
But what the -fuck- is an "Xacto"?
-Shim.
Steve Painter
news:38ab15c9...@news.freeserve.net...
> >All three are de-facto requirements for a miniaturist.
>
>
> But what the -fuck- is an "Xacto"?
>
> -Shim.
It might actually be spelled Exacto or some variation thereof - it's a North
American word for a modelling knife.
Steve
--
"By Grabthar's hammer... What a savings."
RT Maitreya
> > But what the -fuck- is an "Xacto"?
> It might actually be spelled Exacto or some variation thereof - it's a North
> American word for a modelling knife.
Kinda like Xerox meaning photocopier. "Xacto" is a
trade name of a razor hobby knife and tool company.
Most high-quality hobby knives you buy in the States
are "Xacto" blades.
steve
Shim <sh...@shimgray.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:38ab15c9...@news.freeserve.net...
> On Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:21:04 -0400, RT Maitreya <dj...@po.cwru.edu>
> expounded:
>
> >>
> >> My only criticism is the lack of
> >> detail in the bolters (drill out the barrels!) -
> >
> >Yes, please do. It annoys the hell out of me
> >when I see people get all slaverous
> >over a halfway decent paint job when there
> >are easy details in modeling that have been
> >forgotten at stage one, like cleaning mold
> >lines and drilling out barrels and such. . .
> >
> >All three are de-facto requirements for a miniaturist.
>
it's
> a bit 'brute force & ignorance'), my needle files work fine, and I saw an
> advert for a Dremel once.
>
>
have a second handle you can put a small bit in it to use as a hand drill,
also exacto makes a nice set of plastic bar clamps too.
Steve
slaughterkin
Zbigniew Szczepanczyk <zbig...@gv.edu.pl> wrote in message
news:95073797...@maciek.gv.edu.pl...
> <snip>
> > WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics
> look
> > like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
> > highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
>
> I disagree. Sure, painting something a straight metalic color, without any
> shading, does look terrible but if you put some effort into it the metal
> parts can be the best looking. Here's how I did the metal on a trukk mob
> recently. I drybrushed gun metal onto black and painted the egdes of the
> choppas Humbrol Metal Cote steel. This paint can be polished to give the
> choppas a really sharp and scary look. I used a motor tool for this and
> since the buffing disk quickly got dirty I ran it accros other metal
parts.
> Everything still looks unkempt and orky because the basecolor was
drybrushed
> onto black but has this slight shine making it look like real metal. It
> turned out very nice IMHO.
>
> Radek
Obviously I did not explain myself well enough in that statement.
my intent was:
NEVER ONLY "paint" anything a metallic colour.
so your example is an example of the right way.
John Hwang
> > In short people be fucking honest about your painting.
> >
> > sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7
> > out of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
When someone claims a 7+, there had better be a *lot* of time in the
model, and it's going to have to show. Sorry, but you just aren't
there. Unless you're painting them *many* hours individually, it's not
going to be a 7+.
> No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a 2
> or 3 at most.
This is clearly too low. I'm not happy with the color accuracy and
scheme and I think these look more like kSons than Night Lords. But
the technique isn't bad (which is what a 2-3 implies): model is clean,
paint job is clean, highlights and shading, details correct, base
completed. I'd say 5, with the best figs being a 6. I wouldn't be
ashamed to field these, but due to personal style preferences, I sure
wouldn't call them my own.
FWIW, it's about as well as I paint. My latest Character models are a
bit better than his Characters, while my first Characters are
comparable; my troops are on par with the Raptors, give or take.
And BTW, this isn't a bad thing. Nearly everyone paints in the 4-6
range, simply because they don't have the time to paint everything to a
7+.
The way I see it, assuming technique is good: a 3/10-4/10 takes about
2 hrs, a 5/10-6/10 job takes about 4 hrs, a 7/10-8/10 job takes about 8
hrs to do, while a 9-10/10 takes about 16 hrs to do.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
hadri...@my-deja.com
--
Yes, I know you would rather have a root canal
performed by Rabid Monekys while waiting in line
at the DMV, you've told me that a number of times.
Blank Dave
> metal
> > > and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75
> percent
> > > retail for the stuff.
> >
> > You can easily strip plastic minis too. Just go to Dr. Faust's
> Painting
> > Clinic (http://www.paintingclinic.com/) and look under Assistant
> Docs, or
> > better yet send your friend since it's his problem to be honest.
> Last time
> > I looked there was three articles about paint stripping.
>
> Yes we're going to be using the CSC on the plastic figures, thank you
> for the info in the article. We hope that we can get the stipped down
> enough to repaint. But it shouldn't be too hard, there was no sealer
> sprayed on the figures, just bare paint.
Then you're set. If they had of been sealed, you would have had to use a
much harsher chemicals.
> > I don't know, as of late I haven't found much of the 'eavy Metal
> stuff to be
> > that inspiring or impressive.
> >
>
> Old WD, back in the early 2nd ed of 40K days. I agree that some of the
> new stuff isn't as good. But back in the days... ok now I sound like
> an old fart.
Many of us here are.
James Mackay
wrote:
>I completely disagree with this. To say it is a bad idea is an obvious
>overstatement. Give credit to what is true. Often mixing with white is the
>only way to create a true lighter version of the color. I paint with GW
>paints exclusively (for consistency) and I know this to be true. If you
>just so happen to find a perfect highlight, then go ahead and use it!
>However, mixing colours allows for people who cant afford to buy 4 bottles
>for each colour to still create nice-looking models, so I still feel that
>way is best.
I disagree with your disagree-ing, so there. If you want to paint REALLY
well, learn some color theory. You don't lighten a color by adding white, or
darken it by adding black. If you want a lighter green, for example, you add
yellow. If you want to darken green, you add a blue. Buy, or find on the net a
color wheel. I agree that mixing paint is essential, but learn to do it
correctly. The GW paint chart, which recommends hightlighting Ultramarines Blue
with Lightning Blue gives too stark a highlight, so for a really great paint
job, learn to mix colors. You should be able to paint anything with only about
6-7 basic colors, though it would be a pain.
And before I forget, drybrushing is for picking out TEXTURES, like fur, or
hair, or the like. Drybrushing flat areas, such as, oh, Marine Power Armor
looks like crap. IMHO, of course....
As to metallics, drybrush them over a black undercoat, or do an ink wash
over them, and they look fine. I personally hate the look of purple spearpoints
and the like, unless it's a specific effect for a magic weapon or something.
Even fantasy has to be internally consistent. If something is wooden, paint it
to look like wood.
*PHEW* That turned into something of a rant, didn't it? No offense intended,
of course.
James Mackay
Jsma...@aol.com
ICQ #6662780
Kurt
Ray Cyrus comeback tour, James Mackay said _____________...
> And before I forget, drybrushing is for picking out TEXTURES, like
> fur, or
>hair, or the like. Drybrushing flat areas, such as, oh, Marine Power
>Armor looks like crap. IMHO, of course....
>
You can do it well though. I use a "wet" drybrush, where I lick the end of
the brush a little just before I put any paint on it, then drybrush. It
gives less of a chalky look, and since I'm using grey to highlight black,
means that I don't have to do much to pick out the ridges in the armour.
Wouldn't recommend it for everything though.
--
K *Kill the nospam to reply*
Crocodile hunter???
A great deal of people on this NG are stupid kids who think they have
the world figured out. The rest are stupid adults who think they have
the world figured out . . .
-- RGMW outtake
Richard Lobinske
>or
>hair, or the like. Drybrushing flat areas, such as, oh, Marine Power Armor
>looks like crap. IMHO, of course....
>
However, using drybrushing for a weathering effects can work over large flat
areas, but that is another ball game.
steve
John Hwang <j_h...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:88fvp6$ehp$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
also if you are capable of painting models anywhere from 8-10 i dont think
they will be models used on "many" battlefields, they would probly tend to
sit on shelves a little longer, (just an opinion)
steve
James Mackay <jsma...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000217060044...@ng-fg1.aol.com...
fur, or
> hair, or the like. Drybrushing flat areas, such as, oh, Marine Power Armor
> looks like crap. IMHO, of course....
>
wash
> over them, and they look fine. I personally hate the look of purple
spearpoints
> and the like, unless it's a specific effect for a magic weapon or
something.
> Even fantasy has to be internally consistent. If something is wooden,
paint it
> to look like wood.
>
> *PHEW* That turned into something of a rant, didn't it? No offense
intended,
> of course.
> James Mackay
your completely right all your doing with mixing white and black is that
your getting shades and hues, different tones of colors is what you need to
do the proper highlighting (with different bottles and by adding the next
colors on the color wheel), and to keep consistant you dont have to buy GW
paints unless you just trying to keep consistant with GW photos, try craft
paints, you usually get twice the amount of paint for half the price, and
usually the color range is at least as big or usually larger then GW range,
and the alternate colors are usually closer and the only gw paint stuff i
recomend is washes and glazes, also it dont hurt as much in the pocket when
you need a color for terrain either.
Steve
Richard Lawford
painting awards at local shows and I have golden demon stuff from 1989 (I
think) didn't go to final as I was in Hospital.
No cheap cop out Hadrian.....
Regards
Rich
<hadri...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:88h0jr$4uq$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Big Al
Richard Lawford <rlaw...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote in article
<88hb1v$iq$1...@taliesin2.netcom.net.uk>...
> nope I seriously have not got a decent digital camera. I have
about 30
> painting awards at local shows and I have golden demon stuff from
1989
Then why can't you afford a digital camera?
--
Big Al, inquiring minds want to know
Justin Gaskins
> Justin Gaskins <me...@purdue.edu> wrote in article
> <38AA07F1...@purdue.edu>...
> > Richard Lawford wrote:
> >
> > > No offense intended but an honest opinion of your work would be a
> 2 or 3 at
> > > most.
> >
> > Are you sure you looked at the right models. A 2 means it is primed
> and has one
> > color. I think the system going to about 5 or 6 if you do all the
> steps (prime,
> > basecoat, second color, ink, drybrush, maybe more). I'd say my
> models are about
> > as good and I place them about a 6.
>
> No way, yours are better than mine, and everyone knows mine are
> amongst the best in the world.
Well, I have been getting better. I can actually do eyes now (at least
whites and pupils, I still can't do an iris yet).
Big Al
Justin Gaskins <me...@purdue.edu> wrote in article
Fuck that, it's impossible on anything smaller than an Ogre. I can
do whites and pupils, but trying to do irises on normal 28mm figs is
asking for a big fuck-up.
--
Big Al
steve
Craig <craig...@virgin.net> wrote in message
news:38ACA7...@virgin.net...
> not use workshop paint on there minis, is crap to say the least, and far
> to expensive. try Vallejo model colours far superior paint range, and
> all they colours mix well.
>
> Just to add to earlier posts mixing is the only way to smoothly blend
> colours
>
> Craig
>
yea but not with white and black, example blue, lighter blue with a standard
blue or a darker blue with the standard blue, just not black and white.
secondary colors and tertiary colors you can use the adjacent colors as
mentioned earlier.
Steve
hadri...@my-deja.com
"Richard Lawford" <rlaw...@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote:
> nope I seriously have not got a decent digital camera. I have about
30
> painting awards at local shows and I have golden demon stuff from
> think) didn't go to final as I was in Hospital.
> No cheap cop out Hadrian.....
> Regards
How about a poloraid and a flatbed scanner then?
hadri...@my-deja.com
>
> also if you are capable of painting models anywhere from 8-10 i dont
think
> they will be models used on "many" battlefields, they would probly
tend to
> sit on shelves a little longer, (just an opinion)
True, every model I paint is used on the table top for gaming. If by
some stroke of luck I was able to paint an 8 or 9 it would be locked
away ina glass case never to see the gaming table
hadri...@my-deja.com
> yea but not with white and black, example blue, lighter blue with a
standard
> blue or a darker blue with the standard blue, just not black and
white.
> secondary colors and tertiary colors you can use the adjacent colors
as
> mentioned earlier.
> Steve
Better example, red. Mix it with black and you get brown, not a deep
crimson. Mixed with white you get pink, not a pale redish orange.
steve
<hadri...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:88jsh8$6ao$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
>
>
> > yea but not with white and black, example blue, lighter blue with a
> standard
> > blue or a darker blue with the standard blue, just not black and
> white.
> > secondary colors and tertiary colors you can use the adjacent colors
> as
> > mentioned earlier.
> > Steve
>
> Better example, red. Mix it with black and you get brown, not a deep
> crimson. Mixed with white you get pink, not a pale redish orange.
> >
> >
your 3 primary colors to make a real brown, brown is not the same type of
neutral that black and white are, also i cant rem the exact term for the
differences.
Steve
Big Al
THOR GRIM <WOLV...@webtv.net> wrote in article
<1985-38A...@storefull-153.iap.bryant.webtv.net>...
> i agree on your highlighting but i must say i have a huge skaven
army
> that is mostly black and brown and it does look good.
>
> highlights do make the army look better
Punctuation and use of capitals makes posts look much better.
steve
THOR GRIM <WOLV...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:1985-38A...@storefull-153.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> i agree on your highlighting but i must say i have a huge skaven army
> that is mostly black and brown and it does look good.
>
> highlights do make the army look better
>
in the neutral range, but you SHOULD give dingy tunnel dwellers the bright
yellows and reds that he recomends (can you hear the sarcasm?) like it would
stay clean.
Steve
Richard
>overstatement. Give credit to what is true. Often mixing with white is the
>only way to create a true lighter version of the color. I paint with GW
>paints exclusively (for consistency) and I know this to be true. If you
>just so happen to find a perfect highlight, then go ahead and use it!
>However, mixing colours allows for people who cant afford to buy 4 bottles
>for each colour to still create nice-looking models, so I still feel that
>way is best.
>
Sometimes white is the best colour to mix, sometimes not. If possible I
use different shades of ready made colour (e.g. shading in dark angels
green, base colour in emerald green and highlight goblin green),
otherwise I mix. For some colours (e.g. green and red) it is better to
use differing paints to achieve a lighter colour - yellow for example.
White mixed with either of the above produces something that doesn't
look nice - especially with the red which makes a pink colour.
>>
>> There are some things in life we expect to see... it's just the natural
>> order of the universe I guess. Wood and leather is brown, swords and
>> axeheads are a steely silver. Painting these things any other way may
>leave
>> your army with the look of a humorous comicbook like parody of reality.
>
>so essentially you have wave after wave of tan brown and silver models.
>Boring. for that Ill walk outside. Im playing a fantastic miniature game
>with deamons dragons and aliens. You can afford to be a little creative.
>
I generally paint "accessories" like belts and pouches brown because it
looks good. It is the basic uniform that stands out, not these
accessories. The basic look and main colours of a model should be fairly
bright, but IMO not everything.
see ya,
Richard Lloyd
Richard
>your 3 primary colors to make a real brown, brown is not the same type of
>neutral that black and white are, also i cant rem the exact term for the
>differences.
One thing I learnt at primary school is that brown is what you _always_
end up with if you just throw enough colours together :-) I always got
something with the same colour and consistency as diarrhoea!
see ya,
Richard Lloyd
Richard
call a "magical" style. This have very very dark shading and very very
light highlights and a steady progression between them. I can only
afford to do this on "magical" models because it takes time but it looks
great! Also, I have two lots of empire troops, some in Ostland colours
(black and white) and some in Stirland colours (green and yellow), and
the Stirlanders look far better. However, bright colours are not always
appropriate. I think it would be a mistake to paint models so they
looked like fisher price toys :-) One thing I like to do to make models
seem good or evil is to shade their bases accordingly. I base "good"
models with light green painted sand (shading emerald green, base goblin
green and highlight yellow) whilst I base evil models with darkly
painted sand (shade black, base coat DA green and highlight emerald
green).
Finally, all my best models (which are rarely my most recent) have lots
of highlighting. Slight highlights may be realistic, but they aren't
noticable on a model. You need bold highlights and that are actually
visible in contrast to the recesses.
Now, if someone can just tell me how to highlight yellow and make it
show up.... maybe mix some light brown in with the base yellow so the
pure yellow highlights show up?
In article <38aa3...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com>, joshuadred
<joshu...@email.msn.com> writes
>
>Cap'n Puddinhed wrote in message ...
>>In article <38a9ea09$1...@goliath2.newsfeeds.com>,
>>slaugh...@hotmail.com says...
>>
>><snipped out lots of extraneous stuff>
>>
>>> I learned long ago how to make an entire army look good without having to
>spend
>>> days on each model individually.
>>
>>How do you go about doing that? I am one of the slowest painters in the
>>world because I spend WAY too much time on individual models. My stuff
>>looks good, but it takes me an eternity to get anything done.
>
>Hmmm Im glad you asked that. I think Ill post this as a new thread, cuz so
>many of the new painters never here any of this stuff.
>
>There are several steps. Certain steps need to be modified depending on
>what armies are being painted, or the number of models in the army/unit, but
>all steps offer some valuable advice and direction.
>
>1) Paint a planned colour scheme. Do not deviate from this scheme!
>All armies should consist of 3 colours. Secondary colours such as but not
>limited to white grey black bone any metallic do not count against this, but
>if prominently displayed should count against the three.
>Remember: 2 colours is boring, 4 colours is a mess. Dont believe me? Go
>look at entire armies in pictures and see if Its true.
>Exceptions- this is more true in WHFB than in W40K: certain models demand
>deviation from the set pattern. For instance deamons or Dragons or any
>unusual creature which obviously would not share the same colour patterns as
>the rest of the army. In this case, set up a new set of 3 colours for it
>and do not deviate from that for all similar models in the army. This is
>the case with my Tyranid weaponry. All of my tyranid weaponry has its own
>set of 3 colours or variations that I must follow, apart from the colours
>the creatures have.
>WARNING-- Avoid metallics. For all the beginners out there, metallics look
>like CRAP. Use them sparingly, if at all. Metallics are good for
>highlighting, thats about it. NEVER "paint" anything a metallic colour.
>
>2) Bright models are Beautiful. Dark models are Ugly.
>HIGHLIGHT HIGHLIGHT HIGHLIGHT. Highlighting is the most important thing in
>building a beautiful looking army. Whatever colours you choose to put on
>your armies, highlight them with even lighter versions. I cant stress this
>enough. dont stop at dark blue highlighted with blue, go to light blue and
>then even lighter blue. Do this for every color on every model.. no
>exceptions. Mix white into EVERYTHING. The most stunning army Ive ever
>seen in battle was painted by a friend of mine who now works for GW. It was
>a goblin army. Normally tons of goblins are nothing special to look at, but
>he had boldly highlighted each goblins face, body, weapon and mount. Whats
>more he did it with a variety of bold colours and repeated the highlighting
>consistently throughout the army. I can now say the best painted army I
>have ever seen was a goblin army.
>On the other hand, dark models, no matter HOW WELL PAINTED under normal
>light look drab and plain, if not just ugly. YES this means YOU. So
>highlight! Then highlight AGAIN!!!
>
>3) Abstraction is Beautiful. Realism is Ugly
>Do not paint every detail on the model!!!!!!!!!
>This may seem totally contrary to what one might expect. But it is true.
>Every color variation you put on a model can be seen at a distance. What
>seemed like a good idea in painting a belt sack and dagger a variety of
>colours at 2 inches away, looks like utter CRAP from 4 feet away. All you
>see are blotches of colour because the detail is lost at that distance.
>Certain models in the GW line are overloaded with detail. Stick to the
>three main colours, and slight deviation into the neutral colours stated
>above. (And you should repeat the same neutral colours too)
>Just as important.. Dont fall into the trap of painting everything
>realistically. Realism is ugly. Dont believe me? look around! When was
>the last time you were standing in surroundings or clothes that were so
>beautiful that they should have been in a painting?
>DO NOT paint every weapon shaft brown and every axehead silver. Do not
>paint every belt tan. Use Vibrant colours.. Look at Anime for example. Why
>do so many characters have blue or green hair, instead of brown or black?
>I had a mummy unit that was straight grey and white for the wrappings.. but
>for the axes and maces, I painted the shafts turquoise blue, (with highlight
>of course) and the metal blades of the axes and balls of the maces were a
>reddish brown with light bronze highlighting. Also crowns, armor bits or
>other knick knacks were also painted reddish brown, but with gold
>highlights. Came out looking very nice.
>My friend with the goblins painted all his wooden shafts red. Why? because
>red is the complement of green, and it looked good in contrast. Why was the
>wood red? Who Cares.
>I have another friend, a very good painter who philosophy is to paint every
>single detail of a model, and to always paint it realistic colours. From 2
>inches away his models look perfect, if not a little boring. From 3-4 feet
>they look TERRIBLE. In fact I never even pick up any of his models unless
>he specifically points out one. I hate when he asks me if I like it cuz I
>know he just spent the last 3 hours painting it, so I lie to him. I just
>never have the desire to look at his models because they are all dark and
>all so many details done with varying colours. Eech.
>
>4) Do what you just did 10 times more
>If you cant do it 20 more times, dont even start. Figure out quick ways to
>get the right colour on a model. Can a model be drybrushed? then put a
>darker shade on it then drybrush to the lighter correct shade (dont forget
>to give strong highlights!) then ink any parts that need it, lay down any
>flat colours and highlight. I personally do each step on ALL the models in
>a unit before I go to the next stage.. (normally I do one model as an
>example, then copy that) If you dont feel you can reliably copy a scheme
>consistently throughtout the entire army, settle for a less complex scheme.
>Often the less complex schemes look better anyway.
>Nothing looks worse than having 5 character models blacklined and
>highlighted and then the rest of the army just primary coloured. Instead of
>showing how well you painted those five, it shows how little work you did on
>the other 100.
>
>5) Base and Flock all models. Then Highlight the bases!!!
>Dont complain! Just do it!
>My friends Goblin army was completely blacklined, boldly highlighted with
>vibrant colours, and completely based and flocked with highlighting applied
>to the base AND flock. Did I mention this was the best army I had ever
>seen?
>
>
>
>
>
>-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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see ya,
Richard Lloyd
steve
Richard <Ll...@bury-rd.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cWTypKAA...@bury-rd.demon.co.uk...
> I have to agree. Some of the best models I've ever done are in what I
> call a "magical" style. This have very very dark shading and very very
> light highlights and a steady progression between them. I can only
> afford to do this on "magical" models because it takes time but it looks
> great! Also, I have two lots of empire troops, some in Ostland colours
> (black and white) and some in Stirland colours (green and yellow), and
> the Stirlanders look far better. However, bright colours are not always
> appropriate. I think it would be a mistake to paint models so they
> looked like fisher price toys :-) One thing I like to do to make models
> seem good or evil is to shade their bases accordingly. I base "good"
> models with light green painted sand (shading emerald green, base goblin
> green and highlight yellow) whilst I base evil models with darkly
> painted sand (shade black, base coat DA green and highlight emerald
> green).
>
> Finally, all my best models (which are rarely my most recent) have lots
> of highlighting. Slight highlights may be realistic, but they aren't
> noticable on a model. You need bold highlights and that are actually
> visible in contrast to the recesses.
>
> Now, if someone can just tell me how to highlight yellow and make it
> show up.... maybe mix some light brown in with the base yellow so the
> pure yellow highlights show up?
<snip>
"Apple Barrel" makes a "Antique Gold" which is like a dirty yellow then fade
to highlight with thier "Yellow" then "Canary Yellow" and GW yellow wash
help in between for mixing
if you use any of the "Liquitex" stuff try "Cadmium Yellow Hue" for a deeper
yellow and go to "Yellow Light Hansa" for a real light and bright yellow,
the liquitex is little more expensive (pretty equivilent to GW paint prices
for amount) and thicker than most, but has real good coverage and a good
quality paint, you can get them in either a tube or a flip top pot.
Steve
hadri...@my-deja.com
Richard
paint jobs without a scan of the models. Actually I wouldn't buy well
painted models whatever because I like painting, but if I did that's
what I'd do. I certainly offer scans of my models before trying to flog
them for their paint jobs. OK, some people don't have scanners...
In article <88ca39$s45$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>, hadri...@my-deja.com writes
> So a freind og mine just bought a large 40K chaos army that the seller
>called very well painted and with extensive conversions. Well guess
>what, it looks like totlal shit. The guy said he had several figures
>that were painted at a 10 out of 10, these things were barely base
>coated. Case in point was the 10 out of 10 chaos lord that looked to
>have been undercoated black, then a single layer of metalic blue for
>the armor and a shitty red dry brushing for the cloak. I mean for
>christ sake, put some shading and detail work on it. And the best part
>is, the guy sen the stuff un wrapped. Everything thwas thrown into a
>box and shipped loose, zip for padding.
>
>The only saving grace is that about 80 percent of the figures are metal
>and can be stripped and redone, and my freind paid at abut 75 percent
>retail for the stuff.
>
>In short people be fucking honest about your painting.
>
>For those who want know I have pictures of figures Have paint on my
>sight, link in the sig, and I look at my stuff and maybe it's a 7 out
>of 10 - 10 being 'eavy metal figures in WD.
>
>ok rant mode over, thank you.
>
>--
>When the only tool you have is a hammer,
>everything starts to look like a nail.
>Shadow Hammer - The 40K RPG
>http://www.geocities.com/azazal_666_2000/
>
>
>Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
>Before you buy.
see ya,
Richard Lloyd